Here is a list of all the postings Hillclimber has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Holding End Mill on small lathe|
Dont try to hold endmills in a chuck, they are quite likely to slide in/out. An ER collet works, and is what I have been using so far, or there are end mill holders for standard size endmills.
Easiest way to manage the y axis is with a vertical slide attachment.
What is the lathe?
|Thread: Amolco milling machine|
Found a pic from something I was chasing a few ago. The slot drill is being held in a 3/8" Myford collet....
I think the intention with these is that you would use your trusty Myford 2MT collet set, hence the presence of the threaded nose for a Myford collet retainer.
Otherwise, a bit of threaded studding without the lid on, as John suggested.....
|Thread: ARC Catalogue No.11|
My own copy arrived this morning in an appropriately plain envelope. Best kind of bedside porn.....
|Thread: Holding screw-end end-mills/slot-drills|
Thanks for all this input.
No. I have not actually had a cutter 'drawn' on an ER collet either, but aware of the hazard. Understanding that, and looking at my collection of fleabay cutters I wanted to explore what the alternatives are.
Assessing all of this (and another thread or two) I reckon I'll be saving those beer coupons for something else....
Until now, I have held end-mill/ slot-drill cutters in ER25 collets. And am aware of the hazard of these being drawn out.
Hence considering toolholder alternatives? I have seen specific-diameter toolholders that work with a grubscrew on the flat of throwaway cutters. But are these commonly threaded internally to be able to accept screw-end cutters too? Or is there another type of holder for these that I have not seen?
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
Neil, sadly I did not take pics on the way. Which is strange, because I usually do.
So I asked myself why not and concluded because it had been something I 'needed' rather than something I was 'making'. It didn't become the latter until now, when it is made! Sounds strange perhaps, but I guess I didn't impart any emotional value until it was complete...
Other reason, I think is that I was following the excellent Hemingway instructions, along with the original GHT article. The only issues I had with these were the cursory description of silver-soldering in the two blades. I made a little jig to hold them perpendicular from the offcuts to do that, by reaming a 5/16" hole in the casting stub and sticking the offcut from main shaft into it. And I think they say something like 'the thumbscrews need no comment'. Well they did for me, with a little thought on how to thread as much of their length as possible.
Finally finished this little GH Thomas tool height gauge today.
Quite over-engineered, really. But a happy experience with this kit from Hemingway. And in fact the first time I have worked with a raw casting, or turned a thread. So worthwhile, as well as necessary.
|Thread: Rack operated tailstock|
Paul, I've been busy in the last few weeks finishing small projects that have equally been on or around my workbench, so I could get back to doing the things they were intended to help me with!
If you have a sketched idea kicking around, it would be great to share. Otherwise expect to my thoughts next week or so....
Paul, have you completed that drawbar/ejector yet? And do you have any piccies/ drawings?
I acquired one of these a couple of weeks ago. Spent 15 minutes fitting it this morning, and used it for its first job. My first thought was 'why did I not get one of these before'? The second was 'shame it doesn't self-eject, but upside is that it will take a drawbar'. And the final one was, 'I bet you could make a combined drawbar/ejector' - before remembering that google is my friend.
So any and all help welcome with that design.....?
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Top Slide Base - Alternatives?|
Reopening this old thread, I finally realised the significance of Adrian's comment about the thrust pads being handed. Yesterday I was scanning a parts list and found that the right and left pads have different part numbers. Today I was cleaning and adjusting my cross slide.
I had noted that despite my caution in nipping up the pads on the topslide, there were new, uncomfortable marks where why former topslide base casting had broken (like Nicholas's). So I pulled out the pads and sat them on the casting, where they also looked uncomfortable - flipping them around, they looked more naturally poised.
It is difficult to describe the geometry of the respective surfaces, and I have no idea how to tell the pads apart visually. But knowing that they are different, and checking for natural 'poise', I'm hoping this is the solution...
|Thread: Dore Westbury Boring/ Facing Head instructions?|
Ega, many thanks.
Speaking of helpful photos, thanks. Having seen these, you tantalisingly left out any image of your boring bar...? I have details in drawings, but wonder what you are actually using?
Firstly, thanks to everybody who offered help and sent me additional information. All greatly appreciated.
I now understand better use of the indexing bracket to advance the tool in facing operations, and the 'stop'. The square bar holds two driving pins that engage with the toothed sprocket, rotating the threaded spindle and advancing the tool held by the head. The fun bit is that at the limit of the head's advance, the spindle can no longer be turned. So the toothed sprocket, which has become the 'fixed' element, then forces the square bar to be rotated against the force of the sprung fingers held in pin below, and it is then indexed in 'neutral' by the same sprung fingers.
I have also confirmed that the tool is designed to hold a 5/8" boring bar, and have reread GWT's chapter on boring tools - which I remembered while checking the reference piece on this boring head in his Workshop Manual.
Edited By Hillclimber on 06/10/2019 15:27:34
Pages 255-257. Thanks for this pointer, he starts by castigating the thing then says 'it's all detail'. Introduction of a pad clamping bolt did look like a good idea.
Bill, if you could email these to me it would be great, I shall PM you.
Also, one good turn deserves another, if I can help provide photos of the indexing bracket and components to assist you in manufacture, please do let me know.
John, many thanks - this is precisely what I have, including the all-important crossed indexing bracket. I see you have taken the precaution of typing 'out' onto the bar holding the indexing pin, and I assume it says 'in' somewhere on the other end.
One particular mystery is the purpose of those two small parallel rods on the rotating pin on the lower, front corner of that bracket?
Just acquired a Dore Westbury boring/ facing head. Before I begin to mess around with it using the 'suck it and see' principles, I wonder if anyone can point me to a copy of some instructions? Or perhaps an old construction article in one of our favourite publications?
Indeed, if anyone has pertinent experience.....?
|Thread: Myford 4-Jaw Backplate|
No shrink fit. When the chuck and backplate were finally assembled at common ambient temperature, they were a beautiful smooth fit.
I just wanted to ensure that the chuck was warmer than the workpiece when machining. The biggest pain with my larger 'for Myford' 4-jaw is that the fit is so tight it becomes awkward to swap it on when it emerges from the cabinet and the machine mandrel is already warm through use....
Clive, I hope 'we' got that one right?
The alarm bell was that the bolts would not have passed through the clamping faces with my initially-considered approach. This makes more sense.
Wielded the hacksaw to reduce the cast backplate somewhat before finish machining. Caught a good fit on the register, sticking the chuck in the AGA earlier helped. Now ready for those smaller parts that warrant higher speeds. This chuck has been in a drawer the past year, and pleased to deploy it now.
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