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Member postings for Russ B

Here is a list of all the postings Russ B has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: How not to repair an X1 Milling Machine
16/04/2014 22:39:45

Just looking to gather thoughts,

what are the pros/cons between your method and a plain thrust bearing either side - and would mini angular contacts be good? (although I don't think I've ever seen any this small)


15/04/2014 10:55:02
Posted by Matt Inkel on 14/04/2014 19:26:21:


Can I ask what size milling collet chuck you use ? Ive been eyeing up an ER25 ..but Im not sure if that's pushing the capabilities...


Matt, (Check your private messages)

I'm using ER25 too, nice balance of cost/quality and size. The seller I bought the arbor from also sold the safety spanners and they were happy to swap out the C spanner free of charge (I bought them from YS TOOL, aka onlineseller68 on ebay)

Thread: Proxxon 150/E
11/04/2014 09:46:48

It really is a daft state of affairs when all that stands between a good machine and a bad one is a few pence worth of quality controlled electronics.

One of the most reassuring things about my good old belt driven RF-20 is it's worked 1st time, every time for the last 25 years and I'm sure it will work for the next 25 too - no electronic controls, no messing - single phase to the motor, on/off and reverse - job done.

Edited By Russ B on 11/04/2014 09:47:24

Thread: Plastic v bronze bushes/bearings
10/04/2014 14:50:31
Posted by Bob Brown 1 on 31/03/2014 15:28:47:

My concern with Oilon would be it's service temperature which is relatively low at 110 C and it's melting point being only 220 C.

iglidur® H370 as an example has a max long term application temperature of 200 C

plus you have to consider water absorption which can cause problems

I didn't realise the difference was so huge, I'll keep that in mind too thanks

Thread: Proxxon 150/E
10/04/2014 13:58:00

More than double the swing, 4 times the weight, almost double the distance between centres

A proper lump o' cast,

result !!

Would the C0 not better match the Proxxon's size/capacity (although the C1 is certainly a nice compact size) also worth considering the similar overall size but larger capacity, and much larger motor Conquest Lathe from Chester or CJ18 from Amadeal - free postage on the Conquest too....


Thread: How not to repair an X1 Milling Machine
09/04/2014 16:32:27

My X1L stripped the motor pinion but I managed to get a couple (or 3?) cheap from Chester and with slightly more gentle use I've avoided breaking any more.

I now have a WMD20V so I'm selling the SX1L this week but my plan was to make a belt drive using the cheaply available DB200/SL1000 pulleys which if driven directly from the motor would give speeds of 800, 1500 and 2600 rpm, I just never go around to it - I'm still tempted now but I have no idea why I'm so committed to it, I need to sell it before it distracts me...........

LittleMachineShop hosts a detailed drawing of the X1 spindle which might help if your thinking about it **LINK**

I also got a ridgid column sent over from them too, it was under £100 delivered and really stiffened my mill up, I think I have the dims for the adapter plate somewhere if anyone wants them

Thread: EN1A mild steel strength
04/04/2014 10:19:32

Would EN1A Pb (ie leaded) or a suitable friendly alternative offer better performance. I noticed some hex bar EN1A Pb on flea bay last week.

Thread: Plastic v bronze bushes/bearings
31/03/2014 15:00:33

I've been keeping Oilon rod in mind for such a purpose but I've not had chance to use it yet.

It's only a couple of quid for a 250mm Ø20mm bar from DirectPlastics

Thread: Moving Machines
29/03/2014 15:56:58

John Stevenson obviously has a point regarding the rolling poles, certainly if we're talking SCAFFOLD poles - I mean blimey that's asking for trouble - if it rocks off on one corner, its going to have a fair way to fall, and given the momentum and the angle it will drop to................ I think we can rule out such huge poles!

I still wouldn't be deterred - just like anything there are many hazards just waiting to cause disaster or injury and good practice and discipline are all that stands between safe success and failure or worse.

Here's how I "roll"......

This was done about 45 minutes ago, notice the poles they're 13-15mm diameter so if it does drop off on one corner, its not going anywhere or tipping to unsafe angles. Also I use 4-5 poles with a minimum of 3 under the machine at all times, and I don't use skids or anything like that as if it does run away, it just rolls off the poles and stops.

(Sorry for the terrible pun.....)

EDIT, John I wish I'd read your last post 2 hours ago! I would have cetainly created some rails and given it a go!!

Edited By Russ B on 29/03/2014 16:04:42

Thread: Shed for a workshop - any advice?
28/03/2014 21:31:25

A great source for these nice sealed gas heaters are scrapped caravans! I have a couple of these nice units - blown air central heating on the cheap, I wouldn't mind hooking one up to the mains gas at my new place once I'm in, get it running on a PLC I have kicking about and set it at calculating dew point.

Thread: Anyone bought Arc Euro Trade's metric Keyway Broach Sets
27/03/2014 12:26:26

I'm downsizing to just model engineering scale kit, someone is collecting my Bridgeport this weekend =(

I had considered a hand shaper - but a broach sets fits nicely in a draw and takes minutes from start to finish with excellent results and very little setup and measuring etc.

I can't think of any scenarios where I'd need to key or shape a blind hole that I couldn't design around - and in the rare cases, I could probably engineer an attachment for the lathe or arbor press that would get the job done if I didnt wan't to send it away to have it done.

Edited By Russ B on 27/03/2014 12:26:52

Thread: What's wrong with T nuts? (compared to T Bolts)
27/03/2014 10:39:17
Posted by Rick Kirkland 1 on 27/03/2014 10:24:52:

Oompa lumpa! Right on! Yeahhh!


Yeah, I like this too

I think ultimately, a T bolt, is a fool proof T nut, and a T nut with a damaged or blind thread is essensially a T bolt for all intents and purposes.

........... and an uncouth mechanically unsympathetic gorilla - is an uncouth mechanically unsympathetic gorilla cheeky

Edited By Russ B on 27/03/2014 10:43:08

Thread: Moving Machines
27/03/2014 10:37:25

I have a 2 meter floor crane (like an engine lift on steroids) and I recently (Tuesday) sold my RF25 (200+kg) and didn't use it, rolling poles all the way, it's quicker and safer if you ask me, lifting it is hard..... so don't lift it


Thread: Anyone bought Arc Euro Trade's metric Keyway Broach Sets
27/03/2014 09:42:41

Some great information on here, thanks to everyone involved.

I think I'm going to hold out for Amadeal to get their metric sets back in stock (sub £140 delivered - same as Arc's £200+delivery set - most unlike ArcEuro to be beaten on price but so be it)

Thread: What's wrong with T nuts? (compared to T Bolts)
27/03/2014 09:37:57

Surely this is a lesson in good practice - I'd never jack my T nut up using the bottom of the slot, and my T nuts, both made and bought all have 2-3mm clearance.

I screw the stud in, then I lift up and down to make sure I still have 2-3 movement, then I crack on with the clamping.

If the Nut is tight on the stud so much it can't be held by hand, then stud or the nut's threads are damaged, bent or stretched etc. etc. and go straight in the scrap bin to be reborn another day.

- I would expect the whole clamp assembly to be tightened finger tight, then receive a 1/2 to 1 turn to tighten, so even if it did tighten completely in the T nut, it still wouldn't stick out more than the 2-3mm gap under the T nut.

Thread: Anyone bought Arc Euro Trade's metric Keyway Broach Sets
25/03/2014 15:28:00

Thanks Jason,

It is just metric I'm after, I have noticed they cost almost 50% more than an imperial set of similar sizes - although only ArcEuro seems to sell them as a (budget) set.

I've been on Steelmans website this morning, and after going around and around the net I landed on Rotagrip at around £30 a broach delivered (I'll take some of their metric 123 blocks too since they're so well priced) although their ebay customer service did tell me that they are out of stock and do not know how long resupply will take, so I suspect purchasing on their website will yield a similar result.

I need to key a 10mm hole with a 4mm key, and I'm not sure if this is even possible - Arc's set only goes down to a 12mm bush and it looks like that could be the limit without getting creative. - I will have to double check that size tonight.

Edited By Russ B on 25/03/2014 15:32:29

25/03/2014 14:37:45

I just wondered if anyone had purchased any of the Metric Keyway Broach Sets from Arc Euro Trade or could recommend anyone elses- I'm thinking of taking the plunge on their £200 set for cutting aluminium pulleys - and I might even try brass/steel depending on how it performs

Thanks to all in advance,


Thread: Rollo Elf
24/03/2014 18:07:09

It's most certainly not MT0 lol

it hangs out 1/2 of its depth - I'm not sure what I measured..... I blued the taper and it just had a ring around it roughly 2/3rd of the way up, there was a step inside the mouth and it clearly just sat in it, so a morse taper is to steep - maybe it just doesn't have a taper

Back to the drawing board...

Thread: Storage - How to?
24/03/2014 12:34:13


I have the same unit, I think mine has 8 draws- they came out of a school office, I'm always on the hunt for more.

I lined & partitioned them all up differently, some I milled slots out of scraps of wood and ply, others I partitioned using strips of woods and lined with laminate underlay foam.

I recently purchased a Sealey AP2200 2/3rd size roll cabinet and top chest for £95 delivered in grey, its should hold almost all my kit, including the larger stuff, angle plates, rotary tables etc. It's not stunning quality but it's suitable for the job and I expect it should last at least 15 years with sensible use

It's same as this one which is £99 delivered **LINK**

Edited By Russ B on 24/03/2014 12:36:06

Thread: Column Alignment with Tilting Head Type Mills
23/03/2014 09:17:38

Hi Dusty,

I'm in the process of a complete strip and rebuild including 10k rpm spindle bearings and a quick blue and rescrape of the ways if necessary (as the current hand scraping looks a bit coarse for my liking), my concern was with the accurate reassembly and alignment of the machine with the swivel head (as I said I prefer measurable alignment as opposed to relying on something else to be square wherever possible)

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