Here is a list of all the postings Steamgeek has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Brass purchase|
Try these guys, they are normally about 20% cheaper then the rest
|Thread: Do you accept rave tool reviews as gospel?|
There is absolutely no guarantee that the quality of the tool reviewed will be the same quality that you receive once you part with your hard earned cash. We know from experience the output from China can be of very variable quality, I doubt that the sample for review is representative of the normal production line quality.
At the end of the day You Tubers who chose to partake in this advertising charade are putting their own reputation on the line
|Thread: Chester 16V Mill|
When you bolt the column back on the mill table it is worth checking the nod on the mill, the only way to correct the nod on this model of mill is to shim between the column and the mill table. The last time I took the column of a similar mill I needed a 24" breaker bar to release the bolts, so I put the back with the same bar
|Thread: super heaters|
Adding a small amount of common or garden table salt to flux when silver soldering stainless does significantly help the process, irrespective of your personal beliefs of how effective the superheaters / steam dryers are:
|Thread: Safety Valve|
Polly sell the Gordon Smith safety valve drawings for 50p and have the springs and balls to match.
They probably don't list a one for a 5" Tich, but they give some indication of suitability for loco size
I have yet to see a loco fitted with this design safety valves fail the accumulation test
|Thread: Making BA studs|
Coventry Grinders stock silver steel in 7/64 and 9/64
|Thread: Martin Evans Royal Engineer|
Thanks all for the info, especially the link to the ME index
Did Martin Evans serialize the building of Royal Engineer in ME ?
If he did any idea of when it was published ?
|Thread: CAMLOCK D1-4 VS FLANGE FITTING CHUCK MOUNT, ADVISE PLEASE|
Camlock everytime, word of caution the imported back plates are generally of poor quality for the fit and finish of the locking pins. I search out secondhand backplates much better quality and generally a better price
|Thread: Using nitrile balls in clack valves|
Sorry too quick on the post button
Maccs Models normally have a good supply at reasonable prices
Nitrile balls have a habit of floating, problem becomes obvious with vertical clacks below the boiler water level when the boiler is not under pressure they will leak. Normally once pressure starts to build ( 3-4 psi ) they seal effectively. A solution to this is have a small screw in the top of the clack valve to force the ball down when not under pressure and stopping any leaks. Challenge here is to remember to unscrew it before running or you quickly start wondering why your injectors will not work.
|Thread: injector problems still|
Having purchased injectors from all parties mentioned, I have to put my hand up and say they have all worked without complaint and that has been the experience of a lot of my friends in the hobby.
My personal view is that injectors are often treated as a fit and forget item ( and clack valves for that matter ). I clean my injectors after every run, normally with compressed air and then a quick dip in white vinegar every 6 weeks or so during the peak of the running season to clean up any scale on the cones.
Poor installation of injectors is often the root cause of peoples woes, poor pipework, air leaks on the water feed , no filters on the water feed and if there are filters , when were they last cleaned out?
When you look at the price we pay for these fittings and compare that to the amount of effort, skill and tooling required to produce a similar item in your workshop it's not a bad deal , will they have quality issues from time to time? of course they will and when they do encounter problems we ask them to deal with them promptly.
I am not associated with any of the suppliers mentioned, I am a club boiler inspector so do see more than my fair share of problems with injectors.
I am surprised we have not seen a picture of an armchair, tablet and slippers
|Thread: ALIGN POWER FEED SPARES|
Found a US company who will ship internationally, needed a control board for a Align 500 £130 UK price , $54 in the US plus $25 international shipping, ~ £6 vat to pay plus the Post Office £8 surcharge should still save me £50
Here is the link www.bestlinepro.com
Service so far has been excellent, dealt with all my questions with next working day
|Thread: Simple way to control nema stepper motor|
I have never gone above 500, I am using mine for a power feed on an ML7 cross feed so slow is the name of the game for me.
I have just been down the workshop to try it and I do have the same fault.
I am using a 24v 5A transformer to power the unit, and briefly switched it over to a 12v 63a leisure battery and the fault was the same
|Thread: Thank you|
I am looking for the Articles on the Springbok vols 121 - 123 , I would be extremely gratefull if you could supply them on a pdf
|Thread: Archive Content|
I am planning to start building a Martin Evans Springbok loco, and as I understand it was serialised in ME vols 121 - 123, my question is if I take out a digital subscription would I get access to these volumes through the archive?
|Thread: Simple way to control nema stepper motor|
I spent a couple of months researching this topic and eventually turned up that device, I did not find any alternatives. What started as a relatively simple idea turned out to be quite a chore, but I have to say I am very pleased with the result. I did think about powering a rotary table for the mill using the same solution.
I used one of these **LINK** with a TB6560 board and a 24 volt power supply and it works a treat.
I used it to make a cross slide power feed for my ML7, have a look in my photo album
|Thread: Myford Super 7 - Adding Power Cross Feed|
Especially if it's 5" and cast iron
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