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Member postings for Alan Waddington 2

Here is a list of all the postings Alan Waddington 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Combi Boiler fault finding
18/12/2018 18:38:04

Posted by Howard Lewis on 18/12/2018 18:27:45:

Very interesting!

Our 1973 cast iron boiler must be approaching end of life. (Its had a few thermocouples and the pump impellor has needed reshimming once or twice, so it's a bit like Trigger's broom!)

Is it possible to buy something similar, still, without the complications of condensing, pressure tanks and the like?

All advice gratefully received


fat fingers again!

Edited By Howard Lewis on 18/12/2018 18:28:33

Sadly not Howard, all gas boilers must now be A rated energy efficient, which means condensing. The latest building reg's also require the fitting of smart controls, with either load compensation or a flue gas recovery system in place

You can still run them on open vent, however i don't know why anyone would want to, it's a rubbish idea......Best thing to do with a 70's system is junk the lot and start from scratch. Benefits would include a much warmer house, and annual heating bills reduced by around 30%

17/12/2018 21:54:27
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 17/12/2018 21:07:48:

I have found a motor and cartridge set.

I assume that I just have to:

Isolate mains and water.

Drain out using valve on right of boiler + hot taps.

Unscrew the valve cartridge from top of diverter.

Fit new cartridge + motor.

Close drain and refill

Good to go???

Pretty much it.......Make a boiler engineer out of you yet Neil cheeky

17/12/2018 20:02:27
Posted by blowlamp on 17/12/2018 19:30:12:

If & when you end up needing a new boiler be sure to consider an Intergas

I think there's only four moving parts inside. yes


On the money there Martin, my boiler of choice, fitted around 100 of them so far, great bit of kit.

17/12/2018 19:57:12
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 17/12/2018 19:39:11:
Posted by Alan Waddington 2 on 17/12/2018 19:12:30:

Need a bit more info, boiler make/model etc.

However generally speaking blown fuses are usually down to pump, or water leaking into diverter head.

It's a Main boiler I think a Combi 30 Eco condensing boiler (not 100% sure of the number)

I can't see any leaks. THe PCB doesn't show any signs of damage.

Irony is the pump is a Grundfoss UP XX 50 which everywhere says is one of the best!

Take the diverter stepper motor head off, Black plastic thing with a 3 wire plug attached ( Pull out the metal clip and it will come off) look for signs of water ingress from the brass diverter body and stainless pin that the motor acts on............if its dry, come back to me. If its wet you need a diverter rebuild kit and probably a new stepper motor.

17/12/2018 19:21:17

Posted by alan lloyd 3 on 17/12/2018 19:18:26:

modern boilers are designed to fail safe to hot water only

Sorry Alan, but that’s not correct

17/12/2018 19:12:30

Need a bit more info, boiler make/model etc.

However generally speaking blown fuses are usually down to pump, or water leaking into diverter head.

Thread: harrison m300, spindle run out...bearings?
17/12/2018 18:41:10

Reckon if it was the bearings, your ears would be the first to know, have encountered a few M300’s with problem headstocks and every one sounded like a bag of spanners.

Thread: Source of Aluminium Lined Plastic Water Pipe?
11/12/2018 20:19:28
Posted by An Other on 10/12/2018 18:05:39:

Dave (SoD),

After reading this thread and the 'advice' (?), I'm glad its not me trying to find this stuff in the UK. I get the impression that no-one reads what is written, or looks at the links.

I’m inclined to agree, seeing that the OP has bought a coil after i offered to send him some for free laugh........Oh well, i tried !

10/12/2018 15:31:11

Just read your post above mine, john guest barrier pipe doesnt use aluminium as the barrier, its all plastic.

10/12/2018 15:29:03

Have got a coil of unused Pex pipe 16mm, left over from when i laid my underfloor much do you need ? PM me your address and i will send you it.

Thread: Gloss to Flatt
08/12/2018 06:29:53

Depends on what type of paint it is. I used to use xylene based industrial paint for a particular job and for a silk or matt finish the supplier just added a percentage of a flattening agent to the gloss at mixing stage.

For small jobs using rattle cans from the motor factors i have succesfully used colour with a matt laquer over the top to get a flatter finish.

You could maybe try a small test piece first to check for finish or reaction.

Edited By Alan Waddington 2 on 08/12/2018 06:30:34

Thread: Inverter problem
02/12/2018 23:37:11

Yup mesh is what you need

02/12/2018 22:49:28

According to the plate its a star /delta dual voltage motor, so should definitely have at least 6 wires emerging.

02/12/2018 22:33:16

If there are 3 wires going to the neutral point, you’re in luck, otherwise you will need to dismantle the motor and dig out the star point.

There are 3 seperate windings in the motor, so if you do have six wires emerging already, its fairly easy to work out which pairs go together using continuity on a multimeter or a battery and bulb.

Once you have the ends of the three seperate windings identified, join them as pairs i.e keep each winding seperate and connect the three phases from your inverter to the three pairs.

Thread: J&S 540 surface grinder question
20/11/2018 19:29:31

Well a bit more progress......Sort of

Pulled the drive belt off and both motor and spindle spin freely. (Phew!)

Tried running the motor with no belt on and it works fine. So happy that motor is ok.

Think the issue is my RPC can’t supply enough initial current to spin the motor up with the belt on, the load must just be too high.

Strange really as the RPC idler motor is 3hp, and nothing bad is happening inside the RPC cabinet, no blown fuses, nothing getting hot etc.......Grinder motor just growls and the note of the idler motor changes to a stressed tone.

So guess i need to build a bigger RPC, 5 hp maybe, Don’t really fancy the inverter route for this machine, as there are potentially 3 motors running when the vac is on.

Never simple is it sad

20/11/2018 08:59:50

Thanks Mark, think i’m going to pull the grinder out from the wall at the weekend and investigate further. Was hoping a clean up and service was all it needed, but that seems not to be the case..........bugger sad

19/11/2018 18:58:47

Thanks for the reply’s.......when i first got the machine i powered up the head and it spun up no problem, however the head was virtually dry as the oil level sightglass was broken and the oil was thick and filthy

So now iv’e cleaned the machine up a bit, changed the hydraulic oil, replaced the sightglass and put fresh oil/kerosine in the head, removed the table and cleaned out the oil feed holes etc.

Also manouvered it tight against a wall ( A pig to move) and levelled it up with shims.

I tested it yesterday and the spindle motor seemed to be having trouble starting, Lots of humming and sparks coming from the contactor, so i stripped out the contactor, cleaned up the contacts and away it went.

Played about grinding things for approx an hour to get a feel for the controls etc. The head was just warm, not hot. Turned it off and then tried to restart, but no chance. Wired the motor direct and it still wont spin up, it just hums.

The spindle feels tighter than i would have imagined, so am guessing either spindle is tight or motor bearings are shot. Was trying to avoid having to move the machine again, but motor and belt access is from the rear, so looks like i will have to.

Something else im not sure about too. The oil catching resevoir tube in the head had another tin split tube clipped over it, which seems to defeat the object as it would stop oil from getting caught in the trough and looks a bit home made......Any ideas ? See picsdb4dd2eb-11fb-4488-b745-4ffed15a4c22.jpeg48d454c2-3b79-45f2-ade8-77b77185ff01.jpeg

19/11/2018 17:16:37

Anyone out there have a J&S 540, am wondering how freely the wheel spins when not under power.

Thread: Colchester Master 2500
17/11/2018 21:59:18

Alan, have you removed the lathe end panel and checked that all is well with the change gears etc.

The whole gearbox and in turn both lead screw and carriage drive are fed from there.

Have had both shafts out of my student 1800 in the past, but for the life of me i can’t remember how they actually picked up the drive from the gearbox

On my old Harrison you had the option of stopping the shafts driving by turning a knurled sleeve where the shafts entered the gearbox, but fairly sure they are not present on the Student.

Unfortunately i cant get to my lathe at the minute to inspect.

May not help but here is a cutaway of the gearbox


Thread: Belt driven drilling machine
12/11/2018 15:26:04
Posted by BDH on 12/11/2018 15:12:32:

Sorry if the image cannot be viewed but it comes out fine on my PC and I'm not a paying customer!


Strange , this is the message i get........

alspeed, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:

  1. Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
  2. To see and attach images you need to have donated to the upkeep of board and become a supporter.
  3. Only the member who has posted an advert in the For Sale board my reply to the post.

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