Here is a list of all the postings Grotto has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Honda Brake Cable|
I buy innner & outer from a local cable shop and reuse the ends of the old cable (have made new ends once).
I think the outer may only come in black, but I've never tried to get grey.
SL125's were fun bikes, only ever road mine as a commuter but remember they were particularly good for wheel standing.
|Thread: Mills with tilting heads..?|
I've got a Bridgeport clone with a tilting head.
I don’t use the tilt often, but when I do I find it a great feature. I find it easier/quicker to set up work level on the bed, and tilt the head rather than set up the work on an angle.
tramming the mill afterwards isn’t anywhere near as much of a hassle as I thought it would be.
I wouldn’t say it’s an essential feature, but quite nice to have
|Thread: New lathe?|
Not successful. I guess someone needed it more than me.
I really need to clear out a load of stuff from my garage before I add any more equipment, so stopped bidding early.
it was for sale previously for $2,600 in their shop. Maybe they’ll do a few more auctions
My location has is Auckland, NZ, so I’ve had a look at the lathe.
bed seems to be good, only issues seem to be a bent had wheel on the tailstock, and hand wheel on top slide haven’t a bolt rather than the original.
I've been looking at upgrading my Myford ML7 for awhile, and have recently seen an Emco Maximat Super 11 (old version with 26mm bore).
It's been well used but seems to be in reasonable condition other than a couple of the hand wheels bent.
My question is, will this be significantly better than my Myford?
I don't do much big stuff, and find my current lathe has enough power for most jobs, and when it doesn't I just take lighter cuts.
Major improvements I can see are powered cross feed, scew cutting gearbox, faster speed, and not having do change belts in order to change speeds. Plus it's a V bed.
here's a link to the actual lathe I'm looking at...**LINK**
|Thread: Shell Petrol Can Puzzle|
I seem to recall my Seagull outboard ran 6-1 or 8-1.
|Thread: Spiral Flute Tap?|
Not sure why they say “1 tap needed”. I guess that’s true for tapping any hole, but I have spiral taps in starter & bottoming. If I’m tapping a through hole I only use the starter, but if hole is blind I’ll use both.
would be harder to start with the Axminster one.
|Thread: Stuck oil filter|
I've used these type...
work well in some really tight spaces if you can get an extension on.
Screw driver through filter also works well but in some cars you don’t have enough space to get in.
|Thread: Help milling an angle|
all & any advice is appreciated, I've lots to learn
I gave that endmill (1/4&rdquo a try as the end is really blunt, but sides are really sharp. I was prepared to have it snap, but only took light cuts (0.2 mm) and it performed well.
will use a larger one next time!
Well I finished it off. Just need to trim the punch holder to length.
works well on 1.6mm copper. I guess time will tell if it splits, but I didn’t have to put much pressure on it to fold the sheet, so I’m hoping not
not sure where the 3 came from, it was meant to be 1 mm max. I need a bigger phone or smaller fingers
most use will be on 1/2 mm copper but good to know it will handle 0.8mm
Thanks for the advice. I think I knew that but hadn’t thought about the need for tensile strength.
I'll go ahead with the cast iron as it’s all I’ve got on hand other than some aluminium alloy which is probably a bit soft. I’m only planning on folding thin sheet (3mm max) initially, and if it splits I'll chalk it up to experience.
Found some time today so set up the steel plate to mill the angle.
Sorry - don’t know how to rotate photos!
I used the side of a end mill I'd previously destroyed the end of - side was still as new so got a nice finish.
I did one side, then rotated work piece and started the other side. Soon discovered the vice was not 100% square - got a ten thou. flat at one end but 25 thou. at the other. Squared the vice and redid both sides and it turned out perfect (a novelty for me).
I've got a foot long bar of cast iron which I'll use for the other parts, as I don’t have any steel the correct size. So far I've just cut it into two 6” lengths after face milling the rough side.
Edited By Neil Wyatt on 29/08/2019 09:54:28
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Hopefully I'll get some time today to have a go.
Bob - I will split the 6” length into 3 pieces, but thought it easier to mill the angle on one length to make sure angle is consistent and only have to set it up once.
will let you know how I go.
I'm wanting to get a 60 degree angle on a piece of 1/4” steel like this....
The steel is 1/4” thick, 6” long, 2” wide. The angle is along the 6” edge.
I don’t have any angle plates but have a digital inclinometer. I don’t think it’s critical that the angle is precise.
The vice on my mill will open to a bit more than 4”
I'm unsure of the best way to clamp plate.
The head on my mill does tilt, but only to 45 degrees x axis. It will tilt to 60 degrees y axis but the vice won’t open wide enough to take steel that way. I guess I could clamp steel to the bed, but am wondering if there is a better way?
|Thread: Trip to New Zealand|
If you’re in Auckland, the model engineering society have a rail track they run weekends. Visitors are welcome at their meetings. I'm not a member but have been along a couple of times, nice guys, & interesting speakers at their meetings.
|Thread: 13 Practical Machining Projects|
Thanks, some interesting tools there, and plans are easy (for me to follow).
I may have a go at his vice brake, bending sheet metal in my vice never turns out well.
|Thread: Black Oxide coating|
I've been told used diesel oil is the best for this, haven't got around to trying it
|Thread: Chuck out of true|
Well I made a new back plate. Took an awfully long time as I hadn’t planned the operation as well as I should and had lots of set backs. Did it in the 4 jaw, made the register hole first, then cut the thread (leaving it in the chuck the whole time. Took the chuck off so I could test fit on register about 50 times as I was paranoid about making it too loose.
Result has exceeded all my expectations (which were pretty low). I was a bit worried about getting the holes in the back plate to line up with the chuck, but realised the holes in the original back plate were drilled over size to allow a little movement.
I've run a dti around the new back plate and get no no real movement which is good.
I've fitted it to the chuck, and although it's better than it was, it's still not great...
Watched doubleboost videos. Makes me feel a lot better knowing it’s not just me who sometimes takes too much off, and good to see the solution when you do.
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