Here is a list of all the postings Jon Gibbs has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What did you do today (2015)|
Quite nice to hear that the IEE did something vaguely useful!
I've been a member for 33 years and all they seemed to do, at least before becoming the IET, was erect either statues of, or plaques to the memory of, Michael Faraday!
|Thread: Why reverse a lathes direction?|
You raise the obvious point but sadly it's not that straight forward.
This is precisely one reason why you'd want to reverse the motor because changing the tumbler reverse would be a bad idea when metric threading with an imperial leadscrew or vice versa. It'd be almost impossible to resynchronize the spindle and the leadscrew if the tumbler reverse is altered.
Another option though is to use a spindle driving handle to rewind the leadscrew rather than doing it under power.
|Thread: Best method of boring a bearing housing|
Well, here's the postscript. Finally managed to finish assembling the hollowing rig and here it is...
...and here's a close-up of the articulated section with the taper roller bearings....
I haven't had time to test it on some real hollowing yet which'll have to wait until I get back from a business trip but I'm pretty chuffed how it turned out.
Thanks for the guidance to get the boring done properly!
(Apologies for the clutter in the background).
Edited By Jon Gibbs on 18/08/2015 19:54:18
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Reservoir front bearing oiler information|
Ian Bradley (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Myford-Lathe-Manual-ML7-R-Super/dp/0852427751/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1439827450&sr=8-1&keywords=bradley+myford+7+series) talks about setting the oil feed on the ML7 for "maximum oil economy" which I take to mean the drips are as infrequent as can be reasonably arranged. This seems consistent with Ian T's and David's comments.
I think though that for a Super7 when operating at high RPM I'd be tempted to up the feed rate since the max RPM of the ML7 is quite a bit below that of the S7.
Edited By Jon Gibbs on 17/08/2015 17:04:35
|Thread: Pratt Burnerd chuck troubles|
I think you could do a lot worse than contacting Pratt Burnerd...
|Thread: Chester H80 Blade Snap|
I bought a 1/2" M42 blade replacement for my Warco CY90 ( I think this is basically the same model) from Tuffsaws in February and have received fantastic service from Ian at Tuffsaws; receiving not one but two replacement blades since then!
It seems that their M42 blade stock is perhaps too thick and inflexible for this saw with its tight bends and continuous flexing of the blades back and forth to achieve the necessary clearance. I have broken two M42 blades now at the weld and am now trying one of the Tuffsaw's supertuff carbon steel blades which is thinner and hence more flexible.
Ian tells me that he is trying to obtain some thinner M42 blade stock which he hopes will work better for these small saws. In the meantime it may be best to ask Ian's advice which blade he recommends for this saw rather than blindly buying an M42 blade for it like I did.
The blade is 1300 mm long and 1/2" wide.
I hope this helps
Edited By Jon Gibbs on 14/08/2015 11:44:31
|Thread: Adding NVR Switch|
DOL starters do the same job and are cheaper FWIW...
I also added one of these to my lathe as it's a latching stop button which prevents the machine being turned on until the stop button is unlatched.
|Thread: Slipping drill chuck|
+1 for Philips heads on plasterboard screws.
These depth stop versions aid the cam-out as well to prevent overdriving.
Neil's explanation was probably right originally but the problem with almost all posidriv woodscrews these days is that they are through hardened like nobodies business. It's not really necessary for 99% of applications IMHO but it certainly buggers up your bits if the driver slips and it's not harder than the screws.
I'd stick to Wera or Wiha specialist screwdriver manufacturers or Bosch who have good quality accessories too - The TiN coated ones with and without diamonds. I have used them all and they are all well formed, precise and hard.
DeWalt may also be ok but never tried them.
They aren't cheap but then that's not what you asked for.
I sympathise and have a couple of suggestions.
Drill bits with 3 flats or even hex shaft don't need the chuck to be so tight. Dewalt extreme 2 for example.
The other suggestion is to use a boa wrench to tighten the chuck...
They're a very cheap but effective non-marring way to unscrew chucks from lathe spindles.
|Thread: What did you do today (2015)|
I must admit I'd never heard of Hiduminium but as usual Wikipedia comes to the rescue... **LINK**
That'd certainly be much appreciated - thanks.
Those are very nice looking parts - As an old Myford owner I can sympathize with the Mazak pain
Looking at the new handbrake ratchet I can't help being inspired.
We have a VW campervan which has a big design fault IMHO - the driver's seat can only swivel with the handbrake off and even in gear the vehicle can roll on slopes. So you're forced to keep the d's seat facing forwards at some time or another. So, I'd love to convert the handbrake to a fly-off type mechanism where the button only operates when under tension and the lever can be pushed back down leaving the handbrake on. The Ford Wellhouse Terrier has such a fly-off h'brake.
Does anyone happen to have an idiot's guide how they work please?
|Thread: polishing in the lathe|
I guess you may be right but it says there were 6 other lathes being used at the time and it doesn't say how many other kids there were in the class at the time and what they were doing.
My guess is that the teacher has already been hung out to dry.
|Thread: Ground Flat Stock|
I make quite a few of my own woodturning tools and BMS square will do the job just fine although stainless would be nice too if you intend turning a lot of wet oak perhaps.
It just needs to take a thread if you're using inserts - no need for exotics IMHO.
|Thread: Diamond for bench grinder|
|Thread: ML7 Pulley & Pinion Gear Help Please|
Ok, thanks very much.
I was looking at this picture on the Myford website...
and seeing the hole thought there may be a corresponding one on the pulley cluster.
...but no sweat then
Sorry KWIL I'm probably being a bit dense - Do you mean there are no holes to worry about?
I had one of those 3am moments and would appreciate some advice please...
The day before yesterday my old ML7 spindle pulley was slipping on the bronze bush while drilling some big bore holes and so I spent a bit of time trawling old posts and found one which suggested just using Locktite.
So, after cleaning the muck and oil off the right hand side of the pulley cluster I dribbled some Locktite into the gap all the way round in the hope that it'd make its way into the joint and stiffen things up - and bingo it worked a treat.
...but then at 3am this morning I thought about the backgear oiling.
Did I need to do anything special to align any holes to make sure that the oil from inside the pulley can get behind the bronze bush to lubricate the spindle in back-gear before locktiting it all together?
|Thread: Machne for Turning large wooden spheres|
+1 for John's suggestion including the idea of an angle grinder with an Arbortech cutter end-on initally followed up by a turboplane blade face-on for finishing cuts.
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