Here is a list of all the postings derek hall 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Driving Small Taps|
I built and use the GHT pillar tool. Fantastic bit of kit and superb design.does anything from 12ba taps
|Thread: The cultural status of engineers in the UK|
Re my early spelling mistake "latheing"..........if you think that is bad you should see my writing.....and we all know that doctors and engineers have the poorest handwriting! I am sure we can all agree on that
Regards to all....
Where I work we employed a fresh graduate out of uni with a degree in electronics. He told us almost all of the electronics work that he did was simulated circuits designed on a PC. At no stage did he ever build any of these circuits. In addition he also said that most electronics is software programming pic chips.
My nephew is doing a degree in aerospace engineering now in his second year of 3 year degree. Not even been in a workshop to make or test anything yet, because he doesnt need to I guess, it's all CAD.
I recognise that engineering is a broad umbrella, it's the word "engineer" that is used by anyone now.
I have no degree, left school with nothing but apprentice trained and HND + HND and after a lot of hard work I am recognised by the engineering council as an IEng. But I recognise that there are much more brainy engineers than me that can design stuff and innovate.
Can I just throw something into the discussion? Regarding the "wobbly bridge" in London some years ago now, apparently designed by an architect not an engineer. An engineer had to modify it stop wobbling...
I agree with lots on here, this subject raises its head many times and not just on this forum but also in the engineering institutes as well.
We need to just get on with the fantastic new word I learnt on the forum......"latheing"! and stop worrying about the word engineer....
A graduate engineer can work out the square root of a jar of pickles, but unfortunately can't get the lid off......
|Thread: Myford Super 7b lead screw end float|
Hi I have fitted the Hemmingway kit some years ago and it was a fairly straightforward conversion and it is an improvement on the original design.
One of my main gripes is studs that have a foot long of thread poking out the nut.
You see a lot of this in modern construction, an example of this is when stuck in traffic on a motorway with nothing to do and looking at the way the overhead gantries are secured to the concrete mounting blocks.
I haven't got a photo, other drivers stuck in the traffic alongside me might wonder what the hell I am I taking a photo of !
|Thread: Installation of a Myford (or any machine tool)|
Due to a lack of foresight when I installed my Myford I made a mistake that I now want to correct.
My workshop floor is concrete and I then found a piece of thick kitchen worktop that I then placed on the concrete and then bolted the lathe cabinet through this worktop into the concrete.
I then levelled the lathe as normal.
However over the years cutting oil (suds) has ended up on this worktop which mainly consists of crushed Weetabix with a hard pretend wood finish (you know what I mean!). This has obviously penetrated into the chipboard/weetabix and its now got got wet and has started to crumble and degrade.
So what is the solution?, I propose to lift the lathe and cabinet, remove the old "wooden" pad and either bolt the lathe cabinet direct to the concrete floor (losing about 2 inches of height - which I would rather not as I am 6ft tall and prefer the increased height) or possibly looking at another method such as interposing proper anti-vibration machine mounts or is this overkill?
Any other advice would be welcome as this must be a very common situation when installing a machine tool...
Regards to all
|Thread: Lathe chuck guards - how many folk use them?|
Did my apprenticeship 194 to 1978, it was drummed into me in the early years about leaving a chuck key in the lathe chuck. In addition also when using a face plate make sure that all clamps are tight and revolve the chuck or face plate first before applying power.
One apprentice forgot to tighten some clamps on the face plate and the clamp was thrown up and took a great chunk out of the workshop ceiling...
I have never left a chuck key in a chuck, work safely and don't take short cuts, most of us are working alone in our workshops and help maybe along time coming.
|Thread: New Member from Suffolk England|
I also live in Suffolk.... just over the Cambs/Suffolk border between Newmarket and Bury St Edmunds
|Thread: Old model engineer volumes|
On Saleroom auction site today over 200 bound volumes of ME dating from 1902 sold for the ridiculously low price of £45...!
Mind you, you will need an extra room to house them all in.
BTW how far back do the digital archives go back?
|Thread: What is it- may be waterways ?|
Yes BWB would be British Waterways Board. It may have been attached to a wooden balance beam of a lock gate as BWB used to make and repair them in their workshops.
|Thread: Buying a Lathe, as always the age old questions...|
I have a Myford S7 with gearbox, imperial and no powered cross slide circa 1962/3 (I don't really miss not having power cross feed to be honest). I bought it second hand ages ago. Its a dated design granted, but if it was good enough for T D Walshaw (aka Tubal Cain) and George Thomas (and others), it was good enough for me.
Plus there were loads of articles in the ME on building gadgets for it - head stock dividing attachments etc etc. I did without a vertical mill for years (young family+priorities = no money).
I am sure old Boxfords and Harrison lathes are cheaper and maybe better, but for a small lathe the Myford works well for me, but of course it depends on what you want to build.......but make sure that you give ANY future used machine tool a thorough inspection and observe it under power. There are others on here who can advise you much more on this issue.
|Thread: Surplus subjects learnt at school.|
Wow, a lot of clever people on here, Grammer school?!....wow
I failed the 11 plus, went to a bog standard secondary modern skool, Latin, Greek?.....no. I took 7 CSE's and failed the lot. I loved metalwork and woodwork generally due to the good teachers (thanks you Mr Salmon and Mr Waters).
Hated school, could not wait to leave, did an apprenticeship in a shipyard as a marine engineer this led on to other jobs and ironically a further total of 12 years at technical colleges doing further engineering study in first mechanical stuff and then electronic things.....I much enjoyed technical college, better learning environment for me I suppose - I guess I was a late developer...
Regards to all
|Thread: Remembering Apollo 11|
I was 11, and was one of those who stayed up till the early hours (was it around 4am UK time?) to watch, on an ancient black and white TV, Armstrong step out on the the moon surface.....It did seem ages to wait after the landing until they decided to get out though.
What I don't recall is watching the launch, although I followed all the space stuff during the early 70's. Including rushing home from school to catch up on the latest news!
One other thing can you imagine the frustration of this event being behind a pay wall/pay for view i.e. sky, and not being able to witness live this massive event in human history?
|Thread: Different ways of boring a hole|
I have used between centres boring bars from boring out 30 inch diameter holes on the stern frames of ships, to holes less than an inch diameter on my little Myford lathe.
Between centres boring is easy, and accurate, but it does take a while and the hardest part is to set the job up to the lathe centre height and also clamp the job securely without distorting the cross slide or the job.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
This weekend I have been boring.......boring the two castings LH and RH for the Quorn I am making.
BTW in another thread regarding boring holes, I had no problems at all in managing to bore 4 off 1 inch dia holes within a thou of nominal diameter and two pairs of these holes at 3.5 inches +/- 0.000 apart on my old circa 1962/3 Myford.
It took a couple of days though and I had to put up with "jokes" from my other half about me boring.....sigh...
I used a between centres boring bar made from a kit from Hemingway Tools.
|Thread: Timesaver - which grades?|
Hi, I am using the GHT cotter method. It worked fine on the dividing head, and UPT.
For the front bar of the Quorn, the fit between front bar and bore has to be a little more.....shall we say "slidey" without shake but not "tightey"
Hi, perfect timing for this question. I was going to post the exact same thing!
I am currently building a Quorn and having bored out the LH and RH casting, the front bar calls for a "sliding fit" between these cast iron holes and the front steel bars. I did some research and it does seem that "Timesaver" seemed to be the right stuff.
I need to take off the last thou (ish) to get this desired fit.
It looks expensive though but I am told little goes a long way. It does seem that the compound does break down completely. Do not under any circumstances use emery or grinding paste as this will embed into the cast iron and the cast iron bore now becomes an external lap!
I also considered one of those 3 legged brake cylinder hone.
Going to try and use medium and fine as suggested. My local stockist has it in kits - comes in 4 grade, coarse medium, fine and extra fine.
|Thread: Slitting saw arbour|
Hi Dave, I like those arbours you made.
Are you relying on the clamping action to hold the saw in place or do you use a key way to engage in the saw?
I always feel that if the keyway is used than it will be goodbye saw if it gets stuck in a slot.. Instead if the two clamps are used to retain the saw as in your arbour, in the event of the saw gutting stuck then it "may" not be the end of the saw.
A bought a small slitting saw arbour, and it was rubbish, I will copy yours....if you don't mind !
|Thread: What do YOU call it?|
Don't forget the subtle scent of cutting oil..
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