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Member postings for Fatgadgi

Here is a list of all the postings Fatgadgi has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Covid-19 fantasies crushed ?
09/09/2020 11:19:18

............. or C) Try to save both, by letting the fit, younger generations go back to normal, whilst making the older and more vulnerable shield (with a choice for the fit older generations).
Surely, that's where we will end up, like it or not devil

Cheers - Will

Thread: Meek Type Dog-Clutch for Denford
22/07/2020 21:43:23

Me Again.

Time has been disappointingly sparse in the workshop recently due to some domestic diy chores, but I have made some progress.

The clutch and clutch gears have been completed along with the associated rotating sleeve components. So the gear assembly is all but finished for this stage - still a couple of holes to machine in situ once I know the position of other parts, and a locking pin to make.

img_2181.jpg

As shown below, I've temporarily tried it in position on the lathe with a change wheel fitted. It fits a treat and the gears all turn as hoped. Result !!!. The gear on the main spindle is still the original one, but because it's a tight fit on the shaft, I will not remove it again until I'm ready to make the change.

img_2187.jpg

Next challenge is to make the clutch actuator arm and the mechanism that moves it.

Cheers Will

Thread: A plate vice mod
28/06/2020 14:23:57

Hi John - no, the head of the screw doesn’t actually clamp in the downwards direction, just uses friction.

28/06/2020 11:27:56

Hi Bazyle - for the eccentric screw I used M10 cap heads turned down to 13.5mm with a 1mm eccentricity (at Centre line). They are parallel.

cheers Will

28/06/2020 09:51:39

Nice ideas John(s)

I made these clamps recently that also work on the eccentric principle. Feels strange that they work so well, but they certainly do - the clamping force is huge and the friction in the eccentric stops them lifting when tightened.

img_2151.jpg

Cheers Will

Thread: Meek Type Dog-Clutch for Denford
26/06/2020 18:06:57

I’ve managed to get some evenings in the workshop last couple of weeks, even though the temperature has been a bit on the warm side recently, so I thought an update was in order.

img_2170.jpg

img_2169.jpgSo, I’ve machined the pivot plate that holds all the gears together and replaces the original. This was done by boring then reaming the 3 holes for the gear shafts in one setting using the DRO on the mill, These need to be spot on. I then machined the rest of it, which is not critical, on several set-ups on the rotary table.

img_2153.jpg

I’ve also managed to machine 3 of the 5 gears, along with a few stub shafts. So good progress.

img_2161.jpg

The Pivot Plate and the gears shown are cast iron, which made a mess of the machines but is easy to machine, but the dog clutch gears will be steel.

The picture below shows the original gears, and how they will be replaced with the new one.

part location .jpg

I will probably get a start on the clutch parts this weekend, so a bit more gear cutting and rotary table work ..... but now off to fire up the bbq smiley

09/06/2020 19:39:15

Have not got very far as I type this - I got distracted and made 4 low profile clamps over the weekend to hold the lump of cast iron block for the main body, on the mill. And then work got in the way sad

img_2151.jpg

I wanted to face both sides of the block as a first operation, which I could have done easily on the lathe. Instead, I finally decided to make some low profile clamps, which I had wanted to make for ages.

They follow the principle of some (expensive) proprietry ones I have seen, and they work amazingly well - I was quite surprised actually, not too hard to make and the cam screws worked first time. The Jaws are hardened and tempered tool steel; grooved on one side to bite into rough work, and smooth on the other.

Couple more photos in my album - if anyone would like me to add the rough 2D drawings, just ask.

So, both sides now faced, and just going back out to the garage now to start machining the detail whilst the boss has gone out to do the food shopping.

Cheers - Will

Thread: How do I machine this groove?
01/06/2020 17:56:10

Hi Ifoggy - the proper tool is a Face Grooving Tool. Try searching eBay and you will find them with inserts.

It’s basically like a parting tool, but the sides are curved to fit the groove.

Easy to grind from HSS blank, especially for one-offs

Cheers - Will

Thread: Meek Type Dog-Clutch for Denford
27/05/2020 19:26:52

Thanks Gray, I'll reduce the clearance in the clutch.

Yes, it's logical that the speed would change the trip position, but that's not a problem once understood. I don't use a VFD, but the lathe has speed control via variable width pulleys, so the same would apply.

Cheers Will

27/05/2020 12:38:26

Thanks for the reply Gray - and appreciate the offer of advice.

So here we go smiley ...... On the adjustable bar that the saddle hits to flip the clutch from engaged to neutral, I'm thinking around 10mm movement of the bar would feel about right. So 10mm either side of the neutral position.

The clutch "dogs" have 1mm per side clearance before engagement, so 2mm in total.

Obviously since the threading will hopefully be happening a LOT faster than previously, there is a chance of overrun if there is not enough clearance and the saddle goes too fast, but perhaps at practical speeds the leadscrew stops almost instantly, in which case I need not worry.

Do these numbers sound about right to you ??

Good luck with the Atlas - knowing how tricky it was to design around the existing Denford features, I can only imagine how difficult it would be without the lathe in front of you !!

Anyway, the first lump of cast iron is due next couple of days for the banjo, so grey dust will be filling the workshop shortly. Bliss.

Cheers Will

26/05/2020 20:57:12

Finally, after years of drooling over "Sir" Meek's (and others) dog-clutch threading conversions, I have designed one for my Denford 280 lathe.

I've only spent a couple of weeks to get to this stage, so there are still going to be a couple of bugs to iron out, but overall I'm happy. Happy enough to have ordered the materials, in fact, plus a missing 20DP involute gear cutter that I needed, used off flea-bay.

The gearing and clutch bits that you see are reasonably well sorted, and I'm OK with the design. The actuation system that is moved by the saddle still needs the detail finalising. And I need one more check to make sure that the gear rotations are in the right direction to match the actuator lever !!!!

So, wish me luck ..... if anyone is interested, I will post a few notes on my progress as I start to machine. I promise not to post the rude words when I find the errors smiley

Cheers - Will

assy fast threading.jpg

Thread: Fusion 360 CAM cost?
24/04/2020 09:42:35

Hi Peter

Having seen your post I logged into my Fusion to find it had expired.

I followed the buy now (in red, top right) option and you can renew the free license from there after ticking a few boxes.

Cheers - Will

Thread: Getting rid of the garage door...........
25/05/2019 19:42:50

Hi Pete - slight variation on the themes above, but my two penny worth .....

I kept my up and over doors and skinned them on the inside and added insulation between them. I then added additional rubber sealing all around the gaps. They still open normally.

I then added additional insulated panels on the inside. These were made in two parts per door so that I could manoeuvre them and they were well sealed, but made to be removed for occasional machines to be installed when required, although this is not quick. This does have the added advantage that nobody is going to break in via those doors without working for it and making a lot of noise !!

The whole garage is insulated and is kept toasty warm and condensation free all year round. No regrets.

- Will

Thread: Viceroy AEW
22/04/2019 09:45:11

I have an AEW vertical mill which I've kept busy for 20 years and I like it - it's a good machine and I've have done a lot of work on it.

It is accurate and robust for it's class and size, but it is a small mill, not a Bridgeport, with restricted daylight compared to a bigger machine. But it fits into the corner of my crowded workshop perfectly.

A quill feed would have been very nice, yes, but I have had to accept that it takes 60 seconds longer per hole if I want to drill on the same setting, and sometimes a long taper drill on a high part is too long to fit because of the taper adapter from 30INT to MT, so if I run out of room or have a lot of holes to drill, I pilot or spot and transfer to the drill. Driiling tiny holes would obviously not be a sensible thing to attempt, but larger than 1mm is possible with care.

My first mill was a new FE Mill/Drill which I sold within a year and bought the ex-school AEW. No regrets on that decision.

Cheers Will

Thread: Plastic Balls in Bearings?
25/02/2019 00:07:22

A few years back (cough, perhaps a lot) I was at a design course aimed at failure modes.

One of the problem examples was the classic - what is the worst failure a ball point pen could have. After many answers, the critical failure was deemed to be leaking because of the damage a 50p pen could cause to expensive bags and clothing.

As Chris said, plastic bearings don’t need lubrication. Neither do carpets, so perhaps he has it right.

BUT I definitely will never forgive two faced Mr Dyson putting electric vehicle manufacturing and his headquarters in Singapore !!!!

Thread: First Thoughts on Anodising
07/09/2018 20:19:53

Hi Neil ..... does Gateros sell sulphuric at 15% (it's not stated on their website so far as I can see) ? I've anodised for many years, so still have a supply of diluted, but it wont last for ever and I wasn't smart enough to stock up.

Cheers Will

Thread: Faceplate or Independent Chuck?
22/10/2017 16:47:28

Hi Nigel ....... on reflection, you're right, I'm talking out of my £&@@.

I'm relaxing on holiday, so I think the sun has got to me 😀

My Denford has an 8" 4 Jaw. My Myford has a 6", which has seen many a hard job.

Cheers Will

22/10/2017 15:44:32

Nigel - you're right, in theory it's bad practice, and embarrassed we all do it. And at the end of the chuck's life, say 50 years from now, perhaps I will regret it. Naa, I'll not be around then, but if I was, I'd buy a new one.

However, what you say has made me think a bit ...... the jaws are still going to hold the same size whether they are overhanging a 4" chuck or in a 6" chuck that isn't overhanging.

But, my 5.5" Denford has a 6" 4 jaw chuck, which looks about right, so I think 6" is too big for Colin's lathe.

Cheers Will

Thread: My very own Quick Change toolpost
27/09/2017 21:15:43

Hi Iain

A couple of constructive comments if I may ....

Personally, I do like the Dovetail principle, pulling the holder into a known and repeatable position and I would argue that the piston design is not as accurate. Your design is not quite as stiff as a Dickson type, but hey, practically on our class of lathe, it should be rigid enough.

One thing to consider though is that pulling the dovetail upwards (in your first drawing), there will be big bending and side forces on the screw against the corresponding hole when you clamp it up. This is not the most rigid method because of that, may wear quickly and may also suffer from a wedging effect, where undoing the nut does not release the wedge very easily.

I have seen some designs where a screw or a cam pulls the wedge in a direction 90 degrees to yours, ie the bolt is horizontal in your drawing, pulling the wedge in the same direction as the clamping force, without any side force on the bolt.

But enjoy making it and, of course, there's always the option of a sharp tap with a mallet if it wedges wink

Cheers - Peter

Thread: Effect of Tensioning a Boring Bar
20/08/2017 20:16:18

Hi John

Agree with your points - anything not claimed but put into the description prevents other people coming behind them and trying to patent other key features of their idea.

But many companies use the description in an offensive way as well as the claims.

As you say, you can only patent one invention per one patent, so adding more novels things to the description gives the opportunity to add things to the claims if the examiner complains, or even to pull off divisional patents further down the process, where the patent can be split into two (or more) if there are more than one potential invention.

I was trying to knock out a German competitor's granted patent in a hearing at the EPO in the Hague a few weeks ago. I won the battle when their key claim was deemed to be non-inventive, only to then loose the war when they managed to get agreement to move a point from the description into the claims.

I hate patents.

Cheers - Will

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