Here is a list of all the postings Bob Stevenson has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: The romance of silver and gold|
Yes, but as I recall, the Spaniards werent particularly grateful even as they carted it all away!
|Thread: Increasing Friction??|
The way I get around this is to use a curved slot and a locking screw....not really 'orology', and not really engineering either but it works and you can be reasonably sure it will stay as set.
|Thread: Machining Brass|
Being a clockmaker I keep separate tools for brass with zero top rake.......some people say it’s not important, it is for me.
|Thread: Another watchmakers lathe|
The knurled ring looks like a spindle locking ring....you can see a similar item in the pic of your headstock (with green drive belt) immediately in front of the cone pulley. Alternatively, it might be for holding/locking the tailstock spindle when the sensitive drilling attachment is removed.
The slide item looks to be possibly home adapted from a milling slide....it's not going to be too useful in use and most/many watchmakers lathe compounds have 'T' slots in the top of the slide which aid quick mounting and manipulation of tool holders. Also, slide and mount don't look either parallel or well done to me...if that's a tool holder to far left then you will hae some fun getting sensible use from it in a watchmaking scenario...
Going back to headstock shot;....the placing of the index plate is quite unusual and I can't think of a make of lathe that uses it...perhaps the whole collection is someones 'lash-up' or shed project.
A good source of info about the world of watchmakers lathes is 'The Watchmakers Lathe' by Donald D'Carle...it was first published about 1950 and is still published in about it's 25th edition. it has been steadily updated but even the early copies are a major source of info about these old lathes with most makes listed and drawings of all the bits and pieces.
The black/brass "poles" are parts of the overhead pulley drive,...but the other parts you mention I can't actually see on my screen as there does not seem to be any pix....might just be my screen 'tho! Could we have a look at the "knurled ring with grub screws" and also the "might be a cross slide but might not"
As regards collets for watchmakers lathes, near enough is not good enough unfortunately,....they have to be the exact fit for a particular lathe....a 6mm fit on a Lorch won't usually actually fit a 6mm lathe from another maker even though they look identical to quick comparison.
On the face of it 'jerryrigeverything' is just a YouTube channel where this young American bloke smashes up smart phones to see how well or how badly they are made. I discovered it by accident when I put the model number of my wife's smart phone into 'the tube' to look up some details. What I found is a gold nugget hidden in the dross of the internet, and many people here would like it very much.
On the web there are lots of people making too much noise for what they say and, very rarely, there's someone who speaks softly and you want to hear every word!.....Zack Nelson is one of these. As well as smashing up iPhones he has also spent 2020 on some excellent projects that are more interesting to us here, like digi-printing a giant statue of himself in concrete, helping to found a school in Africa, supplying flat screen TV's to American schools, supplying much needed crtique to the smart phone industry, marrying a paraplegic woman and making a sequence of off road bikes for her and aiding her attempts to be as normal as possible from building a lift in their living room to a raised garden full of vegetables.......Also made his wedding ring from a section of her old wheelchair inlaid with gold A nice helping of compulsive viewing!
All of Zack's exploits are delivered with a soft voice laced with a dry and pithy humour and it's only a matter of time until he is snapped up by a TV production company or mainline American studio or even US political influencers, so take a look while he is still there!
Please not that Zack has another channel where he also makes and adapts stuff including vehicles and buildings etc.
|Thread: Angle grinder cut off stand|
I don’t know how it compares with a cut off saw, but mine was eight quid from Aldi and is very easy to store in my ‘micro workshop’ as it takes up very little space........I use 1mm discs for stainless and the cut finish, even on harder steels is excellent.
|Thread: The Repair Shop is getting to me...|
All the 'clockies' in my horology club are quite irritated by 'Repair Shop' now as they have to fend off friends and neighbours who have watched the sob stories and suddenly remember their own sob stories in relation to that clock in the loft that has not ticked in several decades but which they can't get rid of...... My own approach to neighbour women with the Smiths "last link with my Grandparents, but I don't have money for repairs" request is to explain that taking it apart will be the work of several hours!....When they finally ask; "what should I do with it" I usually say "Oh just drop it in the dust bin"......
I do really enjoy YouTube now!...does anyone look at 'jerryrigeverything'?
|Thread: Cleaning Brass?|
Ian,....Be aware that even the 'safe' citric acid will make brass pink quite quickly and for that reason I now rarely use it....pinkness is caused by the acid removing the top microns of zinc unevenly and thus making the copper visible.
Actually, cleaning a dis assembled clock is a collection of separate tasks, and thus, a collection of methods being both 'wet', 'dry' & mechnical in character.........If you have no 'previous' in this may I suggest the following?.......
Buy some Horogrene in a sample pack from one of the online clock/watch supply houses such as Cousins.......Horogrene is the modern friendly equivalent of the older ammonia based fluids and works just as well if not quite as quickly. The sample pack contains three botttles for removing old laqueur, deep dirt and old lubricants etc. Once you have cleaned the bits to your satisfaction move on to.......
Buy some FINE wire wool...the best is that made by Liberon as '0000'....it is 'spun' in one direction, needs to be kept very clean in it's back and only carefully removed to cut of a piece with scissors. This stuff is brilliant and will quickly put a lovely finish on the bits but be sure to keep the main stock CLEAN and constantly renew the piece being used as ANY foreign bodies will instantly spoil the finish.
Finally, use a small polising mop on your Dremel type tool to clean any small details...you can usefully use T-Cut car body compound with this to enhance the details etc
.....Now you have to re-lubricate and reassenble the clock which is another set of challenges best left for another post!....Hope this helps!
|Thread: Chester DB8|
If Chester can’t supply this info then they don’t deserve to do any business!
Look at the corresponding Waco.......WM210 probably? And see whAt that uses.
|Thread: Removing soft solder from brass before silver soldering|
I usually heat the part and while the solder is molten I wipe with wire wool to remove as much as possible.
|Thread: Seen It All Now - Bah Humbug|
.....So which ugly mug on that 'Wanted List' is the erstwhile Bayzle?
|Thread: Christmas Disasters!|
I don't really 'do' Christmas....all the bad stuff in my life seems to have been at Christmas.
One I can't forget was nearly 50 years back when I was in my early 20's and my mother (my only relative) was a patient in StBarts Hosp. in London.......they told me the day before Christmas Eve that they were'nt sure, but they thought that she would not suvive the cancer that they had found (she did'nt!)....they had done tests but the labs were all shut until after new years day..... Christmas on my own stated with some orange squash flavoured with brandy but by boxing day it was brandhy flavoured with orange squash.....no food other than the odd biscuit...... Rarely drink booze now!
John,.....No, council officers and managers are NOT "voted" in by anybody and exert massive power over the elected councilors,..at least in the local authority where I live.
Going back to Grenfell.....I see that the head of the company that supplied the dogey panels still won't talk to the enquiry and, get this!....is a part time fire chief somewhere in France!!?
|Thread: Cheap Ultrasonic Cleaners|
I have a small ultrasonic cleaner with a four inch (or so) bath...it was twelve quid about ten years back and works surprisingly well on small items and parts including my wifes rings and jewellery, my pocket knife once a year, small screws and fittings for clocks, bits of camera shutters and lumps of brass musical instruments (brilliant for cleaning the valves)
It's definately NOT 'ultrasonic',...in fact well subsonic! it's really better described as a 'vibration cleaner' but works well enough to be handy as described. It's worth remembering that the vibration of cleaners is aided/hindered by how the machine is mounted or supported...in industrial settings ultrasonic cleaners are often mounted in a concrete block to enhance the vibrations. With my little cleaner I often put a heavy book on top to reduce surface movement and this aids cleaning a lot.
|Thread: Oil proof brush?|
I'm with David on this........you need a natural fibres brush. Most modern (cheap) brushes are made of synthetic 'bristles' similar to nylon and this is easiy corrupted by oil. In the workshop at EFHC we have had repeated problems with this and even the floor brooms are now natural bristle fr this reason......we have some of those made in Nepal from natural (pig?) bristles,...they are a distinctive yellow with an orange band both ends and are excellent.
If you find a source of small natural bristle brushes then stock up with plenty as they are very handy in the workshop.....I use then for removing swarf an applying cutting fluid on the lathe but clean ones get used for many uses from the odd glueing job to applying meths and touching up paint etc.
|Thread: Flexispeed fixed steady|
Geoff,...It's going to be a long wait probably to find the real Flexi steadies, and for a collector important. However, if you actualy want to use the Flexi to make stuff, then the steadies are not actually essential and there are many other ways of steadying the work........watchmakers make up their own tiny steadies and if you take a look at 'The Amateurs Lathe' by L.H. Sparey you will find directions for making quick and quite adequate steadies for specific jobs etc. Nothing that you are likely going to fit onto a Flexi requires a big or highly engineered steady...one of the benefits of a small precision lathe like a Flexi.
|Thread: Polishing Delrin|
I get good results with spare bits of carpet....I have some off cuts from laying carpet and use them on the acetates but three methods, namely, rub the plastic part on the carpet piece,...or, apply directly to parts i nthe lathe,..or, just work the carpet piece against the part while it's in vice or hand.
......Only thing is, don't use used carpet pieces because they are contaminated with grit and other foreign bodies that score the plastic.
|Thread: Meteror II Screw cutting lathe|
I've missed the connection there,....Who is John Carruthers?
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