Here is a list of all the postings Adam Harris has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Can anyone identify what this is and how it works?|
Ah yes well I see what you mean. Well I think mine must also mount somehow on top of the wheel dressing downwards
Thanks Chris, yes it does look like it shares wheel dressing type functions. Now to find what machine it came from...
Thanks Nigel but I can't see which photo you are referring to....
It has quite substantial felt rings both ends of the hexagonal shaft that moves in/out with a rack & pinion, and I thought these might be to protect from ingress of grinding dust. There is a small amount black powdery residue inside the sleeve (and no swarf) that would support the notion of dressing grinding wheels. However the end of the "cutter" is broken uncleanly and not worn smooth by a grinding wheel. The active part of the apparatus is the long levered rack & pinion that moves the "cutter" right and left (perpendicular to the axis of its shaft when angle set at 0 deg)....
I think this may be some sort of grinding wheel dresser but I do not see how or what it mounts to in order to perform its task. The "cutter" shaft moves finely in and out of its hexagonal sleeve, by turning a mini-handwheel. The hexagonal sleeve moves in and out by means of a rack and pinion , the pinion gear being turned by large black plastic knobs either side of the sleeve. The angle of the sleeve to the whole body can be swivelled to set, in advance of the operation. The angle of the "cutter" head to the sleeve can be set in advance of the operation, manually and locked in place by a caphead screw. The cutter/sleeve can be moved left/right by means of a rack and pinion during the operation, the pinion gear being moved to and fro by a long hand lever. The very odd thing is how and in what position it mounts because it seems that if the operator while operating can view all the dials and move the hand levered pinion gear, then the view of the cutter itself is obscured. I am wondering if it mounts in a such a way that it is suspended and the cutter moves upwards into the grinding wheel, if it is indeed a wheel dresser/shaper. The end of the "cutter" is broken. Bolts and leadscrews are all metric.?
Edited By Adam Harris on 29/07/2020 15:42:36
Edited By Adam Harris on 29/07/2020 15:50:44
|Thread: Number punches|
Oh dear! Well I I have bought them now so I will just have to keep my fingers crossed. They were reassuringly more expensive than most I've seen at £27. I see you bought their cheaper "steel hand stamps" punches, whereas I have bought their "Interchangeable Steel Type Set" which are designed specifically for uniformity of type size and space size and blank size in order to be set up in a block type holder so I am hopeful they may indeed be more uniform. Do you know of better?
Edited By Adam Harris on 21/06/2020 16:33:01
Edited By Adam Harris on 21/06/2020 17:13:40
What is the best material for dividing plates, with a view to resistance to corrosion and nice impression from punch - EN1A, EN3, EN8 or EN24T?
Brian, I've just bought those Pryor 2mm ones and I will let you know how I get on with the hydraulic press. Many thanks, Adam
Edited By Adam Harris on 20/06/2020 22:46:04
Brian thanks and using the hole for a centralizing locator is very clever!
Thanks Tim but I am definitely NOT going down the road of making my own punches! One set of plates needs 2mm tall numbers punched astride a 3mm hole as in the font of the 1st photo, but another set of plates needs 2mm tall numbers as per the font in the second photo which is very different and looks finely engraved rather than
punched - would any punches fine enough exist somewhere?
Edited By Adam Harris on 20/06/2020 18:28:16
Edited By Adam Harris on 20/06/2020 18:29:30
Edited By Adam Harris on 20/06/2020 18:30:26
Edited By Adam Harris on 20/06/2020 18:33:27
2 questions on number punches for dividing plates: 1) Where is the best place to find a good quality selection of both font and sizes? 2) can a better result be achieved lining up carefully under a hydraulic press rather than hammer or is sharp impact critical? I am thinking for a tidy alignment where 2 numbers straddle a hole, better to clamp two punches together with a spacer between, and use a press rather than risk a non-perpendicular hit with a fat hammer, or is that not a good idea?
Edited By Adam Harris on 20/06/2020 17:18:09
2 questions on number punches for dividing plates: 1) Where is the best place to find a good quality selection of both font and sizes? 2) can a better result be achieved lining up carefully under a hydraulic press rather than hammer or is sharp impact critical?
|Thread: Best places to buy metal for machining|
M-Machine works great for me
|Thread: Brexit No Deal - WTO duty on EU machines/tooling?|
In a Brexit No Deal scenario, what would be the WTO duty on EU workshop machinery, new and used?
|Thread: How to cut a tri-lobe bore in a change gear (Schaublin style bore)|
Thanks Clive. Would it be very easy (ie cheap!) for a proper CNC machine shop to simply map out the exact shape with a feeler probe run around an existing bore , memorize it and cut out the bore of any change gear handed to them in exact replication? I don't know if that is how CNC machines can work.
I am wondering how one would go about cutting a tri-lobe bore in change gears (Schaublin type), using a non-CNC mill with DRO. Any theories on this, or even practical experience? I attach a photo of what i am talking about.
Edited By Adam Harris on 15/06/2020 23:37:08
|Thread: Burnerd Multisize collets vs Crawford Multibore collets|
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