Here is a list of all the postings John Hilton has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: LBSC 3.5" "Maisie" - steam regulator valve assembly|
There should be two screws on the top of the boiler - 5 BA countersink if I recall correctly, that hold the regulator vakve body in place. If you undo these you might be able to move the regulator body sufficiently to see what is going on.
|Thread: Emco servo conversion - compact 5 cnc|
I presume you are using service motors fitted with encodes?
What encoder interface have you used?
|Thread: DC servo motor wiring question|
Yes the Parker drive has those connections (and a load more - mostly on a 10v control circuit).
Your reply is most helpful. I thought I was losing my marbles trying to wire up this motor. I think the designation "Servo" took it to beyond my understanding.
I fabricated a new connection box cover. As you say, too small for some pretty thick cable.
Is there a way to tell if the thermal switch is still working. Were they normally closed or open do you recall?
Once again thanks. Your reply has been very helpful.
I recently bought Boxford 11 inch industrial lathe.
The spindle motor is a permanent magnet DC servo motor. (SEM MT 40W4 -45), together with a Parker driver.
Now I had always understood servo motors to have 3 wires, DC in, signal, and DC 0.
But this motor seems to have only 2.
This motor has 3 pairs of connection pins and wires.
A1 & A2 (armature).
T1 & T2 (tacho voltage)
K1 & K2 .
I am guessing from the motor schema that K1 & K2 are for a thermo cut out.
Needless to say the cable cover with wiring diagram is missing.
So can anyone point me in the right direction. Can this be a simple PWM controlled motor with 2 wires, and if not what am I looking for to find the third (signal) connection?
|Thread: Manual control of CNC|
I have an Emco VMC mill. It runs on Mach3
There is a jog facility with Mach3, or you can use the keyboard right/left up and down arrows but doing it this way is not pleasant as you have no feel for the work like with a manual mill.
I find I mostly write small programs for it, or use the Mach3 midi function for a direct line input. For example if you wanted to mill a 20mm length, starting from 0, type in X20, (adjusted for mill dia) enter and the machine will do the work. You can set the speed of travel, depth of cut etc.
I also have a manual mill. In my book they are both for very different things, and I wouldn't be without either!
|Thread: Parting blades profile.|
Like many here I use a parting tool holder and separate blades such as the 5" long blades sold by RDG and other suppliers.
I want to make my own tool holder. Can anyone tell me the blade side angles please. The blades are slightly wider at the top, and narrow to the bottom.
|Thread: Center drills|
After using some pretty large lathes (Harrison, Smart & Brown) I downsized to a Myford ML10 like you have.
I can honestly say you have a brilliant lathe there. Most capable, if you can hold the work you can machine it!
I wouldn't worry too much about center drill sizes. I use anything from very small 1mm to ones which only just fit the tailstock chuck - about 13mm stock. The lathe is fine with all of them.
Yesterday I drilled some steel with a 1" drill held in the tailstock. No trouble.
I tend not to use the 4 way tool post, preferring the original single tool clamp, but this is mostly so I can continue to use the tools left over from the bigger lathes I once had.
My best addition is the rear goalpost for parting/grooving. The Myford one is a bit big, but I made a thinner one which is just as good and leaves you with more room.
|Thread: Which suppliers are open for business?|
I have just received an order from GLR Kennions, arrived next day as usual.
|Thread: 5" gauge tender horns|
I made mind for a 3.1/2 tender on my CNC mill. Pretty easy really, milled in one operation out of 1/2" steel.
You tube has Mr Crispin making hornblocks for Springbok somewhere I recall. Worth a look.
|Thread: How are your clubs responding to Coronavirus|
We all seem to be going the same way. At Tiverton we have now updated our position to stop club meetings.
Is anyone expecting to change club membership fees, payments etc. I hope not as we need to come out the other side of this strong and viable.
I know there is a long thread about the virus itself, but I would find it helpful if we had a separate thread to collect our club responses to the virus.
At Tiverton model Engineers we have decided to:
1. Cancelled Friday evening meetings
2. Postponed the April Agm.
3. Allowing steam ups and working parties to continue for now (we do not do public running)
4. Decided not to invite the public to a planned open day in May.
What have others done?
|Thread: Unusual ER Collets|
Thanks for your replies.
In my early days of using ER collets in my milling machine I did notice the milling cutter could slip into the collet holder sometimes, probably I hadn't got the collet properly tightened, but these collets could be a belt and braces approach.
As I said they fit my ER 32 holder, and I have a range of sizes so i will try them out next time i have some milling to do.
And so back to riveting tender hornblocks to the frames on 3.1/2 gauge County Carlow.
Thanks for your replies.
The collet is marked "ER" and "SS", as well as the size.
I too had wondered if the cap head screw on the end was to set a dead length, but it has no lockout.
It fits my ER32 collet holder wel
I have been clearing out a friends workshop lately.
I came across some unusual ER collets, and wondered if anyone knew what it might be for.
They are ER32 series.
They have only 6 "blades"
The inside diameter is ringed all the way down
It has a cap head bolt and longish nut on the bottom.
Photos of the 16mm size.
|Thread: Wood or Charcoal|
Thank you all.
I think I shall stick with the charcoal then, and have some fire lighters as backup.
I am just preparing my loco for what I hope will be a spring day run tomorrow at the Tiverton model engineers site on Exmoor.
I was wondering if anyone has a strong view as to what fire lighting medium produces the least ash.
I have used charcoal up until now, but my loco ashpan is prone to clog up after about 90 minutes.
So would wood, or firelighters produce less ash?
What does the forum think?
|Thread: Frost steel blacking kit.|
I have used the Frost Blackening kit. It is easy to use and the results are very good.
You will need a timer for the immersion times. I used my iPad.
The first cleaning/degreasing is essential, and when I have used other cleaners the results are not as good.
|Thread: Another "What is it"|
Thanks Michael & John. The link showed exactly the enormous micrometer.
Would this be intended to ensure a consistent pressure when measuring?
I recently agreed to help a friend clear his workshop.
I have come across an odd measuring tool.
It is made by Sigma and says "based on NPL design" and is obviously a measuring tool. When the end is gently pressed a needle marker moves in the window.
It may have been inserted into a sort of enormous micrometer fitting I have also found.
Picture here or if that fails on the next post!
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