Here is a list of all the postings Pero has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: camlock back plate|
Excellent video, thank you.
I had thought of trying to do something similar but the cost of a slab of steel for a D1-6 backplate is higher than the cost of a 250-300 mm ready machined one! Not the first time of have experienced this.
|Thread: Did i make the right choice buying an old banger Myford lathe.|
Bought several lengths of aluminati, 6082 to be precise, at the end of last year - machines very well!
WRT Hopper you might like to read up on his complete re-build of an ML7 which he purchased in full knowledge that it was in distressed condition.
He has a great deal of practical experience which he is always prepared to share and I for one look forward to his posts and almost always learn something useful from them.
Current owner of Australian, British, Chinese and American lathes and have no axe to grind. Actually I do have two axes that are very blunt and seriously need sharpening - I find the ankle biter to be the most effective for this task.
|Thread: VFD to lathe motor connector|
The question of earthing the screen has come up previously ( haven't most things? ) but, if I remember correctly, a definitive answer has not been reached - mainly as a result of different manufacturers having different recommendations - some at one end ( VFD ), some at the other ( motor ), and some at both.
It would be nice if someone with the right equipment could do a series of tests of each of the options and provide the results. The best solution could however vary depending on the VFD/motor combination and the physical arrangement of the parts and wiring. Not my field unfortunately but I would be interested in the results as I have a number of these units in store waiting to be installed.
|Thread: UV Cure Resin|
Except that JB Weld is a two part epoxy not a UV curing adhesive. It is also very opaque, not transparent which may be a consideration.
Another possible source is the adhesive used for attaching rear vision mirrors to the inside of car windscreens. Widely available from car parts and hardware stores and obviously very durable as it has to withstand extremes of temperature ( and humidity ) as well as bumps and mirror adjustments. It comes in small quantities but is relatively expensive.
|Thread: My First Stationary Engine|
There is no right or wrong.
I like wood ... and metal. It's a matter of personal preference and what the builder thinks suits the particular model best.
A well finished base adds an enormous amount to the presentation of a model engine.
|Thread: Noisy Lathe Gearbox|
Quite right Thaiguzzi - definitely banana skins.
Also, I vaguely remember banana oil being used for something to do with model aeroplanes, so use in lathe gearboxes has to be a no brainer.
|Thread: Delays in Shipping from China|
By coincidence I received a message from a supplier this afternoon (Australian Western Standard Time) asking for understanding regarding delays. The coronavirus having added to the normal delay with the Chinese New Year. The holiday period has been extended to 10 February and ( hopefully ) normal business will be able to resume then.
Terrible situation the country finds itself in with the number of infections ramping up day after day. Hopefully a vaccine will be along soon.
|Thread: Someone with a Cowells 90ME|
I've finally fought my way through to the ME90 ( currently attempting to improve access to my workshop in the hope of doing something useful ).
The headstock indexer, as shown in Michael's post, has four components ( plus a few screws ). These are the index wheel, a machined rectangular mounting block for the detent arm , the detent arm itself which is a cranked piece of steel bar, and the detent pin which is a piece of turned and threaded rod knurled at one end and pointed at the other.
The pin itself is either chromed or more likely stainless steel as it is bright and shiny and shows no sign of corrosion, the mounting block probably steel ( based on appearance and colour ), the arm I am not certain about - possibly spring or hardened steel.
If you let me know what part you are missing I will see if I can produce some accurate measurements and also check any relevant screw lengths and threadforms.
|Thread: Myford ML7 clutch|
Not only bitchy but wrong in almost every respect.
These sort of rants do nothing to inform newer members who may be attempting to work through the minefield of what to buy and are only further confused by these sorts of statements.
|Thread: Total power loss today!|
Not necessarily. Many alarm systems are designed to trip when the mains supply is interrupted. The fact that the alarm was sounding indicates that there is life in the battery.
On my system the alarm also trips when the the mains re-connects and it is necessary to punch in the alarm code to re-set the system.
That being said, it is a sad fact that the re-chargeable gel cells which provide the back-up for most systems do eventually die and must be replaced. Again, depending on the system, the alarm panel may indicate when the battery needs replacing. Alternatively you can check the voltage as it should be fully charged when on standby.
If you are monitoring battery condition yourself, an annual check when you replace your smoke alarm batteries ( or other standby batteries ) is a good idea.
If a replacement is indicated you either need to change the battery or have your alarm company do this for you. As the alarm companies generally charge a small fortune for this service it is much cheaper if you can do it yourself. If you have a monitored alarm you may need to warn the alarm company in advance that you are servicing the system to save on the cost if the security have to pay a visit, or the grumbles if the constabulary have to attend!
|Thread: Abracs Quick-lock abrasive tool|
If the tool is indeed Australian, the only manufacturer I can think of is a company called Arbortech. It is a local ( Western Australian ) company that has invented a number of interesting machines, mainly for woodwork but other things as well.
The machine that most closely fits your description is the Mini carver ( updated from the one previously sold as the Mini grinder ).
You can check the Arbortech website for their product range and they also list a number of UK distributors.
They don't seem to have a fitting for the Quick-lock system but do have a 50 mm rubber backed disc system for sanding and polishing.
The only other possibility, and going down in size a little, is the Proxxon long nosed angle grinder.
From memory both of these are mains voltage machines so the transformer leaves me wondering a little.
Best of luck with the search,
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2019|
Damn! Survived 81 posts without an emoji but it finally got me. Not quite sure what was there before that grinning idiot stepped in - please ignore.
From experience, I admit to being a nervous Nellie when it comes to wooden benches ( and I do have several which I am very happy with ) and I take a number of precautions with their construction. These relate primarily to the fact that wood expands and contracts with the seasons ( due to humidity ) causing joints to open up and become subject to movement over time.
There is also the problem of sagging over time due to weight loading. I don't think your current design will stop the front from sagging over time, even with the metal strip.
To counter these potential problems I would sheet both ends, or at the very least put in a diagonal brace. I would also put in a wide board at the top front - 6" x 1" minimum ( or alternatively an additional, center, leg ) and also a brace at the front bottom to prevent the legs splaying.
These do interfere with under bench storage but I think the top support as a minimum will be required. The bottom rail could possibly be incorporated as part of built in storage at a latter date if needed ( occasional check measuring will show if this is so ).
Painting or varnishing all surfaces, both externally and internally, which is a pain, will also help to stabilize the timber and preserve it. I did mention I was into overkill didn't I?
My Myford and a heavy weight drill press are both on wooden benches ( both now over 40 years old  and both are better than new ( I do occasional upgrades! ). However I have noticed that the low shelf, comprised of 19 mm tongue and groove hardwood boards, in my lathe bench have started to sag ( mostly under their own weight - well perhaps with one or two chucks and a few other light accessories! ) and will require some additional support in the near future. As i mentioned occasional maintenance may be required.
Best of luck with the new mill - just in time for Christmas.
|Thread: Issue 286 - Bridgeport Article|
I am slightly resurrecting an older thread here but my copy of MEW286 only arrived today. Everything takes a little longer down here in this far corner of the Aunty Poddies - i.e. Western Australia!
Firstly thanks to Andrew for a very interesting article and please don't be deterred from further writing on related subjects. After 40 odd years of writing, editing and reading technical reports I can assure you that it is very rare to find one where the odd failure - from very minor to quite serious - has not slipped through somewhere in the process.
I don't have a Bridgeport but do have a clone on a slight dose of steroids. It weighs in at 1.5 tonnes and is powered by a 5 hp 3 phase motor. Purchased new some years ago it is of course what you might refer to as of Far Eastern origin, although here it is closer to north. Apart from the increase in size it is very similar to the Bridgeport and I have found the Bridgeport Series 1 manual ( available free to download on the Hardinge Bridgeport website ) a very useful source of information as the supplied 'manual' is a little brief.
My machine as supplied was relatively well featured with in-built coolant pump, Z and X axis power feed, 3 axis DRO, one shot lubrication and halogen work-light. Subsequent additions have included a riser block for the column and power feed for the Y axis. Also available are a slotting head attachment ( seriously expensive ) and horizontal milling attachment although I have not stretched to these as yet.
Compressed air powered drawbars are also available (mine has a NT40 spindle), although I would refer electric drive rather than air. I'll have to work on that.
The above is really just a way of saying that it is possible to feature one of these Asian origin machines to the same extent that Andrew has been able to do - assuming you chose the right one to start with, not all can be upgraded to the same extent, and have deep enough pockets.
The penalty is cost and weight - this is an industrial size machine and everything that accompanies it has an industrial size price tag. Not only that, everything is heavy - and getting heavier as I get older. Planning ahead for future heavy lifting is getting higher on my list of priorities every day!
So, for those who have either a genuine Bridgeport or a clone of any size, I highly recommend the Bridgeport manual. I have found it to be very relevant to my decidedly non-Bridgeport machine. You may also find it possible to obtain the accessories to enhance these clone machine as required.
Once again thank you for taking the time to prepare the article Andrew.
|Thread: Solvent for degreasing engine, without damaging the paintwork?|
If you are trying to protect as much as possible of the original paintwork, as you have suggested, I would go down the restoration route as far as possible. That is: start with the mildest possible solvent ( i.e. water ) and work up slowly from there - probably to isopropyl alcohol ( iso-propanol ). I fear that more aggressive solvents are likely to dissolve, discolour or otherwise permanently damage the paintwork. however there may be others on here who have specific experience with old steam toys who can offer more specific advice.
A cotton bud with a dab of the selected solvent in an inconspicuous location will indicate the likely effect on the paintwork of more extensive cleaning. In any event I would avoid wholesale soaking and work on a slow dismantle applying solvent to only the parts you are working to free up.
Also, beware the use of aerosols. While the solvent may be relatively benign, the hydrocarbon propellant may be very damaging to paints, plastics and rubber. I now only use solvents in hand pump spray bottles for this reason.
Best of luck with the project. It is great to see these things being brought back to life.
|Thread: 4 jaw Self centering chuck recommendations please|
I do have a couple of Sanou 6 jaw chucks but have not yet put them into service so cannot comment on their accuracy. They do however appear to be fairly well finished and the jaws to meet correctly. Incidentally the largest is a 250 mm chuck so they do get up to the "industrial" sizes.
Before buying I did find a video on the internet ( sorry I don't have a link ) that covers the dismantling and cleaning of one of these chucks ( a self-centering four jaw if I remember correctly ) which the author recommended doing before using.
This would also include removal of any small burrs.
Overall the reviews would indicate that they are fit for general purpose work.
Hi XD 351
I believe I have bought all of my Forstner bits and saw tooth cutters from Carbatec (locally in Perth, but they have stores in most capitals ). They are available in sets or individually in HSS and carbide tipped.
Not sure where exactly you are located, but if it is any help they also have online sales.
|Thread: Turning Cast Iron question - Health & Cleaning Up|
When machining messy materials like cast iron I place a sheet or sheets of computer paper ( or similar) on the ways and then spray it liberally with INOX or WD40 or similar which a) keeps it in place and b) the fine swarf sticks to the paper.
At the end of the job it is an easy matter to pick up the paper with the swarf attached and dispose of it making machine cleaning a much easier task.
|Thread: Threading 1/8 stainless steel|
I have had the same experience when threading 3 mm 316 rod (and 6 mm and 12 mm) and have adopted the practice of putting a taper on the end of the rod, getting the thread ( just ) started in the lathe and then moving on to the bench vice.
Using lots of tapping paste but it doesn't seem to help much with the lathe part.
I have had similar slipping problems with threading in the bench vise when using aluminium soft jaws and have had to resort to the very grippy hard steel jaws. It works but the result is not pretty.
At this point I should mention that I have old injuries to my wrists that limit the amount of pressure I can apply to chuck keys and vise handles at times which probably adds to my problem here.
I also get the feeling that there may be a slippery surface coating on stainless steel rod, possibly a residue of the polishing process, which adds to the problem.
On my next outing I intend to try a clean down with acetone before using an ER collet in the lathe. Further experiments to follow .....
Edited By Pero on 01/05/2019 04:56:53
|Thread: Fuse for "Align" slow motion mill table motor|
I have three Align units, but only one in operation and readily accessible at this time.
The Align transformer, which has not been put into operation at this time, has a 3 Amp quick blow fuse. This is as supplied and the fuse rating is stamped on the ends of the fuse.
The operating unit is fitted on a RF31 mill drill with a home built step down transformer unit constructed using a toroidal transformer. With this unit I experimented a little with fuses starting with a 1 Amp quick blow and working up. After blowing a couple of 3 Amp slow blow fuses I stepped up to a 5 Amp quick blow and have had no further issues.
I haven't experimented with the motor speed setting at start up so I do not know how this might affect the inrush current. I suspect the load on the motor as determined by the alignment and smoothness of operation of the drive train and weight of the table and any work piece on it would have the most affect on the inrush current on start up.
Hope this helps
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