By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for bugbear6502

Here is a list of all the postings bugbear6502 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Plan/Design for spanner roll?
17/07/2019 11:20:47

Yes - with my woodworking hat on, I have heard many horror stories about putting expensive chisels in "premium" leather rolls..


16/07/2019 14:46:15
Posted by 34046 on 16/07/2019 13:55:24:

Canvas spanner rolls, 12 pockets on ebay for £3 may be worth a look at.

Just a thought but wife says it may need an industrial quality machine depending on material ?


My Sis has a rather lovely, and robust, Bernina. It has sewn (in its time) 3 layers of leather!!


16/07/2019 12:26:32

I was wondering wether the pockets should be flat or pouched, wether the whole roll should taper, or should the pockets merely taper within a parallel roll, wether the seams needed reinforcing, how the roll should be secured shut, wether a top flap is needed.

Plenty of design decisions over and above the particular size of spanners held...


16/07/2019 11:58:05

I have a nice accumulated/carboot set of Bedford metric spanner (8mm-22mm).

I would like a nice roll to store them in.

(conveniently, my retired sister taught domestic science all her life and is an expert seamstress).

Does anyone have a plan for, (or at least a nice example of) a nice spanner roll?


Thread: #10 stock?
29/04/2019 09:31:33

Conclusion to the tale; since my pins were 16mm long (not the standard 25mm), I ordered 5mm silver steel to make my own.

Checking it would NOT go in the holes (bar one!). An electric drill and some 100 grit SiC was used to reduce the stock, checking with a mic to try to keep it reasonable parallel. The stock got very hot.

Starting at 0.197 (imperial mic!) it kept checking. At 0.194 the stock started to slide into some of the hole, so I didn't take it down to 0.193. I then sliced my workpiece down into 16 mm slugs, with a nice chamfer filed on the ends.

I think the accuracy of this fit is coming from the formica (or similar) surface of the carcase. I'm pretty certain that chipboard can't be worked to these tolerances.

Thanks again to all for your practical advice and experience.


23/04/2019 13:03:45

As members will know, measuring a hole is a good deal harder (or requires less common equipment) than measuring a pin.

I can say that only one of the holes I tried (there's a whole rack of holes, to allow shelf repositioning) would accept the back end of a 5mm drill bit (which I checked to be very close to 5mm).

I will order 5mm stock (or pins), try to fit them (possibly with a "tap" and possibly emery them down a bit.

Thanks to all for your advice and thoughts.


23/04/2019 10:36:20

(note; I do not own a functioning lathe)

I want to fit an extra shelf in a kitchen cabinet. A shelf is just a bit of plywood, but I need more of the little pins (that fit in the holes in the carcase) to support the shelf. The carcase is fully drilled out with a rack of holes in all positions.

I think the kitchen is from the 1980's, and made by "Xey", a Spanish company.

I've carefully measured an existing pin, and the size is very odd.

It's 0.1935 inches, which is 4.915 mm.

Googling shows me this is (number size) #10 (which is VERY surprising for a Spanish company). A kitchen fitter has told me these pins are "always" 5mm.

I have checked 3 pins with 2 different micrometers. It's definitely #10, despite my kitchen fitter's advice.

Can I get #10 material in the UK? I can see American suppliers with it, but I've found no one in the UK.

Failing which, how feasible is it to reduce 5mm drill rod diameter by the requisite 0.085mm (3.3 thou), using the hallowed electric drill and wet 'n' dry method?

The carcases are chipboard, so enlarging the hole by the requisite tiny amount would be tricky and error prone.


Thread: A matter of trust...
05/09/2018 08:51:33
Posted by Howard Lewis on 04/09/2018 20:48:24:

If you want to make a new point for the scriber, you could sacrifice a good quality 2.5mm twist drill, (or even a broken one) and sharpen the shortened shank to a point.

It works well for me!


Indeed - 2.5mm and 1/8" drill bits are now on my "look for" list.


03/09/2018 11:15:37

I picked up a nice little Eclipse #220 pocket scribe yesterday, for no money (OK, I paid 20p).

The reversible point was (as usual) stuck, but the usual combination of lubricant, cleaning, and careful application of force got it out easily enough.

Sadly, it was snapped.

Checking my other 220's (it turns out I already had 2), I discovered that the newer models have a 1/8" (0.125" ) scribe, while the latest acquisition (which I judge to be the oldest of them, it's more nicely made), had a 1/10 (0.100" ).

Tricky. Where does one get 1/10" stock?

Re-checking (with a vernier'd micrometer, not a dial caliper) showed that the 1/8" point was very accurate indeed; 0.1248", only two-tenths off. Wow, Eclipse make accurate stuff!

The 1/10" was not so good, a coupla' thou short, 0.098".

Not very accurate. Hmm.

Acting on hunch...

0.098" in mm is 2.489.

Re-checking the micrometer, the actual reading is more like 0.0985", which is 2.502 mm.

It's METRIC (and bang on accurate, too). I should have trusted Eclipse all along...


Edited By bugbear6502 on 03/09/2018 11:16:16

Thread: Gib material - Is brass best?
08/11/2017 08:59:17
Posted by not done it yet on 08/11/2017 08:26:04:

If the OP had set his question as simply 'which material is best? ' rather than 'is brass best? he would have received better replies.

A bit like 'is carbide best?' for cutting tools rather than an enquiry as to which material is best. Often 'horses for courses', so no best for all situations.

If I knew enough to ask the perfect question, I probably wouldn't need to ask any question at all!


Thread: New (to me) small, old lathe; how to proceed?
06/11/2017 08:55:26

I'm just in the process of sawing and filing up some TINY pieces of the metal for gibs.


31/10/2017 09:01:17
Posted by john carruthers on 31/10/2017 08:53:33:

I'm a bit late but if you look in my Flexispeed album there is a manual for the Meteor II, very similar to the Simat 101.

Already found, downloaded, and collated in to a single PDF - Thank you!


Thread: Gib material - Is brass best?
30/10/2017 12:58:38

Having googled, I learnt that normal gib strips are quite big. The gib strips on the Simat are 2mm or less thick.

I've been rummaging in my scrap box for sheet steel I can cut some strips out of. I have some pressed steel parts from an ink jet printer that look promising.

I have read that the Simat top slide (held by a single hex bolt) is not very rigid, and best removed (if you can manage without it). I have evidence that "someone" took this seriously. In my "bits" pile I had a small slide, that I was going to use as a focusing/traverse for focus stacked macrophotography. On close reinspection it's the top slide from a Simat!


Edited By bugbear6502 on 30/10/2017 13:02:29

Thread: New (to me) small, old lathe; how to proceed?
27/10/2017 16:51:23
Posted by Lambton on 08/04/2013 17:43:12:

You will probbly have to machine a chuck back plate to suit the lathe spindle then any suitable diameter chuck can be fitted to this backplate.. If you can only justify buying one chuck always go for a 4 jaw independent chuck..

I have looked into making a backplate, and it appears technically "plausible"

However, I can't find any trace of small (enough) chucks that actually use a backplate. All the small-enough 4 jaw independent chucks seem to have a one-piece body.

This is further supported by the fact that the smallest semi-machined backplate I can find is 4" ; even the "tiny" mini-lathes are 7x10 (and up) where the Simat is 4x12 (aka 2x12 in English).

Although... checking the advert the Simat is 5 1/4" in the gap, so a LOW profile chuck could have a large diameter. But "low profile chuck" and "having a back plate" are again contradictory.

BugBear (googling for information and products)

Thread: Gib material - Is brass best?
27/10/2017 13:39:51

I stand corrected; in truth I was speaking from a part-memory that (in wood working tools) brass adjusting nuts on steel bolts are used because of low friction, so I extrapolated that brass/steel is a good sliding combination.


Thread: Fast Workers?
27/10/2017 13:34:43

Google again;

This guy has a page of Steam Plans, and it includes LBSC's crane, listed as "Model Engineer Steam Crane"

It's a 4 page PDF of the original article.


Thread: Gib material - Is brass best?
27/10/2017 10:54:41

In my tweaking of my little Simat 101, I was trying to make the slide rest move better (and conversely, stay still better).

I discovered that the gib strips were some kind of delrin/tufnol type material, and were nearly pierced completely through by the adjusting screws.

Should I attempt to find one-for-one replacement, or would brass (easier to obtain, in any case) be an upgrade?


Thread: Fast Workers?
26/10/2017 15:12:02

Google to the rescue!

crane bought secondhand


Edited By bugbear6502 on 26/10/2017 15:12:35

26/10/2017 14:06:30

I've been reading Model Engineer magazines from 1953

The late, great L.B.S.C. published a design for a steam crane. This was simplified right down, and was intended to be made by reader as a Christmas gift for a suitably deserving child.

The article was published in mid October?!


Thread: New (to me) small, old lathe; how to proceed?
20/10/2017 08:53:25

Either my little lathe is worth a fortune, or there's an extreme optimist on eBay.

Listing of a Flexispeed Meteor II, in fairly rough condition, out of focus and/or shaky photographs.

Starting bid £900.00, collection only. surprise


Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
TRANSWAVE Converters
Eccentric Engineering
Eccentric July 5 2018
Meridienne Sept 2019
Advertise With Us
Allendale Electronics
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest