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Member postings for Redsetter

Here is a list of all the postings Redsetter has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: ML10 Headstock mounts
17/10/2021 07:09:24
Posted by Engine Builder on 16/10/2021 20:03:31:

You could easily make a replacement, you have one to copy.

I totally agree. It's just a bit of flat bar basically, and not all of the dimensions are critical. A good first project!

Thread: joy valve gear (Derby 4f)
12/09/2021 10:06:40

OP- Removing the anchor link effectively disconnects the valve gear, so I am not sure that proves anything. Does the valve/valve spindle move freely over its designed travel?

Thread: I need to cut chamfers into x64 pieces of mild steel - any advice?
06/09/2021 20:27:37

OP, people on here are doing their best to advise you.

Several useful ideas have been suggested. Without knowing more about the design, or the purpose of the parts, it is difficult to be more constructive. It does seem that in your circumstances it would be best to outsource the job, then you can move on to the next stage of your project. It is not clear why you won't do so.

We are a helpful bunch by nature, but we all have busy lives and projects of our own. Please don't waste our time.

Thread: Electric motor speed
04/09/2021 22:07:15
Posted by KEITH BEAUMONT on 04/09/2021 21:52:30:

Redsetter,

I did say it was a Brushed motor/

Mikelkie,

In what way does a Universal motor differ from a brushed mains type?

Keith

Yes I heard you the first time that is why I replied as I did! A universal motor is another name for a brushed mains motor. An induction motor is a totally different thing.

04/09/2021 21:41:01

Put simply, if it is an induction motor the speed depends on the mains frequency and the number of poles, but a brushed motor does not work that way.

Thread: Replacing a bushing
03/09/2021 07:02:30

Quite possibly an Imperial size, as posted above. There is still a lot of Imperial stuff in use, even in new machinery. I would suggest going to a bearing factor with a trade counter, who can measure it properly and will know the market, rather than trying to do it on line.

Thread: BR Leader class Steam engine
14/08/2021 10:37:31

For those interested - required reading on the Leader Class starts with a good general account in "Bulleid - Last Giant of Steam" by Sean Day-Lewis, a very readable biography. More information, and perhaps more technical detail in "Bulleid of the Southern" by H.A.V. Bulleid, the great man's son and also an engineer.

Then there are several editions of Kevin Robertson's "Leader - Steam's Last Chance" which is a comprehensive account with many interesting photos, especially of the construction phase. Robertson's research is very good but perhaps understandably, he does not have the technical knowledge to analyse the subject in depth. .

See also - "Bulleid and the Turf Burner" by Ernie Shepherd which details the "Irish Leader" which is a subject in itself, and seems to have worked rather better.

13/08/2021 14:40:57
Posted by Redsetter on 13/08/2021 12:07:14:
Posted by Greensands on 13/08/2021 10:45:47:

To resurrect an old posting I notice that Kevin Robertson' book on the Leader project refers to the action of the oscillating gear in action as resembling that of a figure of eight. Was this action ever filmed and if so is the film still available for viewing? Have not had any success when trying to Google the subject.

Yes, there is a short film which was available on youtube fairly recently. No idea whether it is still there, but it is absolutely fascinating and well worth searching for.

I have just had a trawl through youtube and it seems the video is unavailable. Possibly the Bulleid Society may have access to it? I'd like to see it again.

13/08/2021 12:07:14
Posted by Greensands on 13/08/2021 10:45:47:

To resurrect an old posting I notice that Kevin Robertson' book on the Leader project refers to the action of the oscillating gear in action as resembling that of a figure of eight. Was this action ever filmed and if so is the film still available for viewing? Have not had any success when trying to Google the subject.

Yes, there is a short film which was available on youtube fairly recently. No idea whether it is still there, but it is absolutely fascinating and well worth searching for.

Thread: Corbetts Little Jim Lathe restoration - newbie needs advice
02/08/2021 16:14:55

OP- Your work on this lathe so far has been first class, but I think you should just make a few things on it, see how they turn out, and learn to use the tools before you worry too much about the bearings.

I don't think Oilite bearings are appropriate. The lathe is not designed for them. They are not meant to fit in split housings, and you are not supposed to scrape or ream them - or split them - to fit.

The Oilite bearing in your link has an OD of 1 5/8", so 3/16" wall thickness. Your existing bearings look thicker than that. Even if you find one which will fit straight in, it is unlikely to be much more accurate than what you have already, given the wear on the spindle.

Realistically, you do not yet have the skills or equipment (i.e. another very accurate lathe) to machine new bearings from scratch, so stick with what you have.

If your measurement of 10 thou play is accurate, then the bearings can probably be nipped up to reduce that. They have probably never been adjusted before, and the bearing caps look a lot stronger than on many lathes of that era, so you will very likely get away with a fraction of a turn on each clamp screw. It won't need much.

Just my opinion.

 

 

Edited By Redsetter on 02/08/2021 16:18:34

22/07/2021 19:00:02

The countershaft looks very practical, and you will probably think of refinements as you go along.

The 56 to 618 speed range is probably the more useful of the two options but it is not super-critical and depends a bit what work you are doing. With the 84 to 841 range you may find that you have to change into back gear rather often in normal use, which is a nuisance. It should be possible to get a wider range with different pulleys, e.g. ML10 has 280-490-840 in direct drive, and 48-85-145 in back gear. But see how you get on.

Yes, you can crack the headstock bearing castings if you overtighten them, so you are right to be cautious, and the bearings themselves don't look too bad so I would leave them alone for now - there is no guarantee that current standard sizes will fit. If it ain't broke don't fix it, and the main thing is to get it all working at this stage.

Good work on the cross slide.  It is worth adding some sort of dial if you can, so that you know where the cut has got to.  The tailstock clamp again looks fine to start with, perhaps an improvement would be a captive stud as it is convenient to be able to adjust it with one spanner.

Edited By Redsetter on 22/07/2021 19:06:18

Edited By Redsetter on 22/07/2021 19:15:41

Thread: Chinese drip feed oilers
11/07/2021 08:59:02

Frankly, I don't think they are worth the trouble on a small lathe in intermittent use. They are just a distraction from making things, and you have to remember to turn them off when you finish. I have had two plain-bearing lathes with simple oil cups with wick feeds, and it is no bother to top these up with an oilcan as required.

10/07/2021 22:49:02
Posted by James Tregaskis on 10/07/2021 15:30:00:

Hi Howard thanks for your reply,

yes of course you take a chance with Chinese products especially with the six weeks or thereabouts wait for them…

I was rather hoping for a reply from someone who has bought them so they can give him objective answer?

I bought some of these, several years ago so they may not represent current production. They were reasonably well made but very unwilling to drip - it was all or nothing - because the needle valve was not tapered finely enough, so a bit of modification was needed.

There was an article in ME or MEW, in about 2015 covering this, with calculations for the correct taper. Hope this helps, and sorry I have no further details.

Thread: Corbetts Little Jim Lathe restoration - newbie needs advice
07/07/2021 19:54:51

I am thinking that a Myford ML7 feed screw and nut might be adaptable to the cross slide. The nut has a flange with two screws so it should be attachable, and the hole can be opened out if necessary to clear the body of the nut. Not sure about other dimensions, but they can't be far off, as it is doing much the same job. Maybe not the cheapest solution but they are readily available.

07/07/2021 12:17:23

Andy, the pin is probably parallel and goes right through the casting. If so, it can be persuaded out with a light hammer and a suitably sized pin punch. It should not be too tight.  Can you see the other end?

 

 

 

Edited By Redsetter on 07/07/2021 12:20:34

07/07/2021 07:13:44

Looking at the cross slide photo, there seems to be a lighter spot on the flat surface above and just to the right of the brass feed nut. It may just be discolouration, but is it a retaining pin? I doubt whether the nut is just pressed in.

Edited By Redsetter on 07/07/2021 07:15:12

Thread: Fusible plug in a 5" gauge copper boiler?
29/06/2021 18:24:36

It would be interesting to know about any documented incidents, as opposed to rumours, of miniature boilers failing due to low water. What actually happened, and was anybody hurt in the process?

The other side of the coin is that there is a recorded incident of a fusible plug failing on a 7 1/4" loco and blowing the fire through the firedoor, badly burning the driver. IlRC this happened on the Beer Heights Railway in Devon.

29/06/2021 08:35:45
Posted by Clive Brown 1 on 29/06/2021 08:13:49:

In the many, many years of model loco operation within the ME hobby, how many instances of boiler damage due to low water level have there been? I've not heard of one.

I find it hard to visualise a small fire, say 0.5kg of coal, releasing around a maximum of 1-2kW or so of heat, significantly damaging a typical silver soldered copper boiler, which will contain at least, some water. When I've soldered a boiler I might use heating of up to 20kW with plenty of firebrick insulation and, even then, it's a stuggle.

I agree, and my boiler tester has mentioned this to me more than once.

In normal operation most 5" and smaller boilers have very little water over the firebox crown, this is after all where most of the steam is made. It is quite likely that parts of the crown will be uncovered momentarily while running, as the water must be sloshing around, to use a technical term. In that situation a fusible plug would be quite likely to melt when in fact there is no danger. What usually happens if you let the water get too low is that the steam pressure will drop, and then the blower will not be effective in maintaining the fire, so the system fails safe.

In addition I understand that it is quite difficult to design fusible plugs that will behave consistently as you want them to. So it is not such a simple matter as it seems.

Thread: De-snagging an SL125
27/06/2021 09:42:35

Alan,

Looking at the photo, the enlarged end of the outlet pipe will have a megaphone effect, somewhat like a loudspeaker cone. Extending the inner pipe, or simply inserting a bush to reduce the outer pipe diameter, might be interesting. Whatever you do, you will have to get it very badly wrong to compromise performance. Let us know how you get on.

I think Muffler is just Chinese/American for Silencer.

27/06/2021 06:40:25

I have not had much to do with bike exhausts but have built a few classic car exhausts when the correct system hasn't been available, I have found it difficult to make anything as quiet as as the stock system, but you can usually produce something acceptable. I have never felt that anything I have built has noticeably restricted the power - in fact the quieter systems have been nicer to drive, and you tend to use more revs because it is not so offensively noisy, so it probably goes better anyway! Usually the outlet is a smaller diameter than the inlet and in one case I remember, reducing the tailpipe diameter by maybe 20 percent by inserting a sleeve had the desired effect.

It seems to me that your internal baffle isn't doing very much, and it is a 4 stroke so the system won't be as critical as a 2 stroke, so you can't make it worse, and there is no harm in a bit of trial and error as the diffuser looks easy enough to make. I would make the "gas flow area" smaller than the inlet area initially and then you can drill a few more holes if you need to. The original part was almost certainly made from a stock size of tube so if you can determine what that is, the internal diameter at least will be correct.

Not very scientific perhaps but that is how I would approach it.

 

Edited By Redsetter on 27/06/2021 06:42:47

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