Here is a list of all the postings John P has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Super 7 stiff feedscrews|
Sound as if you are having similar problems to the Myford lathe in this posting https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=173467 , all routes lead back to RGD.
The conclusion was on this posting was
"An update, Myford suggested I return the screw and nut for appraisal, which I did. They detected tightness and suggested it was borderline on tolerance and sent a replacement "original" Myford screw and nut which I fitted today. The replacement is significantly better but lacks the silky smooth action of the metric screw and nut. I can't get it down to virtually nil backlash either.
I am reluctant to concede that it may bed in as I feel it should work out of the box."
Perhaps they just stuck the old one back on the shelf for re sale!
I don't bother with such things now i just make my own they work every time that way.
Edited By John P on 28/10/2021 08:32:44
|Thread: Mill table wonky|
Yes those three holes , it would be as well to assemble the parts as suggested earlier just to check the positioning before drilling the holes in the end of the table as if any of the the existing positioning is off it will lead to an error.
(because the ****** person who built the mill) as you had written earlier had obviously got some things wrong like having the table the wrong way round.
just as a postcript to the previous posting that i made be careful about following the drawings as it appears from the third photo down on your posting at 10:34:11 today that the 3 holes that hold the leadscrew nut may also not be in the correct position , that extra little cast in lug on the XY slide is for that third screw ,as far as i can remember the tapped hole sits more to the left and a little higher in that position.Would be worth checking before drilling any holes.
Posted by Steve 355 27/10/2021 14:07:24
Now I’ve just got to work out how to drill accurate holes in the end of that table.
Luckily I have a big pillar drill!
The easiest way to do this is to remove the XY slide from the machine,
Posted by Steve 355 27/10/2021 10:34:11
Is this statement true? :- It doesn’t matter if the milling table is not square to
Yes it is true , except for the last part after i had built my Dore westbury
As it is the 1st photo that you have posted showing the underside of the
Edited By John P on 27/10/2021 13:35:41
If the edge of the table is not parallel to the direction of travel which seems to be what you are saying here, it is not anything to do with the slide way strip that you have shown in the photo with the caliper reading of 2.973" .The guide strip that is screwed to the underside of the table the one the gib strip runs on controls the position of the table ,you would need to check that the guiding edges of this strip are in line with table edge.
In any event apart from from a nuisance does not affect the operation of the machine in any way ,for what it is worth you would probably need to replace the strip rather than try to reposition the countersunk holes any distortion to the existing strip is likely to lead to more problems.
|Thread: The Interesting Video Thread|
If you have half hour spare watch this video on building a home made lathe.
|Thread: Wandering mill table|
That looks as if it is ok as noted previously by Journeyman , have you checked also the gib strip adjustment on the Y axis slide way, try the test with the Y axis lock tightened.
Bit a of a long shot this its 40 years since i built my Dore wesbury mill, the two steel flat bars that are fitted to the underside of the table one of which provides the narrow guide for the gib strip to run on and sit under the two steel strips which form the bearing surface for the table to traverse on ,all of these strips of steel are attached with countersunk screws ,the guide strip should have a a couple of hollow spring dowels to secure the strip to the table .It may be worth checking if the guide strip that is fitted to the underside of the table is still secure and the screws are still tight as if the strip moves about the table would wobble as you have described.
|Thread: Myford ml7 "parting off"and "max working size"|
Wash the drive belt and pulley's with paint thinners dry off and get some belt dressing spray (Rocol) it will help with the belt slipping problem for a while until the belt gets contaminated with oil again ,have similar problems with my super 7.
|Thread: Spacing of buttons for making involute cutters|
These illustrations taken from an old book shows how this used
|Thread: cutting spur gears on a mill|
Posted by Jason B 8 10 2021 07:15:50
"I wonder what DP Myford gears were made to? They look crude and square CI to me at first glance must examine one closely. I stole a spotty neighbours kids USB microscope (Bresser) and it provides very usable pix at 20X on my PC screen, at 80x I can even see little living amoeba in our pond water, maybe grow some tardigrads"
Why on earth would you need to go to the trouble of using a microscope to find out the DP of Myford gears?
With all the links to various gear calculation charts in this thread etc You should have no difficulty in working it out all you need is OD and number of teeth which should be easy enough to see and in most cases give you a usable answer. PA has also been mentioned here and probably DP too. This is the way a beginner with limited resorces can work out gear sizes I would have thought that would be right up your street.
Hopefully beginners have learnt from this thread but from your methods to work out the DP of Myford gears you certainly have not picked up much useful information and it is no wonder you have not been able to come up with 2:1 gears yet as it's these every things that need to be understood to be able to design simple gears.
Edited By JasonB on 08/10/2021 08:07:40
I just wonder who that this reply was aimed at as all of Brian Jones 11 's postings seemed to have disappeared from this thread ,shades of Barrie Lever .I thought that the posting that you put up in Home cnc the other day here
"From Previous posts on here the Wabeco machines seem to perform well, have a look back for posts by barrie Lever. "
was bit daft as all of his postings have been removed and is only referred to as Former member.
|Thread: gr 8.8 ht bolt steel which carbide tip|
Here is an 8.8 bolt head faced off by hand with a 23 pence tip from Ali******s ,one real difference that you can positively identify from a £5 one is £4.77 in change.
Posted by Brian jones 11 06/10/2021 15:24:33
AFAIK you cant buy individual tool holders like I want 3 for lh rh centre for a
any suggestions - how i hate abusive EB pursuing profits before public
I buy my cutting tips from Ali*****ss the last set i bought were
|Thread: MES Kennett tool and cutter grinder|
Edited By John P on 04/10/2021 19:37:43
|Thread: cutting spur gears on a mill|
|Thread: Turning (approximating) a Domed Surface|
Just found this photo re my last post showing
Posted by Dr_GMJN 27/09/2021 16:30:39
I need to turn a dome shape for a pair of cylinder caps. Similar to a typical
I've heard of using co-ordinates on the cross and top slide,
Material is cast iron. Radius of the dome is about 50mm, and
|Thread: cutting spur gears on a mill|
Posted by brian jones 11 25/09/2021 15:48:26
Looking at the Crown and bevel pinion, without the
It would be worth Brian getting a copy of
Posted by brian jones 11 25/09/2021 19:21:37
After all thats what the big boys do when making big gears, they measure to
thats cooking on gas
The micrometer was only £25, i guess that your eyeball
Gas supply failure!
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