Here is a list of all the postings Nick Hughes has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: MT2 or ISO30|
I have a full set of these NT/ISO30 Collets
They have come in handy a few times on my Syil X5
|Thread: Fixed steady use|
|Thread: Worm and Wheel manufacture|
If yoiu decide not to do it yourself, have a look in the HPC Gears Catalogue under "Worms and Wheels" here:- **LINK**
They list both MOD and DP
|Thread: Recent conversions of Warco WM18 to CNC?|
There is a company in America that produce a Kit of the mechanical parts for a similar milling machine (The GRIZZLY G0704), that might be worth a look as they have instuctions on the fittting of the kit, on this page:- **LINK**
Also a lot of information on converting the G0704 around and so probably best serching for this machine, as well as the Warco WM 18.
Edited By Nick Hughes on 30/06/2019 19:33:53
|Thread: broken myford changewheel|
Rather than turing a gear down, use the slotted spacer (A2604) that is used in the gear train.
|Thread: Myford mystery hole|
It's for mounting part of the Myford coolant system.
The bottom bracket on this assembly:-
Edited By Nick Hughes on 27/06/2019 19:32:37
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Top Slide Base - Alternatives?|
The Dutch "MyfordSolutions" have the base (A2076) listed:- MyfordSolutions
|Thread: Total cost + import for Tormach PCNC 440, and alternatives?|
Based on my personal experience of a Syil X5 Plus, I would recommend that you keep away from them.
The factory QC was non existant as you can see here (The Saddle fitted to my X5)
This was replaced eventualy (took over 6 months), but I had to buy a precision granite square, to check and set the X-Y axis geometry and am now in the middle of stripping the Z axis, to correct the fore-aft lean in the column.
The final problem is the lack of support, not from the UK agent (they appear to have the same problems getting parts from China), but Syil in China. I am still waiting after 2 plus years for a replacement board, that was faulty from the start and even after trying to buy a replacement directly from China and getting a price off them, they stopped responding to my emails.
|Thread: Upside down reverse threading|
No problem with the Myford screwed on chuck when I did it:-
Edited By Nick Hughes on 11/05/2019 16:50:29
|Thread: Bore micrometer|
If it helps, there is an example of use in my Hemingway Dynamic Toolpost Grinder thread here:- **LINK**
(Scroll down to around the 13th photo)
Edited By Nick Hughes on 10/05/2019 11:53:06
|Thread: New Toy|
I hope the X7 is built better than my P.O.S X5 Plus.
I had to strip the X5 down completely to correct the geometry errors built in due to non existant QC at the factory!
An example here, is the Saddle. Note the top edge grinding for the X axis alignment!
No wonder I couldn't produce anything with 90 Deg corners!! This was replaced eventualy by Syil.
I only found this (and the other alignment faults) after checking the machine with a calibrated Granite Square from work.
Also I hope you have more luck dealing with Syil (Including Syil China directly), if you need any replacement parts, than I have (not for the saddle, although that was a battle, but I have tried and failed to buy some replacement electronic boards).
Edited By Nick Hughes on 28/03/2019 12:24:09
|Thread: Removing large flange nuts|
For my M/Cycle clutch basket that had the same nut and was both tight and recessed, I modified the end of a socket to fit the slots and used an air impact wrench to undo.
|Thread: 15mm and 7/16" diameter HSS tool steel bar|
Try searching for HSS Drill Blanks. Both sizes (the 7/16" is listed as 11.113mm) in the drop down list here:-
Edited By Nick Hughes on 09/03/2019 17:57:43
|Thread: Machining cork!|
Have a look here
(Also lists Silicone and Neoprene rubber versions)
Edited By Nick Hughes on 04/03/2019 20:14:00
|Thread: Hemingway Dynamic Toolpost Grinder|
At last the Final installment:-
The two Internal Grinding Extensions both start out as 3/4" Dia FCMS. The Spindle mounting bore and threads are machined in the same way as the Spindle Drive Pulley previously,
To ensure true running of the extensions when mounted on the grinding spindle, a copy of the spindle end is machined,
Each extension is now fitted to the above, finish turned (with tailstock support), then drilled, tapped, bored and reamed,
Apart from painting, that's it complete!
Thanks for all the kind comments and hopefully the photos will help others with ideas for various setups.
Edited By Nick Hughes on 04/03/2019 19:05:49
Fridays job was the Bearing Spacer Tubes. Staight forward turning, the outer from 1 3/8" Dia and the inner from 3/4" Dia FCMS:-
The outer first. Faced centred and rough turned,
Then the undercuts,
Bored to finish size and finish turned,
Parted off, reversed in the chuck, faced to length and the edges lightly chamfered,
The inner spacer is simply a tube, turned using the same sequence as above. The only difference was that the bore was reamed to size after semi finish boring,
Today was on to the Wheel Flanges and the Bearing/Spindle Retaining Ring:-
Once again straight forward turning for the wheel flanges, one plain reamed bore and one tapped.
Turned, bored, counterbored, reamed or tapped, then parted off from the stock and set aside, until after the Retaining Ring,
The remaining stock had a chucking piece turned on it, to make holding in the chuck to make the Retaining Ring easier,
After turning, forming an undercut to below core dia and boring, the outside was screwcut to fit the Spindle Housing.
Still waiting a month after ordering, for the external threading insert, I decided to use the internal tool and insert!
Done by inverting the internal tool, running the spindle in reverse and cutting the thread away from the cuck (starting from in the undercut),
Using a Full Form insert that also cuts the thread crest, it's easier to start with a slightly oversize blank Dia and sneek up on the final size/fit,
After parting off, I bored some soft jaws to hold this ring and the wheel flanges for facing to width and chamfering,
The soft jaws also came in handy when setting up on the miller, to drill the tightening holes (The bore was aligned by "clocking in" and holes placed as with previous items),
All the Turned Spindle parts,
Finally the complete Spindle Unit,
Apart from a bit of fettling and painting of the castings, that completes the main grinder.
The next and probably final installment, will be machining the internal grinding extensions.
Edited By Nick Hughes on 23/02/2019 15:39:52
Thanks to everyone for the encouraging comments.
The spindle drive pulley starts out as a 2 1/4" length of 1" Dia free cutting mild steel bar and when finished, must run as true as possible:-
To start, the bar is rough turned to 0.020"/0.5mm above the belt groove flange finished Dia, far enough along to enable access with the tooling, when the bar is reversed in the chuck, to rough and finish the full pulley form, without removing from the chuck. Doing this should ensure the minimum of runout,
Reversed in the chuck and because I had no LH turning tools available, I inverted the tool and ran the lathe in reverse. Taking it steady with the depth of cut, there was no hint of the chuck unscrewing!
Again I left 0.020"/0.5mm on all dia and 0.010"/0.25mm on all faces for finish turning, after completing the bore,
After rough turning the outside, the bore is drilled through tapping size, then bored and reamed for the plain locating bore portion and then tapped. Final boring op was to cut the 30 Deg chamfer on the bore, ready for the centre used when finish turning the outeside and forming the belt groove,
All finished but resisting temptation to part off from the chucking stock, As you'll see, leaving it on the stock makes the following operation a lot easier,
The chucking stock is now used to hold the pulley for drilling a 4mm cross hole, used to tighten it on the spindle.
Held in a V block, clamped to the machine table and the V block aligned with the X axis,
Then to make finding the centre easier, I screwed in the spindle and pitched over to the centre from that,
After removing the spindle, I "wobbled" the pulley face, moved to the hole position and after centre drilling, used a 4mm ball nose cutter to start the hole (I find a ball nose cutter after center drilling, works better than using a normal flat face cutter)
Follwed by drilling through,
Back in the lathe and part off from the stock,
Reverse in the chuck, face to length and chamfer the thread,
Final de-burr and it's done!
Next will be the two Spacer Tubes.
Edited By Nick Hughes on 21/02/2019 21:29:10
The raw matereal for the spindle is 1" Dia and will not fit up the Myford spindle, so in order to face and centre both ends, ready for finish turning between centres, I used the fixed steady:-
Clocking a short piece of 1" Dia stock (only had brass), to check it is running true. If I had a slightly larger Dia piece, I would have used that and turned it down to 1" to ensure true running,
Then clamped the Steady to the bed and set the pads to this,
After setting the pads, slid the steady along the bed and re-clamped, loaded the spindle stock to the chuck, then faced and centred the first end, reversed in the chuck, parted off, faced to finished overall length and centred,
With support now available from the tailstok and Revolving Centre, the spindle is roughed out,
Preparing to finish turn between centres, starts with truing up the spindle "live" centre (this should be done each time the centre is re-fitted to the spindle and is why they are soft),
Then the revolving tailstock centre is replaced with a carbide tipped "dead" centre,
The spindle is now semi finished turned and during this, the tailstock alignment adjusted, in order to produce a parallel shaft. Then finished to the drawing specified 12mm "close sliding" fit for the ball races and the smaller 0.375" Dia for both the drive pulley location and thread,
Reversed and the shorter "Wheel" end finish turned,
The tailstock centre is now changed for a Half Centre, to provide enough clearance for the screwcutting tool and both ends screwcut 3/8" x 24 UNF (should be 3/8" x 20 BSF, but I already had the UNF threading inserts and taps)
This final op, was drilling and tapping the end M5, as I had forgotten to do this whilst facing and centering the ends. Held in the ER spindle nose collet chuck, to prevent damaging the previously finished turned Dia,
The next thrilling installment, will be the Spindle Drive Pulley!
Edited By Nick Hughes on 20/02/2019 19:24:05
This morning was Large Motor Pulley (For when internal grinding) time:-
A straight forward facing, turning, boring and reaming job.
Face aprox half the total stock, off what will be the back face,
After centre drilling for tailstock support, turned the O.D. to size and formed the belt groove. Followed by drilling, boring and reaming.
Then held in the 4 jaw and clocked true, faced to width, finish turned/faced the boss and recess,
On to broaching the 4mm keyway (Also did the smaller pulley machined earlier),
Always a relief when it fits,
Final job was to set the pulley up on the mill, and drill two 9.5mm holes, for access to the motor mounting bolts during belt tensioning.
Clock/Align to the spindle (Rotating the DTI around the boss) and set both X and Y to Zero, either on the machine dials (But remember the direction you approached the Zero point, so that you can allow for any baclash when pitching over to drill one of the holes), or on the DRO (no need to worry about backlash with a DRO)
And then simply pitched over both directioins in X, to Centre drill and then drill through,
That completes all the castings and so tomorrow (hangover permitting again) will be the Spindle.
Edited By Nick Hughes on 16/02/2019 16:24:21
Last weeks mission was the Cup Wheel guard and motor pulley:-
The single casting supplied makes the inner guard, outer guard and a small motor pulley.
Centred and rough turn the pulley
After boring and reaming, the belt grooves are cut (yes I do use HSS sometimes),
Then part off the motor pulley and reverse the casting in the chuck, to bore the outer guard,
Part off the bored outer cover and the remaining casting produces the inner guard,
The inner guard casting is turned to a sliding fit in the outer cover, faced to length and then parted off the chucking piece,
Setup the inner guard in the dividing head, to drill and tap the two outer cover clamping screw holes,
Then the outer sliding cover slots,
Checking the alignment before taking the outer guard off the dividing head, just in case there was some "adjustment" required to the slots.
The cutouts and mounting holes are then done in the same way as the previous External 3" wheel guards,
Lining up the cover for the rotary Zero degree starting point (after clocking the cover in to the rotary table and spindle) for the cutout. The inner guard was lined up in the same way,
Just the screws to shorten and then a radus to file on the open ends,
The final casting provided is for the Large motor pulley, but that will have to wait until next weekend.
Edited By Nick Hughes on 10/02/2019 13:24:49
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.