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Member postings for Russ B

Here is a list of all the postings Russ B has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Arc Euro Trade April Offers/Discount Codes
27/09/2017 13:04:27

Do we have any new codes cheeky?

It was my birthday last week but I've been so busy I forget to get myself something!!
Sadly no free shipping or anything which is when I tend to buy all the things I don't really need (which is.... most of the cool shiny engineering stuff I buy)

I'm eyeballing a pair of Stevenson's ER40 collet blocks and a type B nut!

Thread: Dickson tool post
27/09/2017 08:54:19

If the vee's are worn, then just like a lathe bed, the wear will be concentrated more in one spot, and I bet at the top and bottom, they aren't worn at all.

Get a precision ground "anything big enough" (vee block or other setting tool?) and test the faces of the vee's for flatness.

I'd be tempted to have a go at making my own cams, or perhaps making some slightly thicker top hats if the vee's or cam has worn a bit??

Thread: Free lathe riser/stiffener heavy steel channel
21/09/2017 09:46:34

Tony, sorry i think it's gone, someone local is collecting, I'll let you know if it falls through

20/09/2017 12:31:00

20/09/2017 12:29:19

There are getting thrown out, but I see uses for them in the home workshop as lathe bed stiffeners/raisers to add a bit of extra mass - these would be sturdy enough to twist a bench top size lathe bed true if need be (up to Myford 7 / Boxford AUD sort of size)

Obviously they could be used for all sorts of seriously heavy duty work, a bearing press is another good example. There is also a stack of 10+ slightly smaller section stub length around a few hundred mm long.

Getting thrown in a skip this week or next, I could hang on to them for a little bit if need be.

2 painted grey U section RSJ 200x75, 12mm webs, 6mm thick across the 200mm width. Both 1050mm long.

1 unpainted 200x95, 15mm webs, 8mm thich across the 200mm width 1620mm long, flame cut at one end.

any takers for one/all, must be collected from DN2 4SE area in Doncaster - all very heavy obviously.

Edited By Russ B on 20/09/2017 12:31:31

Thread: 3D Printed Wind Turbine
01/09/2017 14:29:24

This is worth a look.

01/09/2017 13:53:55

Small/cheap IC engines often run a magneto, I wonder if this could be of any use?

How do you go about regulating speed on a vertical axis turn in case it's blowing a gale outside?

Thread: Raw black rubber
01/09/2017 09:56:54

Sorry Hacksaw I didn't see your post regarding having already tried PU!

This unvulcanized rubber sounds like the business. I might investigate further although I believe it's not capable of retaining pressure which would be of some importance to me. How much was this stuff and does it have a shelf life?

01/09/2017 08:22:04

I'm a bit late to the party.

I've had great success using 2 pack urethane - it's as tough as old boots and can be coloured. Available in a range of hardness, I get mine from Bentley Advanced Materials, it isn't cheap but it is good quality - their colour pigments are UV resistant which is important for your application!

Silicone has a much lower resistance to hydrocarbons/oils/fuel - I wouldn't advise it on a car, but on the back lights, maybe ok?

I 3D print the moulds and give them a final finish (what ever is needed, a bit of sanding, a touch of filler, a coat of XTC3D and a final spray of release agent (as urethane is a very strong adhesive IIRC)

I cast a seal face on a 3D printed conical sealing head, using a 3D printed mold, for a 1 ton per hour pulverised coal injection machine running at upto 7 bar, the seal head is on the main bulk material inlet, I built the machine a few years ago, and it's still running today.

Thread: Myford Super 7 Lathe - early style Clutch
31/08/2017 15:45:32


I had one of these, the clutch was dodgy, but I still wish I hadn't sold it!

The clutch was a very crude expanding shoe and was basically just a ring of metal with a wedge cut out of the top. As you operated the handle, a rod was driven down the centre of the rotating drive shaft (the rod spins with the shaft, there is a bearing in the handle if I recall correct)

This rod has a ramp cut in to it, and a dowel pin rides up this ramp, and pushes the wedge in to the cut out in the clutch, expanding it.

My rod was obviously not sufficiently hardened or was damaged by improper adjustment or use, so the ramp had a notch, and this notch made it very difficult to actuate the cluch, all I needed was a bit of medium carbon steel the correct length, and machine this simple ramp in it, I'd case harden the ramp locally and that would have sorted it.

Failing that, making an entirely new shoe wouldn't be difficult as it didn't have any sort of friction material on it. You could also sleeve the corresponding bore in the pulley?

As Niko said, worst case scenario, do away with the clutch, the ML7 version doesn't have one, and you don't really need it. It does prevent you having to stop and start your motor all the time, to quickly check dimensions which is handy, plus as I understand it, stopping and starting can be very harmful to most single phase motors depending on the type!

Thread: (Tooling design help please) Die Cutting / Punching non ferrous sheet
28/08/2017 17:07:41

Look like Gauge Plate is the way to go folks!

Do you think I'd get away with 2mm thick plate, bearing locked into/onto mild steel or would I need thicker?

I could easily afford a 2mm thick piece 100mm wide and 500mm long (£22.79 delivered) and this could be useful for all sorts of things in the future. The next step up is 3mm and its 50% more (thinner is the same price on the width I was looking at)

Edited By Russ B on 28/08/2017 17:09:00

26/08/2017 23:15:32

Jason, thanks, I'm lacking knowledge on these things, but wow, double the carbon content of EN8, practically the same as silver steel, but more chromium, plus a bit of vanadium, and a sprinkling of tungsten to boot! Would I be correct in thinking this will harden more than silversteel, I'm not totally sure, the carbon content is practically equal.

I'll look in to prices, I wouldn't mind ordering more than I need as it seems like it would be very useful.

I'm also beginning to come back around to your orignal suggestion of rough cutting and machining the OD, but we'll see, it's certainly looking like the cheap and easy (less a bit of elbow grease rough cutting) option to attain good results.

26/08/2017 17:06:51

Jeff that Dayton page is superb thanks, a very interesting and informative read, I've downloaded their PDF version and will certainly keep that for reference indefinitely.

I'm going to have to drop the silver steel for the main outer cut to make the disks as I need them around 30mm diameter, so the die would have be circa 40mm minimum and It's very pricey!

I think I'll just use EN8 and harden and temper, I might case harden too as I have stash of kasenit, I'm not overly experienced with heat treatment, I tend to just follow the basics and it seems to have an effect!

22/08/2017 12:05:50

JasonB, thanks - yes I'm getting a bit carried away with the manufacture of tooling, but I imagine if I like the results, I'll want to make a few more for other bits and pieces.

Michael, that's the same clearance I use on my 3in1 machine for steel, so an easy one to remember thanks!

Roy, it would need to be plated or simply push fitted with a thermal interface material (paste) - I hadn't thought about that! That eliminates aluminium from my line of enquiries, as its quicker/easier to just use copper, and it's probably easier to source, and certainly performs far better.

John, that tool looks really handy!! I feel a hex bar stock project coming!! How bigger hole do you think it could cut in 0.5mm copper sheet? - I've sent a quick message to the Gas Turbine Builders Association to see if those plans are still available.

22/08/2017 08:28:18

I'd like to stamp/die cut some copper or aluminium disks using a home made 2 piece punch & die (silver steel?) - does anyone know what the clearance should be to produce a nice burr free edge or have any advice, I'm just making it up as I go along at the minute!

- back ground info (as there may be a better way!)

I'd like to make a simple heat exchanger consisting of aluminium or copper disks slid over a copper pipe and soldered to it.

I would guess the best way would be to turn a two piece tool out of silver steel (Die + punch) with a clearance specific to the material type and thickness and use an arbor press to stamp out of a stack of disks.

And going to the next stage............ all these disks would ideally have a formed hole in the middle, providing a natural land and spacer to the next fin in the stack, as per the below image (which may be upsidedown.......). This is a beautifully clean cut multiple heatpipe example of the type of cooler I'm trying to build. Mine will obviously be much simpler, just a single copper pipe with round disks on it and a generous gap to allow convection.

capture 1.jpg

Thread: Would you buy a second hand laptop computer ?
21/08/2017 13:26:07

On this tanget, This data talk only refers to old magnet storage aka Hard Drives, PC's that use Solid State Drives aren't affected. For magnetic drives, I would recommend Lowvel.

And talking on point with regards to the OP, the hard drive and a laptop's battery are the only two components that would bother me significantly. Lithium batteries can only be cycled so many times, and degrade if left fully charged all the time, or discharged too much. Hard drives have bearings, bearings have a finite life, eventually things start to go wrong.

On a slight tangent again, Windows 10 licences are digital, and stored on Micro$oft servers, so if your hard drive does fail, there's no panic with regards to finding your key code and registering the installation - you'd just install the same version of Windows 10 you had before, and select "i don't have a key", Micro$oft servers will recognise your system by it's various digital serial numbers and automatically re-active windows. It won't get your data back, but it's a hell of a lot easier to upgrade or change your hard drive and get a clean installation of windows.

Thread: advice on choosing a milling machine
21/08/2017 12:20:26

I also use the drilling function of my Mill/Drill more than anything else, and so the speed and ease of the quill's drilling function is superb, I wouldn't ever be without. (As a former Astra horizontal and vertical mill owner I'm confident of this)

Just be careful with some horizontal mill's as the vertical attachments are extremely close to the surface of the table, you'll not have enough room left to get a drill chuck + drill in! - let alone a drill chuck + drill + workpiece/vice underneath!

It all comes down to what you want to do with it! It wouldn't take much time or expense to adapt an old pillar drill to mount on a horizontal/vertical mill - giving it another feather in it's cap, and providing relatively quick and easy coordinated drilling - just so long as you've got the distance from spindle to table!

Edited By Russ B on 21/08/2017 12:21:45

Thread: Lathe Way Felt
09/08/2017 13:36:32

I've ordered a sheet, thanks for the tip.

Thread: What are these stone sticks?
07/08/2017 14:02:22
Posted by Georgineer on 07/08/2017 13:07:55:

Looks like talc to me. I was brought up to call the solid talc, and the powdered form French Chalk. I think it's a magnesium compound, unlike ordinary chalk which is calcium carbonate. Blackboard chalk is actually calcium sulphate (gypsum, Plaster of Paris).


I thought I was the only one.........

The guy changing tyres at the classic bike races looked at me like I was stupid when I mentioned grating talc on the tubes.......... he said, "No... use french chalk" in a very worried tone....

Thread: 2040 deadline for Diesel and Petrol cars.
26/07/2017 13:42:15
Posted by Ian Parkin on 26/07/2017 12:01:47:

Has anyone on here got real evidence of how much an electric car costs to charge?

not hearsay or manufactures figures but real it cost me 40 units to do 40 miles sort of evidence


The Outlander PHEV (assuming that's what your talking about) has a 12kW battery, it doesn't fully discharge. It takes about 10-11kW of electric to charge, which at 12p a kw = 11x12 = £1.32. Most people pay less than 12p I think - so basically, this is a worst case scenario.

The Outlander PHEV is designed to achieve 32 miles range all electric, the reality being 25 miles.

The standard diesel Outlander achieves about 38mpg in the real world (**LINK**)

Diesel costs £1.16 per litre (UK average) 4.546x£1.16 = £5.27 per UK gallon.

£5.27 in the diesel = 38 miles

£5.27 in the PHEV battery = 99.8 miles

2.62 times further on electric pound for pound in an Outlander PHEV running all electric vs all diesel.

The PHEV has a 2.0 litre petrol engine, not particularly efficient on its own. In the real world working with the hybrid power it achieves 60mpg,

Petrol costs £1.14 per litre (UK average) 4.546x£1.14 = £5.18 per UK gallon.

£5.18 in the petrol = 60 miles

£5.18 in the PHEV battery = 98.01

1.63 times further on electric pound for pound in an Outlander PHEV running all electric vs hybrid mode - and without any messing about recharging - I'd probably stick with Hybrid mode.

*sorry I got my wires crossed mid way though my train of thought - edited out*

For comparison, an all electric vehicle like the NIssan Leaf, has a 30kw batter and a 150mile range (110 in the real world I think) and something exotic like a Tesla Model S can have upto a 100kw battery, and their pickup trucks, even more is planned in the future.


Edited By Russ B on 26/07/2017 13:46:35

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