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Member postings for John Baron

Here is a list of all the postings John Baron has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Home Made Rear Toolpost Issue
02/03/2021 14:32:07
Posted by Nigel Bennett on 02/03/2021 11:20:23:

There was a bit of correspondence in ME back in the 1980s if I recall, where some chap made a rear toolpost out of a length of 2" square RHS with a central stud. Somebody made one like it and after a bit of a dig-in was looking somewhat askance at the smashed pieces of Tee slot that used to be part of his cross-slide.

I think the same worry could be expressed about John Baron's toolpost; I don't think it would need much of a dig-in to rip it out of the tee-slot.


The one I made has three fastenings; two like David George's at the front through a fixed sub-base into a single long Tee nut, and one going through the rotational point of the "Wole Thing" (as Fred Dibnah used to say) into a substantial tee nut on another tee slot. Definitely need the long cross-slide to fit mine.

Hi Nigel,

Yes I agree that there is that risk ! However I've very rarely parted off anything more than an inch in diameter, much preferring to use the bandsaw. However I did start to make a base piece to go around the column and fasten to the "T" slot in front of it. Another one of those round toit's

02/03/2021 14:25:05
Posted by ega on 02/03/2021 11:31:10:

John Baron:

Thanks for your reply and photo.

I may be having a senior moment but this was the feature I was interested in:

836454.jpg

I'm guessing that it may be the adjuster screw head?

I happily used a simpler version of your front tool post for many years, IIRC a Len Mason design from ME.

Yes you are right it is the height adjustment screw. I mistakenly thought that you were referring to the split clamp.

I think it must be me having the senior moment, now that I've re re read your original question. Sorry !!!

 

Edited By John Baron on 02/03/2021 14:40:31

02/03/2021 10:16:53

Hi Ega,

It is the back end of the split collet securing the tool block to the post !

25-09-2018-007.jpg

This is a picture of my front tool block. You can see the head of the M6 cap screw that is used to tighten the split collet. The rear tool block is identical. In fact both were made to be interchangeable so that either could be used on the front or back.

In fact the only thing that is missing on the rear one is a block for the adjuster screw to bear on. I have a loose block that I use. I keep promising myself that I will make a bracket to do the same job. I need a round toit !

02/03/2021 08:49:08

Hi Guys,

This is a picture of my rear parting tool post on my Myford. It is set dead square to the chuck jaws and dead on centre height. It uses a single through bolt into a 4 mm thick flat plate located in the "T" slot. Notice that it is also set a little inboard to avoid the twisting effect that you get when the cutting tool is over the edge of the slide.

31-07-2019x002.jpg

That blade is 2 mm thick by 12 mm wide and 200 mm long ! £2 from Bangood.

Thread: Help needed to lift bandsaw curse.
02/03/2021 08:07:09
Posted by Bill Phinn on 01/03/2021 21:51:21:
Posted by John Baron on 01/03/2021 13:19:21:
 

Those marks suggest a bad tooth on the blade, actually two or three bad teeth that distance apart !

 

 

John, could you explain this further? The brass was cut lying flat, so I'm not sure how a few bad teeth could have caused those marks even if there were any, which by all appearances there aren't.

Jason got it right ! 

The fact that there are two marks in the same spot tells me that the bad tooth/teeth are on the blade in one place, coming round at the same spot each blade revolution.

Also give me a clue as to how far apart the bad teeth are.

 

Edited By John Baron on 02/03/2021 08:11:13

01/03/2021 13:19:21
Posted by Bill Phinn on 28/02/2021 22:02:00:

There are still two minor issues. The picture of the brass bar [in the first image and 3/8" x 2", I think] shows the first: the two short patches near each end of the bar. I can't detect any difference in surface height with my finger at these points, so I'm not too concerned by it, but does anyone have a suggestion as to why these markings have occurred? There is nothing on the surface of the bar either side to explain their existence, and further cuts produced exactly the same result. The bar was cut lying flat.

bandsaw cut shadow.jpg

Those marks suggest a bad tooth on the blade, actually two or three bad teeth that distance apart !

Thread: Taper angle/length for spindle handle lock?
28/02/2021 19:55:47

Hi Guys,

I made mine to the same G H Thomas design. But I used a steel tube and made the tapers on the lathe.

21022015-02.jpg

The brass collar is to stop it being pushed too far into the spindle, otherwise the wheel handle catches the gear cover.

21022015-05.jpg

A close up of the tapered nut. It is only threaded about halfway through. Since I only needed about 4 or 5 turns, I didn't see the point in going through the full length of the tapered nut.

Thread: Help needed to lift bandsaw curse.
28/02/2021 19:41:47

I would check very carefully for missing teeth. The original Aldi bandsaw blade lost several teeth within a few cuts, the new blade is far better.

Thread: Wicking felt for lathe headstock bearings
28/02/2021 19:28:29

Just to add, I had forgotten that I used 6 mm thick felt carpet to line the inside walls of my camper when I built it. You can buy it by the yard or if you have a camper place anywhere near they might give you some off cuts.

Where about's are you located, I'm near York, I've a few spare pieces left.

28/02/2021 12:09:21

Almost any felt material will wick oil as long as it is capable of absorbing the oil. Some felts are water/liquid repellent and wont work. I've use cotton in the past to wick oil up and over and down a central tube. My Myford S7 uses a wick to lubricate the main spindle bearing.

Thread: Where to find a *good* optically flat mirror?
24/02/2021 09:02:54
Posted by Pete Rimmer on 23/02/2021 17:13:13:

I put an advert on homeworkshop for an optically flat mirror but as yet have had no responses to it. These things seem to be thin on the ground and very expensive, if you buy the mounted ones.

I'm looking for 'thinking out of the box' suggestions as to where I can find a decent fractional-wave first surface mirror to use as a reflector for an autocollimator I am picking up shortly. I can make the sled to carry it and I'm confident that I can make a mount but I need to first buy the mirror itself.

I know that there are a few members interested in telescopy and other optical interests so I'm hoping that someone can suggest a source for a reasonably priced mirror. It must be flat, and first-surface, and fractional waveength, so half-wave or better.

I'm not a tightwad but I don't want to pay newor crazy ebay prices. Hopefully there will be someone here can point me in the direction of a decent mirror or a device or instrument where they re used so I can look for a surplus one.

Pete,.

Hi Pete,

There are usually a number of different size first surface mirrors in a laser printer head unit !

Thread: ML7 Hand Crank / Wheel?
24/02/2021 08:50:36

I made a similar thing using an old washing machine tub pulley ! I did put a handle on it to aid quickly unscrewing a tap.

21022015-01.jpg

More pictures in my album.

Thread: Facebook's Portal & Privacy
16/02/2021 15:38:39

Hi Guys,

It seems that most internet providers,

A: Want you to leave your router permanently switched on.

B: They use your router to expand their WiFi coverage at your expense.

C: Have back doors into your router.

D: Don't like you using or trying to use a third party router.

I agree with securing your computers and other internet enabled devices. I have a Smart TV and it continually wants to have an internet connection, which is hard to prevent since there are so many WiFi connections around. Even switching WiFi off it switches it back on again, usually silently. I think some of these TV's even have cameras.

Thread: Electric motor for L C Mason's Small Lathe
13/02/2021 14:27:37

Hi Colin,

So do I ! I'm in North Yorkshire. I do have access to s couple of scrapyards around here and I did used to have access to one in Birmingham which unfortunately seems to have closed down and the land is currently being sold.

But I do agree that it is becoming harder to find places that will let you wander around them. One that I go to will put stuff on one side for me if I let him know what I'm after. There was an old lathe in there a few days ago. I expect that it went into the cast iron scrap pile.

Thread: How does this temp trip work?
13/02/2021 14:04:49

Hi Guys,

I mentioned earlier that I had been looking at a thermal switch that used a ceramic element to open and close a switch, I've taken some pictures so that you can see the parts and the arrangement of the device.

13-02-2021-002.jpg

This picture is an over all view inside the plastic case. The thermal mechanism is at the top and there is an auxiliary switch at the bottom of the picture. The auxiliary switch is not thermally activated it is a straight on/off one.

13-02-2021-003.jpg

I've outlined the ceramic element in green and the switch contacts in red. There is a spring on the right bearing on the ceramic strip, and an adjusting screw on the left which can be adjusted with an Allen key through the top. I did notice that the adjusting screw is connected to the live mains input ! So this is just for factory adjustment. The cam on the switch shaft brings the thermal device into play.

13-02-2021-004.jpg

I tried to photograph the ceramic strip. I broke out the bit of plastic so that I could take a picture of it. You can see the voltage rating and the printed resistive element which measures about 15K ohms. You can feel the heat radiating off it after about 15 or 20 seconds. The contacts short the ceramic element out when the switch operates.

Quite ingenious !

Thread: Clarkson, Osborn and ER
12/02/2021 14:02:24

Milling cutters tend to be standard sizes whether screwed or plain shank ! So I don't see any need to change to ER collets just to use them, particularly if you have the full set of collets for the Clarkson.

Thread: Boring head or fly cutter
12/02/2021 13:56:55

Hi Eric, Guys,

You can make a fly cutter quite easily and more rigid than most you could buy.

new_flycutter-1.jpg

This one is a simple disc 20 mm thick on a 20 mm shaft, using a piece of 6 X 6 mm square HSS as the cutter. This on will cover about 65 mm. The tool bit is held in an 8 mm diameter hole using an M6 grub screw.

Thread: How does this temp trip work?
12/02/2021 13:46:11

Hi Steve, Guys,

Yes I used to do that as well ! Plus giving the oily felt a good wash and soaking in degreaser and then a soak in hot oil to re-lubricate the felt. Record player motors used to suffer in the same way.

Thread: Running a Myford in Reverse?
12/02/2021 13:39:48

Hi Guys,

FWIW I do tend to use the back gear to lock the chuck when unscrewing it, although the S7 does have a locking pin to stop the spindle being turned when removing the chuck. I've never found the need to use anything more than the chuck key in order to loosen the chuck.

I do have a 125 mm three jaw on a backplate that is a lot harder to loosen than the original Myford 100 mm chuck. Plus it overhangs the bed much further than the slim body Myford one.

12/02/2021 06:54:06

Hi Chris, Guys,

[quote]A screw-on chuck, as on the Myford or Boxford type lathes, will always unscrew unless specially secured. I have had a chuck fly off when I accidentally knocked the Dewhurst switch lever over and threw the Myford into reverse.[/quote]

This can only happen on a machine with a three phase motor ! Switching to reverse whilst running forward will not stop the motor, it will just keep running. The single phase motor speed has to slow down enough for the centrifugal switch to drop out reconnecting the start winding.

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