Here is a list of all the postings Tim Stevens has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: How Much is this Costing Me?|
Duncan - yes of course you can. You will need a significant space(see below*) to put the devices in, and it is not likely that the output, even if you have shower after every meal, will match the cost of the installation or its servicing. *And of course, the only spare space in the average house to put such a thing is where the shower used to go.
Edited By Tim Stevens on 09/08/2022 17:17:44
Goodness me, Hopper, philosophy on a Tuesday morning.
Yes, you are right, in so far as I cannot prove that you are wrong. But in order to survive, we learn early on to follow certain conventions which work out to be useful, as long as others do the same. We say 'The sun is bright today' on the basis of a convention that what we percieve as (or think we do) a blob in the sky which dazzles us whenever we gaze at it is called The Sun, and so ad infinitum.
If we don't accept these conventions, nothing I write here will mean to you anything remotely like what I intend it to mean, so is there any point in pretending to discuss the matter further?
Yours conventionally - Tim
Neil - I suggest you ask Mr Schroedinger. He might know (but I doubt it).
Blowlamp seeks to know why energy prices have risen.
1. Demand has risen as
2. Supply has reduced because of
Simple economics - increased demand increases prices as users compete for supplies, reduced supply increases prices as users compete for supplies.
Still not sure? Ask yourself - why are diamonds more costly than sand?
Hopper views everything as fairy stories, but in my view, some of those fairy stories are backed by evidence - which can be repeated and tested and makes sense. Of course, relying on this does rely on the existence of, and confidence in, sense. Other theories are available, but many of them don't work.
Edited By Tim Stevens on 09/08/2022 11:10:57
Blowlamp reminds us of 'one of the problems we have'
Can i remind us of another - the tendency, when we don't know what is going on, or why, to invent fairy stories and spread them around as if they were 'gospel'. Well, there's a clue there - this has been going on a long long time.
Please, everyone, if you don't know the facts with a good degree of certainty, guess if you like, but DO IT SILENTLY.
Thanks - Tim
Please don't be confused - the 'resistive load' of a tungten filament bulb is not at all simple. Its resistance is dependent on the voltage applied - being much lower as the voltage drops and the filament cools. This is why headlamps took some time to get up to full brightness - especially if the battery was elderly. The cold resistance being low drew much more current from the system, and only after the wiring had cooled again, and the dynamo was charging did the bulbs perform at anything like 'bright'. In fact, it is difficult to find a simple example of a resistive load in practice - they do exist, but few of the devices in the house or the shed are anything like 'simple'.
As I understand things, the mobile signal is needed to send off the details collected in your smart meter to your power supplier, so they can prepare your bill. Lack of such a facility should not affect the use of such a meter for measuring your useage.
Not being able to get your government recommended smart meter to work for the supplier will be a further pressure on the system to get your signal up to strength.
Another factor - change your lighting to LED throughout. This should save 3/4 or more when filament bulbs are changed, and around 1/2 when fluorescents are.
|Thread: Re-cording a Vienna Regulator|
Thanks, PC6. I still hope to avoid disassembly, but you might be right. The small hole for the cord looks rather small to get a loop of wire and double-cord through. But I live in hope. No church tomorrow, then, play with clock.
Thanks John, I have the cord, its the How that I seek, not the What with.
Grandma's clock has finally gone clonk - one of the driving cords has failed. I need advice from someone more familiar with the details, please.
The clock is, I guess, a mid-range version from about 1900-1910, not a 'proper' regulator - but I has kept good time. I have detached the pendulum and the remaining weight, and removed the movement from the wooden case. The movement is fairly simple, but the scroll-drums are not that easy to get to. It would help to know whether it would help to remove the hands, dial, etc or should this job be possible without extra dismantling?
How is the cord end normally attached to the drum? I can see a hole about 3mm dia, but this is not where the other cord is attached, rather it goes through a much smaller hole hard against the flange. So, I cut the new cord end square, poke through the small hole until I can find the end again, tie a knot in it and pull - is that right?
And finally - what else do I need to know to avoid further problems?
Many thanks - Tim
Edited By Tim Stevens on 06/08/2022 15:38:35
|Thread: Electroforming a dome|
I know it as gilding metal - it might help to find a source. It is a copper alloy which works rather like silver, less inclined to split as brass can. Heat to redness to anneal, and if possible, leave in the work-hardened condition if the part is subject to attack by housewives or small children.
There are Jewellers Supplies firms which are likely to carry stock of sheet.
|Thread: Simple way to bend 10mmŲ x 1mm stainless tube|
A response to Grindstone Cowboy's idea about 'killing two birds with the annealing process'. Does this mean annealing the steel and the lead, I wonder?
Something in my memory reminds me that the annealing temperature for lead is below normal room temperature, so the lead would remain soft after the bending. (So, only one 'bird' to kill). If I have a reference here to remind me I cannot imagine which pile it will be in. Am I making any sense, please?
|Thread: FORUM DOWNTIME AND RESULTING ISSUES REPORTING|
The panel at the bottom of the web-page where these threads are listed still shows MyTimeMedia as the owner and copyright holders. My guess is that it should be updated to Mortons etc.
And if there is a prize for notifying this, please park it round the back by my garage, and please don't drop the fire onto the tarmac - thanks.
Edited By JasonB on 20/07/2022 20:22:04
|Thread: Gearbox splines internal and external|
It may be, of course that the OP (original poster) has found a solution from elsewhere, and lacks the courtesy to tell us all the job is sorted. Or he might have dropped quietly from the perch of life. Or his computer might have given up. Etc, etc. Other reasons are available.
Shouting into the void doesn't seem to help much.
|Thread: 2 inch Traction Engine, which one ?|
A few queries for those in the know:
What is the rule, please, for indicating the scale of a traction engine? Is two inches the track, or the wheelbase, or what? In other words, if I wish to sell such a toy, how do I decide how to describe it so that you will all understand?
Do our colleagues in Europe use the same system? ie: Is a 2" engine the same size exactly as a 50.8mm engine? If not, why not? How about Canada or New Zealand?
And finally, if we all talk in riddles so that only those who have been involved in the hobby for 20 years or more can understand, how can we expect to draw newcomers into the activity?
|Thread: What would you ban and why? (Definitely tearoom!)|
How about banning surveys unless it can be shown that action is likely to follow?
|Thread: Bridge load calculations (for the inept)|
The first things I would ask of your driving neighbour, are: Do you believe that you have any rights to use this bridge? Have you checked your deeds, as they may well make reference to any rights or obligations which exist?
You might also consider reminding your neighbour, if the reply is 'No', that when she uses your bridge she must take it as she finds it, and that you make no representations of how strong or how weak it might be. Say, if you wish, that you would be happy for her to continue use, as long as she responds clearly accepting the terms on which you are prepared to permit her use. You might also point out that work is needed to restore some of it, and invite her to contribute to the expense. And should you need to do work on it, be clear that you reserve the right to withdraw any permissions or apply additional conditions.
In the UK, you might also enquire of the County Council as Highway Authority if they are aware of any evidence that the route in question carries public rights (footpath, bridleway etc). If they say 'Er, yes ...' then come back to me - it gets complicated.
|Thread: Feed screw lube|
In case you go looking for it, the Moly lube suggested by AdrianR is Molybdenum Disufide. It looks like a grey-er version of graphite.
The problem with all dry lubes is that they are dry and non-sticky. So they fall off or wipe off too readily.
|Thread: Update on toolpost bolts|
Indeed, Michael, they did seem to take a long time. My guess is that among the factors involved were:
1. The fact that the Allen idea was patented, and perhaps they wanted too much for licenses.
2. The need for 'concentrated tightening' only became serious as aero engines, torpedos, etc were developed in wartime (ie WW2).
3. The design only works well in high-tensile steels, which were themselves slow in development.
And thank you for filling in a gap in my knowledge. I have wondered, now and then, if the spelling was allen or alan, etc and whether it deserved a capital.
There is, though, one problem with the type of bolts (or screws) you show. Whenever you are turning anything which produces a powdery swarf (wood, brass, etc) the hexagon holes will fill with swarf, and this will stick there because of the oil spray which is there already. So, your Allen key won't fit.
My guess is that the older lathes were fitted with square heads for this reason* (and small because the clearance around the head is reduced). When you get fed up with this effect, you might try cutting small square heads on ordinary hex heads - but find a nice small spanner of the right size first.
* and not just because hex socket heads were not introduced until around the time of WW2.
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