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Member postings for Russ B

Here is a list of all the postings Russ B has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: ARC - PayPal and Credit Cards
07/08/2014 12:50:28
Posted by Oompa Lumpa on 07/08/2014 00:14:11:

Ketan, bury the £1 in your product somewhere, customers really don't like it. Been there, done that.

graham.

I know what your're saying Graham and sympathise, but I'd like to highlight something;

As the old saying goes, "you don't get awt for nowt" (that's probably just how they pronounce it where I'm from.....).

If people wan't to use credit cards with benefits, fine. If the retailer has to pay, and then spreads that cost to all its customers as an overhead - that's not fine. We're basically then allowing banks to take money from retailers and give it to people with credit cards in order to promote them to "borrow" money on their cards - it stinks.

I know you're not suggesting this is acceptable - but what your saying is tactically, this is the easy option, bury it and lets all just go down that path and allow it to happen, this silly card benefit bubble has to burst, or we'll all be paying for it not just it, but the increase in overheads required to deal with it.

Arc get my respect for telling us what's going on - I'd like to see that explanation on the website next to the £1 surcharge to enlighten people.

Edited By Russ B on 07/08/2014 12:51:43

Thread: Mach 4
05/08/2014 15:38:05

aaaaaaaah! the long awaited Mach 4

yes - well that's improved my day.

It looks like they've possibly improved (maxed out?) the spec of the Hobby package too, I seem to remember that package was a little limited in the number of axis it could manage. Very reasonable $140 price..... but no promise of an actual working package for the price which is a shame. I guess it's just the nature of their business.

Looks like I'll have to purchase more than just a new computer to be able to run it, I've just been on the Gecko controls site - I heard the new model will be the GM540 (I heard nonsense I think), presumably USB - but there is no sign of it yet, they estimated mid to late summer.

Edited By Russ B on 05/08/2014 15:40:51

Thread: British machine tools
05/08/2014 15:07:17

Posted by Russell Eberhardt on 04/08/2014 18:04:12:

.............The alternative is protectionism and decline.

Russell.

I agree completely and I've been spending a lot of time thinking about it, and I'm finding issues, not conclusions or solutions.

Doing any sort of trade in the UK.......

Consider fuel duty "A"
tax on premises (for storage perhaps) "B"
Energy prices "C"
overall tax "D"

Company 1 Buys stock and sell it to Company 2 - it accumulated A,B,C and D for them to get it and sell it.
Company 2 pay delivery to the courier (who has to pay A & B on his van and C on his storage, D overall)
Company 2 then pays B,C and D, to sell it to company 3 who then pay a courier....... etc. etc. around, and around - perhaps to the end user, who earn't his money from what little turnover company 1 made, who then had to pay tax on it as earning....

And why not consider, the cost of the machines that the stock or part was made on, which must be paid back - if that machine was also made under the same circumstances it's also going to have accumulated similar expense which will be pushed on to all it's "children" - the issue just compounds itself, again and again and again - where is all this money filtering too, and what the hell are "they"doing with it all?

How much did company 1, 2 or the courier actually get, the smart person would simply move company 1, 2, 3 and the courier to somewhere else in the world - problem halved or better?

every time you lift a cheek to fart in the UK someone either charges you money, you get taxed or you get fined - isn't it fun - I can see why other countries are better choices for manufacturing - and it runs far deeper than just labour rates.

no question marks! rant over laugh

Happy Tuesday!

Edited By Russ B on 05/08/2014 15:10:32

Thread: Printing
05/08/2014 12:08:53

Brian,

This depends as much on your operating system as the browser you're using (Internet Explorer - eghhh....., Firefox, Chrome?)

Perhaps first selecting the areas you wish to print will help you get what you want, while saving ink and paper too;

Find the end of the bit you want to print, left click hold and drag up the article to the start of the bit you want, let go of the left and then single right click and print, you should now just get the posts and headers selected

(I find this direction of selecting more controllable than going top to bottom!)

If it then tries to print this in the same odd way It's likely the printer preferences which could be specific to the printer your using or managed by the operating system (Windows?) depending on your setup.

 

Edited By Russ B on 05/08/2014 12:13:43

Thread: Quick Change Tool Post
04/08/2014 13:09:50

Graham,

I also received 4 standard holders this morning from A&R to add to my, now more gradually, building collection. The quality is incredible, they are a better finish than the Bison ones I have although they both fit equally well.

I'm saving up for their rear parting holder, and have asked them if they can make (some, many, one?) ER40 or ER32 collet holders suitable for the Myfords - ideally ER40 as if I'm going to buy a set, I might as well get the one that can grip the largest stock (30mm), which should cover many scenarios.

I realise it's probably best to make these at home on the lathe it is to be used on for accuracy, but my skills are not up to that yet and they seem like they could be made for a reasonable price.

Edited By Russ B on 04/08/2014 14:13:10

31/07/2014 08:45:08

Just to echo the other half of Martin W's comments about the lever going a little further with the A&R Precision holders in an Asian block - I suspect the T slots are machined slightly deeper in on the cheaper blocks, so in my Bison tool post, the A&R and Bison holders fit nicely, whereas with the cheapo one's I bought , the handle doesn't turn enough due to the slight extra thickness - time will tell if they want to jump out - I've not used them much.

I'd try to quantify this but I'm a little short on accurate metrology kit due to me just starting out - I'll bookmark this and add it to the to do list.

Perhaps in the future after gathering some measurements we could conclude that quality holders in cheap blocks is an acceptable combination, but cheap holders in quality blocks might be a gamble?

Thread: Moving Machines
18/07/2014 10:59:41

Martin,

Personally, once a machine is in place, and levelled and adjusted, I'd be very reluctant to move it as it will impact on the alignment of the machine be a lathe or mill (more important on a lathe I'd say)

Woodworking machines do not have a great deal of inherent accuracy and little adjustment compared to a precision metalworking machine.

I have my lathe on a wooden bench made from 6x2 timber with coach bolts in the legs for simple levelling - I installed it months ago and it's still settling so I'm going to bolt an RSJ to the underside of the bench to brace the lathe from underneath. Once it's settled I'll cement the feet in place (with polythene to act as a barrier between the fresh concrete and wooden legs) - I would much prefer a proper lathe stand/cabinet and if I see one, I'll be thowing the wood bench out straight away.

Thread: Which lathe
18/07/2014 10:49:12

Has anyone had any dealings with SPGtools. They look to be a smaller outfit than most, however their lower overheads are reflected in price. I met them at Harrogate and they seemed to really know their machines, they also had a range of off the shelf upgrades and accessories - belt drive kits for the popular mills, tumble reverse kits for the Chinese lathes all designed in house and warranted for use with their machines. I would recommend calling and not going on their website, as when something is out of stock, they remove the price, so you don't know if it's worth waiting for!

I was looking at a large lathe, the same as the Warco WM240 or larger (400 centres, I think it was 450 maybe) for around £700 with many extras that I'd added (face plate, 4 jaw, fixed and travelling steadies etc), One downside is they sell out of stock rapidly, but if your on a budget, it could be worth waiting for - I remember thinking, the prices aren't just cheap, its a whole different world!

They were Soumy or Suomey machines I think, these machines are not re-branded - apparently, they do have a website but I can't find it now, so I suspect I'm getting the name wrong.

Edited By Russ B on 18/07/2014 10:51:57

Thread: Myford Super 7
15/07/2014 14:01:04

As per the last 2 comments, the 4 step belt pulley should rotate freely from the bull wheel when the little lever is disengaged (the bull wheel should be at one with the spindle - it is keyed).

A few paragraphs out of curiosity, apologies if I'm telling you how to suck eggs!

When was the last time you gave all the oil nipples a hit with a push type oil gun - specifically the one in the back of the 4 cone pulley! (Wanner or Tecalemit push gun for example) -

Also have you read the manual?

The manual covers all aspects of setting up the machine for first use, from initial levelling which is critical to the machines accuracy, to adjustment of the spindles front and rear bearings which is absolutely critical to its health. It also sets out all the oil nipples and points as well as how frequently they should be oiled - the spindles front bearing on mine I think quotes one drop every 10 minutes - its not like a car, you can't service it every 6/12 months and hope for the best! cheeky

You can find the manual on google if you don't have it, and I can supplement you with the removed/replaced pages for the "old" style clutch and spindle lube system if you need it.

Again, eggs, apologies........

Thread: 2 stroke carburettor conversion?
11/07/2014 15:22:23

Being a child of the mid 80's I feel like I've missed out on so many elaborate engines, with almost every mass produced car engine being an L4, with the occasional L6 or V6 and a few deviations to the motorbike scene throughout the 90's - bar the sad loss of many 2 strokers =(

The only things that stand out in my memory are Volkswagen's 2.3 V5 (nothing really special) and the long standing but slightly fragile Wankel from Mazda. I have good memories of big 2 strokes as I fortunately grew up in the garage with my head between a Kawasaki H1 and a H2 (mums and dads). I know now Aprilia are closing the curtains on the final models in its 2-stroke range.

It all feels a bit sad and homogeneous and I'll be doing my absolute best to get my hands on a few special bikes during my lifetime and doing my bit to keep them alive! I'd like a rotary... but who wouldn't....... and a big 2 stoker along with a couple of classic race bikes, one 2, one 4 stoke.

I believe there has been a bit of stir about Norton producing a new Rotary engined motorbike - I'm not sure if they'd run in to emissions issues with the tip lubrication but I guess Mazda do ok!

Thread: Scams on ebay
09/07/2014 13:47:32
Posted by Steven Vine on 09/07/2014 13:38:42:

did not know that existed. thumbs up

Ditto, I'm installing that add on now thanks! laugh

Edit* also, if you use Google Chrome rather than Firefox, you've already got this feature - right click any image (almost any)

Edited By Russ B on 09/07/2014 13:49:24

Thread: Anti Corrosion for Electromechanical Things....
09/07/2014 13:42:14

Worth investigating VCI paper and emitters! Taken from VCI-Paper.com; (worth noting "VCI" is not a brand, it stands for Volatile Corrosion Inhibitor) If you purchase something delicate, or have something machine - it might come packaged with brown paper - chances are that's VCI paper - keep it!

VCI Emitting Devices

VCI Emitting Devices

VCI EMITTERS extend the working lifetime of electronics, reduce corrosion of all types of metals inside panels, circuit boxes and enclosures. VCI Emitters are compact devices available in open cell foam, sheeting, pouches, sachets, pipe inserts or easy to install adhesive backed domes. VCI emitting devices protect switch gear, electronics, enclosed packages, piping and electronic panels. Dome style inserts are made of a sturdy, moisture resistant poly.

Edited By Russ B on 09/07/2014 13:43:45

Edited By Russ B on 09/07/2014 13:44:37

Thread: Scams on ebay
09/07/2014 11:45:10

Geek alert cool Google searches for more than just words!

Open a google page, and at the top right, click images or use this link - or text search "images" perhaps..... anyway, get to the google images page here.... **LINK**

if you have a browers that opens multiple tabs(if you don't the theory is the same), as many do these days, have the listing open in one tab, and the images search in another - and click and hold the auction image, and drag it to the search box on your google images tab (hover over the tab "image in hand" and your browser will flick to that tab, then drop it in to the search box)

it will spit out a list of places that image is used. This is useful if people are using library pictures etc. as you can find the source of the image (Tesco direct or Chronos tools perhaps and so on) - try it with an image from someone's signature, and you'll get links to everywhere their picture appears! (there's two pages full for John Shepherd yes)

Well worth having a play with this powerful search function - it can uncover all sorts of information just from a picture.

 

Edited By Russ B on 09/07/2014 11:47:13

Thread: 2 stroke carburettor conversion?
07/07/2014 20:51:14

If the pipe is just 3mm OD the tolerance for a press fit is going to be hard to achieve or quantify at home (2.992-2.996mm ?)

Personally I would put it in a jig under the drill press or mill, drill it to 2.9, then ream quarter (maybe half) to 3mm and press it all the way in using a 2.5mm drill bit or silver steel with a drill stop as a shoulder to do the pushing - this should keep it nice and straight - I might even pop the brass nipple on ice and I would use a dab of Locktite for sure.

Educated guess and keen motorcyclist, not a metallurgist.

Edit* I see it's 3.5mm but you get the theory hopefully, I would also be sure to remove any sharp edges off the nipple, and perhaps spin it up in the lathe or drill chuck and add a small chamfer to help wedge in, 0.5mm x 20° perhaps?

Edited By Russ B on 07/07/2014 20:59:24

Thread: Will AXA toolpost fit on a Myford Super 7
30/06/2014 15:34:57

Well it's quiet in here........

For the benefit of anyone reading this in the future - possibly a beginner like myself, use Google to search model-engineer.co.uk and not the built in search box, or you'll find, as I did - you get very few results - where as google does some magic and searches deeper and may find someone mentioning something that is not in the title of the thread but may be relevant - and may have only been discussed less than a month ago - thus the members here are probably dishing out the silent treatment.....

The AXA (I think) is known as Type 100 in Europe, so searching for both could get you more results.


To conclude - an AXA toolpost will not fit without to much compromise or modification - personal opinion, just leave it alone unless your looking for a "quick" tool post that cost's you a fair amount of time, the 0XA are likely a great option, BUT....

As has been pointing out privately, the fact that "everyone" has the Dickson, (or Dixon) type, T00 means that holders are available 2nd hand from time, as well as from many other suppliers. Obvious I know, but I overlooked the benefits of being able to pick up extra holders.

Also the T00 are not so much a direct fit, as the bore on some is not spot on - Bison make the T00.B and T00.M - the M, possibly meaning Myford has a 7/16" bore and a lower overall body height, making it more suitable for the Myford, (as opposed to the B for Boxford?)

A and R Precision make the Dickson style T00 tool post, and all it's accessories they trade on eBay and go by the name of aandrprecisionltd **LINK**. I think they come complete with an adapter for the 7/16" bore if required - worth checking - they used to make these for Myford before they were liquidated in 2011 so they are the real deal, made right here in the UK.

Norman,
Looks like I'm going to be getting a Dickson type after all wink

Edit* please this post for more information and advice from everyone here http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=56964&p=3

Edited By Russ B on 30/06/2014 15:45:36

27/06/2014 19:44:58

Yes it's 20mb sorry - sadly they don't offer information any other way - but it's a nice read =)

I know the Dickson tool post's offer a high quality time proven solution but I prefer the expanding tapered gib of the wedge type tool posts, combined with the tool less operation but I guess that handle could get in the way

although a lot more complicated - It just seems like a better system ** for the benefit of anyone not familiar** rather than pushing or pulling a dovetail together the wedge type expands the dovetail and pulls the tool holder down against its level screw while expanding the dovetail and then pulling the tool holder flat against the face of the tool post. It's not a simple system you'd have to read page 29 of the brochure to see how it's all working together to provide that result.

The Dickson type likely offers more rigidity than that of the top slide sooo....... the weakest link could be argued - maybe I just fancy something different - plus the Dickson Tool Holder are very expensive for such a simple design.

I can import a 0XA from LMS for around £130 with vat and shipping fees (should be free of duty as its under the limit) it comes with something like 5 holders I think!! - There is cheap, and then there is TOO cheap..... I'd rather pay £200+ and get something made with a little more love......

Thread: Outstanding Service
27/06/2014 18:52:43

+1 for Arc, I ordered an SX1L and it arrived damaged (TNT rolled it) all damaged parts were replaced, I'm sure they would have replaced the whole machine as it meant a bit of running about on my half (testing and inspecting) but we were in it together and I'm willing to help them if they're helping me - had it being a more refined or expensive machine I might have been a little pickier. - (Edit, Just to be clear, I offered to check what/if was damage - I didn't ask for a replacement).

+1 for Chronos too, I bought a Soba Live centre, and while the point spun with little runout its axis was well off that of the shank - they have dispatched a replacement today - they also tested the centre for me prior to shipping and have refunded me the return postage amount already as well as confirming the fault on the old one.

Edited By Russ B on 27/06/2014 18:54:59

Thread: Will AXA toolpost fit on a Myford Super 7
27/06/2014 14:27:57

I'm not sure if I'm mistaken or not, I'm asking searching questions here - so any related info or tips, especially first hand advice would be great

I'm looking to purchase a quick change tool post for my Super 7, and I fancy a Dorian AXA size wedge type from MSCdirect. I have read through and I see that the minimum centre height from topslide is 0.875". Regards fitting an AXA size post to a Super 7 - from memory I think they are about 0.650" - am I mistaken?

This would mean losing 0.225" off the maximum tool height of either 1/2 or 3/4" (conflicting information online?). If this is 1/2", it would leave me with a meagre 0.275" - restricting me to 1/4" tooling or forcing me to grind away a little from the tool holder to perhaps squeeze 5/16" in?

p.s. Regarding the non standard 60% size version of the AXA know as the 0XA - I can't find a European supplier but I'll keep looking - they seem more suitable although perhaps questionable quality...... Tormach seem to make them for LMS in the states.

I wish the powers that be would revise the standard and release a 0XA officially! yes

Edit= link to the Dorian Lathe Tools Catalogue page 28 for the intro, 32 for the dimension table http://www.doriantool.com/wp-content/uploads/dorian_tool_lathe_accessories_catalog.pdf

Edited By Russ B on 27/06/2014 14:34:00

Thread: First time using a milling machine
04/06/2014 12:23:06

ok "almost 100 years" is a bit of exaggeration, 75 is more accurate - but you get the point

Andy (the OP, and anyone else reading this thread in years to come......) you'll notice a vast range of experience and many who get miffed by light headed folk like myself offering (largely bad) advice, please don't take it as advise, its just a shared experience and some inexperienced folk may not highlight that on forums (any forum, any subject) - picking out the good advice from the bad is a skill in itself in my opinion.

I consider my situation very similar to your own, and milling is a topic to large and to complex to understand without many years guided experience or proper education, face to face - but after many years guided experience certain things might be taken for granted like machine ability - and this is what I'm trying to highlight - a very different approach might be needed to overcome machine limitations on todays far eastern equipment and strange variables will creep in that were once taken for granted.

04/06/2014 11:42:47
Posted by John Stevenson on 04/06/2014 09:15:24:

On hobby machines you will have no maximum speed limit of Aluminium and the fast the cut the better. Run fast, light cuts and many of them.

Keeping in mind my statement "if it doesn't work for me, I'm probably doing it wrong" - we've essentially advised the opposite approach so I thought I might go in to my situation a bit more to differentiate as I've tried your approach and it didn't work at all - I was cutting a blind slot so those small chips had no where to go - I just made finer chips, and the cutting fluid turned it to a paste which polished and took the sharp edge off the cutter and just created more heat and the problem snowballed - I was eventually just melting my way though the material rather than cutting - it was obvious that flood coolant would have solved my issues but it wasn't an option.

I think your method would work well if drilling the perimeter and then facing to the final size with the work raised to allow chips to fall through which is obviously what the OP is doing.

 

For my blind slots then should you encounter any........
I went to larger cuts, lower speed (max speed on the low range circa 1000rpm, vs 2000 on the high range) - just a smear of lube applied with a brush to the surface of the material so it picked up a little as I was cutting and a vacuum constantly clearing the chips this gave me good results and I was removing material at a decent speed - no one has shown me anything so I am just making this up based on what worked for me

Edit* Worth mentioning, on my Chester 20V, 2500rpm on the same job, same method cuts at 3 times the speed with an even finer finish, so maybe my issues were to do with deflection on the X1 although it had a rigid column and I'd hand scraped the new column square to the table and it was pretty much bang on with tight brass gib strips and 0.05mm backlash on home made split nylon nuts - I could have gone to 0 but it started to drag a bit.

Another edit in light of Andrews post - thats a Bridgport if I'm not mistaken....... its a 950kg or more of mechanical marvel that's been recognisable for almost 100 years depending on the model - should we really be comparing it to a <35kg Chinese desktop machine to evaluate surface finish

 cheeky

Edited By Russ B on 04/06/2014 11:52:36

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