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Member postings for John Baron

Here is a list of all the postings John Baron has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Kant Twist alternative?
08/12/2021 20:52:00

kant-01.jpegHi Guys,

This picture contains all the data required to design what ever size Kant type clamp you may want to make.

Note that the size is based on two concentric circles, all the holes bar one fall on a circle. The symmetry makes designing your own easy. The dimensions on this drawing are the ones that I used to make 100 mm clamps.

I had my four pairs of frames laser cut from 3 mm plate for the sum of £10.00.

Thread: keyless chucks
23/11/2021 12:08:49

Hi Lynne,

I tend to replace the keyless chucks with quite cheap 1/2" keyed ones, mainly because the battery drills seem to use 10 mm capacity chucks that are quite poor and often or not I need to use a bigger drill. The ones I've bought are usually sold with an arbour intended for SDS drills. They are the same thread as the keyless ones and just screw straight on. Just beware though there is a left hand screw in the middle of the jaws, that you have to remove first and then replace when you have swapped the chuck.

I've probably eight or so spare keyless 10 mm drill chucks. One of them is only 8 mm !

Thread: Axminster Drill Clamp
22/11/2021 08:54:44

Hi Guys,

I used to use a length of all thread bar and clamp work or jigs to the drill table, much in the same way as clamping work down on the mill table. Nowadays I have an X-Y table on the press drill with "T" slots and use the same technique for clamping work down.

Thread: Boring Head - Thread Quality
17/11/2021 19:54:01
Posted by Brian Wood on 17/11/2021 17:13:42:

Hello Steve,

They are roll formed, a necessary method to get the strength into the finished screw and to cope with the sheer number produced in the various length for each thread form that they are supplied in.

All thread is also made in the same way and some time ago I did study the pitch accuracy of the standard supply, but to a size of not less than M6. The accuracy is really remarkably good considering that miles of this useful material must be produced daily. I found that M6 was good to an error value of +0.005 mm in 100 mm of thread and M8 to a value of -0.005 mm in 90 mm

I think your M3 screw will fall into similar error values which might be a trifle better than you might achieve screw cutting on a ;lathe, but I do question the size you have selected from the point of view of wear.

Regards

Brian.

Hi Brian, Guys,

I've used a lot of M6 left and right hand all thread for lead screws on several items ! The 1 mm pitch and a graduated dial with 40 index marks on a 50 mm diameter dial varies less than one index mark in 40 turns, so I would say that the error is negligible.

Thread: QCAD/CAM
17/11/2021 19:38:24
Posted by blowlamp on 17/11/2021 16:01:24:
Posted by John Baron on 17/11/2021 15:32:00:
Posted by blowlamp on 17/11/2021 11:47:54:

It seems you may struggle to find many users of the QCAM module - it's not something I have come across in my CAD/CAM travels, I must admit.

If you just want a well sorted & reliable CAM system for milling & laser at a reasonable price point, then I suggest you download the CamBam trial software. It will accept DXF files from QCAD, as well as STL & STEP for any 3D work you may want to do in the future.

CamBam has an excellent support forum which will put you back on track as and when you need it. There are also people on here that can help too - me included.

Martin.

A major problem for me is that there is no Linux version of CamBam ! Where as Qcad with the Cam module does support Linux. Having said that I do use Qcad regularly, and I have played with the Cam part but don't actually use it in anger, not having any CNC machines.

Here you go.

Hi Blowlamp,

Thankyou for that link ! I'll have a play with that.

Thread: Righthand Tool known as a Left?
17/11/2021 15:40:20

Hi Guys,

If you want some very cheap or even free HSS blanks, have a word with your local scrap yard ! I've picked up a lot of HSS and carbide tool steel that way. Some has been very odd sizes, many already being ground to shape just needing touching up.

Thread: QCAD/CAM
17/11/2021 15:32:00
Posted by blowlamp on 17/11/2021 11:47:54:

It seems you may struggle to find many users of the QCAM module - it's not something I have come across in my CAD/CAM travels, I must admit.

If you just want a well sorted & reliable CAM system for milling & laser at a reasonable price point, then I suggest you download the CamBam trial software. It will accept DXF files from QCAD, as well as STL & STEP for any 3D work you may want to do in the future.

CamBam has an excellent support forum which will put you back on track as and when you need it. There are also people on here that can help too - me included.

Martin.

A major problem for me is that there is no Linux version of CamBam ! Where as Qcad with the Cam module does support Linux. Having said that I do use Qcad regularly, and I have played with the Cam part but don't actually use it in anger, not having any CNC machines.

Thread: Warco WM 16 motor
09/11/2021 16:29:01
Posted by mgnbuk on 09/11/2021 09:44:17:

There are no field coils to conduct the heat into the motor body !

Nigel B.

Hi Nigel, Guys,

My comment was aimed at conventional induction motors, having field coils wound on an iron former that directly conducts any heat into the motor body. Since the DC motors used on these mills use ferrite magnets to provide the field and don't generate any heat. Any heat from the armature can only escape via the bearings supporting the armature.

The rather puny fan inside barely moves any air to cool the armature, even at full speed.

08/11/2021 19:42:59
Posted by Iain Hogg on 07/11/2021 13:12:19:

Does anyone have any experience of replacing the standard 750w motor in the WM 16.

I'm now on my second motor but have a constant problem with overheating - which leads to the brush covers melting and jamming in body of the motor.

First motor was exactly the same and I've had to resort to breaking the plastic covers out and using plastic plugs and cable ties to hold the brushes in place.

Is there a similar sized slightly more powerful electric motor available that could be substituted?

Hi Ian,

I have a similar mill, a Chinese "Optimum BF20LB" mill. I've repaired the motor on several occasions ! I made and replaced the gears with steel ones because the plastic ones stripped the teeth, and it was more cost effective to replace them. Actually the gears stripped whilst using a slitting saw on aluminium, the work got hot and grabbed the blade stripping the teeth off the gears.

I do have a 3 phase motor to replace the DC one and have made some parts to mount it, however a ducted cooling fan mounted on top of the existing motor seems to have much reduced the heat that is created. The major problem with the heating of the motor is simply that the only way that the armature can get rid of the heat is through the bearings. There are no field coils to conduct the heat into the motor body !

The brushes and brush holders suffer badly because of it. Also the push on tags don't make a good electrical connection so they get hot and the resistance increases causing them to get even hotter. I've thoroughly cleaned and soldered the tags to the brush holder terminals. This removes the major cause of brush holder failure due to heating.

The motor still gets very warm but nowhere near as much.

 

 

Edited By John Baron on 08/11/2021 19:50:36

Thread: Fobco 7/8 pillar drill
03/11/2021 19:14:18

Hi Guys,

My FOBCO uses an A56 belt ! I got mine from Motorsave, about £7.00p a couple of years ago.

Thread: Ferrous, facing, HSS tool geometry
29/10/2021 08:22:22

Hi Guys,

I use a "Shear" tool particularly when I want a good finish for a bearing fit !

The only problem is that you can only take about a thou DOC without destroying the tool edge. The swarf comes off like a very fine spider web.

Thread: Calor 340
29/10/2021 08:17:19

Hi Guys,

A maximum 80% fill is the recommended level ! At least for LPG.

Thread: From where I might be able to source some 1300 micron (1.3mm) mild steel sheet?
19/10/2021 16:16:02

Hi John, Guys,

Try an old computer case panel !

Thread: Fly cutter face angles
24/09/2021 15:22:34

Hi Duncan, Thankyou for your comments.

I called this a left hand cutter because if it were in a lathe looking down at it, the tool cutting edge would be on the left side !

But I'm probably wrong to call it that, after going and looking at some lathe tool pictures. It seems that handedness is as viewed from the front rather than down from the top. But I can't go back and edit my post to correct it.sad

24/09/2021 11:49:59

Hi Guys,

No I've never seen ones like mine for sale either ! Probably because they are too easy to make, primarily a simple turning job, with a press fitted shaft, and with only a single tapped hole for an M6 grub screw and a simple drilled hole for the cutting bit. Obviously the shaft and the disc have to be square to each other.

After turning the shaft and pressing it in, I faced the disc whilst holding the shaft in the lathe chuck. This ensures that there will not be any wobble and the whole lot will be concentric. The hole for the tool bit was drilled and the grubscrew hole drilled and tapped before pressing the shaft in place.

I use short pieces of 1/4" inch square HSS tool steel, though I did have a small piece of 8 mm round carbide rod that I put a cutting edge onto and tried.

The original idea was to take advantage of the flywheel effect and making the shaft and disc out of 20 mm thick material offers both rigidity and balance ! I can spin this fly cutter as fast as the mill will go, just over 2650 rpm without any detectable vibration, which you can't do with the conventional angled cutter types.

It also reduces the edge hammer that you get with narrow work and large DOC.

In use I tend to run at around 250/300 rpm and 20 thou DOC in steel. The actual cutting face has the same rounded corner as a lathe tool but the cutting face is about 2 mm wide. I do this so that it reduces the tram lines that you get if the feed rate moves the work forward before the next cutter sweep.

In the picture the cutter has a round edge, I no longer use this shape ! While it works it produces a high spindle loading and looses its edge very rapidly. A more left hand lathe tool shape is much better and actually easier to sharpen.

24/09/2021 08:41:19

This is my go to fly cutter !

As far as the cutter is concerned it is treated as though it was a left hand lathe tool. Its on a 20 mm shaft and the disc is 20 mm thick. Depending upon material and spindle speed I can hog mild steel off with a 0.5 mm DOC, 1 mm in aluminium. I recently tried a carbide cutter and whilst I could up the spindle speed the surface finish was little different from the HSS cutter I use.

I won't go into the pros of this cutter unless anybody asks.

new_flycutter-1.jpg

Thread: Cutting down a linear glass DRO encoder
19/09/2021 10:16:35
Posted by Robin Graham on 01/05/2020 21:53:08:

Thanks Paul, but after taking the read head off and removing the wipers it's clear that the scale is glued along its whole length, so no chance of getting it out.

I too have watched YT videos - at least one person has got away with just chopping through the ali extrusion and glass scale in one go with a standard metal cutting bandsaw. I reckon the blade must have chipped the glass which then broke in the right place. The blade cannot possibly have actually cut the glass. He got lucky I think!

Being a scaredy-cat I've been making experiments on mock-ups and have come to the conclusion that it's probably best done by hand, so I've ordered up some carbide tipped hacksaw blades.

What can possibly go wrong? Watch this space and you'll probably find out....

Robin

 

Hi Robin,

I cut my glass scales using the bandsaw, 14 tooth blade, without any issues. The trick is to pack the glass scale inside the extrusion so that it cannot move. I used paper towel damped with water and packed it as tight as I could. The bandsaw cut it easily with only very slight chipping of the edge of the glass. I removed the paper packing with a dental pick.

Good Luck.

02-03-2021-004.jpg

02-03-2021-005.jpg

As can be seen in this picture the chipping was only slight !

 

Edited By John Baron on 19/09/2021 10:27:14

Thread: Cutting Steel Plate.
19/09/2021 09:58:09
Posted by Samsaranda on 19/09/2021 08:28:47:

Is the wife’s washing line 75 feet up in the air then? 🤔 Dave W

No ! The tower base and 8 ft support post is all that is left. The actual tower was scrapped some time ago.

I have some people coming to cut the gusset plates away ! They are aware that its galvanised and said that its not a problem.

Thanks for the advice guys, its appreciated !

Thread: Myford boring bar help
19/09/2021 09:43:01

Hi Guys,

This is a drawing of mine ! I made it to specifically adjust the cutter. The nice thing is that once used its easy to set the cutter to increase the depth accurately.

boring cutter adjuster.jpg

It was designed for a upto 20 mm diameter boring bar. It works quite well on a smaller diameter bar as well. Otherwise just adjust dimensions to suit your bar.

Thread: Cutting Steel Plate.
12/09/2021 09:11:52

Thanks Guys,

Some good advice there ! Fortunately I only want to remove one of the four gussets, though removing the front two would be an advantage in giving me a clear area. The rear two gussets can be left alone since there are large water storage tanks on either side catching rain water off the building roofs. The column is being used to support the wife's washing line, so woe betide me if I disturbed it.

I'm going to make enquiries at a tool hire place in town and see if they have anything that can help !

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