Here is a list of all the postings Mike Bondarczuk has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Possible New Internet Scam to be Aware of.|
There is also a new scam going round where you are advised that you qualify for a refund of some £279 on your TV licence but that the BBC require your bank details in order to make the payment.
|Thread: Myford ML7 not running true and spirals|
I am also in Southampton and it does sound as if the work piece is turning too slowly and your feed rate along the work is too fast, thereby causing the spirals.
Drop me a line via the private messages and let me know where you are and perhaps I can help you out, as I also have a Myford 7, as well as other lathes.
|Thread: Recommend an er11 chuck and collets|
I wanted some ER11 collets and a holder for the occasional small size drill work and went direct to China and purchased a complete set of collets from 1mm through to 7mm in 1/2mm steps plus a holder with a 10mm parallel shank and 5 spare collet closing nuts all for less than £20 delivered by air mail within 7 working days, and the quality is well acceptable.
I can try to look up the vendor and pass it on to you if you are interested.
|Thread: Clarkson's Horizontal Compound|
What a lovely engine you have built and a great colour scheme to boot.
I managed to purchase a part complete kit for the same engine a few years ago and am trying to obtain the missing castings from Blackgates but having some trouble getting a reply to my enquiries.
The missing items are the steam chests, front and rear cylinder covers, trunk guides, crank discs, eccentrics and eccentric sheaves, steam chest covers and finally the drum for the wheels, and hopefully they are still available for purchase.
Did you encounter any specific casting issues or problems with the turning of any parts.
|Thread: Mill / shaper dilemma|
I have both, a Boxford 8" shaper and a Chester 626 mill.
The mill is used almost daily whereas the shaper is used at most once per month, but I still have it and it does produce a lovely flat finish.
If you can find the space then go for both but if you can only have one the go for the mill
|Thread: Stuart 10v cylinder Cover PCD on warco DRO|
I find the easiest way for holes on a PCD is to use my DRO as the X and Y axis count guides but also use the formula in the Zeus booklet, which covers from 3holes through to 12 holes, though of course they all must be equally spaced.
I am just in the process of finishing a Stuart S50 and used this method very successfully for both ends of the cylinder.
|Thread: Lathe Chuck Attachment Methods.|
The Hardinge taper has two positions, and turning the chuck clockwise sets it up for normal forward rotation work and turning the chuck anticlockwise sets it up on the other side of the taper keyway for anti-clockwise rotation.
Would not recommend allowing the chuck to reset itself and always stop the motor and then turn the chuck, but do agree that I cannot think of any reason why the chuck should turn backwards, so to speak, as patron g off is very easy and safe and threading is straightforward with the proprietary Hardinge system.
|Thread: Milling Machine|
I also have a Chester 626 mill but an earlier one from Taiwan and have a three phase motor via a VFD and four DRO's and it is all that I need, though an extra 4 inches on height clearance would be nice when tapping sometimes.
|Thread: Fireproof Overalls|
When our local Pirelli site was changing over to Prysmian they were throwing out all of the flame proof boiler suits, jackets and "bib'n'brace" systems with the old company logo and I had a friend who was working there and managed to obtain three complete sets of suits, which he got from the skip.
Great overalls though a tad warm in the summer but can work in them perfectly safely when welding or performing any other thermally hazardous activities.
|Thread: Warco VMC|
For the rubber swarf guards to protect the Y-axis lead screw on my 626 mill I have just last week replaced the torn rubber sheeting with some 250mm wide by 500mm long neoprene rubber sheeting in a 1mm thickness and fixed it to the top of the stand by a 25mm wide steel bar using the two M5 screw holes and the standard metal strap at the table end.
For the cost of just over a couple of pounds for a 500mm by 500mm sheet I have enough material for a replacement when that one tears, which hopefully will not be for some time yet.
Just to add my comments to this topic i also have a pre-owned Chester 626 VMC, which is identical to the Warco model and mine is one of the early ones from Taiwan.
It is fitted with a 2.5HP motor fed via a VFD and stays on the highest speed belt setting and I just vary the speed from very very slow through to about10% above the original speed.
So far, which is now more than three years, I have had absolutely no issues with the performance and also have the benefit of a four axis DRO set-up with the fourth axis being he quill feed.
Would certainly recommend that route for power.
|Thread: Model Engine Maker|
I am a regular reader and sometime contributor but so far have bene totally unable to access the site, which is very frustrating.
Have been trying to log on to Model Engine Maker for the last two days and just get a 404 error message so still not functional, and that is via Safari.
|Thread: WHERE ARE THE SHAPER USERS ?|
Just found this thread and find it fascinating and great to see that shapers are still in use in some home workshops.
I have an imperial 8" Boxford which produces a superb flat surface which I generate as a base for my stationary engines.
Don't have any pics on my profile yet of it bit will post some very soon.
|Thread: Wales 3 - Belgium 1|
And I suspect so are the Belgians !!!
|Thread: air brush or rattle cans|
Many thanks for the replies and it seems that so far the general consensus is that with careful preparation rattle cans should be OK to produce an acceptable result.
I have stared the preparation this morning and already have the etch primer mentioned so can commence the spraying.
I am now at the stage where my first engine is dismantled and being got ready for painting.
My question relates to which is the easiest and best way to paint the various aluminium and steel components of the engine, which is a Stewart Hart Horizontal.
My brush painting skills are pretty much zero and although I have had some experience at using rattle cans, with varying degrees of success am now thinking of going the air brush route but at the same time am seeking any advice in the subject.
I had looked at earlier postings on this topic but cannot find anything discussing both approaches with advantages and benefits, both positive and negative.
If the air brush route is the recommended one then any additional advice regarding choice of air brush type would also be very welcome.
|Thread: Stewart Harts Horizontal Engine build|
The video is of the first run and I had copiously oiled the main bearings as well as the slides and the big end bearing.
The engine is now stripped down and in the process of being prepared for painting but in the interim I had turned four oil cups, two to go on the main bearing supports and one each for the top slides.
The dimensions of the cups are such that they have a capacity of 4ml of oil and feed the bearings via 1mm diameter holes.
The idea of simple countersunk dimples to hold oil had never occurred to me and is a nice idea for the future.
The build log will show the oil cups as well as the other major components and the final video will show the finished painted engine, and I am currently busy cutting gaskets for the heads as well as the steam valve assembly.
Reading through the last few messages regarding the wobbling effect I do now recall that after uploading onto YouTube an option to activate the "steadying software" was accepted and in hindsight I think that this was a bad move as the original has no visible wobble, apart from the shaky human stand "me".
I have a 1/4" Whitworth tap and die set so can make a stand of sorts.
Was actually thinking of one of those flexible armed "gorilla" type stands which I could then position rather more freely.
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