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Member postings for John Baron

Here is a list of all the postings John Baron has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Fly cutter face angles
24/09/2021 15:22:34

Hi Duncan, Thankyou for your comments.

I called this a left hand cutter because if it were in a lathe looking down at it, the tool cutting edge would be on the left side !

But I'm probably wrong to call it that, after going and looking at some lathe tool pictures. It seems that handedness is as viewed from the front rather than down from the top. But I can't go back and edit my post to correct it.sad

24/09/2021 11:49:59

Hi Guys,

No I've never seen ones like mine for sale either ! Probably because they are too easy to make, primarily a simple turning job, with a press fitted shaft, and with only a single tapped hole for an M6 grub screw and a simple drilled hole for the cutting bit. Obviously the shaft and the disc have to be square to each other.

After turning the shaft and pressing it in, I faced the disc whilst holding the shaft in the lathe chuck. This ensures that there will not be any wobble and the whole lot will be concentric. The hole for the tool bit was drilled and the grubscrew hole drilled and tapped before pressing the shaft in place.

I use short pieces of 1/4" inch square HSS tool steel, though I did have a small piece of 8 mm round carbide rod that I put a cutting edge onto and tried.

The original idea was to take advantage of the flywheel effect and making the shaft and disc out of 20 mm thick material offers both rigidity and balance ! I can spin this fly cutter as fast as the mill will go, just over 2650 rpm without any detectable vibration, which you can't do with the conventional angled cutter types.

It also reduces the edge hammer that you get with narrow work and large DOC.

In use I tend to run at around 250/300 rpm and 20 thou DOC in steel. The actual cutting face has the same rounded corner as a lathe tool but the cutting face is about 2 mm wide. I do this so that it reduces the tram lines that you get if the feed rate moves the work forward before the next cutter sweep.

In the picture the cutter has a round edge, I no longer use this shape ! While it works it produces a high spindle loading and looses its edge very rapidly. A more left hand lathe tool shape is much better and actually easier to sharpen.

24/09/2021 08:41:19

This is my go to fly cutter !

As far as the cutter is concerned it is treated as though it was a left hand lathe tool. Its on a 20 mm shaft and the disc is 20 mm thick. Depending upon material and spindle speed I can hog mild steel off with a 0.5 mm DOC, 1 mm in aluminium. I recently tried a carbide cutter and whilst I could up the spindle speed the surface finish was little different from the HSS cutter I use.

I won't go into the pros of this cutter unless anybody asks.

new_flycutter-1.jpg

Thread: Cutting down a linear glass DRO encoder
19/09/2021 10:16:35
Posted by Robin Graham on 01/05/2020 21:53:08:

Thanks Paul, but after taking the read head off and removing the wipers it's clear that the scale is glued along its whole length, so no chance of getting it out.

I too have watched YT videos - at least one person has got away with just chopping through the ali extrusion and glass scale in one go with a standard metal cutting bandsaw. I reckon the blade must have chipped the glass which then broke in the right place. The blade cannot possibly have actually cut the glass. He got lucky I think!

Being a scaredy-cat I've been making experiments on mock-ups and have come to the conclusion that it's probably best done by hand, so I've ordered up some carbide tipped hacksaw blades.

What can possibly go wrong? Watch this space and you'll probably find out....

Robin

 

Hi Robin,

I cut my glass scales using the bandsaw, 14 tooth blade, without any issues. The trick is to pack the glass scale inside the extrusion so that it cannot move. I used paper towel damped with water and packed it as tight as I could. The bandsaw cut it easily with only very slight chipping of the edge of the glass. I removed the paper packing with a dental pick.

Good Luck.

02-03-2021-004.jpg

02-03-2021-005.jpg

As can be seen in this picture the chipping was only slight !

 

Edited By John Baron on 19/09/2021 10:27:14

Thread: Cutting Steel Plate.
19/09/2021 09:58:09
Posted by Samsaranda on 19/09/2021 08:28:47:

Is the wife’s washing line 75 feet up in the air then? 🤔 Dave W

No ! The tower base and 8 ft support post is all that is left. The actual tower was scrapped some time ago.

I have some people coming to cut the gusset plates away ! They are aware that its galvanised and said that its not a problem.

Thanks for the advice guys, its appreciated !

Thread: Myford boring bar help
19/09/2021 09:43:01

Hi Guys,

This is a drawing of mine ! I made it to specifically adjust the cutter. The nice thing is that once used its easy to set the cutter to increase the depth accurately.

boring cutter adjuster.jpg

It was designed for a upto 20 mm diameter boring bar. It works quite well on a smaller diameter bar as well. Otherwise just adjust dimensions to suit your bar.

Thread: Cutting Steel Plate.
12/09/2021 09:11:52

Thanks Guys,

Some good advice there ! Fortunately I only want to remove one of the four gussets, though removing the front two would be an advantage in giving me a clear area. The rear two gussets can be left alone since there are large water storage tanks on either side catching rain water off the building roofs. The column is being used to support the wife's washing line, so woe betide me if I disturbed it.

I'm going to make enquiries at a tool hire place in town and see if they have anything that can help !

Thread: Workholding Problem
12/09/2021 08:27:35

Dr_GMJN,

Mount the part on an expanding mandrel !

I've done this many times ! Turn a mandrel the right diameter and a good fit in the workpiece bore. Slit it at the free end first. Then use a small wood screw or other tapered screw to expand a slit in the end once the piece is on.

A blind bore is more difficult and really needs a collet chuck to make the mandrel ! The same principle applies but you have to be able to expand the mandrel from the chuck end, which means drilling right through and using a pull rod to expand a taper.

 

Edit: Spelling.

Edited By John Baron on 12/09/2021 08:30:04

Thread: Cutting Steel Plate.
11/09/2021 20:41:04
Posted by J Hancock on 11/09/2021 17:07:18:

Just a thought , the local 'gypsies' ?

That's a thought, there is a settlement not too far from me. Its worth a word with them.

Thanks.

11/09/2021 14:42:38
Posted by Nicholas Farr on 11/09/2021 12:07:12:

Hi John, I would probably do it with a 9" and cutting discs, as I don't have any gas axe options, a photo or a sketch of what you have would help in knowing what you are trying to achieve and the best way to tackle it.

Regards Nick.

Edited By Nicholas Farr on 11/09/2021 12:07:52

Hi Nick,

Thanks for your suggestions ! I've had a go with a 9" inch angle grinder, and whilst it does remove metal, its slow and painful.

The actual tower base is basically an 8" inch square vertical steel tube welded to a 3/4" thick 5 foot square steel plate with four 1/2" thick steel gussets welded from the tube corners to the base corners. They are welded on both sides of the gusset and along the full length of the gusset.

The Gas Axe suggestion is the best option at the moment. But I don't have one either !

11/09/2021 12:07:01
Posted by John Rudd on 11/09/2021 12:00:06:
Posted by John Baron on 11/09/2021 11:36:11:
Posted by noel shelley on 11/09/2021 10:18:29:

Sounds like fun ! Where are you ? Noel

Hi Noel,

I'm in North Yorkshire, near York.

You aren't cutting up the 'lightning struck' Bilsdale tv mast are you? laugh

No that mast is a bit taller than 75 foot !

Thread: To laser cut or to water cut
11/09/2021 12:03:07

Hi Guys,

The people that have done laser cutting for me, require that you submit a DXF file along with material specifications. Depending upon what jobs they already have, they can add your job to an existing one, particularly if you are prepared to wait a little ! This will also reduce the cost considerably because they don't have to set up the machine just for your job. You can get a lot of pieces out of a sheet of plate.

Thread: Cutting Steel Plate.
11/09/2021 11:51:21
Posted by JasonB on 11/09/2021 10:19:40:

Gas Axe or a decent size plasma cutter.

If you do take the lunch option mentioned above make sure you go at least 75 feet away from the tower to get it but hopefully it's not erected.

Hi Jason,

Yes it would be bad if it fell on me !

However it has been taken down and cut up for scrap some time ago. There is only the support post and base there now. Makes a good support for the wife's washing line though ! I did offer the tower for sale without any takers ! Even saying that it was free to anyone that was prepared to dismantle it and take it away.

The Gas Axe suggestion is favourite, trying to grind away four foot of weld isn't my idea of fun !

The metal plate is considered to be scrap, though a two foot triangular piece of 1/2" inch galvanised steel plate could be useful I suppose.

11/09/2021 11:36:11
Posted by noel shelley on 11/09/2021 10:18:29:

Sounds like fun ! Where are you ? Noel

Hi Noel,

I'm in North Yorkshire, near York.

Thread: To laser cut or to water cut
11/09/2021 09:19:13

Hi Ja,

Laser cut will likely produce a very hard surface where the laser has gone through, water cutting doesn't do that.

If its something that you would need to file or otherwise clean up then you would grind the laser cut surface.

Thread: Cutting Steel Plate.
11/09/2021 09:09:52

Hi Guys,

I'm looking for recommendations for cutting a 1/2" thick steel plate !

I need to remove the support webs from a 75' foot tower base !

Forgot to add these are seam welded on and the plate is approx 2 foot by 2 foot.

 

 

 

Edited By John Baron on 11/09/2021 09:23:20

Thread: Wall Chart
24/07/2021 17:16:13

Hi Derek,

Cromwells do a free on request A3 size one on a paper backing,

Worth a phone call !

Thread: Old lathe tools
22/07/2021 08:02:19

Hi Dan, Guys,

I would pinch the knurls from the push knurling tool and make a pinch or scissor type tool to use them on. The knurls on those are usually good quality ones !

Thread: Setting up rear parting tool properly
22/07/2021 07:57:16

Hi Guys,

This is a picture of my "Norman" patent rear tool holder with a 12mm X 2mm blade in a holder. It is horizontal and set exactly at centre height. The tool holder can be used on the front tool post as well.

31-07-2019x002.jpg

Thread: 12 volt motor speed controller
19/07/2021 20:15:50

Hi John, Guys,

When I built my window screen wiper motor driven mill table drive, I used a variable voltage lab type power supply. Mine supplies 30 volts at 3 amps. I just use the whole 30 volts for fast traverse and around 7 volts for actual milling.

My direction control is via a tumbler gear very similar to the one found on a Myford lathe, giving me forward/stop/ and reverse directions.

mill-table-drive.jpg

This is a picture of mine mounted on the left hand side of the table. I just pull the white knob out and lift or lower the lever to select the direction or neutral. It also has the advantage that I can still use the handwheel at the other end when neutral is selected.

All the gears were salvaged from printers. photocopiers and the like. The motor unit is a "Trico" one salvaged from the local scrapyard.

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