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Member postings for Grotto

Here is a list of all the postings Grotto has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion
11/11/2015 08:24:50

My 1969 Triumph Trophy is sort of oil tight since its rebuild. Only problem is the alloy head seems to be sponge-like. Doesn't leak oil from any of the joints, but it's become porous from age, and weeps small amounts of oil where there are no joints. Not uncommon apparently.

Thread: A & R Precision 'Dickson' Toolpost -- Screws Used
03/10/2015 22:47:15

My A&R holders seem to fit well with he tool post, maybe I'm just lucky, or possibly their standards slipped before they went into receivership (I bought mine a couple of years ago, although only recently got it).

I see RDG now have holders which will drop lower than the the Myford/A&R ones. I may try one of those as I have a few tools which fit in the standard holders, but won't drop low enough to get tip at centre height (been grinding a few mm off the bottom of the tools).

RDG said they were not familiar with the A&R tool posts so couldn't confirm their holders would fit. It's a bit of a hassle as I can't check (being in NZ).

03/10/2015 00:57:11

Thanks, I'm guessing it's Type T00M. Rotagrip quote 58mm across by 37mm high. Mine is 56.5mm by 35mm. Also Rotagrip give measurement "A" as 48mm mine is 44.3mm.

I may try eith Myford or RDG holders (RDG seem much cheaper-reflection of quality?). Locally the seem to be around NZ$100 (40 pounds) each which will limit the number I can afford.

I'll check a couple of other places here in case they have better prices, as it would be good to know they fit well.

02/10/2015 10:31:03

Rather disappointing A&R are not around anymore.

I seriously underestimated how many holders you can need when I bought a tool post from them and now to get some more.

Does anyone know what size the A&R Dixon style tool posts are? I'm trying to track down some holders out here in New Zealand, but am not sure on the size (I think it's S00).

Other option is to get some from Myford or RDG (not sure if RDG ones fit).

Thread: projects for kids
24/09/2015 04:53:06

My 10 year old daughter made a pen.

Nothing flash, just a piece of rod bored to take a Bic refil, knurled, and threaded at each end, with brass end caps.

She's pretty pleased with it.

Thread: Cutting threads with die
08/09/2015 05:14:51

Thanks, lots of useful advice which is really helpful.

I think I may need to invest in some better quality metric dies. I have an old set of non-split questionable quality ones, which I seem to have most problems with. I have a few good quality split ones which don't appear to cause the same issues (same with my imperial ones).

Interestingly, external threads I cut with my low quality dies work fine with shop bought nuts, but not with pieces I've tapped (using decent quality sharp taps).

07/09/2015 21:52:05

Hi Again

I'm wondering if there is a chart for determining the correct diameter required for cutting a thread using a die.

I've found plenty of info. On the correct hole to drill for tapping, but none of the charts I have seem to tell you the correct diameter a rod should be to cut an outside thread.

Currently if I wish to cut a 6mm thread on a piece of rod, I find a 6mm screw and measure the external diameter of it, and the turn the rod to that diameter.

Works OK, but I figured the must be a chart (similar to the Drill & Tap Charts) or else some rule.

Also, I often find (particularly on larger threads) that I can't get the die to bite, and just end up reducing the diameter of the first mm or so of rod, rather than cutting a thread. I've been getting around this by tapering the first 3 mm of rod before threading, and then facing off the taper after thread is cut. Is this an OK solution or is there a better method? I've been using a die holder in the tail stock.

Thanks

Thread: Myford ML7 questions
07/09/2015 21:39:20

Thanks!

For now I'll just half fill the reservoirs, and Cleese the drip feed when not using (if I can remember).

If I forget, it's only a few mls of oil ending up in the drip tray.

Thread: How to get a better Finish
07/09/2015 21:34:03
Posted by Dave Harding 1 on 31/08/2015 23:12:50:

I spent a day in the shed I tried power feed carbide and HSS lots of different speeds and feeds my scrap bin is overflowing.

I think I need to find another hobby.

Hang in there Dave.

I'm also a beginner and have the same issues but am getting better.

I was moaning to a friend about it, and he reminded me that he'd done years of 5.5 days a week as an apprentice and I shouldn't expect to to be an expert after a few hours work.

I get a lot more pleasure from good work because it's not easy.

Thread: Myford ML7 questions
06/09/2015 10:25:17
Posted by KWIL on 06/09/2015 09:44:01:

There are holes in the sight glases? Where abouts?

If you leave the levers in the "ON" position, the oil will continue to drip feed just as it does when you are using the lathe, Turn them to the "OFF" postion after use. If you forget you are just wasting the oil and getting an extra mess to clear up.

There is a 1.5mm diameter hole in each of the sight glasses...

image.jpg

Should these holes not be there? (I've never looked for them on other Myfords, and didn't notice them on mine until the oil started leaking out).

I could block the holes easily.

My drip feeders don't have a lever, just a knurled screw which controls the needle valve. If I screw it up the drips stop.

The hassle is when I forget, the reservoir empties through the hole in the sight glass (happened again today when I ran to answer the phone).

06/09/2015 07:36:26

I have the original handbook which came with it "Operation, installation, maintenance also pictorial parts" but it's not very detailed (no mention of the Allen head bolt in the bull gear needing to be loosened to operate the back gear).

I have a few books on lathes but they are all general rather than Myford specific.

I've seen one by Ian Bradley "Myford Series 7 Manual" - is this any good, or can you recommend a decent one?

Thanks

06/09/2015 06:14:33

Sorted the back gear question, I didn't realise how it worked until I had a go.

06/09/2015 01:51:20

Hi all

I've finally got my ML7 running (yet to set the motor reversing but that can wait).

A coup,e of questions...

1- The sight glasses on the drip feed oilers each have a small hole in them. If I leave the the needle valve open, the reservoir empties, the oil having leaked out of the sight glass through the holes. At present I'm closing the needle valves when not using the lathe, but wondered if the sight glasses are meant to be o have holes. Seems a little odd, and I know at some point I'll forget to close needle valves when I've finished working (or forget to open them when I start).

2- Back Gear; I've read through some old threads and solved the problem I had with the back gear locking the spindle (discovered I need to loosen the Allen head bolt on the bull gear). My question is - how much do I losses it, do I remove it, or will it fall out if it's just loose?

Thanks!

Thread: A&R Precision tool Post
31/08/2015 09:43:08

Thanks,

I'll drill out the bush so it fits tightly on the tool post bolt.

I may have a go at making an all in one full depth one.

31/08/2015 06:06:34

dsc06953.jpgdsc06952.jpg

Hi all

 

I bought a quick change tool post for my ML7 awhile back and just got around to trying to fit it.

It came with 2 stepped spacers, and 1 tubular spacer.
I'm not sure where the spacers go. 1 stepped spacer and the tubular one are too small to go over the tool post bolt on my ML7, 1 stepped spacer fits on the thread of my tool post bolt, but won't fit all the way to the bottom.
Should I drill/ream the tubular spacer to fit my bolt and just use 1 stepped spacer on the top?
Thanks

Edited By Grotto on 31/08/2015 06:15:36

Thread: Wiring A Dewhurst Switch-Single Phase
31/08/2015 05:23:03

Had a go at pulling the 4 wires out, and wiring up.

worked forwards but looked like there was a fireworks display going on inside the motor.

reverse blew the trip switch.

I've put it back to standard and will just use the lathe without reverse until I get a more suitable motor.

thanks for the help, I'll be back!

25/08/2015 11:10:03

Thanks Les, really appreciate the advice

the resistance of the black wires is around 3.8 ohms.

the green wires don't appear to form a circuit(?) as resistance doesn't read.

I'll have a better look in the morning

25/08/2015 00:45:48

Thanks

The Gryphon motor is 1.25 hp which seems a little grunty for an ML7, it 's also 2850 rpm which may (?) cause issues (not sure about this.

The other motor (Gill & Son) is 1,450rpm which is what my 3 phase one was. I don't think it's capacitor start (no visible capcitor).

I've undone the wires on the Gill motor and it looks like there is (just) enough length to attach them to a connector block.

I have a multi meter, but am not sure how to test which are main winding & which are auxiliary. At present, one black and one green attach to each of the terminals (there are 2 green wires & 2 black).

dsc06951.jpg

On the Gryphon motor the capcitor wires (bottom right of photo) attach Black to A1, and Red to Z1. The power input wires attach Red to A1, and Black to A2.

dsc06950.jpg

24/08/2015 07:01:54

I'm wondering if it would be best to use a different (single phase) motor.

I have a Gryphon on my bench saw which is 3/4 h.p. and has 4 terminals (A1, A2, Z1, Z2)

dsc06947.jpgdsc06948.jpg

It's capcitor start, but still not sure how to wire it as at present live and neutral (form power source) only go to 2 terminals

24/08/2015 05:18:58

Further to my previous post (year or so ago)...

I've had a good trawl on the net, and have found numerous pages showing how to do this, but I think I must lack the knowledge to understand.

I'm replacing my 3 phase motor with a single phase (looked at getting 3 phase but way too expensive, 3 phase motor is not the correct type to run single phase).

I have a single phase motor (0.6 hp, type BSP) which only has two terminals.

dsc06945.jpg

dsc06946.jpg

All the diagrams I've seen for wiring motor to Dewhurst have more terminals.

Should I be separating the wires?

Any help would be appreciated, as I even tried getting an electrician to sort it but he said he didn't know what to do.

Thanks

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