Here is a list of all the postings Russ B has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: mini Bandsaw, or mini Scroll Saw ??|
The idea is to roughly cut out profiles from stock, leaving say 3-5mm for machining.
The contenders are both around £100 (band over, scroll under)
a 350w bandsaw with 190mm throat
a 120w scroll saw with 400mm throat
I think that the 400mm throat better suits the size of my lathe and mill - it's almost ideal actually but with a weaker 120w motor ?
in addition to this, I guess I can also cut internal pockets which could prove to be beneficial in the future and also switch and change blades relatively cheaply and easily (maybe even get a diamond coated blade for detailed tiling I don't know?)
Are there any massive drawbacks to a scroll saw, something is telling me to go for the 350w bandsaw, maybe just because that's what I see in my head?
Many thanks, and happy new year all!
|Thread: Rollo Elf|
They're pretty dam nifty for such a small machine, reasonable distance between centres (mine the long bed), 3 speed plantary gear box allows you to change speed without stopping, screw cutting, what more do you need
|Thread: workshop heating|
I've family in France (I guess one day, my farther in law) he has his own ground source heat pump. If your're looking to save money on electric heating, its the only way I think.
Air Source are ok, but air temperature varies of course and they stop working at a certain low temperature
Now if a forum full of model engineers can't build a mini GSHP - who can?
I'm with David Clark if you don't spend all day in there, Small tube heater 30w-100w on a thermostat 24/7 keeps the moisture at bay and doesn't cost the earth.
A good jumper and some proper long johns!! ex-MOD - the white ones with a square or line pattern in them - I've tried newer ones, even some expensive ones, which looked and felt quality but they frequently disapoint - to hot, a bit clammy, to cold.... the old school ones always seem cosy and just right...........
Edited By Russell Bates on 12/12/2013 22:26:35
|Thread: Which mill|
I find the columns that tilt at the base like the XJ12 to be a right royal pain in the butt, I find the mechanisms flex or vibrate/chatter a little at best, and at worse slip from time to time and run out tram requiring retramming - or checking out of paranoia on a regular basis.
This style column also greatly complicates the coordination and zeroing since moving the quill or column up and down results in movement in both X and Z directions (diagonally) when tilted so complex angles require some serious maths - where as the one that tilts about it column dovetail can still be wound up and down the column adjacent to the table so life is (a little) easier.
Also worth noting, both machine you've showed us are of the dovetail column type - round columns are (in my opinion) just as rigid, but the dovetails allow you to unlock the column and raise/lower the head with acceptable x-y ordination, whereas the round column type would require you to re-zero x-y. (an example would be you've centre drilled some holes and want to then drill them out, and the dill bit is much longer and the quill hasn't enough travel)
- just my 2 pence
|Thread: Shed for a workshop - any advice?|
Sound's like you've got this one covered, if your worried about cost of heating, before the base goes in, it might be worth considering sinking some pipes under the soil there for a future GSHP project!
you can make the actual heat pump yourself, no need for one of these fancy off the shelf units that cost thousands, I've not looked but I guess there will be a plethora of information on the forum about these.
this should cut your heating bill by about 1/4 even for a naff system and upto 60% for a good one, typically a 1/2hp compressor will kick out almost 750w of heat on a cheap loo[, which should do most of the basic hard heating in a well insulated space like that with a secondary electric for boosting up to comfortable temperatures. - no point going for a bigger compressor, as you probably don't have the ground space for the pipes without boring which is where the expensive systems come in.
|Thread: Bridgeport mill dual dial help needed please|
the inner ring, and outer imperial ring you removed at 3:53 should be 1 piece IMO which would transfer drive through the planetary gear and to the rear metric ring which is essentially what your doing by hand.
at 0:55 you say "pull that back" - you shouldn't be able to just pull that off - can you imagine how many would go missing over the years!
let us know how you get on, I have a very similar system on my 1970 A&S Bridgeport Series 1, but the gear between my 2 rings is about Ø10 diameter and nylon (rubbish) one is stripped of its threads - no surprise but I'm heading towards metric ball screws as a cheap fix to eliminate multiple issues.
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