Here is a list of all the postings Alan Waddington 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Restoring Beaver VBRP Mill|
I was going to start a new thread about my newly acquired Beaver, I'm not contemplating a full restoration, more a clean up and repair job, but is seems sensible to just add to this thread and keep all the Beaver info in one place........hope thats ok?
Rewind a few days, and i saw a Beaver VBRP advertised on Gumtree, it was cheap and local.......Tempting ! The only problem being space, my workshop is crammed in the corner of an oversize domestic garage, with a door that limits headroom when open.
Out with the tape measure and after some 'Man' measuring i convinced myself it was a goer, so me and a mate hooked up the trailer and set off to collect.
This is my unsuspecting universal mill before it was ousted to make room.....
The seller had a forklift and agree to load the mill onto my trailer, we decided to swivel the head down on to the table to lower the COG, there are 4 bolts to loosen, and then the head should rotate on a worm and gear, unfortunately it wouldn't budge more than a few degrees either way. after much faffing about we decided to undo the bolts completely and withdraw the head enough to clear the ring gear, this allowed the head to spin. we had a strap around the forklift tines to support the weight of the head.
The journey home was uneventful, apart from it raining heavily and the mill spewing loads of oil everywhere, pity anyone following us. As it was late we stuck the trailer in my mates workshop overnight.
Today we brought her home, luckily my aforementioned mate has a bloody big tractor, with a home brewed crane on the back, which made short work of unloading, he dropped it right in front of the garage, and in ten minutes we had it shoved in place on steel rollers.
First job was to work out why the head wouldn't rotate, so i wound the table up to support the head and unbolted it completely to gain access to the worm and gear.
Once inside it was obvious what the problem had been.
I decided that would have to be a job for later, so boiled the head back on minus the gears and set to manually rotating it back vertical.......bugger me its heavy! in the end i used a small trolley jack and loads of wooden packers to get me most of the way vertical, with the last 30 degrees done by brute strength.
Result.....it fits....and the garage door opens.....just !
Decided to have a few hours of peace, cleaning off all the swarf, oil and shite....first impressions are good, minimal backlash, and no visible wear to the ways....The table has a few battle scars, but nothing that's going to affect anything i do in the future. Interestingly it has piping for a one shot oil system, although no resevoir or pump are present, this may account for the good condition of the ways.
More updates to follow
Thanks Russ! that's very kind of you, much appreciated. PM sent
Bit of a thread resurrection, but have spent the afternoon dragging a VBRP home, and would love to get my hands on some technical literature. All the Dropbox links earlier in the thread are now dead.
There seems to be loads of variations with these machines, so any info is welcome. I convinced myself it wasn't that big, but now it's home......... it's bloody huge, was surprised when the 1 tonne forklift used to lift it onto my trailer did a nose dive with the back wheels in fresh air......
Pictures to follow.......
|Thread: One very large can of worms!|
Slightly O/T but my first lathe was a Grayson, cracking little lathe, had powered cross feed, which was a nice feature for a 3.5" lathe. Accurate enough for my needs at the time (car building) if a touch small, and a great starter machine to learn on.
Hope you manage to get it within acceptable tolerances.
|Thread: Faulty boring head, help needed please|
Thanks for all the replies, much appreciated.
I managed to work out how the feed button mechanism is supposed to work, but elation was short lived.....stripped it down a little further and found one of the small gears is missing some teeth, guess it's had a major crash at some point interestingly enough both the larger ring gears it engages with look in perfect health.
Please bear with me, this might turn into a long winded post............
A good while back i bought a Kuroda KKS UFB 3S auto boring and facing head via fleabay, have only just got around to having a play with it, and couldn't for the life of me work out how it was supposed to operate.
Watched a few videos of people using Wohlhaupters, which are very similar and began to smell a rat.
Anyhow, stripped the thing down this afternoon and I've definitely bought a 'wrong un'. It's been in bits before and bodged, with at least one part missing.
i suppose my first question to those in the know is, do we think it's fixable or have i bought an expensive paper weight.
The main problem is with the buttons that determine the feed rate 'B', the pawls which they operate 'C' and the cylindrical bearings that engage the drive 'A'
There should be two feed rate options selectable .008" or .004" when the appropriate button is pressed it shoves a pawl up inside the main shaft which in turn pushes the cylindrical bearing out of its hole, meshing with the drive ring.
In my example, at least one of the pawls .008" has been messed with by grinding/filing and the cylindrical bearing is missing, so no way is that going to work as is. The other pawl .004" looks unmolested and the drive bearing is present, however when i push/pull the button nothing happens, and looking at the shape of the button end and the pawl shape i can't see how it should/would work.
anyhow enough of my ramblings, a picture or three paint a thousand words.
|Thread: Safety at home|
Blimey, sounds like he's been quite lucky.........Its usually the innocuous little jobs that get you.
My mates wife gets out of hospital today after having surgery to remove the end of her finger, infected bone from a spell she got in a month ago while sanding skirting board.
Last year my brother nearly lost an eye after getting a tiny piece of wood imbedded in it whilst using electric hedge trimmers in the garden.....he fells trees for a living with a blooming great chain saw !
At tech college in Leeds as an apprentice, one of the lecturers wore an eye patch, lost his eye at 18 using a cold chisel, so we had it ingrained into us that mushroom heads were a big no no.
Hope your pal makes a full recovery
Edited By Alan Waddington 2 on 08/07/2016 18:44:45
Edited By Alan Waddington 2 on 08/07/2016 18:45:04
|Thread: drilling angle iron|
I tend to buy Heller cobalt twist drills from my local merchant, have found them great for handheld drilling, generally using an 18v cordless. For 8mm I pilot with a 5mm first.
|Thread: Steam powered Tricycle|
Yes you did read the title correctly......not sure this boiler would make it past UK inspection judging by the welding on the rest of the job **LINK**
|Thread: Harrison L5 new to me|
Just put the lathe in the lowest gear mate, you won't turn it by hand trying to remove the chuck.
|Thread: Brough superior|
Wow, amazing craftsmanship, maybe it should be called a 'Bough' Superior
|Thread: which lathe|
Colchester Student 1800 runs quite happily on an inverter. Pretty sure it will easily pass through a 33" door, but will throw a tape over it tomorrow for you and confirm.
|Thread: Best tool of the day|
Not quite in that league, but my first Gaffer had a 16lb sledge hammer with the shaft sawn off short. He was only about 5'-6" tall but as broad across the shoulders and forearms like Popeye. He would wield the thing with one hand quite easily. As a skinny 16 year old I had all on to use it two handed for more than a few blows. " is that your name and address lad " he would say, referring to the marks I inevitably left on anything I attacked.
|Thread: Welder wiring|
As Dave said above, those old oil cooled welders are a bit strange in that they only use 2 phases + earth of a 3 phase supply. You will be able to hook it up to single phase, the live will go to the 240 v stud. I run mine on a 20amp supply, but don't expect to burn much more than a 3.25 rod, I usually use 2.5's which is big enough for most home use.
|Thread: Tom Senior help/advice|
If it's the original Tom Senior 3 phase motor, chances are it will be wired 440v star, you will need to disassemble the motor, dig out the star point and convert to delta to run it from a VFD, or swap the motor for a delta wired one.
|Thread: Inverters? Talk to me.|
Have a word with Gavin Oseman 01684 574966, he sometimes advertises on Homeworkshop.org.uk. Bought the inverter for my Colchester from him, it came pre programmed and had a remote pendant wired up. Very reasonable price and he tends to sell quality name brand inverters.
Saying that, my pal bought a 5.5kw ebay special to run a two post ramp and it has worked faultlessly, although the manual/ instructions were a touch sketchy to say the least, and it took a bit of messing around to set up.
|Thread: Manual machinist apprenticeship work trial - any advice?|
Turn up early and don't be the first in the clocking out queue.
Keep your hands out of your pockets.
Don't rush any given tasks, concentrate on doing them well, speed will come with experience.
Don't be scared to ask questions. Especially if unsure of something, better to ask twice than balls something up.
Keep your work area neat and tidy, pick up a brush if things get quiet.
Keep your fingers out of spinny things.
Make sure to add an extra teabag for the pot.
Sounds like a great opportunity, try to enjoy the experience and best of luck, hope it works out for you.
|Thread: Which lathe?|
Wise words from Doug. I was building a car when I got my first lathe so the 3.5" Grayson I bought was on the face of it an unsuitable size choice, however i learnt a great deal on that lathe! often working at the absolute limits of its capacity. Most jobs were doable with a bit of ingenuity, but in hindsight painfully slow. Spent many a happy hour in front of it though, in between thumbing a greasy copy of Mr Spareys most excellent tome " The Amateurs Lathe"
I eventually upgraded to a Harrison L5a which brought a wealth of automation and convenience to the workshop. The ability to take heavy cuts without stalling the lathe, Norton screw cutting gearbox, 4 way toolpost, powered feeds etc, made jobs that would have taken hours or even days on the Grayson a doddle to complete. It also had a very useful boring table which I used for milling duties until I could afford a dedicated mill.
After many more years I was offered a Colchester Student 1800 at the right money, so reluctantly passed the Harrison on to a friend, the Colchester is another step up in convenience, DRO, QCTP, Cam lock chucks, inverter drive etc, however unlike the Harrison it doesn't feel like wearing a pair of old slippers yet.
Like many people these days I'm time poor, so appreciate the speed and convenience a more industrial sized machine affords, but to be honest it's not a necessity for many jobs, and in some ways I miss the challenge of making things on the little Grayson.
|Thread: Harrison L5 problem|
Edited By Alan Waddington 2 on 23/01/2016 12:32:29
|Thread: Chipmaster power issues|
It might be possible to use the static converter you have already bought as a base to build a rotary converter.
Loads of info and wiring diagrams free on the net.
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