Here is a list of all the postings Jon Gibbs has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Pigtail mop thread help|
Thanks very much. As you say the pigtail is not a precision taper/thread so a bit of movement will not be a disaster.
I will not use this for the Morse Taper.
Thank you for the suggestion. I did wonder about that possibility - possibly with a home-made offset centre based upon a blank-end arbour.
Is there a trick to ensure it stays horizontal in the morse-taper - A draw-bar through the tailstock perhaps?
Thanks all for the guidance and discouragement
- I didn't think it was going to be straight forward but thought it'd be a fun thing to try.
I already have a cheap pigtail on a 1/4" shaft but another one on an MT2 arbour would have been pretty handy.
Anyway, at least I have the satisfaction of knowing that I wasn't missing something obvious.
Another question please.
I'd like to cut a threaded taper for a pig-tail mop mandrel but my lathe doesn't have either a taper attachment or a power cross-feed. It's a plain-old Myford ML7.
I think I could do it by moving my tailstock over but is there another way because I'm hesitant to change the tailstock alignment as it's taken me a while to get it right on centre
Any guidance or ideas would be very gratefully received.
|Thread: Quick Acting Knob Question|
Thank you so much everyone for the useful information and especially to Gary for providing the pdf of the MEW article.
I'll have a go when I get chance.
Many thanks again
Thank you for the pointer Brian.
Unfortunately, I have to admit that I'm not a subscriber of MEW
I'd quite like to make a quick-acting knob for the depth stop on my drill-press like the one below. The current nut is an M10 Fine which is a bit of a nuisance to set and slow to adjust - and this seems a neat idea which I saw as a suggested mod for a milling machine.
Has anyone made one of these and would offer any advice on the best way and pitfalls please? The suggested angle for the through-hole is 12 degrees.
I'm thinking of drilling and tapping the M10 fine threaded through hole first followed by milling out a 10mm hole at an angle with a centre-cutting end mill. Any other tips I might find useful please?
Edited By Jon Gibbs on 05/04/2014 11:29:09
|Thread: Stripped thread repair advice please|
Well I successfully did the deed last night and she is now fixed and back up and running
Finally plumped for two M10 stainless steel inserts loctited into tapped holes in the casting with 1/4 BSF threads up the middle.
Thanks very much for all the suggestions and help.
I feel pretty daft - I bought the lathe off Ebay but didn't think of looking for spares there .
I have already spent more than £15 on bits to fix the old one but never mind. It's even the right colour - the only problem is that the oiler is the wrong type - my lathe has the old flat oilers.
Anyway, I will stick with plan A now and if I cock it up I'll revert to your plan and buy one off Ebay. They seem fairly common as you so rightly suggested.
Thanks again though
Thank you for the suggestion Eric.
I'll try the repair first - but if there's a problem with it I will certainly follow your advice.
Thanks - that certainly looks very easy.
I don't think it's ideal for this job as the casting I'm trying to repair has some bearings pretty close to the stripped threads I don't want to disturb but definitely worth considering for future jobs.
Hahaha, yes. I found an M7 x 1 plug tap last night but no 1/4" BSF.
Here in the wilds of Cumbria and with the cost of fuel in the UK it is almost certainly cheaper to buy consumables on-line and have them delivered than to drive to borrow something, bring it back and use it and then do another return trip to return it .
Then you've got it somewhere tantalizingly in the workshop, almost certainly never to be found again, the next time you want it.
Apologies for not putting this in the thread - I'm in Windermere, Cumbria.
Thank you again for the helpful advice and replies.
I've made my decision and have ordered some 1/4 BSF taps and will drill and tap a couple of lengths of M10 stud on the lathe and install these into new tapped holes in the casting with Loctite. M10 should allow for enough meat between the thread crests of the 1/4 thread and the core of the new stud - I was a bit worried that M8 would be cutting things a bit fine.
I've made myself a hardwood drilling/tapping guide to ensure that my tapped hole can be made square and concentric with the existing holes and equidistant from the leadscrew as these'll have to done freehand.
Many thanks again
The quadrant is off - the woodruf key just popped out easily
Having cleaned everything up I think the plug/redrill and tap will be pretty straight forward. I just need the 1/4 26 BSF tap(s).
I'm quite tempted to create the thread on the outside of the plug and drill the BSF tapping hole concentric before installation. Does this make sense or am I making the plugging more difficult?
Thanks very much for the quick replies and suggestions.
I'll try removing the woodruf key and take it from there.
A 1/4 BSF helicoil kit is about £25 delivered and a set of carbon steel taps for 1/4 BSF is about £10 delivered. So either approach would be in-budget. I've a pretty good selection of metric coarse taps and so making my own insert ought to be quite possible and especially attractive since it'll be the cheaper option.
Many thanks again
One of the 1/4" BSF tapped holes retaining the changewheel quadrant on my old ML7 has been stripped by a previous owner, and the other is not great.
To effect a repair I think I have two options - 1/4" BSF helicoil repair or to retap the holes in the castings larger - say M7x1, and make two new pieces of studding M7x1 on one end and 1/4" BSF on the other.
I think I could do the latter mod without removing the changewheel quadrant because the gap between the slots is just about 7mm although the new thread will not be fully formed. The quadrant however is prevented from being taken off the shaft by the woodruf key which engages the driving gear wheel onto the leadscrew. So, I'm not sure I could do the helicoil repair without removing the woodruf key and quadrant as the helicoil tap will almost certainly foul the sides of the slots. The tapping drill for the helicoil is around 6.6mm and twice the thread depth would be another 1.27mm.
Any suggestions please? How easy would it be to remove and replace the woodruf key?
Are there any other better ways to repair this?
Many thanks in anticipation
|Thread: Advice for novice early ML7 owner please|
Thanks very much to everyone for your responses and the pointers to the grub screw in the centre pulley. That's brilliant and what's so great about forums such as this.
I must admit that I saw the set screw in the well of the middle pulley and thought that it couldn't be there because it would result in a slipping belt if the oil missed its target... but then perhaps that's why they eventually moved the olier
I have Ian Bradley's Myford Series 7 Manual and the more recent official Myford manual but neither of these mentioned this at all.
I can now use backgears without worrying - phew!
Many thanks again
This is my first post and I really hope someone can help me please.
I suppose I'm a woodturner really but I have just bought myself an early ML7 (1950) off evil-bay just for fun. It's had some use and there is some wear on the bed near to the headstock (the sadlle begins to bid as it traverses towards the tailstock end) but it still runs well enough and is nice and quiet.
My machine has the early flat oiling points.
I haven't got a Myford pressurised oiler, yet, but seem to be able to get some oil (HLP 32 from ArcEuroTrade which I think is almost identical to Nuto H32) into the oiling points with a can pushing the ball aside.
My main problem is that I don't know how to oil the three way pulley when in back-gears - there is no oiling point on the right hand side of the pulley cluster as indicated in the later manual. I've cleaned the inside of the pulley several times and searched in vain. I've also looked elsewhere on the pulley cluster and I can't see an oiler anywhere. There is also no oil point on the back gear shaft below the spindle either which the later manual shows too.
Now, it'd be very nice if it didn't need oil but I doubt that of course
Any suggestions of what I should/could do please? Is this just an improvement on later machines? Is there anything I can do to stop wear/seizure etc?
There seems to be plenty of oil "swimming around" from the main headstock bearing oilers so perhaps it'll get there anyway?
Any thoughts and suggestions gratefully received
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.