Here is a list of all the postings Grotto has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion|
My 1969 Triumph Trophy is sort of oil tight since its rebuild. Only problem is the alloy head seems to be sponge-like. Doesn't leak oil from any of the joints, but it's become porous from age, and weeps small amounts of oil where there are no joints. Not uncommon apparently.
|Thread: A & R Precision 'Dickson' Toolpost -- Screws Used|
My A&R holders seem to fit well with he tool post, maybe I'm just lucky, or possibly their standards slipped before they went into receivership (I bought mine a couple of years ago, although only recently got it).
I see RDG now have holders which will drop lower than the the Myford/A&R ones. I may try one of those as I have a few tools which fit in the standard holders, but won't drop low enough to get tip at centre height (been grinding a few mm off the bottom of the tools).
RDG said they were not familiar with the A&R tool posts so couldn't confirm their holders would fit. It's a bit of a hassle as I can't check (being in NZ).
Thanks, I'm guessing it's Type T00M. Rotagrip quote 58mm across by 37mm high. Mine is 56.5mm by 35mm. Also Rotagrip give measurement "A" as 48mm mine is 44.3mm.
I may try eith Myford or RDG holders (RDG seem much cheaper-reflection of quality?). Locally the seem to be around NZ$100 (40 pounds) each which will limit the number I can afford.
I'll check a couple of other places here in case they have better prices, as it would be good to know they fit well.
Rather disappointing A&R are not around anymore.
I seriously underestimated how many holders you can need when I bought a tool post from them and now to get some more.
Does anyone know what size the A&R Dixon style tool posts are? I'm trying to track down some holders out here in New Zealand, but am not sure on the size (I think it's S00).
Other option is to get some from Myford or RDG (not sure if RDG ones fit).
|Thread: projects for kids|
My 10 year old daughter made a pen.
Nothing flash, just a piece of rod bored to take a Bic refil, knurled, and threaded at each end, with brass end caps.
She's pretty pleased with it.
|Thread: Cutting threads with die|
Thanks, lots of useful advice which is really helpful.
I think I may need to invest in some better quality metric dies. I have an old set of non-split questionable quality ones, which I seem to have most problems with. I have a few good quality split ones which don't appear to cause the same issues (same with my imperial ones).
Interestingly, external threads I cut with my low quality dies work fine with shop bought nuts, but not with pieces I've tapped (using decent quality sharp taps).
I'm wondering if there is a chart for determining the correct diameter required for cutting a thread using a die.
I've found plenty of info. On the correct hole to drill for tapping, but none of the charts I have seem to tell you the correct diameter a rod should be to cut an outside thread.
Currently if I wish to cut a 6mm thread on a piece of rod, I find a 6mm screw and measure the external diameter of it, and the turn the rod to that diameter.
Works OK, but I figured the must be a chart (similar to the Drill & Tap Charts) or else some rule.
Also, I often find (particularly on larger threads) that I can't get the die to bite, and just end up reducing the diameter of the first mm or so of rod, rather than cutting a thread. I've been getting around this by tapering the first 3 mm of rod before threading, and then facing off the taper after thread is cut. Is this an OK solution or is there a better method? I've been using a die holder in the tail stock.
|Thread: Myford ML7 questions|
For now I'll just half fill the reservoirs, and Cleese the drip feed when not using (if I can remember).
If I forget, it's only a few mls of oil ending up in the drip tray.
|Thread: How to get a better Finish|
Hang in there Dave.
I'm also a beginner and have the same issues but am getting better.
I was moaning to a friend about it, and he reminded me that he'd done years of 5.5 days a week as an apprentice and I shouldn't expect to to be an expert after a few hours work.
I get a lot more pleasure from good work because it's not easy.
|Thread: Myford ML7 questions|
There is a 1.5mm diameter hole in each of the sight glasses...
Should these holes not be there? (I've never looked for them on other Myfords, and didn't notice them on mine until the oil started leaking out).
I could block the holes easily.
My drip feeders don't have a lever, just a knurled screw which controls the needle valve. If I screw it up the drips stop.
The hassle is when I forget, the reservoir empties through the hole in the sight glass (happened again today when I ran to answer the phone).
I have the original handbook which came with it "Operation, installation, maintenance also pictorial parts" but it's not very detailed (no mention of the Allen head bolt in the bull gear needing to be loosened to operate the back gear).
I have a few books on lathes but they are all general rather than Myford specific.
I've seen one by Ian Bradley "Myford Series 7 Manual" - is this any good, or can you recommend a decent one?
Sorted the back gear question, I didn't realise how it worked until I had a go.
I've finally got my ML7 running (yet to set the motor reversing but that can wait).
A coup,e of questions...
1- The sight glasses on the drip feed oilers each have a small hole in them. If I leave the the needle valve open, the reservoir empties, the oil having leaked out of the sight glass through the holes. At present I'm closing the needle valves when not using the lathe, but wondered if the sight glasses are meant to be o have holes. Seems a little odd, and I know at some point I'll forget to close needle valves when I've finished working (or forget to open them when I start).
2- Back Gear; I've read through some old threads and solved the problem I had with the back gear locking the spindle (discovered I need to loosen the Allen head bolt on the bull gear). My question is - how much do I losses it, do I remove it, or will it fall out if it's just loose?
|Thread: A&R Precision tool Post|
I'll drill out the bush so it fits tightly on the tool post bolt.
I may have a go at making an all in one full depth one.
I bought a quick change tool post for my ML7 awhile back and just got around to trying to fit it.
It came with 2 stepped spacers, and 1 tubular spacer.
Edited By Grotto on 31/08/2015 06:15:36
|Thread: Wiring A Dewhurst Switch-Single Phase|
Had a go at pulling the 4 wires out, and wiring up.
worked forwards but looked like there was a fireworks display going on inside the motor.
reverse blew the trip switch.
I've put it back to standard and will just use the lathe without reverse until I get a more suitable motor.
thanks for the help, I'll be back!
Thanks Les, really appreciate the advice
the resistance of the black wires is around 3.8 ohms.
the green wires don't appear to form a circuit(?) as resistance doesn't read.
I'll have a better look in the morning
The Gryphon motor is 1.25 hp which seems a little grunty for an ML7, it 's also 2850 rpm which may (?) cause issues (not sure about this.
The other motor (Gill & Son) is 1,450rpm which is what my 3 phase one was. I don't think it's capacitor start (no visible capcitor).
I've undone the wires on the Gill motor and it looks like there is (just) enough length to attach them to a connector block.
I have a multi meter, but am not sure how to test which are main winding & which are auxiliary. At present, one black and one green attach to each of the terminals (there are 2 green wires & 2 black).
On the Gryphon motor the capcitor wires (bottom right of photo) attach Black to A1, and Red to Z1. The power input wires attach Red to A1, and Black to A2.
I'm wondering if it would be best to use a different (single phase) motor.
I have a Gryphon on my bench saw which is 3/4 h.p. and has 4 terminals (A1, A2, Z1, Z2)
It's capcitor start, but still not sure how to wire it as at present live and neutral (form power source) only go to 2 terminals
Further to my previous post (year or so ago)...
I've had a good trawl on the net, and have found numerous pages showing how to do this, but I think I must lack the knowledge to understand.
I'm replacing my 3 phase motor with a single phase (looked at getting 3 phase but way too expensive, 3 phase motor is not the correct type to run single phase).
I have a single phase motor (0.6 hp, type BSP) which only has two terminals.
All the diagrams I've seen for wiring motor to Dewhurst have more terminals.
Should I be separating the wires?
Any help would be appreciated, as I even tried getting an electrician to sort it but he said he didn't know what to do.
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