Here is a list of all the postings Will Bells has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Getting rid of the garage door...........|
Hi Pete - slight variation on the themes above, but my two penny worth .....
I kept my up and over doors and skinned them on the inside and added insulation between them. I then added additional rubber sealing all around the gaps. They still open normally.
I then added additional insulated panels on the inside. These were made in two parts per door so that I could manoeuvre them and they were well sealed, but made to be removed for occasional machines to be installed when required, although this is not quick. This does have the added advantage that nobody is going to break in via those doors without working for it and making a lot of noise !!
The whole garage is insulated and is kept toasty warm and condensation free all year round. No regrets.
|Thread: Viceroy AEW|
I have an AEW vertical mill which I've kept busy for 20 years and I like it - it's a good machine and I've have done a lot of work on it.
It is accurate and robust for it's class and size, but it is a small mill, not a Bridgeport, with restricted daylight compared to a bigger machine. But it fits into the corner of my crowded workshop perfectly.
A quill feed would have been very nice, yes, but I have had to accept that it takes 60 seconds longer per hole if I want to drill on the same setting, and sometimes a long taper drill on a high part is too long to fit because of the taper adapter from 30INT to MT, so if I run out of room or have a lot of holes to drill, I pilot or spot and transfer to the drill. Driiling tiny holes would obviously not be a sensible thing to attempt, but larger than 1mm is possible with care.
My first mill was a new FE Mill/Drill which I sold within a year and bought the ex-school AEW. No regrets on that decision.
|Thread: Plastic Balls in Bearings?|
A few years back (cough, perhaps a lot) I was at a design course aimed at failure modes.
One of the problem examples was the classic - what is the worst failure a ball point pen could have. After many answers, the critical failure was deemed to be leaking because of the damage a 50p pen could cause to expensive bags and clothing.
As Chris said, plastic bearings don’t need lubrication. Neither do carpets, so perhaps he has it right.
BUT I definitely will never forgive two faced Mr Dyson putting electric vehicle manufacturing and his headquarters in Singapore !!!!
|Thread: First Thoughts on Anodising|
Hi Neil ..... does Gateros sell sulphuric at 15% (it's not stated on their website so far as I can see) ? I've anodised for many years, so still have a supply of diluted, but it wont last for ever and I wasn't smart enough to stock up.
|Thread: Faceplate or Independent Chuck?|
Hi Nigel ....... on reflection, you're right, I'm talking out of my £&@@.
I'm relaxing on holiday, so I think the sun has got to me 😀
My Denford has an 8" 4 Jaw. My Myford has a 6", which has seen many a hard job.
Nigel - you're right, in theory it's bad practice, and we all do it. And at the end of the chuck's life, say 50 years from now, perhaps I will regret it. Naa, I'll not be around then, but if I was, I'd buy a new one.
However, what you say has made me think a bit ...... the jaws are still going to hold the same size whether they are overhanging a 4" chuck or in a 6" chuck that isn't overhanging.
But, my 5.5" Denford has a 6" 4 jaw chuck, which looks about right, so I think 6" is too big for Colin's lathe.
|Thread: My very own Quick Change toolpost|
A couple of constructive comments if I may ....
Personally, I do like the Dovetail principle, pulling the holder into a known and repeatable position and I would argue that the piston design is not as accurate. Your design is not quite as stiff as a Dickson type, but hey, practically on our class of lathe, it should be rigid enough.
One thing to consider though is that pulling the dovetail upwards (in your first drawing), there will be big bending and side forces on the screw against the corresponding hole when you clamp it up. This is not the most rigid method because of that, may wear quickly and may also suffer from a wedging effect, where undoing the nut does not release the wedge very easily.
I have seen some designs where a screw or a cam pulls the wedge in a direction 90 degrees to yours, ie the bolt is horizontal in your drawing, pulling the wedge in the same direction as the clamping force, without any side force on the bolt.
But enjoy making it and, of course, there's always the option of a sharp tap with a mallet if it wedges
Cheers - Peter
|Thread: Effect of Tensioning a Boring Bar|
Agree with your points - anything not claimed but put into the description prevents other people coming behind them and trying to patent other key features of their idea.
But many companies use the description in an offensive way as well as the claims.
As you say, you can only patent one invention per one patent, so adding more novels things to the description gives the opportunity to add things to the claims if the examiner complains, or even to pull off divisional patents further down the process, where the patent can be split into two (or more) if there are more than one potential invention.
I was trying to knock out a German competitor's granted patent in a hearing at the EPO in the Hague a few weeks ago. I won the battle when their key claim was deemed to be non-inventive, only to then loose the war when they managed to get agreement to move a point from the description into the claims.
I hate patents.
Cheers - Will
|Thread: What Did You Do Today (2017)|
I agree about the difficulty of fault finding new cars the logical traditional way. But there is an upside to all that electronic trickery, which is the on board computer stores fault codes, which is where the garage mechanic will likely look first.
I have one of those hand help devices that read the fault codes, which works a treat. For example, my daughter's petrol Fiesta (12 plate) failed it's MOT on emissions a couple of weeks back. The diagnostic tool identified a misfire fault on one cylinder, which was so difficult to detect by ear that I couldn't be positive that I was hearing it. It was promptly dealt with by changing the plugs and leads and the fault code disappeared. It passed the re-test with flying colours.
You may think about buying one for next time as they are cheaper than a trip to the garage. And don't I know - my wallet is still in intensive care after a trip to the main dealer to get the cambelt changed on a Jag. Ouch, and the diagnostic tool didn't help me one bit.
Cheers - Will
|Thread: Phosphor bronze v oilite|
You probably already know that the classic solution to machine PB102 without tears is to use a top quality drill (I hesitate to say, but not FE), coolant and take it easy. I did use some for a fishing reel that I made and had no problems (used 4 facet TIN coated Dormer drills).
But perhaps using Calphos 90 would be a good solution. Reasonable properties and excellent to machine, although a bit expensive. I got some from Noggin End a couple of years ago; not a great selection of sizes, but was OK for my needs and machined perfectly.
Cheers - Will
|Thread: Retaining washers?|
I believe that the generic term for them is Push-On Fix. Starlock is one brand.
Cheers - Will
|Thread: Can my pillar drill be improved|
Many years ago when I was young and daft (yes, I know, just daft now), I tried using a pillar drill for milling.
As part of the progressive beefing up I did, I decided that the quill clearance could be reduced to reduce chatter and make it more suitable for milling. I learned that a milling machine is the right job for milling. A drill press is not.
But, getting to the point, I made a cast iron collar that was a close fit around the quill and was screwed to the underside of the head casting, the bearing bit for the quill.
I actually made it split and adjustable and took all the play out of the quill, which is probably too tight for normal drilling, but the principle may be of interest. Just a thought.
Cheers - Will
|Thread: How do I check this is vertical?|
And ...... if you mean vertically, as in the horizontal as seen in the photo, a dial gauge on a mag base attached to the chuck moving against the parallel held in the jaws will detect that error as well.
Cheers - Will
The classic method, if I understand the request correctly (Saturday night wine, not your description) is to use a dial gauge.
So hold a parallel in the vice jaws and set up a stationary dial gauge touching it, perhaps by putting the magnetic base on the lathe bed.
There is a theoretical error in that all lathes are supposed to face very slightly concave on extremes of tolerance, but hey, it's only small.
You need to clamp the casting to the cross slide with Tee bolts and clamps etc. and tap the casting progressively to true it up. Bit of a chew, but the only way.
It will take a lot of time to fly cut that lump off with the lathe.
Good Luck - Will
|Thread: Model Engineer - Citizen Scientist|
Hi Ing Russel .....
Sadly, you are right, it never took off here in Blighty. Actually, I don't believe that I have ever knowingly come across anyone else with the title.
Perhaps I should apply for it before Brexit is Brexited !!!
|Thread: Cheaper Oxy acetylene source?|
It is possible to weld with MAPP gas and oxygen if you are very careful.
Possible, but certainly not easy and really only for small parts. The welds can easily become a bit porous / brittle if overheated. If you had a corner seam to weld, say in 16g steel, it would weld a treat, running straight down with minimum filler rod. But less easy welds become progressively more difficult.
Many years ago I did use it for much of the welding to restore a car, and it did a pretty decent job actually, with good solid welds, but I heard that the formula for MAPP gas changed for the worst (welding wise) a few years back, so I doubt I would rely on it for such a job now.
I mostly use it now for heating, which it's great for, and the odd bit of brazing - I use the stick or TIG welders more often for welding.
Cheers - Will
|Thread: Drill bit sets|
My vote goes to the Dormer 4 facet TiN set.
I bought a set a few years back ..... choking back the tears for parting with a wedge of tenners.
But I have to say they are great - accurate and have lasted brilliantly. I've used the hell out of them and they are still in good nick, but here's the thing, because they were expensive, I think I look after them.
I had gone through quite a few sets of cheaper ones before these (and one from Presto)
Cheers - Will
|Thread: The diesel controversy|
TINY WILLY ??????
Never. No, not me ... I mean, well, no ......
OK, I admit. it's true.
Mine's a big fat diesel guzzling Jag
|Thread: Making a small plastic fan|
Oooops, sorry John. Yes, Glass filled nylon.
It's still a thermoplastic nylon, but filled with glass fibers. should be still OK at 200 to 240 degrees c.
You can tell if it's nylon by taking a small bit it and setting it alight. Blow it out and it would smell like burned wool. Of course, that assumes you have previously held a sheep over a flame as a reference ..........
If you gently cut a sliver off the fan with a snappy knife, you would feel the fibers cut if it was filled.
If it's not GFN, perhaps something with a lower temperature like ABS ?
Cheers - Will
me again ...... just realised the fan blades are straight, so no problem to machine new ones with a rotary table and a normal mill. No CNC needed.
Cheers - Will
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