Here is a list of all the postings Grotto has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Plan/Design for spanner roll?|
I got my daughter to make one out of leather. The scanners rusted quite quickly (within a month or so) and stuck to the leather. My have been due to the tanning process (was leather from a bag I’d bought in Morocco). Probably residual chemicals from tanning process reacting with metal.
|Thread: Help making Radius Turner|
Found some time today to do some more work on this.
finally realised that the photos in the article must include Mk1 & Mk2 versions. 2 of the photos don't agree with plans which had me stumped - plans are for a 2 piece tool holder, photos are 1 piece. I spent some time thinking measurements must be wrong as didn’t fit with scale of plans dimensions. I’m unsure if 1 or 2 piece tool holder is best, but will build a 2 piece and see how it works.
I like the idea of being able to set centre and radius using the gauge peg, it was a little hit & miss with my old one
Thanks, I had a go at making a carbide inserts one as in the link, but wasn’t happy with how it turned out. I think I didn’t put enough thought in to adapting it for an ML7 and made the rotating disk too thick, so had to make tool holder lower which limited the size of balls I could make.
came across this one reading some old ME's so thought I’d give it a go. I'll probably make another when I've finished this one, may try to incorporate a bearing. I tend to find my first efforts never turn out quite as planned, but that’s half the fun.
i had a and a dig around and found a 1/2” BSB die which seems to work OK with a 1/2” Whitworth fine tap. I'm not sure what angle of BSB thread is but it feels like a good fit.
I'm having a go at building a radius turner from plans in ME #3896.
I'm not sure I understand the details of the Base Plate & Pivot Shaft.
The centre hole in the base plate is marked 1/2” * 26T, as is the pivot shaft which fits in this.
my question is....
does this mean both are threaded 1/2” * 26 tpi (presumably cycle thread)?
would it matter if I threaded UNF or BSF (I don't have a 26 tpi die).
|Thread: Easy Button Die Storage Solution|
I’ve had some tools which stored in wood have surface rusted (some R8 collets) and others which have not. I’ve never worked out what the difference is, maybe the type of wood? All the wood is well seasoned (over 100 years since the trees were felled). I know some of my Tap & Die sets came from the factory in wooden cases, but they look like they were oiled/varnished/sealed (hard to say as they’re pretty old). I now oil any wooden holders I make with linseed oil which has stopped any surface rust, but I’m not sure if the oil has any negative impact on the tools.
|Thread: A Very Nice Freebie|
I'm continually surprised by what gets thrown in skips, such a waste.
I recently retrieved a few face mills from a skip which were going to the recyclers (marginally better than going to landfill). 2 were brand new unused Kennametal, and the other was a 300mm Iscar complete with inserts (it'll probably just sit on the shelf but I couldn't bear to see it go to scrap).
|Thread: What taper is this?|
The length of taper is about 50mm
I'm unfamiliar with NT arbours having only seen photos, but it looks a bit like one.
|Thread: Should I have 3 phase supplied to my house?|
I looked at getting 3 phase into the house, but it was going to be minimum $12k (6,000 pounds) to get it to the switchboard.
Bought a rotary converter (4kw) for less than a sixth of the price which works great. I can also take the converter with me if I ever move.
If I’d got 3 phase in, I would have had to pay a monthly connection fee in addition to the one I pay for single phase.
There's a monopoly on power connections here in NZ so they can charge whatever they want.
|Thread: HSGT Taps|
I've been having a sort out in the workshop and have found a few taps marked “HSGT”.
the business end is gold, I’m not sure if this is relevant.
I wondered if anyone knows what HSGT stands for.
|Thread: Drill bits|
I recently bought a bunch of drill bits and when sorting through them found a few are left hand.
I'll be able to use them in my mill, but wondered why they are made. I guess there’s a good reason, just can’t think of it. Anyone know why?
|Thread: Unknown tool|
Patent no. 55237
Hmm, hadn’t thought about a night trip, would be cheaper but not by much (I reckon I’m only paying cents per kilo).
The power has been disconnected so it's all pretty dark, was using my phone for light yesterday. A cutting torch could be useful but there’s enough manageable stuff around to avoid cutting, although the surface plate I grabbed would have been around 60 kilos.
Just cleaned all the gunk off it and answered my own question.
It's marked “Concentric Knurling Tool” No makers name, just patent & serial numbers.
unfortunately the Morse taper is part of the tool, I was hoping I may be able to remove it and fit an MT2.
All welcome, but may take awhile to get here (it’s in NZ).
A large foundry/engineering company is closing down, and I bought a few hundred kilos of stuff from the demolition guys.
included was this tool, which looks like a knurling tool to fit in the tail stock, but I've not seen one before. I got two, one smaller than the other. Both are MT3 or MT4 so won’t fit my lathe, but I’ll hang onto them as I may get a larger lathe at some point.
Was really eerie wandering around the place (a few acres of factory). No lights, most stuff gone, just the furnaces. Conveyors, molds. and a bunch of bits and pieces. Going back tomorrow with a torch to see what else I can find
|Thread: "Screwing" a car round a corner!|
We used to do “left foot braking” in our FWD Minis. Hit the corner fast, turn the steering hard, and hit the brake whilst keeping the accelerator pressed down. Drive would keep front wheels turning (helped by fairly average front drum brakes), rear wheels would lock, break traction, and rear of the car would hang out. After a bit of practice it was fairly easy to control how much the rear hung out by adjusting pressure on the brake. Best done in the wet. Apparently it was common practice in rallying, I got put onto it by a mate who raced a Mini in rallys.
|Thread: Moving to Australia - Moving Workshop Machines|
Don’t take TV's with you. I’m not sure about Australia, but here in NZ the gap between picture and sound frequencies is different from the UK.
i ended up being able to tune into sound, or picture, but not both at the same time.
Also as Peter said, fridges don’t seem to last out here due to climate. Ours worked for about a month.
I bought a load of UK electrical plugs and sockets, and have most of my tools fitted with UK plugs which are more robust (& fused), and have UK sockets in the workshop. Any new tools I buy get their plugs replaced with UK ones.
When I moved from th UK to NZ, I ended up getting a container. The cost was about the same as shipping a few individual items. Went with a 40 foot one in the end, as the total cost wasn’t a lot more than a 20 foot, and it saved making tough decisions about what to take and what not to take. It also meant I had an excuse to buy a load more stuff as it wouldn’t have been sensible to send it only 3/4 full.
I've never regretted it, just wished I bought a few more tools before I left, as the selection on decent stuff here is more limited, and prices are much higher.
It's quite a lot of time and work trying to source decent quality replacement tools if you leave it behind, much better to keep the tools you know and trust.
you could always buy some stuff before you leave and sell it for more in Brisbane to subsidise the cost of a container.
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