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Member postings for Cabinet Enforcer

Here is a list of all the postings Cabinet Enforcer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Stuart 10V Build Log - Complete Beginner...
21/09/2020 22:59:15
Posted by Dr_GMJN on 21/09/2020 09:57:12:

Personally I'd go for taking reasonable precautions, but use the tools to get things done, rather than just look at them and let them deteriorate through lack of use! It's a fine line between deciding to occasionally use existing equipment for something it not ideally suited for, or not doing it at all.

I take the view that tools wear out, best do something interesting with them before they do. In fact, I hope I wear my lathe out, it'll show I got my moneys worth and I can then justify buying a better onedevil

Thread: Can you reuse old treated Silver steel
15/09/2020 16:13:28
Posted by jaCK Hobson on 15/09/2020 10:19:14:

Q "Can you reuse old treated Silver steel". A yes. Which is what other people suggest but their responses start with a negative so confused me for a few seconds.

I only later realised that the question in the OP text was the opposite to the thread title, obviously I was answering the detailed question in the text, but I can see the confusingness...

15/09/2020 16:01:26
Posted by not done it yet on 15/09/2020 13:09:30:

Does silver steel have a “use by’ date?

Should still be around close to the heat death of the universe, though our own sun going off pop might mix it up a bit. Long enough not to worry about. smile d

15/09/2020 10:00:16

Not directly from the phase changes in the steel no, this can be repeated indefinitely. The action of heating and quenching on a more macro scale will cause problems eventually with sufficient cycles, and any physical damage accrued while being used as a cutter could also come into play in a sort of stress-corrosion cracking.

But basically, no, crack on.

Thread: Locked out of the lathe
02/09/2020 12:54:06

It's a cheap simple lock, usually easy to pick. You need a tension wrench to provide light torque while giving the pins a jiggle about, the stainless steel strip found in car windscreen wipers makes good tension wrenches though a screwdriver or similar can be pressed into service, lockpicks are typically made from steel shimstock, 25thou to 15thou being a workable range, a single triangle toothed shape to "rake" back and forth would most likely get you into this one.

Loads of videos on youtube, try a search for the lockpickinglawyer for some quality inspiration.

I have picked similar desk drawer locks using paperclips, though I wouldn't recommed that as it is fairly tricky due to the lack of tool strength.

Edited By Cabinet Enforcer on 02/09/2020 12:56:03

Thread: Two factor Authentication and Ruralism
05/08/2020 13:53:52

My building society lets you pick from a list of registered numbers for two factor each time it is needed, so I can use the landline when at home. Which is just one of the reasons I barely use the bank I am also a customer of, as they insist on using a text message system.

Thread: Lathe turning speed in relation to different metals
31/07/2020 20:02:03
Posted by Chris TickTock on 31/07/2020 19:36:07:

Hi Guys,

Currently I am going back to machining fundamentals.

Reason: If you don't have a grasp of these you are ill prepared.

So OK you are told different speeds for a given diameter of say mild steel, silver steel, brass or aluminium.

But can any one explain why it is advised to go at a given speed for a harder / softer metal.

Chris

The "best" speed is due to the relationship between the mechanical properties of the material (shear and yield strength, Youngs modulus, etc) and the mechanism of chip formation, also often limited by the properties of the cutting tool.

Practically speaking, it because that that is the speed that "works".

Thread: Quality small metric spanners
30/07/2020 20:20:51

Bergen seem to have been entirely subsumed into US.pro for the moment, the US.pro mini spanners are the same dreadful ones sold by many others, at least they sell them cheap...

A man of fine taste regarding the the ratchets I see, before the last branding shuffle the better Britool stuff was marketed under "Britool England" and included the clutch ratchets, you can see from my 1/4 drive one here that they probably came out of the same factory as the bergen ones.

img_20200730_200952.jpg

Thread: Jobs
30/07/2020 19:48:57
Posted by Phil McAvity on 30/07/2020 19:34:36:

Thankfully, hobby engineers don't run the economy. dont know

I can't even begin to imagine the state of the NHS if it were run at the level of parsinomy extolled by the average hobby engineerlaugh

Thread: Quality small metric spanners
30/07/2020 19:25:26

Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 30/07/2020 10:16:12:

Otherwise they're not magic and don't tighten and undo ordinary nuts and bolts any better than ordinary spanners.

Dave

It may not be magic but a suitably accurate flank drive ring spanner can, as well as being better for peak torque, reduce bruising of flats in those more aestheticly challenging situations. As Tim Pointed out in his OP, and I agree, you can't get cheap decent small spanners, they are all crap.

Anyone suggesting Britool should be aware that they have been nothing but a branding exercise for quite a while now, and should be treated with appropriate caution.

Also the correct answer to any sunglasses question is invariably Serengeti, I'd pick non-polarised glass lenses in the original drivers tint.

You have to laugh at the snap-on pricing, when you hear of some poor dealership mechanic lamenting about how he had ten grands worth of snap-on tools nicked, I always wonder who is it that nicks half a socket set?

Also thanks to Barrie (and others) for putting those Stahwile 16 spanners on my radar, another expensive addition to my "want" list, thanks a bunch crying

Edited By Cabinet Enforcer on 30/07/2020 19:26:00

Thread: Stuart 10V Build Log - Complete Beginner...
23/07/2020 15:09:09

Hi Dr_GMJN, I was sure your username rung a bell when you started posting but I couldn't place it, didn't realise it was from PH until I saw the Stuart build thread pop up in recent posts there.

Nice engine build so far, hopefully she'll run like a chipped 330D laughlaughlaugh.

Re your post on the previous page about indexing, would highly recommend getting both hex and square Stevenson collet blocks from Arceuro, makes jobs like that really easy.

Thread: Please be welcoming in your welcomes.
22/07/2020 15:48:09

I think an important corollary to Neil's post is that just because someone gives you a real sounding name and mentions their locality, it does not mean any of it is true.

Thread: Aluminium thread strength
13/07/2020 13:44:54

Hi Luke, do you mean 12mm of thread on the bolt, or do you mean 12mm of thread engagement?

If you mean thread engagement, then you are in over your head, and you should probably start from the beginning to explain.

If you mean 12mm of thread on the bolt, then you are in waaay over your head, and definitely need to start from the beginning.

The fact that you have sought help on this shows you feel it is important, and I am sure people here will be willing to help, there are potentially very straightforward answers to your question, but without context it is impossible to know.

Thread: WARCO WM-250 lathe family and WM16 mill - 001
06/07/2020 23:20:02

Somehow this very useful thread has dropped off the radar, so I thought I would bump it with a little snippet of useful info.

I have been having terrible trouble with chatter on my wm280, and have chased the problem around quite a bit with nothing making much difference at all to a quite obvious problem. In the end it was as simple as the bolt holding the cross slide nut had come loose (doh!).

I did however learn a couple of things while messing about:

  1. My Dickson QCTP was sleeved onto the original (M8 I think) toolpost stud, machining the topslide for a much larger (14mm) stud which fits properly has made a huge difference to the feel and usability of the QCTP, I highly recommend it.
  2. The bearings were extremely tight on the spindle, explaining why adjustment never seemed to make any difference, despite being in slightly ropey condition the bearings were actually working fine as the timkens that went in to replace made zero difference.
  3. Tailstock problems, when I bought the lathe (2nd hand) the tailstock was tight in spots, a stripdown and rebuild partly fixed it, and a bit of judicious bending seemed to get it to a tolerable state, I assumed the screw had a slight bend and forgot about it. Fast forward to my above bearing install and I inadvisedly used the tailstock to ease the bearing race in, the tight spots returned with a vengence, fearing the worst I stripped it down for a proper examination.

    The rear keep plate, which I quickly realised was transferring the full force on the spindle into the body, was only held in with very short (circa 5mm) cap head screws, and the threads holding one of them in were stripped (when using brute force and ignorance I do like to use plenty of the brute force). The tailstock body is drilled and tapped for much longer screws, so after fettling the interface I popped in some longer cap heads and the tailstock now works more smoothly than at any other time in my ownership.

The odd thing is that I have stripped the tailstock down at least twice, including to install needle roller thrust bearings, and completely failed to recognise that the teensy little bolts would be a problem blush.

Thread: Nozzle Bores
02/07/2020 10:40:41

Nozzles from E3D are low profile, if they are too spendy for you then trianglelab on AliExpress sell nozzles made to match E3Ds published drawings.

As for sizing, if they print OK then they cannot be too far out, try measuring a known good nozzle?

Thread: Harold Hall basic grinding rest
29/06/2020 16:37:27
Posted by Cabinet Enforcer on 29/06/2020 13:18:17:
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 28/06/2020 21:13:36:

I think others have gone the way of a magnetic hold down.

Forces involved in grinding shouldn't be too great, much less than those involved in milling and turning.

In case anyone is reading this and wondering where to find the plans, see out the latest issues of MEW 294 and 295 which reprint the basic rest and main accessories.

Neil

Colour me confused Neil, but the reprint is of the advanced rest not the basic one?

While I'm on, what happened to the simplicity jig supposed to be on p63, will in be in 295?

Correcting myself here, the index said p62, and when checking the online copy I found it at p20, could I heck find it in the printed copy earlier this month, but looking now it seems to have snuck in there laugh

29/06/2020 13:18:17
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 28/06/2020 21:13:36:

I think others have gone the way of a magnetic hold down.

Forces involved in grinding shouldn't be too great, much less than those involved in milling and turning.

In case anyone is reading this and wondering where to find the plans, see out the latest issues of MEW 294 and 295 which reprint the basic rest and main accessories.

Neil

Colour me confused Neil, but the reprint is of the advanced rest not the basic one?

While I'm on, what happened to the simplicity jig supposed to be on p63, will in be in 295?

Thread: Can summer car tyres be used in winter?
17/06/2020 10:54:17
Posted by Circlip on 17/06/2020 10:11:19:

It used to be the "Norm" changing to Town and Countries in winter, deeper treads, so more grippy for snow/slush driving, but beware, some insurance companies could refuse to pay out on a claim in the event of an accident quoting that you have "Modified" your vehicle from Standard original tires fitted unless you inform them before use.

Catch 22 situation that if the originals won't grip on the road conditions, you shouldn't be driving.

Regards Ian.

Some time ago there was a move in the Insurance industry to try to bin this stupid policy, it almost held but ended up being discretionary, the ABI has a document on the matter, the vast majority of major insurers do adhere to it.

**LINK**

However the devious slimebags in the Insurance sector will still try and say that changing the wheels is a matter you need to inform them about (so they can charge you a fee). So you still have to bloody check and the above commitment is now largely worthless.

Thread: Parting tip breakage
30/05/2020 21:07:18
Posted by JasonB on 30/05/2020 20:16:06:

I thought the MGMN inserts were suitable for parting, ones I have seem to do it OK

Yes, even the filthy cheap ba****od ones I have work fine in that type of grooving holder, as long as you dont try anything too big.

I recently smashed a couple of inserts and fatally wounded the holder, in exactly the same way as in the video above. Mainly because I was testing to try and find where the horrific banshee wail and chatter was coming from on my WM280, I think I may post a thread about that...

Suffice to say that if it isn't cutting right and you press on regardless then they do break just like that devil

Thread: Machine Tool Peripheral Hoists
30/05/2020 20:43:32
Posted by Clive Foster on 28/05/2020 23:04:21:

I have some sympathy with the European approach. But the men in Brussels do tend towards remarkably selective blindness.

...

Getting back to the Sky Hook I'd say anyone who couldn't slot that in adequately safely would be dangerous in chage of shoelaces.

Apolgies for the selective quote Clive; I wasn't really reffering specifically to the EU approach to lifting equipment, which would prevent toolpost mounting like this for a number of technical (and pretty valid imo) reasons. It was more the latter point you made, it was a couple of hundred years ago when British judges started to decide that employees are "allowed to be stupid" for want of a better phrase, most Europeans seem to be more inclined to the American approach of personal responsibilty than we are in the UK, I think maybe this is down to the breadth and depth of our industrial heritage.

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