Here is a list of all the postings Russ B has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Metal Cutting Power Saw|
I'm in doncaster if anyone wants to have a go with the Aldi bandsaw.
Edited By Russ B on 08/03/2019 09:32:42
|Thread: Older/cheaper lathes|
The best built quality old english lathe in the country won't give you any better results if its worn out or incorrectly set up. The latter can be rectified almost cost free, the former is a bit trickier, assessing a old lathe and determining how much falls in to each of the above two categories is key.
|Thread: Metal Cutting Power Saw|
I have Kennedy Hexacut and have just sold my Blackgates Power Hacksaw.
A few caveats,
Still, prefer it to the Kennedy and the Blackgates as it's quicker, quieter, smoother and more accurate - plus it comes in a nice blow mould case with blade storage that takes standard 1140mm bandsaw blades- Milwaukee manufacture 10, 14, 18 and 25 TPI bimetal blades (£19 for 3) as well as 10/14 and 14/18 variable pitch bimetal blades (£22 for 3) - the saw comes with a very nice M42 bi-metal blade as standard.
Edited By Russ B on 06/03/2019 13:24:13
|Thread: new workshop|
I used this method to mount a coolant pump, which on its own, is COMPLETELY silent, you can't even tell its running, unless you put your hand on it. As soon as it's rigidly mounted there is humming sound that just resonates through the whole house, it is now completely silent again (I didnt use rubbers as big as the ones in the link obviously!)
Edited By Russ B on 28/02/2019 10:55:37
I would guess the majority of the sound will not be air borne, so sound deadening on the walls and floors won't do much.
Mount your machines stands on anti vibration motor mounts, this will be the main source of sound that is passed through the floors and in to the walls, shaking the whole building.
|Thread: Welding helmet|
Just to be clear, I was not suggesting the cheap helmets give me arc eye?
I have 4 or 5 helmets, ranging from cheap fixed shade ESAB's to my £1200 3M 9100FX helmet with 9100XX glass.
I have just bought a 3M 9100FX helmet with 9100XX glass (its a modular system, you can get various different UV filters depending on budget). The auto darkening filter on this helmet is very different to the cheaper £130 100V, for a start when you turn it on, the shade changes immediately, so it's obviously using power to become clearer, when tinted it is also more clear the 100V, allowing me to see more of what's going on around my weld, more like the fixed shade helmet - it doesn't seem brighter, but somehow I can see more?
And finally, I also have a cheap Chinese helmet (ive had 2 actually, the current one was from Cromwell, the other was eBay) I wouldn't recommend them at all, they clearly give me headaches and sore eyes, I suspect the time they take to switch isn't any where near as fast as they claim and you get a bit of a flash each time you start, and possibly the UV protection isn't what it should be - I'm sure they claim to meet all the required standards but who actually checks, and who could be held to account. The one from Cromwell doesn't have a brand on it, I know it's their own brand but they aren't taking responsibility.
I'd happily have another £120 3M 100V although I haven't tried ESAB's offering for that price range so I can't say which is better.
|Thread: Motor for a Sieg X1 mill or (M1 attachment)|
I think you might find that motor is a direct replacement, ask the seller if he can roughly measure the square flange face on the motor and the shaft diameter - might just be a simple swap.
You lathe might also be the same but 250w to 350w ish - I'd put the new 500w motor on the lathe, and the lathe motor on the mill.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 back gear won't engage|
Sorry Chris beat me to it
check the vee pulley hasnt siezed to the spindle ie. with the backgear disengaged, release the backgear key and check that the spindle is able to turn freely from the vee pulley or visa versa.
Edited By Russ B on 06/02/2019 12:39:43
|Thread: Drawing Copyright - if any?|
I'm not just converting the drawing, this would be an entirely new set of drawings from scratch generated from 3D part and assembly files. It wouldn't be a straight 7/16" to 11mm conversion, I would use nominal sizes, whatever is cheaply available, I may even cheapen it off to more easily available "things" if I see fit.
I'd also be creating 3D printed items (certainly the gears for the drivetrain which I can accurately print from ABS and then make steel/aluminium copies as and when required (although it's far easier to just print another)
The original Jacobs machine (based on a prototype unit made by Tom Jacobs to demonstrate the process) was featured in Model Engineer from January to August 1976 and was fabricated not cast, intended to made at home, and then Helix Company made a set of castings some years after, followed by College Engineering Supplies, who also provided drawings.
Presumably, this is no different to what CES did when they created their drawings based on the original Jacobs hobbing machine?
I'm unsure who if anyone actually owns the design in principal, College Engineering Supplies clearly own the copyright for their own drawings, and Model Engineer magazine no doubt own copyright for the fabricated Jacobs unless used under licence from Tom Jacobs himself - or perhaps just accepted to free to use ??
What I want is for my drawings to be available to anyone free of charge, forever.
Just a question regarding copyright.
I've picked up a set of castings for the Jacobs Hobber (CES version + drawings).
- just to add to the above, I'd want to share my work freely/however I like if that's possible.
Edited By Russ B on 05/12/2018 13:53:57
|Thread: Where to learn Gear Hobbing?|
Thanks for these suggestions, they're going on my list of things to do!
Brian G's video hits the nail on the head, I want to make a small differential, for an RC truck although not that small!! I'm looking around 1/10th scale - however....... I'd love to make a torson differential on day. I'm sure by the time I actually get to the stage where I've enough knowledge and the skills equipment required to give it a shot, I'll have other interests, but for now, this is good.
I'm holding off on buying anything, this is purely academic for now, I have an 19 week old baby so I'm out of the workshop and into books now, although I do still get 2 or more hours to myself most nights during the week as both mum and baby go to bed early!!
I do not know how small a gear/worm I could make on something as big as that Koepfer (althoguh it looks very compact) I would guess, I might want to make my own miniature hobber, I've a slight inclination towards horology too, some of the things I've seen online are incredible pieces of engineering, and then when you realize the scale, it's just mind blowing!
again, thanks for these suggestions, things are becoming clearer, it's a very in depth niche though!
Can anyone recommend any literature on gear hobbing. Its something that's always fascinated me, I'd love to get a little hobbing machine and have a go but I'm afraid it would just be overly complicated to setup and wrap my head around.
I'd love to be able to cut the gears to make a small differential gear one day.
|Thread: Link: Naerok RDM-350M Mill Drill Manual and Exploded Views|
For Charlie, and anyone else missing their spindle speed sticker - it isn't actually in the manual, perhaps it depends on your motor?
I haven't verified that my motor is original, or that these are the actual speeds, my RDM is still in a shipping crate on my to do list at work.
Here's a link incase the below ever stops working - as they eventually tend to.
Edited By Russ B on 07/03/2018 16:16:15
I'd much rather shop locally, and don't mind paying a little bit more to do so, but when they can only offer sub par goods that's a problem, and when they then want to charge the same or more as online shops charge for good or average quality goods, that's a moral line crossed and my opinion becomes that they can now go and fornicate with themselves.......
I think there is a demand for a place like Maplin's on the high street and hopefully if they vanish, it will leave an opening for someone who's not stupid enough to light both ends of a candle.
Good riddance to bad rubbish.
|Thread: Magic erasers, useful|
I'll have to give these a go!
I've always been a fan of good old plastic erasers, I use a Staedtler brand "Mars Plastic" - marks and grot on painted walls, computer cases etc etc vanish (so does the paint on soft matt emulsion if you keep going at it so its just a gentle job, dont go ballistic)
Edited By Russ B on 16/02/2018 14:41:42
|Thread: Homebase garden shredder chipper deal|
Bill, I think you'll find these are two very different types of shredder.
The one from homebase uses a sort of gear wheel rotating slowly at 45rpm to hog lumps out of branches, you set the choke width using a hand wheel on the ouside, it's kind of like a thickness planer. They chuck about 5 or 10 lumps out a second.
Ady1 how are you finding it, I'm very tempted since I have the flywheel type, and these slow gear type things make it looks so much easier!
|Thread: Link: Naerok RDM-350M Mill Drill Manual and Exploded Views|
IanSC, I was disappointed with the R8 spindle, I thought it was MT3 which would have made for nice cross compatibility with existing machinery/lathe etc but never mind, it's still a superb machine for our little odd jobs and modifications. I think they were sold with MT3 or R8.
We have a Pinnacle drill press at work, and that's made by Naerok, I think I've seen a Rexon and that looked the same too, I'm guessing they're all made by Naerok (now out of business I think, no doubt lost the price war against Rong-Fu)
John, I've sent you a private message regarding the mods. What model Grizzly has this type of column raise/lowering arrangement.
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