Member postings for Stuart Bridger

+1 on Robert's comments. I have an Electronic engineering background but knew nothing about VFDs, when I was looking to convert my Chipmaster. I got great service, advice and a safe, quality product from Inverter Drive Supermarket. I was happy to pay a bit extra for this benefit.

I suspect you may have several issues here, but I would agree with Clive, you may be on a hding to nothing with the static converter. If the pseudo third phase is not up and running and the control gear is connected to that phase, the contactor coil will never get energised. It might be worth swapping around a couple of the phases on the input to see if you can get the control gear energised. I also don't like the look of some of the old switch gear. The main contactor looks well past its sell by date. Poking around 415v if you don't know what you are doing is a dangerous sport. If you could get someone in with Electrical knowledge it would help.

For my Chipmaster, I went down the VFD route. I reused the existing forward/reverse lever and switch for the low voltage VFD control circuit.

If you check the VFD manual it is pretty simple, most will have a quickstart guide that should have enough info.
Below is what I did for my Chipmaster with an Emerson Commander. I didn't implement jog functionality.

See **LINK**

Will tell you everything you need from the part number

That's a shame but probably a symptom of the age of the unit. I would make sure everything is seated firmly and give the cables a wiggle. Other than that it is probably time to cut your losses and get a new console. Machine DRO offer adapter cables for Mitutoyo scales, to connect into current products. They do recommend speaking to them for compatibility.

We are struggling with some lack of clarity from the OP. We just need to know whether the fault lies with scale/cable, amplifier module or display/chassis. Simple swapping of components, should isolate this easily.

Having the modular amplifiers should help in diagnosing the location of the fault.
I suspect that you should be able to just swap the ampliifiers between slots.

So take one scale input (you know these are good) plug into each amplifier in turn. Then swap the amplifier modules between slots ans see if the fault stays with the slot or moves with the amplifier.

While you are at it, it would be worth reseating the connectors from the back panel to the PCB and also give the edge connector a clean

Thanks, lathe is now significantly quieter running.

All done, Ended up buying M10 metric mounts as UNC were not easy to find. Made up some studs to adapt the thread.

Edited By Stuart Bridger on 16/11/2019 15:20:19

Started the mount replacement tonight, you can see what state the old ones were in.

Once I had scraped the rmains of the rubber off, they unscrewed easily with water pump pliers

What was left

Replacement was well overdue!
New mounts will wait for another session.

Edited By Stuart Bridger on 06/11/2019 21:32:07

As well as backing up the existing system, I would recommend not powering off. Most failures tend to occur at startup.

I wouldn't bother replacing a drive on a nine year old machine. CPU and memory technology has moved on and the software has got bloated to match. Also other components will be deteriorating Personally I use Dell both for work laptop and desktop style home PC.

I agree, I wouldn't be without a DRO on the mill, but quite happy without on the lathe. I can see the benefits, but not top of the list.

I started my career in industry, one of an intake of eighty apprentices. While machine tool safety was heavily drummed in. The biggest focus was on road safety. We had lecture from Surrey Police before we got anywhere near a lathe and were bluntly told that after 4 years one of us would be killed on a motorcycle. They were right. So my point is it is all about understanding and minimizing risk. As home shop machinists, we are 100% responsible for our own safety and none of us wants to get injured. Appropriate guarding is part of that. By far the most dangerous piece of kit in my workshop is a chainsaw. For which I undertook formal training and wouldn't dream of using without full PPE, because I understand the risks.

My Chipmaster came without a guard and it was one of the first jobs I did to fit one. It is a decent fitting one from Nelsa and it doesn't get in the way for 95% of operations. I also use coolant and it does catch the fling off the chuck. My mill is different. The factory supplied one on my Warco VMC was useless, in that it prevented any sensible work and was soon removed. I use a screen on a mag mount where I can.

Thanks, good information

I have a Chipmaster where the motor/variator assembly is mounted on the cast U shaped frame. Does anyone else have this arrangement who could point me to how the frame is mounted to the base of the lathe. The rubber anti vibation pads on mine have degraded into a gooey mess. While I could strip it down, I thought it would be easier to get some advice before starting

1) The manual shows three bolts but only two pads, but is not clear which location has the pads. Mine appears to have a sticky rubber mess around all three?

2) What form are the pads, do they just rest on the base or do they have a through hole

3) How is the motor assembly secured to the based? Mine seems to pivot from the single mounting at the front, which applies tension to the drive belts. But i'm not sure if this is correct or just down to the fact that the pads have disintegrated. I get an alarming banging at high speed, which implies that the assembly is bouncing around.

4) Lastly if anyone has replaced these mounts, what have they used?

Thanks

Stuart

Thought it was amusing that he reversed the spindle rotation before starting his parting adventure

For me the biggest issue with the US and older UK plans is not threads, but the use of fractional dimensions. They are OK for woodworkers but don't sit well with the lathe or DRO. A recent rediscovery of my 1980 Zeus book really helps here.

I am currently going though this exercise with Elmers Mine Engine, no issues so far
2-56 > M2
3-48 > M2.5
5-40 > M3 etc.

Mind you I am still working in imperial for the main dimensions ....