Here is a list of all the postings Russ B has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Indoor Lathe|
Wow that's a great space upgrade!
I wouldn't have thought noise would be to greater concern and if things are vibrating - well that's not normal in my books, what little use I've had with my Myford has been very very quiet, the motor is the noisiest bit - even parting off 60mm EN16 was smooth and quiet last night, a very satisfying noise came from the sound of metal peeling off the diameter
In terms of keeping things clean, AND atheistically pleasing, tacking a sheet to wall is probably not going to be satisfactory - and now you seem to be facing head heigh issues, would a bench at working height there not mean you'd bump your head and no doubt fling oil up on to the ceiling?
Perhaps you could setup a mini workshop in or on a Tambour (in a full height, on a bench height!)! that way your containing everything in there, with a full height - you've got walls, you've got sides, I would remove the lower shelves and build a wood frame inside and place an old kitchen worktop on it, and mount the lathe to another piece of worktop so you can use the lathe on it, or store the lathe under it to work on other things. Chucks, tools, stock could all be stored in the tambour, and tidied away by simply closing the roller shutter doors!
perhaps the bottom section could contain a piece of vinyl mat or just a roll of folded carpet that can be unrolled and folded out and then just rolled back in where your done.
A nice little CJ18 or CJ18A from Amadeal (they do one with a 100mm 4" spindle plate, very worth while having) would sit nicely in there.
aka the Warco "mini lathe", and "super mini lathe" (same thing slightly different)
SPG Tools "0618" and "0618A" (notice the pattern....)
Chester Hobby Store "Conquest" and "Conquest Super" (the pattern continues)
Arc Euro Trade do some nice machines too and I have experienced there great service, I don't think they do any really cheap machines like this - they are obviously not as well made as some of the more expensive machines, but many enjoy them and are happy.
There was another lathe supplier that I can't remember the name of, they had a simple website and offered a range of lathes - it's completely gone from memory....... similar green and yellow colours like Warco, lathes had numbers for model numbers..... it's gone, I can't blame it on my age, it's been a while since I dug all this info up.
I think when all my research was done I was going to go home with either an SPG 0618A, Amadeal CJ18A, or go bigger with SP2124 550, if I wanted something more long term (this became an option when comparing it's price to a Chester DB7VS which was much smaller and had no power cross feed (for facing) at a similar price - also I think some of them don't have reversible feed directions on the leadscrew which could cause issues if you need a left hand thread?
They're almost all the same, some of them are physically bigger capacity, most notably the larger spindle plate from one of the models sold by Amadeal and SPG, I think someone was selling a mini quick change tool post in the standard package which is nice but relatively easy to instal yourself - unlike upgrading to the larger spindle which is not really economical or quick!
It's a lot to consider - I don't envy you at all right now!
Edited By Russ B on 25/09/2014 17:53:12
Well that'll teach me me to press send when I've written something rather than forgetting and leaving it open for 2 hours lol
basically ditto what Neil said!!!!
I'm also on the same road, I start uni tomorrow and hope to get some time in the workshops, or just get chatting to the guys in there soon.
I would certainly think about creating yourself some sort of "easy clean" floor and wall covers - you could spend hours picking swarf out of that carpet
I would guess a local flooring specialist may be able to help with some vinyl floor off cuts and odd ends for free - if your carpet is very soft it may be better to put a piece of hard board "whatever's cheap" down on the floor (old laminate flooring, or ideally a single piece of MDF or chipboard)
Perhaps you could build splash back/sides to a custom bench along one wall, or along the back, perhaps a mini L shape??? - when you spin up the work piece it will tend to throw oil forwards not just backwards, so think about where its going to "fly"
Given the space I would build the bench at standing height - maximising under storage potential, my bench has a lower step at the end, I plan to mount my grinder and donkey saw to same size pieces of old kitchen worktop so I can interchange them and store them under the bench, or just fit a blank in place if I want maximum bench size.
I bought a cheap £100 delivered tool roll cab and top box (Sealey AP2200BB) - it's very cheap and flimsy but it does the job nicely and once it's got some weight in it, its ok. With a little care it will last me for a long time. - you will probably find that is just about the right size to hold all the things you will need in an orderly fashion, from HSS or insert tooling or both, to a bit of stock, your chucks, your measuring kit, change wheels, steadies, hand files etc etc - I found the budget cutlery trays made handy cheap inserts for the drawers.
|Thread: Myford super7 clutch|
Just to clarify - I don't oil my clutch =)
I mean don't over oil the bearing through the nipple in the pulley or the shaft boss through its nipple. When I got the lathe originally it was wet with clean oil, everything was covered and the clutch slipped all the time and had glazed over. I freshened up the clutch and the inside of the pulley with some emery cloth and after an initial bedding in, it has been fine since although does now need more attention, it starts to slip under moderate-heavy load - probably part and parcel of the old clutch mechanism, hence why it was one of the first things to change after just 6/7 years.
If I can't adjust it out, before I give up or try to replace the whole lot I seem to think the pulley might be softer than the clutch ring so I would look to machining it out and press fitting an insert in to it and machining it back to fit the worn clutch insert - how I would do that accurately with just the vertical mill would be the challenge. I do feel like I'm already expanding the clutch ring a long way before it starts to grab anything - I certainly don't want to over stress it and snap it.
Edited By Russ B on 19/09/2014 12:46:26
|Thread: Shed Lady|
"'I've been to design college" A good point Peter! Which is exactly the problem!
They're specifically taught to reject standard practice. Does an Architect build a building? No, he designs it, and is then forced to give the headache of making that fantasy a reality to an engineer who seeks compromise.
When I say Engineer, I don't mean the guy that comes out to fix your boiler, or diagnose your car - don't even get me started on that.......
|Thread: Really Silly Question - rpm facing off large diameters|
Thanks for all the responses, it's been far more of an eye opener than anticipated, I didn't think it would be such a wide topic for discussion. As seems to be a recurring case, a compromise between ideal practice and machine limitations, mixed with a good dose of operator adjustments on the fly seems to be the answer.
I've learnt about "Whittaker's Ring" which is interesting and also got an insight in to other peoples approach which is useful and will certainly help guide me.
Could anyone post of picture of the ideal "Whittaker's Ring" just for reference/education? - I say "ideal" its obviously more of an anomaly perhaps than an ideal?
Edited By Russ B on 19/09/2014 12:01:09
|Thread: Myford super7 clutch|
I have a 1953 Super Seven Mark 1 like yours, the serial number is on the back of the back shear, probably facing a wall - rather inconvenient to get you head round the back to read!
This is the supplement for our old girls - details the factory procedure for adjusting the old clutches as well as the old parts diagrams etc - this is just the removed pages from the commonly available latter manual www.usinages.com/ressources/file/15705
but here's how I do it.........
There is a large flat head dust cap that sits flush with the bottom of the pulley groove (large flat screwdriver required), under that, there is a hex head lock screw (not sure what size), and under that is the flat head adjusting screw (medium flat head screwdriver required)
I take out the dust cap, remove the hex head locking grub screw, then get my medium driver down the hole, disengage the clutch and then wind the screw in, engage, dis engage, and repeat until until the clutch lever stops a quarter inch from its full travel when engaged, I then disengage for a final time, back off the adjuster just a natts and remove the screwdriver, engage the clutch (to stop the adjusting screw moving) while ensuring the pulley hole is well aligned with the adjusting hole and insert the hex head lock screw, and then the dust cap.
Keep the clutch clean - don't over oil, if you over oil you'll essensially create grinding paste in the clutch which would result in rapid wear.
You should feel as the push rod rides up the notch in the actuating shaft with a little lump at the end, assuring you it's in the right place - if it doesn't feel smooth or catches, time to inspect it.
Edited By Russ B on 19/09/2014 11:16:25
Edited By Russ B on 19/09/2014 11:17:44
|Thread: Really Silly Question - rpm facing off large diameters|
Thanks for the input, it was just one of those little things that I could place. Hopefully in the next year I'll get to spend some time watching or working in the manual machine shop at Uni - just watching someone experienced do something very very simple will teach me a lot without any thought or spoken words or really any concious thought
"monkey see, monkey do"
SO....... this feels silly to ask but, If facing a large (say 60mm) diameter, the RPM will be fairly low for mild steel, say 200-250rpm? - but what happens when you get closer to the centre.
A few of my thoughts;
Would you stop and change speed via belts - perhaps maintaining and average of the speeds for a final pass?
Would you just slow the feed more and more as you get closer to the centre (this could get impractical if facing 4 or 5" above diameters)
I really don't know, but I would welcome some guidance or shared experience,
sorry the title is supposed to read "........facing off large diameters"
Edited By Russ B on 16/09/2014 14:58:32
|Thread: Rubber Sheeting on Offer|
|Thread: Myford S7 Saddle/Carriage wear twist and gib adjustment|
I would really like to fit locking screws to the top and cross slide gib so perhaps I'll do this at the same time I'll align up one face in the mill and then check the other and compare - one to the other and each to the unused rear face while I'm in there.
I'd really like to get things running sweet and nice as I go back to Uni this year (in a few weeks) so summer breaks (if I'm not busy working on assignments) will be the only gaps I get for bigger jobs.
Once again, I apologise for the use of both metric and imperial units - I'm sort of used to using both at work with imperial pipe, flanges, fittings and volumes on metric parts and machinery!
Measured at 1 inch intervals, none of the measurements deviate more than 0.015mm (0.00059" start to mid to end, most of it in 4" to 9" range peaking at 0.015mm at exactly 6" and that is the front shear width.
Interestingly the unused rear shear is not that accurate, its width tapers down towards the tailstock end - opposite of what I expected. it starts at 30.03mm and tapers down to 30.01mm at the tailstock - so its probably not a good datum but I still think that's pretty accurate.
thickness is 12.67mm the full length front and rear (front where measurable) but does thin out for just a inch or 2 around that 6" mark where it drops to 12.667mm (it was below 12.67mm but not 12.665mm so I went with that )
Overall it still seems relatively good, the "stiffness" I describe is nothing more than increased drag, I can still push the saddle to and fro with my hand - so I absolutely have to lock the saddle when doing any work as it moves so freely - I sort of wish it would be a bit stiffer. I faced a piece of 6" 2x1/2" hot rolled flat bar, I'll measure it flatness once I get some more time in the workshop - I didn't have to time to adjust the apron, another job for another day I think
hmm, very reassuring thank you CotswoldsPhil, it's nice to know my numbers are not unusual since you have 2 similar machines there - I assume your super 7 is before SK108892 as from that one onwards they were all wide guide's using a slightly longer casting (so I'm told )
I'm not sure I grasp if your referring to the front or the rear shear - or a combination of them both.
From what I gather the outside of the rear shear (ie the one at the back looking away from the operator) shouldn't have been touched on a pre-1972 narrow guide machine like mine so I will use that as a reference to gauge wear on the inside and outside of the front shear.
I read this before I bought the machine, and found it very useful, I'll re-read it **LINK**
Edited By Russ B on 09/09/2014 14:17:49
Edited By Russ B on 09/09/2014 14:18:20
Ok, I bang on here, I know, I'm just outlining what I have already (hopefully) understood and read on other threads, I don't think I actually ask much of question on this thread, I'm just looking for comments/reassurance I think?
If you can find 5 minutes for a little head scratch please grab a cup of tea, thanks in advance, and here goes!
Well, I thought the Myford I bought was in superb condition but I'm seeing conflicting info, the front and rear shears deviate a minimal amount in width and thickness from factory standard, and the carriage travels just by pushing it forwards and backwards the full length of the bed - ever so slightly tighter near the tailstock but oddly the apron fouls the leadscrew bearing block - too close but beautifully even, free and smooth - with my DTI clamped to the bed and resting on the front edge of the cross slide about 4" from the lathes centreline and with one hand grabbing the front of the cross slide, one on the back bearing down and twisting left/right with very firm force I get no more than 0.11mm of movement on the needle, locking the carriage reduces this to 0.7mm and moving towards the tighter end and locking reduces unclamped movement to 0.8mm - its pretty dam smooth, consistent and deflection free IMO despite being so free to glide about - I could reduce this figure as I can feel some rocking in the crossslide but its minimal - I don't have to time to go over the adjusting procedure again but I could get it better
I have set up the carriage gib by adjusting the first 3 screws which bear on the short inner hidden fast side (fast side bears on the inside face of the front shear, ie narrow guide) first by adjusting the outer 2, then bringing the centre in snug, and then finally adjusting the 4th one at the tailstock end gently so as not to twist the carriage or wear the corner off the fast side at the tailstock end.
Now I did notice when checking for the common "twist" on these narrow guide Myfords that the gap between the rear face of the rear shear and the carriage was slightly uneven from left to right but almost spot on, Further researching and reading Nigel B's comments in the thread "Lathe Turns Convex" and following various links here and there - points towards the general consensus that this gap should measure 0.0625" (1/16th" or 1.5875mm)
Measuring in metric, but talking in imperial for consistency with the community and past threads, I have a gap of just 0.014" aka 0.35mm on my metric gauges (headstock end) and 0.010" - 0.025mm tailstock end. this gives me 0.004" - 0.1mm deviation which I feel is exceptionally low/evenly worn, could anyone confirm this?
I'm just a bit confused, I don't have any large diameter stock or a faceplate to run a DTI on, I do have a very nice surface plate and a 150mm length of 75x12 mild steel flat bar - I'll grab that in the 4 jaw if I can, and give it a skim but I expect it to turn nicely given the carriage gaps described above and hopefully slightly concave - blue on the surface plate will be the test and given its long and thin I can probably slip a feeler gauge under it in the middle and quantify something - maybe
Has anyone seen a machine "this" worn before? - I'm thinking perhaps it was converted to wide guide and the 1/16th strip has fell out, or perhaps someone has scraped/corrected the fast side and took a to much out of it........ I don't know - but now after gib adjustments its running better than it ever has..... happy and worried at the same time!
Thanks for reading - what a long thread.......
Edited By Russ B on 09/09/2014 12:53:54
|Thread: Machining - sitting or standing?|
I also have a Bar type stool for the lathe, the fact that it doesn't move about annoys me, I tried a high desk chair but that was the other way and rolled about unevenly on the rough concrete floor when I wanted it still!
I'm a few years from 30 but an accident almost a decade ago means I can't lean forwards and hold myself comfortably, if at all - unless I'm willing to grit my teeth!
Edited By Russ B on 08/09/2014 14:05:40
|Thread: My first project begins!|
Well, finally after an astonishing amount of learning and spending, I began my first ever project. It took so much just to begin turning chips that I think I will start a blog or a webpage to further document it for anyone else wishing to start right from the beginning like myself (I'm of the age that metalwork was never taught in school).
So I purchased a lathe (Myford Super 7), and then needed a 4 jaw chuck (Burnerd 34M).
So I began the painfully long process of grinding a right hand turning tool on this cheap grinder, I just about nailed it free hand no need for a jig or fancy grinding rest. I went for general clearance/rake/relief angles of 10° all over with no back rake (just side) and a very small corner radius. I honed it free hand first with a credit card size 1000 grit diamond file and then with a 1" long piece of 3/8 triangle india stone, that used to be about 5" long till I dropped it........ whoooops =(
For the boring I didn't buy any round tool steel (I thought I had an old drill bit I could use but was mistaken!), so I just used a braised carbide tipped boring bar that came randomly with something else, it did the job nicely but needed touching up on the diamond file before first use as it was ripping rather than cutting and gumming up - once touched up it bored all the holes out from 7/16 to their final size (0.89" and 0.75" without a single issue.
I slipped up on the final finishing pass while boring the bottom end out to 0.890" I ramped the speed up to around 1000rpm, and it went through a wobble as it spun up (held eccentrically in the 4 jaw) - I knew there and then in the back of my mind I should stop and change back but eager to crack on, I went for it, and the resonance made a mess, its a shame, but it is bang on size.
The external radius that is turned down the top 1/2" is also leaving a resonant pattern, I think this may be as my top and cross slide are so loose. The weight of the unbalanced handle turns the screw and moves the slide if I don't hold on to them - I don't know if this is normal - maybe I need new feed nuts, I know the gibs need a little adjustment on the cross slide - the saddle was locked.
I'm working in imperial as the drawing, my lathe, and my stock are all imperial, once I'm more familiar with things I'm sure I'll jump between the two.
I'm pleased as punch, I made it yesterday morning and I'm still smiling, really enjoyed it, it is the sum of a lot of reading and learning, and spending of course.....
A picture to add to my thousand words
Edited By Russ B on 08/09/2014 11:34:56
|Thread: ER40 Collet Holder for the Myford Spindle|
Thanks for the input and very helpful link,
I knew I'd have missed something, it was a late night/early morning drawing! I'll get it revised ASAP.
|Thread: supercharged V12 2 stroke|
Your "couple of days" time scale is about the same as mine!
No rush or anything, I'm only on the edge of my seat
Looking absolutely superb so far!
|Thread: ER40 Collet Holder for the Myford Spindle|
I've got an ER40 Collet set on the way, so I thought I'd start thinking about making a holder for the Super 7. I've put a quick drawing together, no doubt something's missing or incorrect but I thought it might be worth sharing if others want a crack - check the dims yourself before you crack on.
Edited By Russ B on 14/08/2014 23:14:08
|Thread: British machine tools|
My personal opinion and more of a sensible conclusion to my earlier rant on this hot topic,
British engineering AND manufacturing is currently finding its way deep in to reliability critical areas, we're responsible for some of the most critical subsea gas and oil equipment where failure is not an option, add to that our involvement in industrial valves, mechanical and pneumatic handling, pelleting, solid (bio) injection systems, manufacturing for UK & US defence ,
It's all big business, its wealthy business and it's ensuring we spend less time doing smaller stuff these days (machine tools, especially small affordable stuff sadly) and more time raking in the 7/8/9 figure bespoke jobs around the world, usually, designing and consulting and not actually manufacturing unless it's really reliability critical.
I think the end result is, we can't afford our own quality, and we're looking way down on what's been offered to us - a good thing surely??
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