Here is a list of all the postings norm norton has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Not enoughh CO2 ?|
Many years ago, when we had cardice (solid CO2) deliveries, the CO2 had come from distiller's group. There must be masses of it produced by brewing but I guess the fertiliser by-product has been cheaper.
|Thread: Harrison 11 gearbox|
Do you have a Harrison 140? [140mm - 5.51"] The 11" was renamed when the metric gearbox was fitted, along with metric dials and a 6mm pitch leadscrew. A metric gearbox will have three thumb levers rather than the two of the earlier imperial lathes.
Edited By norm norton on 08/09/2021 15:53:42
Yes there is, try https://groups.io/g/HarrisonLathe. You will need a set of change gears.
Also, Google is a wonderful finder of stuff. Type this "harrison metric gearbox imperial thread" into your browser and all the previous discussions on this forum, and others, will come up.
|Thread: Myford super 7 with gearbox - leadscrew stopped turning|
Until Nick comes back and describes what moves and what does not we are all speculating.
But, I knew the Myford gearbox would give lots of 'false neutrals' (motorcycle term) until you settle the gear selector well into its pin. My shock a few months ago was that I got a 'lockup' when I would guess that gear teeth were pin-on-pin and not seated, and when I engaged the clutch it promptly stripped a few teeth from a fibre wheel.
I now always rotate the leadscrew hand wheel to check that gears have properly engaged. Wonderful thing experience from a lesson learnt.
|Thread: 5" 57XX PANSY BOILER MANUFACTURER?|
A guess on my part, but it might be a Winson Kit build perhaps with the date of 1989 and Boiler & Engine number 266.
I think they made a lot of 57XXs, but dates I don't know; another owner of one might be able to confirm what is stamped on their's ?
|Thread: Galatea help|
Every success with your build, and you will have fun learning stuff along the way.
Some drawing sets are better than others, but always treat them as an arrangement of dimensions (that you need to double check). With all builds you need to come to your own views on the sequence of steps, how things are best fitted, materials, appropriate fixings, etc, etc.
There is a lot more understanding we all need that will never be in the drawings, nor in any write-up that the designer might have published, although such descriptions are very helpful. For example, quartering wheels and getting the valves to work. You might find this by reading as much as you can, perhaps working back through Model Engineer articles (libraries at the local ME club), looking through web site builds and write-ups by others, and talking to experienced engineers when you can. There are also model build video guides being published on YouTube.
This forum is great for its range of engineering discussion but, as Dave says above, try joining the (smaller) MECH forum if you want to ask a specific 5" build question.
|Thread: A Welding Problem - Steel Type?|
Thank you Nigel, you have done something that only the very best posters of questions do - summarise what you have learnt from the various replies and what you might do next. We all learn from that and appreciate the discussion!
|Thread: Who uses airbrushes?|
HVLP - agree fully.
I think a lot of the HVLP description is a marketing gimmick. Those guns I described still need 30-40psi and probably behave just like historical spray guns.
I understand what you are asking. My answer is that you need to select the spray gun tool depending on the nozzle size needed. Air brushes might use nozzles in the range 0.5 -1.0mm, small touch-up guns 0.6 - 1.0mm and bigger paint guns 1.2 - 1.6mm.
For a 5" boiler I would be looking at 0.8 - 1.0mm. For the frames or wheels 0.6mm will be ok.
A mini HVLP gun seems to shift more paint than the airbrush with for example a 0.6 nozzle. So the better air brushes, like a Paasche VL with #1 0.5mm to #5 1.0mm nozzles can almost do a boiler. But better would be a cheap HVLP Detail Spray Gun 0.8mm or something like a Finex mini-HVLP gravity gun with changeable 0.6 and 1.0 nozzles. With the bigger nozzle sizes you need 4cfm (100 litres/min) at least and a 50litre tank so your compressor needs uprating.
It is worth buying a decent airbrush with different nozzles, but a basic mini HVLP gun with a couple of nozzles. But your bigger cost will be a compressor, and some filtering in the air supply.
Edited By norm norton on 23/05/2021 15:18:58
|Thread: A Welding Problem - Steel Type?|
Note, Nigel refers to plate material. Lead is added to low carbon (EN1) round bar steel to improve machinability.
Nigel, keep to MIG and CO2. Check you can hear the gas hissing when you pull the trigger, with the power still off . Just make lines of weld on top of some 1/8 or 1/4 thick plate and adjust the power to suit the thickness and the wire feed to get a steady 'singing' and no stop start or banging. It is all sensitive to steady wire feed. The feed rollers must grip just so, and the feed tube be clean and nice inside. Well used MIG welders benefit from new rollers and feed tube.
I haven't yet found steel that cannot be MIG welded, but yes leaded bar is not perfect and higher carbon steels might leave cracked welds. Yes, essential to remove any zinc treatment from steel. Easily done by putting it in dilute hydrochloric acid (or another acid) until bubbling stops.
Edited By norm norton on 23/05/2021 14:54:18
|Thread: Harrison L5A tool post mod|
Thanks, that is interesting, and confirms my imprecise and random findings.
While the four-way works nicely on the bigger Harrison, there are several reasons (for me) why the QC seems to suit a small Myford.
Enough toolholders? I have a dozen and I am continually swapping tools in and out of them!
Thank you ! must tell my wife somebody finds me refreshing
Was GHT describing a four-tenths deviation for a QCTP or an indexed head?
I have one of the small QCTPs on my Myford S7. It is possible to get slightly better than one thou variation IN DIAMETER ON THE JOB changing tools, but only if the head and holder are scrupulously cleaned (especially if turning brass) and you adopt a repeatable style of dropping the holder in and tightening it. Typical tool swaps are a thou, i.e. half a thou in tool absolute position.
It is going to be expensive getting a large number of QC tool holders.
I have some twenty tools lined up on a shelf above my Harrison 140, each sitting on their own packing piece, specifically milled for height for that tool (sorry, I realise you don't have a mill). OK, took me a day to do them all but now that's it, and very low cost. That four sided head is a delight to use and quicker to swap between four tools than QC holders. The indexing balls under my tool post work very well and if I rotate from one tool back to my DRO set facing cutter it is typically within a thou of the correct diameter - about the same as QC tool swaps.
Bemused is a sentiment I would agree with.
I wonder what Mr Bassett-Lowke would make of it?
|Thread: Distorted ship's hull steel panels|
Thank you Bill for kindly addressing the points in my ramble.
I will stop my worrying and accept that it is welding distortion, inevitable in large panels tacked to widely spaced frames
And the Royal Navy does not waste taxpayers' money making the hull above the waterline look like a thing of beauty
Thank you all for joining the chat. But I still cannot see why, when they build a big Naval ship, the plates (panels?) all appear indented at launch.
Bill kindly explains the welding might pull in the centres, but that seems odd - couldn't they design the ribs to match the planned curvature in all places?
A big ship like a liner with heavy plates has them all rolled to match the curvature; I don't think the same plate distortion is seen. So, are we thinking that the Naval ships are made with much thinner plates, to make a lighter and faster ship, and try as they might they cannot make them neatly curved all over, and have to resort to seven tonnes of epoxy filler?
So why can't thin steel panels be rolled to a correct curve, and welded to the curved bulkheads and ribs, so that it all looks neat? There is something we are not understanding, and that was the whole point of my first question.
My guess is that localised heating and cooling of the skin from the sun leads to expansion that either has to pop in or out, and standard practice says to make them all pop in. I wonder if this is why the same panel distortion is seen in welded locomotive tenders?
But, if the panels are flexing in and out with sun heating, how does the seven tonnes of epoxy stay in shape?
Edited By norm norton on 13/04/2021 10:11:12
|Thread: (bicycle) thread identification?|
It is all very well being pedantic and saying that a 55 deg nut cannot/must not be mated to a 60deg bolt, but you are talking about a couple of thou fitting difference and load being on a line contact rather than a full face. Does any one have data on how much less load a thread angle miss match can carry?
But I agree, in principle, cut the right thread angle and do things properly. Does it matter for strength? we need to see some data.
|Thread: Distorted ship's hull steel panels|
I always assumed that when you saw a Naval ship with panels on the hull side dented in, it was the arduous sea journeys that had indented the steel plates between their bulkheads and ribs.
But today I saw a film of the launching of HMS Sheffield (later lost in the Falklands) and it had the same indented hull side panels, perhaps 10 feet square, all down the length of the ship.
This got me thinking. If they were welded at the joins would not the cooling cause the panels to be pulled tight? Why are they all indented at the centres by an amount that is very visible in reflected light?
A similar effect can be seen on locomotive tenders that have been welded. Perhaps an effect that should be replicated on scale models?
Any experienced large scale welders able to comment?
|Thread: WELDING A BEARING|
So a TIG torch run around the bearing outer, with no applied rod, will be as effective as using a stick or MIG?
|Thread: Parting 1 1/2 phosphor Bronze|
Well done Martin, glad you have confirmed it, REALLY sharp HSS tool.
Mike, slitting saw, same answer, the teeth will have to be freshly honed, or use a new saw blade.
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