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Member postings for Russ B

Here is a list of all the postings Russ B has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: mini Bandsaw, or mini Scroll Saw ??
03/01/2014 17:56:09

Well on the bandsaw front, and following advice on the "dual wheel" version, I'm moving towards the "generic" 250w version with the old fashion square steel appearance, as opposed to the newer style 350w rounded moulded plastic.

Purely because I've looked in the Silverline manuals and the square metal box type, look very easy and simple to modify! where as the moulded plastic cases are what they are, they isn't much you can do if you wanted to change or repair/replace part of the case!

I also noticed the 350w is CONSIDERABLY noisier and lighter weight - none of which are attributes I value.

Square box 250w


newer style round 350w


03/01/2014 17:03:19

Looks interesting!

EDIT I wont be getting one then......... screwfix advertise it for sale, but seemingly have no stock (I've searched from Grimsby to Manchester, Leicister to Leeds,they won't post me one, and just keep telling me no stock in "that" area (they wont actually tell me where they do have stock...... if they have stock......) - I had this problem a while ago with them when I tried to buy a circular saw they had on "offer"........

Original msg: I've found a quick video review of the Erbauer, its coming in under a different brand name but its the same saw, I like the look of it, I might just have a gamble as it looks to be coping very well with a thick piece of wood, so a thin piece of aluminium seems reasonable I'll see if I can find anything else


I've edited this multiple times for various spelling errors sorry - its a Friday thing

Edited By Russell Bates on 03/01/2014 17:13:56

Thread: Workshop Break in
03/01/2014 15:50:31

Just "Googled" this could be the link they gave me, they also gave me stickers advertising that everything was "registered" - not sure I'll use these, as the thief's would then know to remove the serial numbers!


Edited By Russell Bates on 03/01/2014 15:50:59

03/01/2014 15:46:19

I have recently received a knock on the door from the police, there have been several break ins so they've been warning everyone and handing out advice.- The police now have a database that you can register any/all serial numbers, from your phone, to you satnav, your TV, radio, tools, anything, even make your own serial numbers. This way if they ever find something or recover stolen goods, they can check the database, meaning you could get your stuff back, and it means you can also then ........

search the regular sites, craigslist, gumtree, ebay for a similar item in your proximity and ask to go and view it - is it yours can you identify it ??. (If you can't identify but you know it's yours...... make other arrangements angel)

So if you dont already, I'd start keeping serial numbers of all valuable stuff and mark them somewhere hidden "ish" with your own numbers if they don't have any or are not permanent enough! then if you view an item, and it is yours, keep your poker face on, and leave, drive around the corner, and call the police.

I'll get that database website link when I'm home tonight and post it here.

Thread: mini Bandsaw, or mini Scroll Saw ??
03/01/2014 13:54:46

Posted by Michael Gilligan on 03/01/2014 10:51:28:

... Perhaps we should be looking at ways to re-engineer one of the cheap knock-offs to make it work properly.


This sounds like an interesting challenge, I guess it all swings on what makes a Hegner or more specifically, what doesn't !!

I've just finished a similar budget machine conversion project (£20 in materials) with a CNC'd Sieg SX1L milling machine from ArcEuro, which I ended up putting an extra £80 in to for a rigid column which I could have got by without, but it proved absolutely fantastic, it reduced deflection by a factor of 10 or more, and really just stiffened up everything, I think the tilting column was twisting and rocking in almost all axis except that in which its supposed to tilt in!

The plan was to remove the top and gearbox and fit a 250-500w brushless motor with a remote speed controller and belt drive but now I've picked up a pretty much brand new 1989 NuTools Mill/Drill (RF-20 copy) cheap, thus Sieg project is getting polished and sold as is with its std. gear box and as a manual machine but with the motor mounts, coupling hardware, and limit switches left discreetly in place should anyone ever want to go that way with it.


might bob it on the "for sale" bit here once I get it there, and I'll also be selling my manual Bridgeport - due to moving house in the next year and not having a proper size workshop anymore - I'm also trying to get it past my missus to allow me in the of the house with this stuff smile p

- someone pinch me, I'm dreaming .....

02/01/2014 22:39:22

Thanks for all the responses, really appriciate it, I'll keep thinking about this tomorrow, it certainly sounds like a scroll saw is maybe not the best approach, at least not a budget one, I have seen some of the dual wheel version for around the £100-120 mark so maybe that's the way to go.

I had found and Erbauer saw for £99.99 from screwfix which has a flexi shaft, with a 100 piece accessory kit, full of mini sanding, grinding, and polishing bits and pieces, as well as an intergrated work light, a dust extraction point, and an adaptor to take plain blades as well as 2 pin (albeit a bit fiddly by the looks of it). I could really see the uses for one of those machines and its extras!!....... not that it would have any use for my needs right now - I'm just a bit of a tool lover.

IanT this jigsaw idea looks like something I'd like to get stuck in to, I'll have to have a closer look at how a scroll saw works, as I thought it was pretty much a jigsaw action - hence the Erbauer sounded up my street??

This above jig saw looks like it should be pretty easy to knock up, thanks for that - might hook a foot switch to mine though - dont trust myself - already to proud owner of a shredded thumb which after at least 10 years, still isnt right.

Thanks again for all these replies, really appriciate it! yes

02/01/2014 15:05:34

Thanks IanT,

I'll be cutting aluminium plate, likely 2-6mm thick, and occasionally I might tackle thicker things, probably bar stock up to 1" (I might just hand cut this to be honest) - on very rare occasions small thin brass or copper ( I could keep a variety of different blades for various materials as they're cheap and easy to store and change)

At the moment I'm cutting stock to size in a vice with the hacksaw, which is why I thought a bandsaw or table saw would make my life an awful lot easier - but it doesn't really give me any extra abilities and I can't afford the space or money for 2 machines at the moment so,

The only reason for considering a scroll saw is the potential of being able to cut profiles for small parts relatively well, potentially saving me machining time/tool life. A scroll saw I guess would sacrificing a fairly large amount of cutting speed and straight line accuracy which I don't think I need, anything's easier than the hacksaw, I'll leave precision cuts to the miller or lathe.

Thread: Calculating volume in metric
02/01/2014 13:38:12

And the winner of the quickest combined mistake spotting and volume calculations goes to .....

Thread: mini Bandsaw, or mini Scroll Saw ??
02/01/2014 13:00:34

Hi all,

I'm (not desperately) in need of a "benchtop" cutting tool, and I've put away the idea of a small circular table saw, and moved more towards either a bandsaw, or scroll saw - but rather embarrasingly I've not experienced a scroll saw before.

The idea is to roughly cut out profiles from stock, leaving say 3-5mm for machining.

The contenders are both around £100 (band over, scroll under)

a 350w bandsaw with 190mm throat

a 120w scroll saw with 400mm throat

I think that the 400mm throat better suits the size of my lathe and mill - it's almost ideal actually but with a weaker 120w motor ?

in addition to this, I guess I can also cut internal pockets which could prove to be beneficial in the future and also switch and change blades relatively cheaply and easily (maybe even get a diamond coated blade for detailed tiling I don't know?)

Are there any massive drawbacks to a scroll saw, something is telling me to go for the 350w bandsaw, maybe just because that's what I see in my head?

Many thanks, and happy new year all!

Thread: Rollo Elf
17/12/2013 18:31:11

Mines MT1 yes

They're pretty dam nifty for such a small machine, reasonable distance between centres (mine the long bed), 3 speed plantary gear box allows you to change speed without stopping, screw cutting, what more do you need cheeky

Thread: workshop heating
16/12/2013 15:00:43
Posted by Russell Eberhardt on 15/12/2013 16:44:58:
Posted by Muzzer on 12/12/2013 02:11:31:

Doesn't really matter what electric heater you use, they are all exactly 100% efficient.

While that is true of course, you can get more heat out than electrical power in by using a reversible air conditioning unit. They draw heat out of the cooler outside air into the building so do not break the laws of physics.


I've family in France (I guess one day, my farther in law) he has his own ground source heat pump. If your're looking to save money on electric heating, its the only way I think.

Air Source are ok, but air temperature varies of course and they stop working at a certain low temperature no

Now if a forum full of model engineers can't build a mini GSHP - who can? wink

12/12/2013 22:25:00

I'm with David Clark if you don't spend all day in there, Small tube heater 30w-100w on a thermostat 24/7 keeps the moisture at bay and doesn't cost the earth.

A good jumper and some proper long johns!! ex-MOD - the white ones with a square or line pattern in them - I've tried newer ones, even some expensive ones, which looked and felt quality but they frequently disapoint - to hot, a bit clammy, to cold.... the old school ones always seem cosy and just right...........



Edited By Russell Bates on 12/12/2013 22:26:35

Thread: Which mill
06/12/2013 15:07:31

I find the columns that tilt at the base like the XJ12 to be a right royal pain in the butt, I find the mechanisms flex or vibrate/chatter a little at best, and at worse slip from time to time and run out tram requiring retramming - or checking out of paranoia on a regular basis.

This style column also greatly complicates the coordination and zeroing since moving the quill or column up and down results in movement in both X and Z directions (diagonally) when tilted so complex angles require some serious maths - where as the one that tilts about it column dovetail can still be wound up and down the column adjacent to the table so life is (a little) easier.

Also worth noting, both machine you've showed us are of the dovetail column type - round columns are (in my opinion) just as rigid, but the dovetails allow you to unlock the column and raise/lower the head with acceptable x-y ordination, whereas the round column type would require you to re-zero x-y. (an example would be you've centre drilled some holes and want to then drill them out, and the dill bit is much longer and the quill hasn't enough travel)

- just my 2 pence

Thread: Shed for a workshop - any advice?
20/10/2013 13:07:28

Sound's like you've got this one covered, if your worried about cost of heating, before the base goes in, it might be worth considering sinking some pipes under the soil there for a future GSHP project!

you can make the actual heat pump yourself, no need for one of these fancy off the shelf units that cost thousands, I've not looked but I guess there will be a plethora of information on the forum about these.

this should cut your heating bill by about 1/4 even for a naff system and upto 60% for a good one, typically a 1/2hp compressor will kick out almost 750w of heat on a cheap loo[, which should do most of the basic hard heating in a well insulated space like that with a secondary electric for boosting up to comfortable temperatures. - no point going for a bigger compressor, as you probably don't have the ground space for the pipes without boring which is where the expensive systems come in.

Thread: Bridgeport mill dual dial help needed please
18/10/2013 18:24:49

the inner ring, and outer imperial ring you removed at 3:53 should be 1 piece IMO which would transfer drive through the planetary gear and to the rear metric ring which is essentially what your doing by hand.

at 0:55 you say "pull that back" - you shouldn't be able to just pull that off - can you imagine how many would go missing over the years!

let us know how you get on, I have a very similar system on my 1970 A&S Bridgeport Series 1, but the gear between my 2 rings is about Ø10 diameter and nylon (rubbish) one is stripped of its threads - no surprise but I'm heading towards metric ball screws as a cheap fix to eliminate multiple issues.

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