Here is a list of all the postings Grotto has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Myford cross slide bearing mod|
I haven't got a mill, so mod will have to be done on the lathe (as shown on Arc Euro site). It doesn't look too difficult.
I'm also not sure I have the required experience or skill to make a new on from scratch, even if I had a mill, maybe one day...
I may keep an eye out for a housing online, as I'm nervous If it goes wrong I'll end up in a worse position, as getting a replacement down here would be difficult & expensive
Will also check if the housing on my vertical slide is interchangeable.
Thanks for the advice
I was wondering if anyone had fitted the arc euro Myford ML7 Cross Slide Leadscrew Thrust Bearing Modification?
I've got a reasonable amount of back lash and as thought this may help, but wondered if anyone had tried it?
|Thread: Drawer Liners|
I've used cork floor tile (4mm thick) which I had leftover, and some billiard table felt which someone was going to chuck out.
I used some thin leather once, but something in it reacted with the spanners causing them to rust and stick to the leather.
|Thread: Myford rear toolpost|
I'm not blaming/dogging the seller, but the whole unit came as a package specific for the ML7.
I reckon this would be a good solution, but I'm not confident I'd get the angle/width exact enough. Maybe if I had more experience
Both ends give the same height unfortunately
Thanks for all the helpful comments.
The parting tool, inserts, and toolpost were a package deal, so I don't think that changing the parting tool will fix the issue.
Unfortunately I couldn't find a supplier here in NZ to get the item from, otherwise it would be easy to fix.
I'll ask around and see if I can find someone local with a mill who can have a crack at it. I've been meaning to go along to the Model Engineering club for ages, so this is a good incentive.
Supplier has offered a refund or exchange, but wants the toolpost back to see if it's out of spec., so can't really complain too much about service.
It works very well despite being 2mm high, which surprised me, as 2mm off centre on the front tool post would not work at all.
The bottom of the toolpost isn't flat, so I can't face off 2mm in the 4 jaw.
I can't file the parting tool as it fits tightly in the slot in the toolpost.
I may be able to use a flycutter, will have to make one and have a try on some scrap first. I'm a bit nervous about taking some of the ridge which fits snugly in the slot on the cross slide.
I don't have access to a mill and don't fell confident about doing it on the lathe, so will have to get an engineering shop to do it.
If the issue is with the toolpost it will be easier/cheaper to get a replacement.
I recently purchased a rear toolpost to solve my issues with parting off.
It arrived from the UK, and works very well, but the tip of the parting insert sits about 2mm above centre, so work is not completely parted (it leaves around 4mm nipple).
I've contacted the supplier and they've offered a refund or replacement, but I'll have to post it back, which is reasonably expensive and slow.
Can someone let me know what the distance from top of cross slide to centre should be on an ML7 - I'm trying to work out if the issue is with my lathe or the toolpost. I've measured the distance from top of cross slide to parting tip and it's about 2.1".
If the issue is the toolpost I'll get a replacement, if the issue is my lathe, I'll see if I can get a couple of mm milled off the base of the toolpost.
|Thread: Parting tool for ML7|
Thanks for all the helpful replies.
Based on the positive comments from users of the kit-q-cut I'm planning on ordering one of those.
I'll look at getting a rear tool post for parting larger diameter rods which I do occasionally.
As an aside, I tightened/adjusted the jib screws on my lathe yesterday, and it seems to be parting better with my current tool, so I reckon that was part of the problem.
Thanks for the advice.
I don't have a long top slide, just the standard one. Would this mean I would have to remove the rear tool post when it's not in use?
I did think about the Hemmingway kit, but don't have a mill, and I'm not 100% confident I'd make a good job of it.
I'm tossing up if I should get the Kit-q-cut, or a rear toolpost with replaceable tips.
thanksThe old thread I read talked about rear toolpost for parting, but a few people reckoned if you had a decent parting tool you didn't need to go down that road.
I've never used a rear toolpost and don't know anything about them, other Han you use them for parting.
Are they used for anything else?
Are they a hassle to set up (do you leave them on, or have to remove them when not in use)?
If I'm going down that road, what's a good model to get?
Found an old thread on here which had a load of good info.
Kit-Q-Cut seemed to be rated highly, another (less expensive) option is the Glanz from RDG.
Anyone know if the Kit-Q much better?.
I'll check of I can get replacement tips here in NZ.
I've got a Myford ML7 with QC tool post.
I've tried a few (inexpensive) parting tools, and one medium priced (replaceable carbide insert), but am stil not getting good cuts in anything over 15mm in mild steel. I think everything else is OK, and it's just the tool that is causing the issue.
Can anyone recommend a decent holder/blade?
Although my tool holders take 12mm tools, I can't get them low enough to be at centre height (had to mill a couple of mm of my indexable tool).
|Thread: Mystery Tool- What is it?|
Looks like it has a specific use, and wondered if anyone knows what that is?
|Thread: White spirit in cutting/tapping oil recipe ?|
Here in NZ white spirits has been marketed under numerous names by the oil companies. We had Shellite, Calite, and a few others.
You should be able to get it at Bunnings, they sell it as "Diggers Shellite" and "Fuelite". It's used in Coleman lanterns and stoves (Coleman do their own but I can't recall what they call it).
It's pretty much same as petrol with no additives (which may clean your engine, but block your lantern or stove).
Quite different from Turps, as it evaporates leaving nothing behind, whereas turps leaves an oily residue.
I'll give your recipe a try, as it will be way less expensive than tapping fluid.
|Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion|
My 1969 Triumph Trophy is sort of oil tight since its rebuild. Only problem is the alloy head seems to be sponge-like. Doesn't leak oil from any of the joints, but it's become porous from age, and weeps small amounts of oil where there are no joints. Not uncommon apparently.
|Thread: A & R Precision 'Dickson' Toolpost -- Screws Used|
My A&R holders seem to fit well with he tool post, maybe I'm just lucky, or possibly their standards slipped before they went into receivership (I bought mine a couple of years ago, although only recently got it).
I see RDG now have holders which will drop lower than the the Myford/A&R ones. I may try one of those as I have a few tools which fit in the standard holders, but won't drop low enough to get tip at centre height (been grinding a few mm off the bottom of the tools).
RDG said they were not familiar with the A&R tool posts so couldn't confirm their holders would fit. It's a bit of a hassle as I can't check (being in NZ).
Thanks, I'm guessing it's Type T00M. Rotagrip quote 58mm across by 37mm high. Mine is 56.5mm by 35mm. Also Rotagrip give measurement "A" as 48mm mine is 44.3mm.
I may try eith Myford or RDG holders (RDG seem much cheaper-reflection of quality?). Locally the seem to be around NZ$100 (40 pounds) each which will limit the number I can afford.
I'll check a couple of other places here in case they have better prices, as it would be good to know they fit well.
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