Here is a list of all the postings Steve Sharman has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Just musing|
One of the best reasons for NOT having a van signwritten is it means one can take their personal trash to the dump without a load of hassle from the operatives.
|Thread: Inverter with motor needed|
We armchair experts are renowned for our thoughtful, informative and sensitive replies when responding to some of the
However, it is difficult to endear oneself to all and sundry whilst retaining one's position in the saddle of such a lofty mount.
Well done, Andy Ash, some sensible rmarks at last! Many of the comments regarding RCD's show a complete misunderstanding of their function and, indeed, where they are required under the current wiring regs.
If you are running a sub-main to a garage / workshop via, for example, a SWA cable then there is no requirement to RCD-protect that cable. Modern consumer units allow for unprotected ways and the submain should be taken from this section, the regs require that the cable is suitably protected and the armouring, earthed at the source, provides this protection. The RCD should be at the next port of call i.e. the garage / workshop consumer unit.
30mA RCD protection is for "person protection", in other words to try to save your life if you receive an electric shock. They compare the current flowing in the line and the neutral conductors which should be perfectly in balance. If there is less current returning in the neutral than went out in the line (or live, as we used to call it) then it is going somewhere else - probably through you to earth. This imbalance trips the RCD before your heart goes into fibrillation.
Another thing to note is that RCD's do not discriminate. If there are two 30mA RCD's in series and a >30mA leakage occur, then both RCD's will trip. Electricity moves, to all intents and purposes, at the speed of light and the mechanics of an RCD cannot act quickly enough to ensure that the unit closest to the fault switches off before the other(s) follow suit. Another reason to ensure that the supply cable to your workshop is NOT protected at the house end.
Caveats: if the workshop supply cable is just some T&E then extra protection, such as conduit may be advisable. If the supply is TT (you have one or more earth rods) then there may be a front-end 100mA RCD. This is not the same as a 30mA RCD and has a different function, it is there for fire protection. The advice is that the heart goes into fibrillation at about 40mA and a 100mA RCd is, obviously, not going to be much protection to you if you are unfortunate enough to receive an electic shock. A 30mA RCD and a 100mA RCD WILL discriminate if the fault current is less than 100mA but, otherwise, both will trip as will two or more of the same rating.
If contemplating setting up a new workshop, it is well worth talking to your local spark. It could actually save you money, and it may save your life if things go pear-shaped. But, hey-ho, we're engineers and know it all, dont we?
|Thread: For sale items have vanished from the adverts|
I have an advert but provided no contact details because I assumed, incorrectly it appears, that people would make contact by PM. I have since updated my details but am dreading a deluge of spam or nuisance phone calls. I'm not sure who can see these details.
|Thread: This is earth calling BAGGO, come in BAGGO|
He's around - I spoke to him at the Midlands exhibition on Thursday.
|Thread: Enlarging deep hole in cast iron|
How about one of these ?
Edited By Steve Sharman on 14/10/2016 17:27:57
|Thread: Ran my black 5 today|
Great result, Ron. Like many others, I have been quietly sympathising with you for the difficult journey you've had with this loco. Shame about the clack valve but the end is now truly in sight. Well done on achieving today's drive at Rugely.
Edited By Steve Sharman on 21/09/2016 23:23:42
|Thread: Slot Drill problems|
My experience has alway been the same as Andrew; a two-flute slot drill has always produced a satisfactory slot or keyway in a single pass (assuming it's in as-new condition). I can't say the same about centre-cutting three-flute slot drills, though. It appears that the alternate cutting of one side then the next affects the accuracy to some degree.
|Thread: How to align a V accurately with a slot?|
Could you not just drill and tap a pair of cross-holes in the blade-guide part and then use a couple of bolts to push the hacksaw blade slightly one way or the other?
|Thread: Knurling machine|
Cut up and used as cores in injection moulding, maybe?
|Thread: Power Feed to Milling Machine Table|
My sincere apologies to anyone who has wasted their time following my earlier link.
I am currently logging my locomotive build on my own website and I have written up my mill power feed on there in the tools and jigs section. If anyone is interested, you can link to the article here
If Neil or Jason feel this is inappropriate, I am sure one of them will remove this post.
Ah! Sorry, I don't know how to sort that problem. I expect that non-members can only view the "General Chat" area.
Apologies to any who cannot access the article, I will remove the link if requested.
At the risk of upsetting Neil et al. ( linking off-site) I have recently recounted my own mill table power feed project here and it may prove useful to someone wishing to try their own version. If nothing else, it highlights some of the pitfalls to avoid. The unit is not pretty but it works well and cost next to nothing.
|Thread: supplier praise|
Hello, Ketan, and thanks for your post. Yes, I did discuss this with Ian this morning - full marks to ArcEuro for phoning me to try and resolve the issue.
Luckily, I own a toolpost grinder and have been able to modify the adapter to suit so, yes, I am sorted in that respect. I could have done that to my original adapter but was too lazy.
What I wrote in my post this morning was genuine, I wouldn't have accepted a refund. For such a low cost item it wouldn't be worth raising the paperwork. My point was that even companies such as yours that have very good reputations can have problems now and again, and we all know that it takes a long time to gain a good reputation but the blink of an eye to lose it!
Following the discussion with Ian I can confirm that I am now happy to remain a customer of ArcEuro.
ArcEuro often get good write-ups on the forum but, unfortunately, I must have caught them on a bad day yesterday. I ordered a couple or R8 adapters over the weekend and they arrived on Tuesday so very good service to this point.
I had ordered a B12 adapter to load a 13mm drill chuck onto and an MT2 for general use with MT drills etc. When I loaded them up to the milling machine, the B12 adapter had a runout of about 3.5 thou which was worse than the adapter I received with the machine. I then tested the MT2 adapter and this ran true within half a thou so I recleaned the B12 adapter and tried again but the runout was the same.
At this point I phoned ArcEuro and spoke to a gentleman to whom I explained the problem. Now, I appreciate that this thing only cost six quid or so, but I offered to send it back and, possibly, pay a bit more to have a higher quality one, or one that had been checked in their workshop but was told that they only did the one type and they were all from the same batch so would probably all be the same.
What I found disappointing was that there was no offer to take the part back for a refund (nor did I ask for one), or any offer of an alternative solution, it was really a case of "Sorry, mate, but it's a cheap item and you're stuck with it".
Quite honestly, at six quid I agree it isn't worth messing about over and I wouldn't have accepted a refund anyway but the lack of interest in helping me find a solution means that I am reluctant to return for any further purchases. I appreciate that they don't make the product and I don't expect them to slavishly check all the items they sell but, unfortunately, I feel that their customer services slipped a little yesterday.
|Thread: PGK's 1" Minnie|
I have been following your thread with much interest so please keep posting your progress. As has been mentioned before, by Neil and others, this forum is missing a "like" button but back-slapping posts do little to enhance the thread and that leaves little in the way of showing our appreciation of someone's efforts.
I will be undertaking my own boiler construction ( a 5" gauge Britannia) sometime in the next year or so and am grateful that you are willing to share your failures as well as your successes. When starting out on this road, one cannot have too much advice or information and I am learning something each time you post.
So, quite simply, thanks for sharing,
|Thread: Early Cowells lathe spindle thread size|
Why don't you phone Colin, the owner of Cowells, and have a chat? He's a very ameniable chap and may be able to supply bits and bobs for the older machines. A phone call is quite inexpensive. 01206 251792
Edited By Steve Sharman on 20/04/2016 21:24:01
|Thread: Postman Cometh Part 2|
This is where a pair of night store heater bricks come in handy because they retain heat. Warm up one brick, cook your part on the other brick then place the first brick on top. Your Celcon-style brick won't retain the heat and you may still end up with chilled edges.
|Thread: Pop up ad on home page|
I'm not a mainstream poster but I am an avid reader. Not for much longer, I'm afraid...
|Thread: What happened to England's forgotten railway stations?|
I think Bob may be referring to Smallbrook on the Isle of Wight. By no public access, I take that to mean by road or footpath.
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