Here is a list of all the postings John Baron has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Quick release collet chuck clevis|
|Thread: Harrison L5A tool post mod|
Hi Francis, Guys,
I think that the cone is used to clamp the "T" slot, so removing it will mean you need something to replace it ! A flat steel plate would work, and give you a surface to mount another type of tool block. Personally I made my own new toolpost and tool holder to replace the QCTP and four way tool block. A relatively simple job, but you would need a mill to cut the tool holder slot. Even that could be done on the lathe but I wouldn't recommend milling using the lathe.
This is a picture of mine !
It is called a "Norman Patent" tool post. I also made one for the rear of the cross slide, mainly for a parting blade but the tool holders are interchangeable so I can use either at the front or rear. No shims needed to set tool height either. The silver cap head screw sets the height of tool.
I made this height gauge to use to set the tool on centre. The underside of the cap is used for the front and the top of the bar used to set the parting blade height.
Moe pictures in my albums.
|Thread: "TINKER" tool & cutter grinder|
The "Tinker" TCG is best considered an idea that needs your own input rather than a set of poorly drawn details ! GL is a writer of books containing lots of ideas culled from around the world very few if any of which are unique. I don't remember the details of which magazine the "Tinker" was published in other than the ones I mentioned earlier !
If GL was as awkward as you say, I would give it no further consideration !
|Thread: Help needed with identifying a tool|
Now that you have got the nut in your hand make a suitable wrench to fit the nut ! You also might have to file any damage off from the slots.
|Thread: ER40 collet nut seized|
Hi Tony, Guys,
It only takes a sliver of metal to jam up a thread ! It can get down the slots in the side of the collet and into the threads.
|Thread: "TINKER" tool & cutter grinder|
I do believe the "Tinker" was originally designed in the UK ! I believe that I've seen drawings in ME or MEM quite some years ago. There was another very similar TCG published as well, the "Raymac" By an Irish writer ! The two are very similar. I used to have some castings from a bloke in Fens, I suspect they have been lost in a move back on the 1990's.
|Thread: How do I remove this small bearing? And the one behind it.|
It won't be the first time that I have made a mandrel to remove bearings in blind bores. First most bearings that I've come across tend to have a slight chamfer on the edges. So I've turned suitable piece of rod to be a good fit in the bore, drilled down the centre and split the end with a hacksaw, then clamped the split in a vise and threaded it. Using a suitable bolt threaded into it the split is forced apart and will grip the bearing bore very securely. You can then use any convenient method to remove the bearing such as a hooked slide hammer.
|Thread: LG TV ... updated webOS|
Hi Michael, Guys,
|Thread: Home Made Rear Toolpost Issue|
Hi Dr GMJN,
I agree with your comment about completely removing the rear TP when not needed. I don't remove mine, but then I have the extended cross slide.
However looking at your second picture and putting a rule across between the two tools, there is a definite height difference between them ! I assume that you are going to make a tool height setting gauge. If so you will be able to instantly see which is right.
While I think about it, the height given it the drawing that I posted needs to be adjusted to suit your centre height. I did mention how I did it on mine. I really don't understand why it should be so difficult to get and set the tool height.
I made and use the "Norman Patent" tool posts on both front and back of my cross slide ! No shims needed and always dead on height. Actually I think that making one is a very good turning and boring exercise.
The easy way to get your lathe centre height is to put a scriber in the chuck and use a piece of plate on the cross slide and scribe a line ! Measure it and record the figure. If you are not happy with any chuck run out when you do this, just rotate the chuck 90 degrees and scribe again. You will certainly be more accurate than doing it by eye and guessing.
Hi Dr GMJN, Guys,
Here is my lathe tool height gauge, made from bits of scrap !
And a drawing !
Its very handy. Just sit it on the cross slide and set the tool edge either under the cap or on the top at the side of the cap.
Hi Dr GmJn,
From looking at your pictures, you have made a very nice job of the repair on that tool post, I like the toe clamp. A good idea.
However I wouldn't tighten the clamp screws down so hard as to distort the new tool holder cap plate ! Another point is that the parting blade extends outside the cross slide, the ideal position is to have the blade above the slideway of the cross slide. This will reduce the cutting forces that want to tip the tool holder towards the tailstock, reducing stability. My last suggestion is that the tool cutting edge is several thou too high. That pip is far too thick just for the overhang to break it off like that, the ideal is that the blade should be dead on centre height.
|Thread: Tyre Guage DRO - capacitance issues?|
Check and make sure that the machine/mill frame is truly earthed ! Any capacitive effect is likely due to any residual voltage on the machine frame.
FWITW, my mill didn't even have the earth wire connected to the machine in the control box ! The earth wire was just hung in mid air. Luckily it didn't touch anything that could have caused damage.
|Thread: Warco 712 Bandsaw|
Having acquired a damaged 6X4 bandsaw and completely refurbished it for very little money, its a machine that with a little care and careful adjustment I wouldn't be without. So I wholeheartedly agree that they are machines that are worthy of attention. Though the pressed sheet metal frame ones are not worth wasting time on.
Machine Mart keep a full range of spares for them.
Almost forgot ! You can get an idea of blade tension by tapping the blade with a 8" screwdriver handle. When its tight enough you can hear it twang.
Edited By John Baron on 03/04/2021 14:56:42
|Thread: Are we being listened to on the phone|
What ever makes you think that the UK, USA and other countries don't listen in ! We have GCHQ and have been spying on ourselves and others for years ! Mobile phones and computers just make it easier ! Why do you think that strong encryption is considered a weapon in the US and unlawful not to give up passwords here in the UK.
|Thread: Thread type|
Could be Cycle thread, 5/32 CSI 30 tpi.
|Thread: Getting my head round the rotary table|
Hi Nick, Guys,
My mill has an MT3 spindle, so all I do to centre the RT is put a centre in the mill spindle and use the hole in the middle of the rotary table to locate the centre. Then clamp the table down. As far as centring the work I'll leave that to you.
|Thread: 1960's Car Steering Wheel Taper Angle|
Stuff it with Plasticine inside some cling film or a plastic bag ! Though it would be much easier to use a wood plug and a nut and washer through the middle.
This is how I did mine ! It is an old pulley from a washing machine. !
|Thread: LG TV ... updated webOS|
My smart TV tries to update itself at exactly 3 pm every morning, that is why is is not allowed to connect to the Internet. I've also got it blocked in the router, but it uses a couple of other IP's which are also blocked. Annoyingly it will connect to the neighbours wireless Internet if it can. I've also got that blocked as well !
It is not made any easier with all these Internet routers giving open access to other devices. This is the reason that people like BT, EE Virgin etc insist you leave your router switched on and insist on you using their router. Your are providing a national network for them at you cost.
Note that the ISP can access your router remotely and alter your settings unless you take steps to block them.
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