Here is a list of all the postings Russ B has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Workshop air conditioning|
Either way, I'd say an aircon system is capable of changing temperature so quickly you're bound to be crossing the dew point multiple times in a day - I'd avoid this at all costs. a gentle background heater able to maintain a low temperature and another gentle/moderate heater for comfort when your actually in there seems to be a popular choice -
I still haven't sorted anything for my garage but I leave a dehumidifier on 24/7, it only turn on when humidity is over a certain level (about 60-70%) - nothings gone orange yet, but now the nights are getting rapidly colder I might just have to adjust the humidity stat to 50-60% - My lathe and my mill are wrapped in very heavy bath towels when not in use so they are less sensitive to changes in temperature and are still able to breath.
John, yes my car does to, it's very effective, even on the coldest mornings with a cold engine and frost screen - garage wise, so long as your air con drains the water outside rather than one of the floor standing "mobile" units that just recirculates it if you don't empty it out every few hours/days
Edited By Russ B on 06/10/2014 13:28:28
|Thread: What did you do today? (2014)|
(Yesterday) I managed to spend a few hour slicing a 10ft length of 4" box section & squaring up the rough cut ends of 2 150mm long stubs to make a pair or riser blocks for the Myford, and I also removed the sharp edges from 2 roughly saw 1.2 & 0.7 metre sections will which go under the newly acquired Boxford AUD bench (its a very low bench!)
I plan to recess 2 pieces of 30mm long Ø30mm round bar to each 150mm piece (myford foot spaced), machined flat once cooled and then tapped M16x2 through, and I'll insert a bolt and nut to adjust the level of each foot, and the centre of each M16 bolt will be drilled and tapped M10 or M8 depending on what fits, so I can level with the M16 bolt lock it, and tighten the M8/M10.
The box section will be drilled & the table tapped to secure it all together, as will the box sections going underneath. Effectively raising the height of the table by about 225mm overall to around 950mm-1000mm with the M16 adjusters, this feels comfortable to stand at for me, and put the crosslide at approximately elbow height.
I'd like to fit some plastic end cover to the box section to stop them collecting swarf, and I'll drill and tap the ends of the long sections underneath so I can fit M10 bolts through them to jack the whole thing up and down to a rough level and mortar in place before the lathe is installed.
Edited By Russ B on 06/10/2014 12:45:28
|Thread: (UK) Which Prescription Safety Glasses|
Thanks again to all who have replied, I have read through all the comments and soaked it all up, I have my eye test tomorrow morning so I'll be discussing the options there and then.
I spoke to my dad who also mentioned that toughened glass is very very heavy option and not really practical as they'll tend to slip off when leaning over and end up damaged.
MichaelG. Thanks for the link, I have read up on this now, it's amazing what 15 minutes in the right place achieves!
So, options seemed to be limited to Plastic, slightly more expensive Polycarbonate, and then toughened glass in a price league of its own.
Polycarbonate is rated for that, and also smaller objects - a 6mm steel ball (0.86g) fired at 45m/s (150 feet per second)
I know which one I'd rather be wearing when stood near a machine tool! - I don't think it's optional, it has to be EN 166F rated - ie. Polycarbonate ????
Edited By Russ B on 03/10/2014 15:37:14
Edited By Russ B on 03/10/2014 15:54:28
I think they could be referring to the different lenses (plastic, polycarbonate., or toughened glass).
I know the sealed goggle type offer the best protection but I'm hoping I can get away with something more comfortable for lathe work?
I know different work places may have very different approaches to safety so I think I might be asking a difficult question.
I will be using these at University on a whole range of tool room equipment (mills, grinders, lathes, etc) as well as similar tasks at work and home.
On the topic of varifocals or plain, would it be best to seek advice from my optician or would anyone here care to offer advice and guidance (I'm short sighted, I've never used split lenses or varifocals but often take my glasses off for short work (1 metre being about the limit of my sharp focus, ie, I can see my lathe work, but my tools over on the bench are fuzzy till I walk up to them)
Edited By Russ B on 03/10/2014 14:43:33
|Thread: Floor covering|
Ohh, and no - I don't know what the kick boxers at the top of the article have to do with the price of tea in China.....
Epoxy? or what about Polyurethane - 3 times the wear resistance of epoxy, easy to apply and oil, grease and petrol resistant and also easier to mix with anti slip aggregate.
I'd recommend this as an interesting read, weighing up the pros and cons of Epoxy & Polyurethane - interesting reading if nothing else. This seems to be a website dedicated to all aspects of Workshop flooring construction, coating, painting and care/cleaning.
I didn't realise there was a difference between epoxy floor coating and epoxy floor paint - apparently there is....
Edited By Russ B on 30/09/2014 22:21:45
|Thread: How I made 55° gib strips for my Sieg X1|
The numbers I had worked out, to create the 55/125 angles were 0.42 Y to 0.6 Z. (I halved the step on the long X axis to make it smoother, as it was a bit long to accurately file flat by hand)
Since these numbers are only of use to someone who's either a beginner or perhaps doesn't come from an engineering/maths background the following advice seems suitable,
If you zero on the front of the strip which is aligned to the X, move your cutter back by the thickness of the strip - this will ensure you don't run out of stock as you cut forwards and lower repeatedly to form the angle .
When calculating the length of the face of the strip required try not to measure from the radius'd corners. You will need to know this length, as when you flip the part, align it, and then zero on the back sharp newly formed (and not yet filed down!) angle you'll need to know how far forwards to move and then add the tool diameter so you finish with the correct size part. - the Z is stubby compared to the X and Y on the X1
So you want hold the strip at 55deg in your calliper and measure the height (rock it slightly while applying light pressure on the calipers to find the flat spot - its a bit of a handful.......)
Then basic right angle trig will tell you the true length of that face, no need to guess where the chinese style unevenly deburred corners once were - the angle of the strip is 55deg, so the angle used for calculating the triangle will be either 35deg or 55deg depending which way you attack it - if when you solve the triangle the measurement you took is the smallest of the 3 sides - you used the wrong one of those 2 angles... so use the other the side your interested in should be the longest of the 3 given, the side you measured being the middle of the 3.
I also measured the size of the slot, which on my machine was much larger, I met half way and made it a bit taller - but still a very loose fit so it doesn't interfere with the mating between saddle and base.
- sufficiently mind numbing for you?
Measure twice, cut once..... and then mess it up anyway like I did - oh yeah, about that DONT use ball ended cutter it's really complicates calculations as you then need to work out offsets to calculate which part of the arc will touch the work piece - just leave it out, use a straight endmill with no visible corner radius.
I said arch instead of arc - ZAP!
Edited By Russ B on 29/09/2014 23:14:59
Edit, edit edit edit, I'm always editing!
I need to get one of those dog collars that deliverers a shock whenever they bark - reprogrammed to give me a jolt whenever I edit something, that'll teach me.......
This is what happened when society moved from hand written words and drawings to electronic methods - or perhaps, and to be honest, far more likely: I'm just a bit thick.
Sorry Ian, you've lost me a bit
Do you mean like the Gib on a Myford Super 7 top slide vs an ML7 (perhaps just the early ML's?), where on the Super 7 the gib piece actually forms the angle and is fixed to the topslide vs the ML7 where it "floats" on top of the locked adjusting screws - for the benefit of others: On the Super 7 only one side of the top slide casting has a machined dovetail, the other side (the adjusting side) is machined plain at 90° with no angle and has the usual tapped holes in the side for adjusting screws but then has 4 countersunk holes in the top Tee sloted faced for securing and locking the gib once adjusted. The gib which is rather large (much thicker than it is tall) forms the dovetail, its rear face (the one the adjusting screws bear on) is flat - exactly like the one your're machining in your very own 50's Super 7 in your photos
(Same as mine !)
The screws in the top that secure it must be loosened and then just nipped slightly tight so the gib is loose enough to adjust, but not loose enough to float about.
Also on the super 7, the adjusting gib, is actually 2 gibs, each having 4 screws, a pair to lock through the top, and a pair through the side to adjust - essensially they act as one large gib.
The ML7's have angles machined on both sides of the topslide casting and is just slightly wider than the dovetail on the carriage thus the strip is just a thin flat piece almost the exact same setup as the Sieg X1 slides.
The Super 7 method requires a wider topslide casting (or a thinner dovetail on the carriage) to accommodate the wider gib etc - thus the same amount of space could house a wider dovetail if the thin strips were used - but which is stronger...... swings and roundabouts?? - oh, and then there's tapered strips to think about, which personally I prefer, although they do require a more precise fit as well as meaning the opposing sides of the dovetails are not parallel - which must be a pain to machining accurately when mass produced on a budget.
Edited By Russ B on 29/09/2014 14:50:46
Edited By Russ B on 29/09/2014 14:51:41
Edited By Russ B on 29/09/2014 14:54:33
I've found my strips so if you want something for nothing, let me know and we'll work out how to get them to you.
The Z strip isn't right for reasons I don't remember - it will work but the rear face has a groove down it's full length which takes one of the acute corners off. I think the stock was recycled from something else and I started machining it from the other side, thinking I'd missed it. I can now see the strip is worn mostly on the diagonally opposite acute edge so the notch is allowing it to tilt slightly when tightened.
As its the shortest strip it is an ideal candidate for either 2 of the alternate methods described here.
Thanks to Peter and IanT we've now got a lathe method that will also be suitable for horizontal or vertical mills and a hand tools method. I think that gives people plenty of options if they don't happen to own a large table saw capable of cutting a groove the correct width, depth and angle out of a piece of wood- which I suspect is probably most people!
|Thread: Indoor Lathe|
I wish =)
|Thread: How I made 55° gib strips for my Sieg X1|
A chap who goes by the Alias Toolgrinding has asked me via PM how I made my 55° gib strips for my X1 back when I owned one. I thought I'd pop the answer down in a thread so its open to all as I don't think I've seen it done like this- I'm using what I've got, which is just a 4mm endmill, and a standard T slot clamp kit + the appropriate size spanner, and piece of wood to protect the machine table - oh and a calculator or a good head for numbers, if you've got a spreadsheet program you can probably use that to work out the numbers.
This is just my way, I don't have any of this sort of industry experience, I'm just using my head, I'm sure there's room for improvement.
I fastened the strip down to the table and aligned it to the X axis with the DTI (it was sat on a piece of old laminate floor board to protect the bed.)
I then took a small 4mm ball nose cutter and calculated the combined Z and Y movements required to machine the 55° angle through the strip and well in to the laminate (minimum 2mm to pass the ball nose) - I calculated about 6 steps.
Zero'd the Z and Y to the edge of the strip facing me, and started a surface pass far enough back to allow the cutter to drift forwards and down, forwards and down, and again and again, by the values I'd already worked out to create the 55° slope. (ie, I move Y, lower Z lock Y and Z, and then feed X the full length of the strip, and go to the next Z,Y positions)
I deburred & flipped the part and repeated - this time zeroing on the rear of the strip and again, back to the calc sheet to then work out how far forwards I need to start the cut in order to get the correct height strip (they were all slightly different on mine, and again, I made them slightly larger than the existing ones to be a better fit.
Once trimmed to length I did a quick test fit and blued the end of my already made ball ended adjusting screws to mark the 4 locations that I needed to spot face the strip - you should really take care here, if you drill to high or low, or have differences between the holes height or gap you could distort the strip - you might find it works to just not bother they will make their own mark in time at a guess.
I then planned on hand filing the steps out, but they were so close I just left it, I don't think the top and bottom edge are doing much anyway
The hardest part was measuring the geometry required, I seem to remember I had to remake the Z strip.
I hope that makes sense, fire away with the questions if you want -
Toolgrinding, I think I kept them when I sold the machine, if I can find the old strips in the garage (if they've not been recycled!) then I'll let you know, you can have them.
|Thread: SX2 mill - Is it man enough for :-|
Ketan PM sent to keep things on topic here
- pet hate of mine
I bought the SX1 from ArcEuro with the nice big 400 table and in the end I removed the tilting column and made an adaptor plate to fit the rigid column - it was a vast improvement and transformed the machine, ultimately the little 150w motor limited everything and as it was CNC'd the software was aiming for higher feeds and speeds than it could cope with, I had input the machines power and max spindle speed, plus an overall factor but it just resulted in the software generating lots of shallow passes which dulled the tools or trying to take fewer deep cuts very slowly which had a similar effect.
I think the wider rigid column combined with the large table from the X1 that Arc offer on their X2P offers a pretty capable machine for £600 - I don't think there is a machine on the market that can better it.
the SX3 is more than double that price, and throws it in to tough competition from machines like the Warco WM18/SPG 2217-30 LV/AMA30
Perhaps a middle ground could be struck with the Chester 20V,Amadeal AMA25/Warco WM16 - all these machines benefit from taper gib strips and slightly beefier tables - that's where the extra £200 goes I do remember getting so fed up trying to adjust the gibs on my SX1L that I remade them out of brass so I could just run them a bit tight and they'd still glide - previously they just seemed to loose or lock solid - I even remade the adjusting screws with ball ends and cleaned up the cups on the original strip but it didn't really help.
I don't think I'd let that put me off on the X2P at £600 it seems suitably priced, but I would hope the system worked better on the SX3 as I notice they don't seem to have tapered strips either -hopefully they are a bit thicker though - at more than double the cost, I'd hope so but I notice off the shelf gib upgrades are/were available a couple of years ago which is very telling if you ask me.
I like to get a copy of the manual or service guide from the sellers and flick through them to see how they're made to get a few ideas about quality and strength.
Edited By Russ B on 27/09/2014 14:57:07
Edited By Russ B on 27/09/2014 14:58:32
|Thread: Indoor Lathe|
Well, it's silly putting the word mature anywhere near me, but being a little way off 30, I'm certainly "older" than most of the students
I'm sponsored by my employer who released me 1 day a week so eventually I can be a little more independent from our senior design engineers who currently mentor me.
I have also met my other half and we've recently bought a house with a garage, and it has just enough room at the end to squeeze a few benches in, she insists on being able to still get her car in, along with my motorbikes so it's a real squeeze - but I've got to keep her happy!
We're not exactly awash with cash at these early stages of home ownership (we've been renting for 5 or 6 years to save for a deposit) and we both now put the majority of our spare cash towards a saving fund which will need to buy her a new car and then replace the early 80's gas central heating system and renovate the whole house. We have about £50-100 each month left over to buy ourselves things - so I have holes in my shoes and all my clothes, but a lathe and milling machine - my pants are so Holy they're actually starting to resemble Jesus Christ.
I suspect once certain things are sorted it's not going to be long before something else comes along that occupies all my time and money for at least 18-20 years........... and then just all my money after that. Thus I think now is as good as ever but things will likely hit a stage where they're mostly just gathering dust for a decade or 2........ and then I'll hopefully have the cash and space to buy something a bit fancier.
Edited By Russ B on 27/09/2014 09:50:07
Edited By Russ B on 27/09/2014 09:52:13
|Thread: Engineering Evening Class need members!|
I'm still in the transition phase, currently I'm about to hit Battlefield 4 online for an hour or so, then I'll head out to the garage to put a few recently learnt things in to practice.
In all fairness, a PS4 plus a large flat screen telly and a few games cost's a whole lot less to buy and use than a budget lathe etc. and you only need to learn forwards, backwards, left, right and shoot, and you can be a "winner"
depending on your definition of a winner.....
|Thread: Indoor Lathe|
Correct, the automatic cross feed (for facing) is just on bigger machines, - it requires quite a lot of components to implement and thus is fairly expensive and requires a certain amount of space to house.
The SP2124 550 that I referenced is 1.4 meters long overall, vs the DB7VS at just over half that! In terms of cubic feet, the SP2124 occupies 3 times the space in a room - it might just sit ontop of a Tambour, but even if you could squeeze it inside one, you wouldn't have room to spin handles at the tailstock end or open the guard to change the feed/screwcutting gears at the headstock end.
The SP2124 is like almost exactly the same (certainly in terms of features) as the more evolved DB10 Super, different body work, different gearbox, and probably other internal differences, they stem from the same bed design, The SP2124 is no lesser machine, just a bit more "old skool" (Well, old to me and you anyway)
Spoilt for choice really, there is so much to consider, as I said, I don't envy you at all, I was so relieved when I finally got my lathe, and even happier with the fortunate hand I was dealt - I ground a new tool last night for roughing, and it sliced 6mm off the diameter of a 50mm bar in one hit with power traverse, no sweat, no noise, the motor - it didn't even slow down, it just curled it away, I wouldn't like to try that with a mini machine!
Edited By Russ B on 26/09/2014 18:09:44
Hi Dom, thanks for the thanks!
No, ALL those machine have power logitudinal feed, its very standard on modern small lathes, you'll notice they quote a range of metric and imperial threads - meaning it can cut those - ie. traverse the carriage up and down the bed at a ratio linked to the spindle rpm - set it to the finest setting and it will traverse smoothly up and down.
These are Tambours, perhaps theres is a different name for them I don't know =)
Well it was my Sheffield Hallam Uni induction today, and as soon as I was done I headed down to the workshops to chat to some of the technicians, absolutely fantastic! I spent 2 whole hours chatting with one of them, he showed me all the manual mills and lathes, grinders and explained the ins and outs of feeds and speeds, gave me many many bits of help and advice do's and don't's, tool care, lathe cleaning - even when he was saying nothing I was learning and most importantly he showed me cutter geometry and grinding techniques. All 1 on 1, he had a few hours spare and was teaching me bits and bobs right up till he had to leave. I mean I couldn't ask for more, absolutely brilliant. I'm still smiling! I'm scheduled for a health and safety induction next week and after that I'll actually be able to get hands on, although there isn't much to do, it's much more of an extra curricular thing, you have to find time between lectures to get stuck in, their doors are open most evenings sometimes as late as 8pm!
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