Here is a list of all the postings John Baron has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Home Made Rear Toolpost Issue|
Yes I agree that there is that risk ! However I've very rarely parted off anything more than an inch in diameter, much preferring to use the bandsaw. However I did start to make a base piece to go around the column and fasten to the "T" slot in front of it. Another one of those round toit's
Yes you are right it is the height adjustment screw. I mistakenly thought that you were referring to the split clamp.
I think it must be me having the senior moment, now that I've re re read your original question. Sorry !!!
Edited By John Baron on 02/03/2021 14:40:31
It is the back end of the split collet securing the tool block to the post !
This is a picture of my front tool block. You can see the head of the M6 cap screw that is used to tighten the split collet. The rear tool block is identical. In fact both were made to be interchangeable so that either could be used on the front or back.
In fact the only thing that is missing on the rear one is a block for the adjuster screw to bear on. I have a loose block that I use. I keep promising myself that I will make a bracket to do the same job. I need a round toit !
This is a picture of my rear parting tool post on my Myford. It is set dead square to the chuck jaws and dead on centre height. It uses a single through bolt into a 4 mm thick flat plate located in the "T" slot. Notice that it is also set a little inboard to avoid the twisting effect that you get when the cutting tool is over the edge of the slide.
That blade is 2 mm thick by 12 mm wide and 200 mm long ! £2 from Bangood.
|Thread: Help needed to lift bandsaw curse.|
Jason got it right !
The fact that there are two marks in the same spot tells me that the bad tooth/teeth are on the blade in one place, coming round at the same spot each blade revolution.
Also give me a clue as to how far apart the bad teeth are.
Edited By John Baron on 02/03/2021 08:11:13
Those marks suggest a bad tooth on the blade, actually two or three bad teeth that distance apart !
|Thread: Taper angle/length for spindle handle lock?|
I made mine to the same G H Thomas design. But I used a steel tube and made the tapers on the lathe.
The brass collar is to stop it being pushed too far into the spindle, otherwise the wheel handle catches the gear cover.
A close up of the tapered nut. It is only threaded about halfway through. Since I only needed about 4 or 5 turns, I didn't see the point in going through the full length of the tapered nut.
|Thread: Help needed to lift bandsaw curse.|
I would check very carefully for missing teeth. The original Aldi bandsaw blade lost several teeth within a few cuts, the new blade is far better.
|Thread: Wicking felt for lathe headstock bearings|
Just to add, I had forgotten that I used 6 mm thick felt carpet to line the inside walls of my camper when I built it. You can buy it by the yard or if you have a camper place anywhere near they might give you some off cuts.
Where about's are you located, I'm near York, I've a few spare pieces left.
Almost any felt material will wick oil as long as it is capable of absorbing the oil. Some felts are water/liquid repellent and wont work. I've use cotton in the past to wick oil up and over and down a central tube. My Myford S7 uses a wick to lubricate the main spindle bearing.
|Thread: Where to find a *good* optically flat mirror?|
There are usually a number of different size first surface mirrors in a laser printer head unit !
|Thread: ML7 Hand Crank / Wheel?|
I made a similar thing using an old washing machine tub pulley ! I did put a handle on it to aid quickly unscrewing a tap.
More pictures in my album.
|Thread: Facebook's Portal & Privacy|
It seems that most internet providers,
A: Want you to leave your router permanently switched on.
B: They use your router to expand their WiFi coverage at your expense.
C: Have back doors into your router.
D: Don't like you using or trying to use a third party router.
I agree with securing your computers and other internet enabled devices. I have a Smart TV and it continually wants to have an internet connection, which is hard to prevent since there are so many WiFi connections around. Even switching WiFi off it switches it back on again, usually silently. I think some of these TV's even have cameras.
|Thread: Electric motor for L C Mason's Small Lathe|
So do I ! I'm in North Yorkshire. I do have access to s couple of scrapyards around here and I did used to have access to one in Birmingham which unfortunately seems to have closed down and the land is currently being sold.
But I do agree that it is becoming harder to find places that will let you wander around them. One that I go to will put stuff on one side for me if I let him know what I'm after. There was an old lathe in there a few days ago. I expect that it went into the cast iron scrap pile.
|Thread: How does this temp trip work?|
I mentioned earlier that I had been looking at a thermal switch that used a ceramic element to open and close a switch, I've taken some pictures so that you can see the parts and the arrangement of the device.
This picture is an over all view inside the plastic case. The thermal mechanism is at the top and there is an auxiliary switch at the bottom of the picture. The auxiliary switch is not thermally activated it is a straight on/off one.
I've outlined the ceramic element in green and the switch contacts in red. There is a spring on the right bearing on the ceramic strip, and an adjusting screw on the left which can be adjusted with an Allen key through the top. I did notice that the adjusting screw is connected to the live mains input ! So this is just for factory adjustment. The cam on the switch shaft brings the thermal device into play.
I tried to photograph the ceramic strip. I broke out the bit of plastic so that I could take a picture of it. You can see the voltage rating and the printed resistive element which measures about 15K ohms. You can feel the heat radiating off it after about 15 or 20 seconds. The contacts short the ceramic element out when the switch operates.
Quite ingenious !
|Thread: Clarkson, Osborn and ER|
Milling cutters tend to be standard sizes whether screwed or plain shank ! So I don't see any need to change to ER collets just to use them, particularly if you have the full set of collets for the Clarkson.
|Thread: Boring head or fly cutter|
Hi Eric, Guys,
You can make a fly cutter quite easily and more rigid than most you could buy.
This one is a simple disc 20 mm thick on a 20 mm shaft, using a piece of 6 X 6 mm square HSS as the cutter. This on will cover about 65 mm. The tool bit is held in an 8 mm diameter hole using an M6 grub screw.
|Thread: How does this temp trip work?|
Hi Steve, Guys,
Yes I used to do that as well ! Plus giving the oily felt a good wash and soaking in degreaser and then a soak in hot oil to re-lubricate the felt. Record player motors used to suffer in the same way.
|Thread: Running a Myford in Reverse?|
FWIW I do tend to use the back gear to lock the chuck when unscrewing it, although the S7 does have a locking pin to stop the spindle being turned when removing the chuck. I've never found the need to use anything more than the chuck key in order to loosen the chuck.
I do have a 125 mm three jaw on a backplate that is a lot harder to loosen than the original Myford 100 mm chuck. Plus it overhangs the bed much further than the slim body Myford one.
Hi Chris, Guys,
[quote]A screw-on chuck, as on the Myford or Boxford type lathes, will always unscrew unless specially secured. I have had a chuck fly off when I accidentally knocked the Dewhurst switch lever over and threw the Myford into reverse.[/quote]
This can only happen on a machine with a three phase motor ! Switching to reverse whilst running forward will not stop the motor, it will just keep running. The single phase motor speed has to slow down enough for the centrifugal switch to drop out reconnecting the start winding.
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