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Member postings for John Baron

Here is a list of all the postings John Baron has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Quick release collet chuck clevis
05/05/2021 07:49:54
Posted by David George 1 on 05/05/2021 07:22:51:

Hi Tim I havn't seen the collet chuck for your lathe before but I would have thought you would be able to turn something that fitts. It won't need to be a very close fit and should be made from mild steel or silver steel. Have a go you will learn by your mistakes and a if it dosn't fit change design and make again.

David

+1

Thread: Harrison L5A tool post mod
05/05/2021 07:46:05

Hi Francis, Guys,

I think that the cone is used to clamp the "T" slot, so removing it will mean you need something to replace it ! A flat steel plate would work, and give you a surface to mount another type of tool block. Personally I made my own new toolpost and tool holder to replace the QCTP and four way tool block. A relatively simple job, but you would need a mill to cut the tool holder slot. Even that could be done on the lathe but I wouldn't recommend milling using the lathe.

This is a picture of mine !

25-09-2018-006.jpg

It is called a "Norman Patent" tool post. I also made one for the rear of the cross slide, mainly for a parting blade but the tool holders are interchangeable so I can use either at the front or rear. No shims needed to set tool height either. The silver cap head screw sets the height of tool.

26-02-2020-01.jpg

I made this height gauge to use to set the tool on centre. The underside of the cap is used for the front and the top of the bar used to set the parting blade height.

Moe pictures in my albums.

HTH.

Thread: "TINKER" tool & cutter grinder
10/04/2021 08:43:29

Hi Guys,

The "Tinker" TCG is best considered an idea that needs your own input rather than a set of poorly drawn details ! GL is a writer of books containing lots of ideas culled from around the world very few if any of which are unique. I don't remember the details of which magazine the "Tinker" was published in other than the ones I mentioned earlier !

If GL was as awkward as you say, I would give it no further consideration !

Thread: Help needed with identifying a tool
09/04/2021 17:13:27
Posted by Sam B 1 on 09/04/2021 15:21:33:

I couldn't find any screws of the right size nor any bar or tube big enough to make one from (calling my available tools and materials sparse would be an understatement), but luckily tapping it with the drift like Jason suggested was enough to get it loose. I'll definitely have to get around one before it comes time to reassemble it of course, but for now everything is golden so thank you all for the help! :D

Sam.

Hi Sam,

Now that you have got the nut in your hand make a suitable wrench to fit the nut ! You also might have to file any damage off from the slots.

Thread: ER40 collet nut seized
09/04/2021 17:07:55

Hi Tony, Guys,

It only takes a sliver of metal to jam up a thread ! It can get down the slots in the side of the collet and into the threads.

09/04/2021 11:17:48
Posted by Neil Lickfold on 09/04/2021 11:00:13:

They can do this if the inner thread is not cleaned out before putting the next collet or cutter in the chuck. Even just changing cutters in the same collet size, you really should should take the whole nut off and clean it all out and check that the body thread is all clean too.

+1

Thread: "TINKER" tool & cutter grinder
09/04/2021 11:12:09

Hi Guys,

I do believe the "Tinker" was originally designed in the UK ! I believe that I've seen drawings in ME or MEM quite some years ago. There was another very similar TCG published as well, the "Raymac" By an Irish writer ! The two are very similar. I used to have some castings from a bloke in Fens, I suspect they have been lost in a move back on the 1990's.

Thread: How do I remove this small bearing? And the one behind it.
09/04/2021 10:57:50

Hi Guys,

It won't be the first time that I have made a mandrel to remove bearings in blind bores. First most bearings that I've come across tend to have a slight chamfer on the edges. So I've turned suitable piece of rod to be a good fit in the bore, drilled down the centre and split the end with a hacksaw, then clamped the split in a vise and threaded it. Using a suitable bolt threaded into it the split is forced apart and will grip the bearing bore very securely. You can then use any convenient method to remove the bearing such as a hooked slide hammer.

Thread: LG TV ... updated webOS
09/04/2021 10:36:08
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 08/04/2021 20:10:12:

Interesting post by a Privacy Lawyer : **LINK**

https://www.lexology.com/library/detail.aspx?g=bf6d90ba-5fac-47e4-80b5-d961efac6362

MichaelG.

.

P.S. __ It’s not just LG

Hi Michael, Guys,

While the information given in that link is OK, the website itself loads a bucket load of code into your browser ! Which actually does all the things that were are trying to prevent. It mainly uses "Java & Javascript" to basically hack the web browser. Something you definitely don't want on a Wins machine !

Thread: Home Made Rear Toolpost Issue
06/04/2021 09:01:04
Posted by Dr_GMJN on 05/04/2021 23:32:05:

This is a top view of the lathe showing the front toolpost, and rear post. The front post is usually angled a bit, and the tool not extended as much, which makes the relative clearances shown fairly representative. You can see that there is not much room with the rear post in place, and it’s far less risky and stressful to simply remove it:

Hi Dr GMJN,

I agree with your comment about completely removing the rear TP when not needed. I don't remove mine, but then I have the extended cross slide.

However looking at your second picture and putting a rule across between the two tools, there is a definite height difference between them ! I assume that you are going to make a tool height setting gauge. If so you will be able to instantly see which is right.

While I think about it, the height given it the drawing that I posted needs to be adjusted to suit your centre height. I did mention how I did it on mine. I really don't understand why it should be so difficult to get and set the tool height.

I made and use the "Norman Patent" tool posts on both front and back of my cross slide ! No shims needed and always dead on height. Actually I think that making one is a very good turning and boring exercise.

05/04/2021 17:24:07

Posted by Dr_GMJN on 05/04/2021 11:07:35:

Ok thanks guys. So I could make a gauge similar to Johns. To get the height, perhaps put some bar in the chuck, then measure the height by putting slip gauges on the cross slide, then add the radius of the bar? Then machine to that dimension? I don’t have a height gauge, but have got most of a set of second hand slips.

Hi Guys,

The easy way to get your lathe centre height is to put a scriber in the chuck and use a piece of plate on the cross slide and scribe a line ! Measure it and record the figure. If you are not happy with any chuck run out when you do this, just rotate the chuck 90 degrees and scribe again. You will certainly be more accurate than doing it by eye and guessing.

05/04/2021 07:36:54

Hi Dr GMJN, Guys,

Here is my lathe tool height gauge, made from bits of scrap !

26-02-2020-01.jpg

26-02-2020-02.jpg

And a drawing !

height gauge.jpg

Its very handy. Just sit it on the cross slide and set the tool edge either under the cap or on the top at the side of the cap.

03/04/2021 20:05:12
Posted by Dr_GMJN on 03/04/2021 16:58:27:

So I've repaired the rear toolpost as suggested with some S275 steel, and M8 capheads:



Even though I can't tighten the M8s any more, a small gap appears when tightening the clamp screws - not unexpected I guess:



It works OK, but again, not the night and day difference I was expecting having read various accounts of using a rear post. I tried it on some brass bar. The parted-off bits have a pip on them, even though the parting tool is tapered slightly to to bit that's being parted - presumably to avoid this:

Hi Dr GmJn,

From looking at your pictures, you have made a very nice job of the repair on that tool post, I like the toe clamp. A good idea.

However I wouldn't tighten the clamp screws down so hard as to distort the new tool holder cap plate ! Another point is that the parting blade extends outside the cross slide, the ideal position is to have the blade above the slideway of the cross slide. This will reduce the cutting forces that want to tip the tool holder towards the tailstock, reducing stability. My last suggestion is that the tool cutting edge is several thou too high. That pip is far too thick just for the overhang to break it off like that, the ideal is that the blade should be dead on centre height.

JMTP.

Thread: Tyre Guage DRO - capacitance issues?
03/04/2021 15:05:23
Posted by Peter Cook 6 on 02/04/2021 19:28:30:

I use a cheap tyre depth guage as a simple quill DRO on my SX1LP. Apparently it is a capacitance based measuring device.

dro small.jpg

It works very well - as long as I keep my fingers away from it. If I switch it on or zero it using my fingers I get 0.03-0.05mm "jitter" on the display. Zero it with a non conducting object ( plastic T slot cleaner usually) and all is well.

Take the device off the mill and it behaves perfectly as does another similar unit I use for measuring the depth of holes.

I suspect the issue is a capacitance effect between me and the ground plane provided by the big lump of iron to which it is screwed.

Can anyone explain in a bit more detail how these things work, and make any suggestions as to how I might screen the problem. A bit of brass or plastic between the device and the mill head makes no difference.

Check and make sure that the machine/mill frame is truly earthed ! Any capacitive effect is likely due to any residual voltage on the machine frame.

FWITW, my mill didn't even have the earth wire connected to the machine in the control box ! The earth wire was just hung in mid air. Luckily it didn't touch anything that could have caused damage.

Thread: Warco 712 Bandsaw
03/04/2021 14:53:08

Hi Guys,

Having acquired a damaged 6X4 bandsaw and completely refurbished it for very little money, its a machine that with a little care and careful adjustment I wouldn't be without. So I wholeheartedly agree that they are machines that are worthy of attention. Though the pressed sheet metal frame ones are not worth wasting time on.

Machine Mart keep a full range of spares for them.

Almost forgot !  You can get an idea of blade tension by tapping the blade with a 8" screwdriver handle.  When its tight enough you can hear it twang.

 

 

 

Edited By John Baron on 03/04/2021 14:56:42

Thread: Are we being listened to on the phone
03/04/2021 09:33:39
Posted by V8Eng on 28/03/2021 23:14:25:

Apparently we might be getting listened to whilst on our phones.

Who’s listening

What ever makes you think that the UK, USA and other countries don't listen in ! We have GCHQ and have been spying on ourselves and others for years ! Mobile phones and computers just make it easier ! Why do you think that strong encryption is considered a weapon in the US and unlawful not to give up passwords here in the UK.

Thread: Thread type
30/03/2021 20:03:19

Hi Richard,

Could be Cycle thread, 5/32 CSI 30 tpi.

Thread: Getting my head round the rotary table
26/03/2021 16:45:13

Hi Nick, Guys,

My mill has an MT3 spindle, so all I do to centre the RT is put a centre in the mill spindle and use the hole in the middle of the rotary table to locate the centre. Then clamp the table down. As far as centring the work I'll leave that to you.

Thread: 1960's Car Steering Wheel Taper Angle
26/03/2021 16:34:39
Posted by Dr_GMJN on 26/03/2021 16:01:06:
Posted by Ian P on 26/03/2021 15:24:28:

Might be changing the subject a little, but...

That woodrim steering wheel appears to be a good quality one and whilst I'm all for having a smart looking workshop it looks a little over specified for a mandrel handle. The main point is that it will definitely have a commercial value especially if it has some age. Steering wheels from some 60s (not just exotics/Ferarri's) cars fetch four figures.

Ian P

Thanks Ian. My late dad fitted it to the MGB in the ‘60’s. It’s one of the unique things I remember about it while being driven around on holiday and to Silverstone in the ‘70’s. When we restored the car in ‘88/‘89, we re-fitted the original wheel. I bought a Moto-Lita wheel for it, but never liked it, so once again fitted the original.

My dad always said it needed more rivets to hold the wood to the rim, because of the risk of splintering in a crash. I think there was a standard or something that it didn’t comply with. Having said that, the E-Type wheel has no rivets at all.

Anyway, I won’t be selling it, so might as well use it for something useful. I might even re-fit it to the MG at some point. The method of converting it to a hand wheel I’m using, deliberately doesn’t involve any modifications at all. Based on the test I did with it yesterday, I doubt it even needs Loctite if I can get the taper right.

Stuff it with Plasticine inside some cling film or a plastic bag ! Though it would be much easier to use a wood plug and a nut and washer through the middle.

21022015-01.jpg

21022015-04.jpg

This is how I did mine ! It is an old pulley from a washing machine. !

Thread: LG TV ... updated webOS
26/03/2021 09:00:13

Hi Guys,

My smart TV tries to update itself at exactly 3 pm every morning, that is why is is not allowed to connect to the Internet. I've also got it blocked in the router, but it uses a couple of other IP's which are also blocked. Annoyingly it will connect to the neighbours wireless Internet if it can. I've also got that blocked as well !

It is not made any easier with all these Internet routers giving open access to other devices. This is the reason that people like BT, EE Virgin etc insist you leave your router switched on and insist on you using their router. Your are providing a national network for them at you cost.

Note that the ISP can access your router remotely and alter your settings unless you take steps to block them.

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