Here is a list of all the postings Grotto has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Chuck out of true|
I’ve checked out the “area of interest” and there may be a minor “groove” but no raised area.
I used a lever DTI on the register, photo shows maximum variation...
I'll have a go at polishing register with some very fine wet & dry & cutting fluid.
I just happened to be given some round bar the right size for a back plate, so may have a go at making a new one. Not overly confident, but it'll be good practice.
Managed to get some time today, so pulled the chuck apart. No significant swarf, but gave it a good clean and lube and put it back together.
It looks like some swarf has got between the scroll plate & chuck at some stage, but I don’t think this would cause issues.
Thanks again for all the help!
Unfortunately I’m located in Auckland NZ, so guess it’s not so handy for someone to drop around.
I do change chucks every so often, I didn’t appreciate they should be scrupulously clean (should have), and can’t swear it hasn’t been bumped ( hadn’t been dropped). I haven’t had any major crashes, but have had a few dig ins when parting. May have bumped the register?
no offence taken by any suggestions of mistreatment or carelessness, I tend to learn best by making mistakes and am learning to slow down and clean up, but limited time and space makes it hard.
i have pulled the chuck apart, no sign of any swarf in the gears, but will give it a good clean tomorrow (work & family have prevented me from putting in any workshop time today.
JohnF - what type of clock - dial would I need to check register TIR?
I'll investigate the “region of interest” tomorrow.
I’ll avoid removing any metal in the short term, that would be a last resort, can’t see that route leading me anywhere other than getting a replacement.
Here’s a photo of back plate thread...
Thanks for all the help
John F - Good point about where the indicator stalk is on the head stock. I did it again against the register and there’s no movement in the gauge.
also checked the back plate on the outer edge. Photo shows maximum...
The back plate came with the lathe & chuck. It came from a retired engineer who’d had it in his home workshop. He was real precious about it, wouldn’t let his middle aged sons touch it (they’d both done fitter/turner apprenticeship) in case they damaged it. It looks very well made (better than I could do). It previously ran true, I’m not sure when it went out as I had several months away from the workshop. I was initially think all the round stock I had was oval (I’m a real beginner).
Howard - the 4 jaw screws on fine, it’s only the 3 jaw & face plate which are tight.
I put the backing plate on back wards, and tried the indicator on that...
I found some time today so had a go at sorting the issues.
I was thinking it was the thread on the face plate since the 4 jaw goes on fine, but based on what Mick B1 has said that may not be the case.
i gave the head stock & backing plate threads a good clean, and the 3 jaw & face plate both fit better, although tighter than I recall.
I used an indicator on the edge & face of the face plate....
photos show maximum variation. Edge is true, face is a bit out
Indicator on head stock is OK
Indicator on backing plate is not so good
Indicator on 3 jaw with a 10mm dowel is way out
I've pulled the back plate off the chuck. It doesn’t want to thread on to the head stock either front or rear first.
I was sure it was dirty threads in back plate as the 4 jaw goes on fine, but have tried screwing my face plate on and that is also tight.
Weekend was busy so didn’t get much time in the workshop, but have set up the change wheels to 12 tpi and will run an internal thread tool through (turning by hand) this evening. I've tried cleaning thread using a thread gauge, but that didn’t seem to make much difference. I can’t see any obvious swarf in the tread, but there is one point where thread may be a little damaged.
the thread on the head stock looks perfect, but as the face plate & 3 jaw are both tight maybe I being deceived.
I was a bit nervous about pulling the back plate off in case I couldn’t get it back on true, but guess as it’s unusable as is there’s nothing to lose.
I haven’t dropped the chuck, suspect it got fitted with swarf in the threads by either myself or my son.
when screwing the chuck on, it gets tight before it’s fully on, so think the tread is a bit damaged. I don’t have a tap big enough to fit the thread, maybe put the back plate on the face plate and have a go at threading on the lathe?
After several items I turned on my ML7 turned out bad I’ve discovered my 3 jaw chuck is not running true.
when I removed it I noticed that it was very tight on the head stock thread. I’ve pulled the jaws out and inspected them, they look fine.
I've put a dial gauge against the flange on the head stock and that's perfect. I've been using ER collets since I realised the 3 jaw was dodgy and they seem fine.
I suspect that some swarf has got into the tread of the 3 jaw and is causing it to run off centre. I've cleaned the internal thread on the 3 jaw backing plate as best I can but it's still tight when I try to fit it (4 jaw goes on fine).
Any ideas on how best to cure the problem?
The positive from this is that I've got really quick setting up the 4 jaw. I'd be fine continuing with the 4 jaw but it’s no good for turning hex stock.
|Thread: Setting wheel train on ML7|
Turned out to be less difficult than I’d anticipated.
Thread isn’t pretty or precise, but works fine. I had threaded the inside of some ancient conduit using a 1/4*19 tpi tap, and needed to cut a thread on a bar to fit in it but had no die. I think I cut the tread a little too deep on the lathe, but l feel more confident for my next effort.
managed to get it sorted.
I didn’t appreciate you needed to loosen the 2 nuts holding the banjo(?) at the end of the lead screw.
I suspect that setting the change wheels may the easiest part of the operation. I’ve always shyed away from cutting threads using the the lathe, preferring to use taps & dies, but don’t have the correct die for what I need to do so will give it a go.
I've finally decided to have a go at cutting an external thread on my ML7, but am stuck before I've even started. Hope I don’t sound too stupid....
I need to cut a 19 tpi external thread.
I've consulted Ian Bradley's Myford manual and sorted out my change wheels, but am a bit stumped as to what goes where and how to fit them so they mesh.
I need to use Set Up 2 according to the chart, and have the 40 tooth as the Driver, but can’t work out which shaft takes the driver.
I've got the 50 tooth on the lead screw.
I've got the 55 tooth on the 2nd Stud (do I need to adjust the shaft so it meshes with the 50 on the lead screw?)
I've got the 38 as the driven, & the 20 as the driver on the 1st Stud (do I need to adjust the shaft so the driver meshes with 55 on the 2nd Stud?).
I've put the 40 where I guess the driver should be.
i can’t seem to get all gears to mesh.
I can get lead screw, first Stud, & second Stud to mesh, but can’t get driver to mesh with first Stud?
I'll try to add a photo
Edited By Grotto on 25/07/2019 10:45:02
|Thread: Plan/Design for spanner roll?|
I got my daughter to make one out of leather. The scanners rusted quite quickly (within a month or so) and stuck to the leather. My have been due to the tanning process (was leather from a bag I’d bought in Morocco). Probably residual chemicals from tanning process reacting with metal.
|Thread: Help making Radius Turner|
Found some time today to do some more work on this.
finally realised that the photos in the article must include Mk1 & Mk2 versions. 2 of the photos don't agree with plans which had me stumped - plans are for a 2 piece tool holder, photos are 1 piece. I spent some time thinking measurements must be wrong as didn’t fit with scale of plans dimensions. I’m unsure if 1 or 2 piece tool holder is best, but will build a 2 piece and see how it works.
I like the idea of being able to set centre and radius using the gauge peg, it was a little hit & miss with my old one
Thanks, I had a go at making a carbide inserts one as in the link, but wasn’t happy with how it turned out. I think I didn’t put enough thought in to adapting it for an ML7 and made the rotating disk too thick, so had to make tool holder lower which limited the size of balls I could make.
came across this one reading some old ME's so thought I’d give it a go. I'll probably make another when I've finished this one, may try to incorporate a bearing. I tend to find my first efforts never turn out quite as planned, but that’s half the fun.
i had a and a dig around and found a 1/2” BSB die which seems to work OK with a 1/2” Whitworth fine tap. I'm not sure what angle of BSB thread is but it feels like a good fit.
I'm having a go at building a radius turner from plans in ME #3896.
I'm not sure I understand the details of the Base Plate & Pivot Shaft.
The centre hole in the base plate is marked 1/2” * 26T, as is the pivot shaft which fits in this.
my question is....
does this mean both are threaded 1/2” * 26 tpi (presumably cycle thread)?
would it matter if I threaded UNF or BSF (I don't have a 26 tpi die).
|Thread: Easy Button Die Storage Solution|
I’ve had some tools which stored in wood have surface rusted (some R8 collets) and others which have not. I’ve never worked out what the difference is, maybe the type of wood? All the wood is well seasoned (over 100 years since the trees were felled). I know some of my Tap & Die sets came from the factory in wooden cases, but they look like they were oiled/varnished/sealed (hard to say as they’re pretty old). I now oil any wooden holders I make with linseed oil which has stopped any surface rust, but I’m not sure if the oil has any negative impact on the tools.
|Thread: A Very Nice Freebie|
I'm continually surprised by what gets thrown in skips, such a waste.
I recently retrieved a few face mills from a skip which were going to the recyclers (marginally better than going to landfill). 2 were brand new unused Kennametal, and the other was a 300mm Iscar complete with inserts (it'll probably just sit on the shelf but I couldn't bear to see it go to scrap).
|Thread: What taper is this?|
The length of taper is about 50mm
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