Here is a list of all the postings Jon Gibbs has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Toolpost holders with morse tapers|
You definately need adaptors, all of the tapers are slightly different ... **LINK**
|Thread: Band saw running off true|
As Simon says this is usually down to the set having gone off one side of the blade so that the cut is biassed towards one side.
...but if it really "suddenly" started to happen then it may be that the blade guides have slipped and so George's approach is the right one?
Edited By Jon Gibbs on 24/04/2015 11:43:54
|Thread: Milling machine as a morticer?|
I think it all depends on how big the mortices are and what timber you're using.
If it's oak or anything with a lot of tannin or you are cutting a lot of 'em then by all means use your milling machine but you certainly ain't using mine Clearing up and stopping any corrosion if there's any oil in the vicinty is a real PITA.
Small mortices are almost easier and quicker cut by hand with a decent mortice chisel and a bfm (as opposed to bfh ) - no need to drill at all and, unless you get the drilling square, it can actually upset the squareness of the finished product.
Big through mortices for door stiles are much easier drilled and then squared up but concentrate on keeping the drilling spot-on to make cleaning up easier. Very few routers or cheap mortice attachments will plunge deep enough anyway to go all the way through a 4 or 6 inch stile.
Square cornered tenons have been shown to be stronger than rounded end ones. So squaring up is always better if you can.
Contrary to what's been said hide glues are still the best for furniture you want to last IMHO. So it's horses for courses. You can mend broken joints much easier with hide glues than modern ones. Just warm up the joint and it can be separated and the old glue doesn't need to got rid of entirely before the next glue-up. Try that with epoxy or PVA. They don't like being applied on top of old glue even if you've been extremely lucky and been able to disassemble a joint without knackering the original mortice.
Edited By Jon Gibbs on 20/04/2015 10:49:15
|Thread: Know nothing|
This is a pretty good place to start looking for historical details and photos to give you some idea what it's worth (quite a lot by the sound of it)...
You can then choose to list it on here in the Classifieds section, on lathe.co.uk or try to sell it via a dealer.
|Thread: HSS or Carbide?|
Depending on what you are planning to make, I'd be inclined to stick with HSS tooling if I were you.
I bought a few brazed carbide tools when I started and they now stay in a box apart from the odd times when I want to machine hardened steel or for roughing cast iron or hot rolled when one right hand knife tool does pretty much all I need.
I'd also stick with your Norman toolholder unless you fancy upgrading to a Dickson QCTP perhaps.
|Thread: Holesaws for steel|
I think you may need to keep withdrawing the holesaw to clean out the chips if drilling that deep.
I've used holesaws for cutting holes in box section steel where they work just fine but would expect to have problems with swarf clogging up the teeth pretty quickly.
|Thread: Taper turning|
Harold Hall has some good tips on setting up the cross-slide for internal tapers but for a socket you will almost always get a bitter finish with a taper-reamer to finish. **LINK**
Tracy tools have an MT0 reamer for £15. http://www.tracytools.com/straight-taper-reamers/socket-reamers
Edited By Jon Gibbs on 13/04/2015 12:57:49
|Thread: What did you do today (2015)|
I hadn't any drawings but have put this together if it's any use to you or anyone else.
Most of it was cut on the horizontal bandsaw from 12mm BMS flat using two 6mm holes at the corners and then filed/sanded to size.
To square the corners of the groove I used the honed end of the 6mm toolbit as a poor man's broach.
For the round toolbit I drilled and reamed a 6mm hole at 12 degrees back and to the side between centres with a punched reference at the tailstock end for the initial drill if that makes sense and then did the shaping around the hole afterwards.
Edited By Jon Gibbs on 09/04/2015 14:59:57
Edited By Jon Gibbs on 09/04/2015 15:04:49
Decided to check out what was so great about tangential/diamond tool holders and made a couple...
So far pretty pleased with 'em. Certainly easy to sharpen and leave a pretty reasonable finish.
|Thread: Commercial Grinding Rest|
I had the same problem as you and feared that the cheap ones would end up as Graham suggests the Veritas ones are like.
So I decided to make a pair of rests of that style myself but mine also work for woodturning gouges. I'm glad to say they're rock solid.
Much less complex than even Harold's simple rest, although not as easy to adjust for angle and presentation as HH says in his sharpening book.
Edited By Jon Gibbs on 31/03/2015 11:02:43
|Thread: Up-cycled Grinder in lieu of Cleeve Gearbox|
Ok, So this is a bit of a nutty idea.
I've just replaced my old wetstone grinder and it dawned on me that the 130 RPM drive to the 8" wet wheel might drive the gearbox directly. So, a new 5/8" drive shaft with bored out nylon bushings and gear wheel later plus a gash 20 tooth drive gear and second wheel completely amputated we have...
Plenty of power but not quite the nice 16:1 reduction of Martin's gearbox.
However it'll do as a starting point FOC.
|Thread: Allegro Razor Blade Sharpener|
My old Dad used to have a Rolls too. Natty piece of kit and I have no idea what became of it.
|Thread: What did you do today (2015)|
Toolstation do free postage on orders over £10 and next day delivery - not even worth getting the car started IMHO
|Thread: Well done Tuffsaws!|
I bought a new M42 bandsaw blade for my Warco CY90 metalcutting bandsaw about a month ago from Tuffsaws. Tuffsaws price is very competitive, with an M42 blade only a couple of quid more than the carbon steel Warco blade. Postage was next to nothing because I also bought a new M42 blade for my big woodcutting bandsaw.
The little blade cut beautifully but the other day it just broke at the weld - mid-cut. I must admit I was a little disappointed but took a couple of photos of the break and emailed Tuffsaws and what do you know?
I received a really apologetic email and a new one in the post which arrived two days later!
...One very satisfied customer
|Thread: What did you do today (2015)|
Sadly not seen them from the South Lakes because of a combination of cloud and early bedtimes
Had my welding mask ready but the best view here in Windermere was through the cloud when it thinned with the naked eye.
Quite eerily dull though.
|Thread: How to use a die?|
Aren't the percentages of Chromium very different though between Stainless and silver steel/gauge plate?
I must admit I always put the non-sharpness of HSS down to the presence of Tungsten Carbides which cannot be made very sharp due to their size.
|Thread: Screwcutting Clutch for Myford Lathes|
Thanks for the tip, I'll look into it.
Hi Emgee, Thanks for the reply - Back to the drawing board then.
Perhaps I should persevere with Martin's gear box idea.
I've been looking through the C2 lathe spares on the ArcEuro site and I think that a plastic geared version using C2 change gears and a re-purposed timing belt may be the way to go.
I have a spare 20 tooth Myford gear for the output drive to the dropped banjo.
Any thoughts on the strength of the plastic gears in this application? If I need metal gears where should they go, input train or output?
[.....any chance of getting this thread back on course?]
I really like the look of the Martin Cleeve's 15:1 reduction gearbox idea for my old ML7. I've read Martin's book and am convinced by the arguments against automatic gearboxes but without his gearbox it does make switching back to fine feeds a real pain.
Even though I admire the patience and skill of the full electrikery solution I can't help feeling it's a lot of work and a bit like plumbing a Japanese toilet into a privvy
What about a sewing machine motor and foot controller with a 20 tooth drive gear on the output in place of Martin's gearbox?
Does anyone know how slow these motors will go? **LINK**
Sad to say that for the price of the motor and foot control (£35) I'd be struggling to have bought the set of gears required for Martin's solution.
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