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Member postings for Jon Gibbs

Here is a list of all the postings Jon Gibbs has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Stripped T bolt
20/04/2016 23:35:14
Posted by Bandersnatch on 20/04/2016 23:10:36:
Odd coincidence, Jon.

My old ML7 came with bolts from the top and t-nuts for the top slide (it's how the Myford manual shows them). It's always been a nuisance point for me because, at some point in its life someone used a slightly too-long bolt (more likely forgot the washer) and the bolt penetrated the bottom of the t-slot damaging it.

This has always prevented the t-nut sliding freely in the slot and no (reasonable) amount of stoning has ever cured it. Since I've had both cross and top-slides stripped down for the last day or two to dowel the gibs. I just decided to make a pair of t-bolts (with more clearance) so that the penetration problem wouldn't happen again.

smiley Just shows that we're all different.

...but perhaps after you've had your t-bolts a while you might see the problem.

To be fair though it's only the inboard one that is the swarf & chip magnet and then it's worse again when it's on the headstock side. I think that the older models with red knobs and rods on the half-nuts have t-bolts and nuts, whereas the cast levers have bolts and t-nuts - see


Edited By Jon Gibbs on 20/04/2016 23:43:18

20/04/2016 16:10:54

I hope I'm not teaching my Grandma here but...

My old ML7 had t-bolts and nuts but I got fed up of swarf and chips getting embedded in the exposed threads and between the nut and the thread when undone and retightened. This led to the threads getting worn and stripped very quickly.

So I swapped to a t-nut and bolt from the top which naturally stays much cleaner because the exposed thread is naturally better protected.

Not sure if this is helpful


Thread: Magnetic centroid
13/04/2016 16:18:54

Cat's eye description here... **LINK**

Thread: Cutting worms with less tpi than lead screw
13/04/2016 09:59:24
Posted by Bazyle on 12/04/2016 22:34:04:

Common solution is to set up as normal but use the leadscrew handle to provide the power. I believe the ML10 has a handle....


Do you mean a mandrel handle?

Otherwise how do you guarantee 5TPI?

[Edit: Oh, I think I see now - Doohh. Is the idea to drive the spindle from the leadscrew? - thanks]


Edited By Jon Gibbs on 13/04/2016 10:03:24

Thread: Magnetic centroid
13/04/2016 09:41:15

There is no need for the vehicle to be ferrous-based to trigger such an upside down metal detector in principle since any metal object will have eddy currents induced in it by the fluctuating magnetic field around the coil which either changes it's impedance or the magnetic effect of the eddies can be sensed by a receiving coil.

[Edit: Sorry I just saw Michael's link and it is confirmed... "The ferromagnetic effect increases loop inductance. However, vehicle-induced eddy currents decrease loop inductance even more. Therefore, net effect is decreased loop inductance when a vehicle passes through the detection zone of an inductive loop."]

My old Dad used to have a very crude metal detector in the late 70's when I was a kid and we spent all of our time digging up old drinks can tabs, which were aluminium of course and before they had to be captive.

It'd also be a pretty pointless hobby if all you could find were ferrous rusty blobs and no prospect of gold or silver coins although I don't remember us finding anything other than the drinks can tabs


Edited By Jon Gibbs on 13/04/2016 09:47:52

Thread: 'Modifications' banned
12/04/2016 14:41:40
Posted by Sam Longley 1 on 12/04/2016 12:36:54:

By coincidence I havejust had an email from the Institute of building. There is an article about the schools in question & that suggests poor construction. Missing wall ties are not a failing of the building regs. rMore likely failings in site supervision-- & that is an issue which will get worse as the standard of building staff coming into the industry gets lower each year

I think it all depends if you're someone who feels that more and more legislation and regulation is the best way to improve anything.

Sam, you obviously feel that it is, at least in the case of Building Regs, but personally, I don't.

Without proper enforcement I think that the vast majority of the new laws and regulation just become an unnecessary burden in time and money for the conscientious law-abiding citizen, who wasn't really the target in the first place, and doesn't address the underlying problem or problems. There are numerous examples.

My point earlier on in the thread is that enthusiasm for legislation and regulation is not just a failing of EU legislators but HM Government too.


12/04/2016 12:18:05

Posted by Sam Longley 1 on 12/04/2016 12:04:28:

And who is to say that they are safe --- you!!

I would also suggest that the link you show refers to a design issue not building regs issue

Sam Longley: RICS: MCIOB

I understand that the problem in Edinburgh is a lack of ties which sounds more of an execution and building regs issue to me than a design issue but I'll bow to your superior knowledge.


12/04/2016 09:27:26
Posted by modeng2000 on 12/04/2016 09:21:46:

Thinking about Part P, ...

So much for so-called proficient Part P registered electricians.


Yes, but don't worry it's registered, there is a paper-trail and it probably cost you a sight more than it would have done before Part P came into force for the same work done to the same standard wink


12/04/2016 08:50:36
Posted by Sam Longley 1 on 11/04/2016 20:02:40:
I believe that the Building regulations are an excellent set of documents. It is only wallies who get the hump about having to comply that do not like them. If I were going to purchase a home I would like to know that t was built to a certain standard & not some cobble up by some know all DIY muppet. I would also like to know that I was not living in a tinderbox that might burn or electrocute my kids. I know accidents still happen but not through fault of the building regs. They have improved standards over the years

Hmmm - They're obviously working... **LINK**

My gripe is really only with Part P. It is only this part which prevents otherwise perfectly safe work being conducted by competent but "unqualified" people.


11/04/2016 13:49:04
Posted by Mike on 11/04/2016 12:40:22:

... clueless Euro-politicians.

IMHO pretty much all politicians are clueless. A tiny proportion of them have any experience of the real world or real people's problems.

The whole EU debate centres around which band of "clueless politicians" should be in charge, or have the sovereignty over our affairs, and the various newspapers have their own favourite band of clueless politicians they can "manage" or more likely "knock" in order to sell more newspapers.

Posted by Sam Longley 1 on 11/04/2016 12:21:13:

Why do so many people run down the Daily Mail.

...because the views it espouses are considered by many to be small minded and parochial perhaps? wink

It's old but still funny...

The Times:
Read by the people who run the country.
Daily Mirror:
Read by the people who think they run the country.
Read by the people who think they ought to run the country.
Morning Star:
Read by the people who think the country ought to be run by another country.
Daily Mail:
Read by the wives of the people who own the country.
Financial Times:
Read by the people who own the country.
Daily Express:
Read by the people who think that the country ought to be run as it used to be.
Daily Telegraph:
Read by the people who think it still is.
The Sun:
Their readers don't care who runs the country as long as she has big tits.


11/04/2016 11:33:09

Of course our own domestic politicians, the folks the DM would have solely in charge one presumes, would be completely immune from coming up with such ludicrous policies

Building Regulations Part P?


Thread: Material source needed
30/03/2016 13:55:59

I'm assuming you've tried cheap plug-cutters?

This style starts very easily without wandering and they're pretty cheap.


This picture may help you to make your own if you go down that route...



Edited By Jon Gibbs on 30/03/2016 14:02:00

Thread: Low speed grinder or standard for lathe tools?
30/03/2016 10:45:24

Hi Russ,

I have a slow speed grinder and find the extra "thinking time" very useful for freehand grinding. I'm not sure the slower speed makes that much difference for jig-based grinding though really.

I do use white AlOx wheels in preference to grey carborundum wheels though, although my grinder gets used for other tools than just metalworking.



Thread: ER Collet
22/03/2016 17:02:53

+1 for Michael's comments. If you have a 4-jaw chuck you'd be much better off with a 4-sided block held in that. Your accuracy would then only be limited by your indicator precision and your patience.


22/03/2016 11:13:21
Posted by john fletcher 1 on 22/03/2016 11:04:13:

John Gibbs mentioned HH's instructions, where might I find then. Also I like Michael idea, that if John can be persuaded to make his blocks with the thread already there that would be even better and possible improve his sale .John

Here they are... **LINK**


22/03/2016 08:53:21
Posted by Ajohnw on 21/03/2016 19:26:01:
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 21/03/2016 18:08:39:
Posted by Timothy Moores on 21/03/2016 08:06:18:

If you want a cheap, short, spindle mounted ER32 collet chuck that permits stock to pass through the spindle, how does £19.00 sound? ... < etc. >


The Man's a genius star



yes I had been thinking about that since seeing them but wondered how hard the material was so might give it a go now. Also other options by mounting it on a piece of turned bar with a collet in it and machining as needed.

In terms of making an entire holder I feel it really is best to buy the nut.

I hate to pour cold water on this idea but, having made a few ER collet chucks for my lathes, the hardest part by far is getting the internal thread to fit the lathe nose with sufficient precision. The internal taper and the external thread with the embryo chuck screwed onto the nose thread are then a doddle by comparison and pretty much guaranteed to be concentric - especially if you follow HH's instructions.

+1 for buying your nuts though


Edited By Jon Gibbs on 22/03/2016 09:01:49

Thread: Ferrite rings
18/03/2016 13:19:43

You might have luck with RS here...


Good luck.


Thread: Quick Adjusting Drill Depth Stop for RF-20/25 Mill?
17/03/2016 09:18:17

Hi All,

Thanks very much for the ideas and suggestions.

I decided to follow Muzzer's recommendation in the end combined with a new M8 threaded rod. The old 1/2" one didn't leave enough space behind for the thread disengagement and spring and M8 is plenty rigid enough for a depth stop IMHO.

I haven't done anything about a scale yet but a cut-up cheap 6" steel rule glued to the front of the mill and a pointer joined to the threaded rod should be a lot more accurate than the original riveted to the threaded rod.

Many thanks again


16/03/2016 11:50:48

Does anyone have any neat ideas for a quickly adjustable drilling depth stop on a round column RF-20/25 mill please?

The 2 lock nuts on the 1/2" x 20 TPI threaded scale take an age to adjust and aren't thick enough to make into tilt-nuts. I suppose I could make two new thicker knurled tilt-nuts but if anyone has any better ideas they'd be very much appreciated please.

There is very limited space behind the threaded scale because of the quill-lock handle otherwise I had wondered about a sprung push-button lock engaging from the back onto the thread.

Many thanks in advance


Thread: Edge Finder
15/03/2016 10:38:35

It's a real shame that there has been so much criticism of the book here. I really enjoyed it and appreciate the time and effort that went into writing it. At £7 a time HH's hardly living it up on the Costa del Sol on the proceeeds I'll be bound. Incidentally I'm also a huge fan of HH's website as a go-to resource for all manner of stuff.

I'm with Neil though, and welcome project descriptions in a book such as this as a means to learn new skills and acquire new tools and tooling.

When I bought my mill I bought the two HH books on offer; "Milling a Complete Course" WPS #35 and "The Milling Machine and Accessories, Choosing and Using" WPS #49.

The newer book #49 is more up to date and glossier. It is also a more a "How to" guide with fewer projects which may appeal to the "non-projecters" whereas #35 has more projects as the OP says. So, I'd suggest buying the book you think matches your style best but unless you can and are prepared to write a better one then... .


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