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Member postings for Grotto

Here is a list of all the postings Grotto has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: RF-35 Mill/Drill
13/08/2018 04:49:52

img_3092.jpgI've been looking for a millimg machine for a couple of years. I was hoping to get a Bridgeport or similar, but the ones I can afford all seem to be extremely well used.

I've seen a Rong Fu RF-35 round column mill/drill which looks like it hasn't been abused, and has a verical power feed which appears to stop head rotating when it's adfjusted up/down (although I don't think the stuff I use it for will neccessitate this).

When I google RF-35 I only seem to get results for Radial Drills.

I wondered if anyoner had come across one of these, and if so are they any good?

Thanksimg_3091.jpg

Thread: Myford cross slide bearing mod
01/01/2018 02:14:03

Thanks for that,

I've ordered some bearings, and when they arrive will have a go at modifying cross slide & vertical slide.

Probably be back with a few questions!

29/12/2017 02:47:01

Checked the housing on my vertical nslide and it's a different size, so I guess that's not an option...

28/12/2017 23:57:07

I haven't got a mill, so mod will have to be done on the lathe (as shown on Arc Euro site). It doesn't look too difficult.

I'm also not sure I have the required experience or skill to make a new on from scratch, even if I had a mill, maybe one day...

I may keep an eye out for a housing online, as I'm nervous If it goes wrong I'll end up in a worse position, as getting a replacement down here would be difficult & expensive

Will also check if the housing on my vertical slide is interchangeable.

Thanks for the advice

27/12/2017 21:40:29

I was wondering if anyone had fitted the arc euro Myford ML7 Cross Slide Leadscrew Thrust Bearing Modification?

I've got a reasonable amount of back lash and as thought this may help, but wondered if anyone had tried it?

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/projects/MYF001/myford-cstb-mod.html

Thread: Drawer Liners
11/12/2017 05:44:37

I've used cork floor tile (4mm thick) which I had leftover, and some billiard table felt which someone was going to chuck out.

I used some thin leather once, but something in it reacted with the spanners causing them to rust and stick to the leather.

Thread: Myford rear toolpost
15/12/2015 00:58:49

Posted by Ian Hewson on 14/12/2015 10:15:37:

Hi IanT

Never said it was the wrong tool for the job, just wrong tool for the toolholder.

The holder is not designed for that particular tool, not the fault of the seller unless they said it would fit.

I'm not blaming/dogging the seller, but the whole unit came as a package specific for the ML7.

15/12/2015 00:56:04
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 14/12/2015 13:46:06:

This is just musing, but perhaps altering the parting tool something like this could drop the height by 2mm whilst keeping the fit in the toolholder. I have probably exaggerated the angle, and I realise that it will change the angles at the tooltip, but less work than modifying the holder.

parting.jpg.

I reckon this would be a good solution, but I'm not confident I'd get the angle/width exact enough. Maybe if I had more experience

15/12/2015 00:53:04
Posted by Hopper on 14/12/2015 04:22:55:

Have you tried using the other end of the parting tool holder? The notch may be in a slightly different position. Or a different carbide insert?

Both ends give the same height unfortunately

13/12/2015 21:47:41

Thanks for all the helpful comments.

The parting tool, inserts, and toolpost were a package deal, so I don't think that changing the parting tool will fix the issue.

Unfortunately I couldn't find a supplier here in NZ to get the item from, otherwise it would be easy to fix.

I'll ask around and see if I can find someone local with a mill who can have a crack at it. I've been meaning to go along to the Model Engineering club for ages, so this is a good incentive.

Supplier has offered a refund or exchange, but wants the toolpost back to see if it's out of spec., so can't really complain too much about service.

It works very well despite being 2mm high, which surprised me, as 2mm off centre on the front tool post would not work at all.

13/12/2015 09:46:31

The bottom of the toolpost isn't flat, so I can't face off 2mm in the 4 jaw.

image.jpg

I can't file the parting tool as it fits tightly in the slot in the toolpost.

I may be able to use a flycutter, will have to make one and have a try on some scrap first. I'm a bit nervous about taking some of the ridge which fits snugly in the slot on the cross slide.

13/12/2015 00:50:29

Thanks,

I don't have access to a mill and don't fell confident about doing it on the lathe, so will have to get an engineering shop to do it.

If the issue is with the toolpost it will be easier/cheaper to get a replacement.

13/12/2015 00:28:56

image.jpgimage.jpgHi All

I recently purchased a rear toolpost to solve my issues with parting off.

It arrived from the UK, and works very well, but the tip of the parting insert sits about 2mm above centre, so work is not completely parted (it leaves around 4mm nipple).

I've contacted the supplier and they've offered a refund or replacement, but I'll have to post it back, which is reasonably expensive and slow.

Can someone let me know what the distance from top of cross slide to centre should be on an ML7 - I'm trying to work out if the issue is with my lathe or the toolpost. I've measured the distance from top of cross slide to parting tip and it's about 2.1".

If the issue is the toolpost I'll get a replacement, if the issue is my lathe, I'll see if I can get a couple of mm milled off the base of the toolpost.

image.jpg

Thread: Parting tool for ML7
23/11/2015 19:23:05

Thanks for all the helpful replies.

Based on the positive comments from users of the kit-q-cut I'm planning on ordering one of those.

I'll look at getting a rear tool post for parting larger diameter rods which I do occasionally.

As an aside, I tightened/adjusted the jib screws on my lathe yesterday, and it seems to be parting better with my current tool, so I reckon that was part of the problem.

22/11/2015 00:44:19

Thanks for the advice.

I don't have a long top slide, just the standard one. Would this mean I would have to remove the rear tool post when it's not in use?

I did think about the Hemmingway kit, but don't have a mill, and I'm not 100% confident I'd make a good job of it.

I'm tossing up if I should get the Kit-q-cut, or a rear toolpost with replaceable tips.

21/11/2015 02:45:30

thanksThe old thread I read talked about rear toolpost for parting, but a few people reckoned if you had a decent parting tool you didn't need to go down that road.

I've never used a rear toolpost and don't know anything about them, other Han you use them for parting.

Are they used for anything else?

Are they a hassle to set up (do you leave them on, or have to remove them when not in use)?

If I'm going down that road, what's a good model to get?

21/11/2015 00:39:42

Found an old thread on here which had a load of good info.

Kit-Q-Cut seemed to be rated highly, another (less expensive) option is the Glanz from RDG.

Anyone know if the Kit-Q much better?.

I'll check of I can get replacement tips here in NZ.

20/11/2015 06:07:34

I've got a Myford ML7 with QC tool post.

I've tried a few (inexpensive) parting tools, and one medium priced (replaceable carbide insert), but am stil not getting good cuts in anything over 15mm in mild steel. I think everything else is OK, and it's just the tool that is causing the issue.

Can anyone recommend a decent holder/blade?

Although my tool holders take 12mm tools, I can't get them low enough to be at centre height (had to mill a couple of mm of my indexable tool).

Thread: Mystery Tool- What is it?
16/11/2015 06:58:49

dsc07046.jpgdsc07045.jpgdsc07044.jpgI bought this awhile ago, partly because the dial gauge is more accurarate than my other, but mainly because I liked the look of it.

Looks like it has a specific use, and wondered if anyone knows what that is?

dsc07043.jpg

Thread: White spirit in cutting/tapping oil recipe ?
11/11/2015 08:34:20

Here in NZ white spirits has been marketed under numerous names by the oil companies. We had Shellite, Calite, and a few others.

You should be able to get it at Bunnings, they sell it as "Diggers Shellite" and "Fuelite". It's used in Coleman lanterns and stoves (Coleman do their own but I can't recall what they call it).

It's pretty much same as petrol with no additives (which may clean your engine, but block your lantern or stove).

Quite different from Turps, as it evaporates leaving nothing behind, whereas turps leaves an oily residue.

I'll give your recipe a try, as it will be way less expensive than tapping fluid.

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