Here is a list of all the postings Len Morris 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What to do when you lose something|
Basic fact is that matter is evil and naturally seeks it's own dimension known as hyper-space.
Lost a small non standard screw on the kitchen floor. Half a day looking for it, another day making a replacement. Found it a week later stuck in the tread of my boot!
|Thread: Harrison M300 Taper Attachment|
Thanks for that Pete, helps a lot. Just the information I was looking for. A length of silver steel will fit the bill perfectly.
Just for interest, scaling up a picture from an auction site gave me 18mm by 311mm.
Good to work from the original dimensions in case I ever find an original Harrison clamp. I doubt it will be from an auction site though. The complete set up, (including the telescoping cross slide screw) was listed for an eye watering £1000!
I think you might be a little confused. When the taper attachment is being used, the bar, bed clamp, and the dove tailed base are locked solid. None of these bits have to move or slide in operation. Up to now I've been using a simple piece of angle iron and 2 G clamps when setting up with excellent machining results! Just thought it would be nice to have a more engineered solution.
Thanks for the directions. Just shows a good picture is worth a thousand words.
My M300 has a taper turning attachment but I'm missing the lock bar and bed clamp to make it work. All easy enough to make but knowledge of the original bar length would be very helpful.
Thanks for those comments. Much to think about. My steady is a travelling one made by Harrison (for my M300). The handbook shows solid pads although mine has roller bearings (19mm diameter and 6mm wide). Both needed replacing as they were jammed solid with swarf. The new ones are sealed on each face.
I can see that rollers will limit the smallest diameter that can be supported so like the idea of making some solid pointed inserts for fine work.
Most steadies seem to have bronze support pads. Others have steel roller bearings. Which are best?
|Thread: Removing soft solder from brass before silver soldering|
Yes apparently you can still buy liquid Mercury. It's illegal in the USA but in the UK it's available from a couple of laboratory supply companies. Not cheap at £25 for 100 grams. My small stock has been built up over the years from scrap thermometers, tilt switches etc. Needs careful thought before it's used but looking back, as kids in the 50's we used to roll it about in our hands in amazement, and that was in school labs! As I said, shifts lead deposits a treat.
Liquid Mercury will shift lead deposits very quickly. In the old days when gun ownership was possible I used it with great effect to remove lead deposits from barrels and it was standard process with shooters. With sensible precautions it was quite safe. Not sure if if would be possible to do in today's PC world.
|Thread: Other uses for horizontal milling cutters?|
Sadly I think Ajax is right. Spare the effort and just weigh the larger ones in at your local metal dealer. Some 10 years ago Lancashire had no end of industrial Ironmonger shops. As they closed, clearance stock was put in the shop windows at silly prices. Brand new 5 inch diameter 1+1/8 bore cutters any width any form for one pound each. Leaving one shop with a slab cutter 4 inches wide and 4 inches diameter a chap entering asked me how much I'd paid. To the response of £4 he said it used to be priced at £395! Turned out he was the shop owner.
As a final thought, you could always get the Mig out and make something 'arty' with them. You'd be amazed what people will pay.
|Thread: Highlighting Index Lines|
Some excellent advice there so thanks to Everybody. I like the idea of clockmaker's dial wax. Found it on E-bay and the shop selling it is within 5 miles of my house!
I also like the idea of using Black-it. Amazingly I have a new kit on hand but never thought about using it for this application!
Being pragmatic I think oily crud works well and is probably what most of us live with on a daily basis but on a new machine restoration it's nice to start with fresh dials.
Lots of things to try
What is the best method of highlighting index marks on lathe dials, steel rules etc?
Have tried paint, felt tip pens and Typex but without much success.
Thanks and regards.
|Thread: Harrison M300 Cross Slide Nut|
Thanks for that, I'm sure you are right. It's the only thing that makes any sense. Not surprised your manual shows no ball and spring as with a wedge of the correct length it can't go anywhere.
With some confidence from your reply set off to make a wedge conscious of the need to keep everything parallel and get the angle right. Lot of work, but then had a 'lightbulb' moment. Simply use a standard 8x40 dowel.
Worked a treat.
Thanks for your help Clive.
Have a problem and really need some help.
When I took my cross slide apart the backlash adjusting arrangement that separates the nut halves was missing. The manual seems to show a ball, spring and grub screw. Simple enough to replace so didn't give the matter much attention until I came to assemble all the clean bits.
My cross slide is threaded M6 for the grub screw all the way through. With the nuts in position (front doweled, chamfered rear nipped on bolts) an M6 bolt just passes straight between the nuts. Clearly, whatever I put down the M6 hole will not engage the rear nut chamfer and push it back.
Trying to speak 'Harrison', the ball is shown as UB-008 which I think is 8mm diameter. The grub screw is shown as FS-0892 which could be 8x92 mm.
The whole thing makes no sense and it's basically stopped the job as I,d rather not fit the slide and have to remove it later on.
Any advice or information much appreciated.
|Thread: Harrison M300 Sight Glass|
I'm giving my M300 a refurbishment. The oil level sight glasses were totally useless. Talked with sales at the 600 group. £9.95 plus vat plus postage by courier. Total cost £41.43 for 3. Tried to clean and repair my own but failed miserably.
After much searching on the net found "Harrison lubrication engineering - the home of the Nipple Shop". They are in Bolton Lancashire. Many of their parts are listed under Harrison numbers although I don't know if there is any association with the lathe manufacturer.
Sight level glass £2.19 plus vat plus postage. £12.08 for 3 and they arrived the next day.
Perfect fit, excellent value and really put a sparkle on the refurbishment.
|Thread: Harrison 300 Swarf Shield|
Just an update, the repaired sight glass did not work. The tin housing distorted badly when being pressed in. Either I weakened it too much by machining off the back or over expanded it pressing in the lens.
Found an excellent solution but as it's a bit off topic her have made separate post under 'Harrison M300 site glass'.
Thanks to all.
|Thread: Rotary Table 3 or 4 slot?|
4 slots. Much more versatile.
|Thread: Harrison M300 Transfer Gear box.|
I'm about to reinstall the gear box that bolts below the head stock and drives the lead screw etc. Th 'U' shaped gasket is obvious but what happens along the top edge of the casing? Nothing is shown in the manual and the head stock casting has a 2 inch wide relief on the left of the top edge. It looks like a recipe for oil to escape and muck to enter. Have I missed something or am I being overly concerned?
Regards to all'
|Thread: Harrison 300 Swarf Shield|
Removed the sight glass with a slide hammer. The lens was destroyed but pic1 shows the remains. Tin housing and two O rings.
Made new lens from 3mm acrylic as a press fit onto the lower sealing washer.
Unfortunately got it wrong and distorted the back of the tin housing with the two holes. It pressed against the lens and gave a horrible indication when tested. Turned the back of to give a clear disk.
It should work. I think the twin hole back plate is just to stabilize the level reading when the machine is running.
The lens was sealed with bearing fit. Spent more time on the web trying to find a replacement (they were all the wrong size) than it took to fix mine.
|Thread: Posting Pictures|
Thanks for that very helpful advice.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.