Here is a list of all the postings Jon Gibbs has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Favourite Engineering quotes.|
An engineer is someone who can make for 10 cents what any fool can make for a dollar.
|Thread: Drilling stainless steel|
Cheap spear-point TCT tile drills ought to do the job.
I've drilled HSS toolbits this way but it requires plenty of pressure and coolant.
|Thread: I've bought a 7R [ Myford, not AJS ]|
As Michael says everything else on Myfords was BSF until metrication was eventually forced on them by metric coarse cap screws becoming much cheaper than BSF large head cap screws (Chapter 17 of Ian Bradley's book).
Since there's so little to choose between 2BA and 3/16 BSF, Neil's probably right that 2BA was just cheaper at the time.
|Thread: CY90 3 1/2" MITRE ARM BANDSAW WITH STAND|
Hi Rod and Neil,
Thanks very much for the recommendations and ideas/enhancements.
I have similar space challenges to you Rod and am just as frugal as you Neil so I can see I'll have to take the plunge .
Has anyone any experience of these cheap compact Warco bandsaws please?
Would you recommend it?
Any guidance gratefully received.
Edited By Jon Gibbs on 07/09/2014 20:12:33
|Thread: Computer backup|
Am I missing something? - I use the standard Microsoft Windows Backup and Restore.
It's under the Control Panel/System and Security of Windows 7.
You can schedule backups whenever you want.
|Thread: polishing spindle taper threads|
The thread Jason linked to was started by me.
I've since managed to turn a pretty reasonable pigtail mandrel using a neat little gizmo from a Hemingway Kit ...
It's made it an expensive and time consuming solution but it's very satisfying when you eventually get there.
I turned the taper and cut the thread with the same effective tailstock offset (approx 8mm) but to get a steep enough taper it was only possible to cut it on a short section of stock which was then screwed onto a mandrel with a threaded nose.
I'll try to post some pics.
|Thread: How to centre a boring bar|
Many thanks Clive - I can appreciate both the "at a distance" advantage and the elegance of the of the optical method.
I really like the perspex sighting device and can see it being useful but am I the only one who thinks the blade type is a bit superfluous?
Isn't it just as easy and quick to stick a sharp centre in the tailstock and reference off that?
What am I missing?
|Thread: Material Sourcing|
Chronos seem to be a little confused whether their rectangular bar is EN3B or EN1A
|Thread: ARC - PayPal and Credit Cards|
Thank you. I'll be more than happy to use my debit card over the phone.
Thanks, I appreciate your comments but I will still not be risking my debit card on-line as it could expose my current account.
Credit cards IMHO represent a pretty good way of ring-fencing on-line exposure and losses.
The risks are real and there are new vulnerabilities exposed every day.
Thank you for the explanation. I understand your position but it is a bit of a shame as I tend to make smaller purchases which will be penalized disproportionately and I am very reluctant to use my debit card for on-line transactions for the reasons detailed here (nothing personal to ARC)...
Are you still accepting telephone orders as that would overcome my issues with on-line debit card purchases?
|Thread: British machine tools|
It's fun to generalize and be patriotic but it's pretty futile IMHO.
There are good and bad Far East manufacturers, as John S's recent visit to China showed, and we all know that there are good and bad British manufacturers. It will always be thus.
The only generalization I think we can legitimately make is that people are the same everywhere and as such; some are conscientious and some are rip-off merchants and some are corner cutters. It is independent of country.
Another generalization could be that marketing hype is and always has been the enemy of the consumer.
|Thread: Shims for packing up cutting tools|
I like the idea of the double-sided tape but cheap feeler gauges and odd bits of flat stock for thicker shims are my parts of choice.
At £2.60 a pop and guaranteed burr-free flatness it seems a steal to me - HTH.
My biggest problem with my 4-way is that every side is a different height!
Have taken the plunge to a Dickson QCTP though. Can't wait to try it out.
|Thread: Refractory brick equivalents, but smaller and free.|
By an amazing coincidence I finally got round to trying the pieces I salvaged out of our old gas fire last night to harden a home-made half centre.
I hadn't seen your post and so wasn't sure it'd work but it did - perfectly.
|Thread: Which lathe|
As a fully paid up member of "tool-aholics" I doubt there are very many of my tool purchases - old or new that haven't been fettled/primped or tweaked and I guess many a petrol-head would find it hard to answer that analogy honestly in the negative
Upgrading to the latest and greatest whizz-bang gizmo or other is what it's about for many of us
+1 for Bede Tools in Jarrow.
I bought my ML7 through them via eBay and they shipped it to me by pallet at cost well packed and in perfect condition.
|Thread: Tapering a flywheel shaft hole|
If you mount your boring bar upside down and cut on the backside then you'll get a better fit if you're machining the shaft at the same topslide setting.
|Thread: Which is the best parting tool ?|
I'd suggest avoiding the cheap brazed tip versions as others have said. In my experience these are too wide and hard to use. So, I've gone down the HSS route and have a similar rear toolpost version to Ian T's but in HSS and I have both thin and thick parting blades for it to cater for small and big parting jobs...
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