Here is a list of all the postings Alan Waddington 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: harrison l5 start gear|
I Think it will run, but not properly, probably find it will stall under load, never tried it to be fair.
whip the motor cover off and see how many wires are coming out of the motor, you need six.
You really need to wire the inverter direct to the motor and not through any of the lathe switchgear.
ive converted a couple of L5’s to run from inverters, and in each case had to dig the star point out of the motor.
so unless yours has had the motor swapped at some time to a star/delta motor, you will need to do the same.
|Thread: HSS or CS taps and dies|
Was in the same boat recently, needed to tap some 5/8 20tpi cycle threads and my drawer full of miscellaneous, randomly accquired taps was not forthcoming.
Due to the price of HSS i bought a set of three carbon taps from RDG for the princely sum of £12.46 and so far they have performed faultlessly, im using them in Stainless Steel, which is hard on the best of tooling.
|Thread: Harrison L5 thread cutting|
Assuming it has a norton gearbox fitted (some L5’s don’t) You need a 127 tooth wheel to cut metric threads
Edited By Alan Waddington 2 on 18/05/2019 13:45:54
|Thread: Natural gas for TIG welding|
|Thread: DIY Bed Gap|
Did a pair for a mate once as he was skint, foulest shittiest job ever, rust and crap everywhere, took forever to clean up afterwards, lathe, workshop and myself...........never again.
Unless they off something exotic rare or classic, not worth the aggro, modern discs are dirt cheap and consumable
Personally wouldn’t consider butchering a lathe for the purpose.
|Thread: Tap and die question|
Have a job to do that requires a 5/8 x 20 tpi CEI thread, material is stainless.
a quick search online shows HSS taps are around £30 each.
RDG sell a set of 3 carbon taps for £12 but not convinced these will perform so well in stainless
The Tap and die company do ‘HQS’ taps for £12 a piece.
Is this just fancy marketing speak for carbon steel, or are they genuinely better than carbon ?
|Thread: Notre Dame|
Funny job the religion thing.......That book they follow is packed with dire warnings about the dangers of hoarding wealth, and advocates giving it all to the needy........guess the catholic church just skip those pages
|Thread: Viceroy AEW|
Not had that particular mill, but have had several similar, Tom Senior etc, last one was a lovely universal Delta Hero,
Found them all frustrating due to lack of daylight, you run out of room very quickly.
Vertical heads are also pretty useless for drilling, as it’s hard to feel whats going on when cranking a handle.
And of course you can only drill vertical holes.
I wouldn’t consider a mill without a quill now, it just makes everything so much easier.
|Thread: Notre Dame|
Can’t help thinking the money it will take to rebuild could be better spent elsewhere, its just a building when all’s said and done.
|Thread: Simple WorkshopTips|
Don’t wear slippers when welding 👍
|Thread: 2 pack, enamel...paint advice please!|
.As per David’s post, Dacrylate sprays lovely, Thinner is Xylene, (badged as R5 by Dacrylate.) Just wear a decent filter mask.
Like most xylene based paints, you have to recoat within a couple of hours, or leave for a couple of days between coats, or it crizzles.
i found a quick light tack coat, leave 20 mins ( depends on temp) to dry, followed by a heavier coat, and a final coat thinned down a bit more works a treat.
You can get a decent finish straight from the gun, but i let the paint harden for a week and then flatted with 1500 wet and dry, and polished with a rotary polisher using Farecla G3, much like you would with car paint,
It has good resistance to oils and cutting fluids etc and is pretty tough.
|Thread: Cincinnati 207MK restoration|
You do realise it’s probably 10hp or more.......plus motors for the feeds etc, gonna take one hell of a rotary converter unless you have 3 phase on tap !
Usually machines end up in the scrap yard for good reason, just because the ways are good, doesn’t mean it’s not paggered. Big old lump though, maybe it got weighed in for the scrap weight......Large Horizontal machines are not generally sought after, so in turn dont fetch much.
Have you seen this thread on PM **LINK**
Guess if you have a burning desire to own a big horizontal, and it’s dirt cheap, then worth a punt.
|Thread: Cap head screws|
If you want to buy online, iv’e used Orbital fasteners in the past, found them good quality and reasonably priced.
|Thread: J&S 540 Manual PDF|
Recently done a maintenance job on mine.....cleaned out tank, replaced hydraulic oil, took bed off and cleaned out oil feeds, replaced spindle oil etc.
Fairly easy job, found oil grade info online, rest was common sense, so no manual required.
Having never used one, controls were easy enough to figure out without a manual.
Wheel balancing info is available on youtube amongst other places.
So unless you intend delving deeper into the works, reckon a manual is not a must.
Saying all that, a week or so after finishing the job, i found an original manual hiding in the back of the wheel balancing cabinet
|Thread: Hardinge lathe on fleabay|
Yeah it’s definitely been given a lick over, but at that age hardly surprising, don’t think i would buy without seeing first though.
|Thread: All things Beaver Mill|
Have had my Beaver for a good while, but up to now never had cause to remove the drawbar. Until today that is..........Tried to fit an INT 40 boring head, only to find it has a 5/8 imperial thread rather than the M16 of the majority of my tooling.
No problem, just remove the the M16 drawbar and make a new imperial one, easy peasy.......except unlike every other mill i’ve owned, the drawbar won’t come out, it withdraws around 150mm and then hits a hard stop.
Manual offers no clues, on the drawings the drawbar is just a long bolt through the quill, which is what i expected ?
Any ideas ?
Edited By Alan Waddington 2 on 11/03/2019 21:45:11
|Thread: Jones and Shipman 540 Dripping|
Managed to lift the bed off and back on without help, so although probably not advisable, it is possible.
Well worth the effort, as a couple of the oilways were blocked solid.
Also drained and cleaned out the oil tank, seriously sh*tty job.
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