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Member postings for Hillclimber

Here is a list of all the postings Hillclimber has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: SENIOR Mill for someone?
06/05/2022 17:28:41

Can I ask politely about which auction house this is? That's a Centec 2A with a mk3 vertical head, unless I am mistaken?

And the word 'steal' comes to mind...

Cheers, Colin

Thread: Fabricating a Weber Carburettor Manifold Flange
22/01/2022 13:41:48

I must admit that I am stuck, imagining how to rejet a DCOE at the back of that engine compartment? You could be in the position of a major, multiple dismantling exercise as you work through the possibilities - the world's longest rolling road session could be your record.

Might be worth reconsidering your choice, simply on that basis?

Cheers, Colin

20/01/2022 14:09:37

Ask, and you shall receive. DCOE flanges in aluminium £25 from the Bay of Fleas....

Thread: crispy fluffy roast potatoes
06/01/2022 11:41:21

Sure, but it'll never heat-treat EN16....

Thread: Anyone in Norfolk want an Amolco bargain?
04/01/2022 11:26:39

This just popped up on gumtree in an unrelated search. A very cheap Amolco on some kind of home made base, for very little money.

No connection etc etc...

Cheers, Colin

Edited By Hillclimber on 04/01/2022 11:27:27

Thread: Floor Paint
18/12/2021 16:26:32

Neil, this stuff is your answer. It is a water-based low VO epoxy floor paint. At least they have 3 different shades of grey! And a green and a red to boot. I expect you can colour the lightest grey to something else.

It is what I use on garage floors - cement and wood. Works a treat, hard, and no big VO problem (after the first couple of hours).

Cheers, Colin

Thread: Guillotine
10/11/2021 12:12:01

For sheet metal (aluminium and mild steel) I swear by a Gabro 2M2 nibbler, and a pneumatic nibbler for curves. A Shetack saw can also be useful in some instances.

Above that, a cutoff wheel in a grinder of one sort or another.

Cheers, Colin

Thread: Synthetic paint thinners PT8 vs. white spirit
31/10/2021 12:10:27

What's the difference?

I have thinned Paragon enamel with white spirit perfectly successfully for immediate application by brush from a cup. But have found that thinning a greater quantity in a tin, sees the white spirit separate back out over time - leaving a goopy enamel below.

So my advice is to use PT8 if you're adding it into the tin and expect to put its content back on the shelf.

The other thing I'll say is that the Paragon chaps genuinely know their paint. I called up when I had a problem with enamel 'matting' and they talked me right through it after discussion with the paint department. I simply had not stirred it to the point of pain (is that why it's called paint?). Total result, and lovely people.

Cheers, Colin

Thread: GH Thomas S7 topslide improvements
26/10/2021 12:34:37
Posted by John Purdy on 25/10/2021 18:23:15:

Also did his modifications to the cross slide collar and added the quick retracting topslide. The later makes screw cutting so much faster.

John, I can only express the deepest envy at the quality of your work here. The micrometer dials are gorgeous, and beyond my capacity and experience.The problem, as always, is time. I am trying to press on and deliver some essentials to allow me to do the 'real' projects I have. And even affording me the luxury of the minor work I undertake on my lathe is at the expense of other metal-bashing. Although I dont ever regret it when I do.

I did install one of Steamer's resettable leadscrew dials and love it. And just wish that someone was manufacturing other items such as the gearbox and dial for GHT's retractible topslide. But I guess that the designs may still be tied up somewhere by copyright restrictions?

Cheers, Colin

25/10/2021 17:14:07

Isn't PTFE rather too compressable for that particular application. ?

regards Martin

Any loading will be unidirectional with the topslide set normally, right? So we only need to consider each of the wafers, which are respectively about 20 thou of an inch with a surface area of about 0.4 sq inch.

I have not sought to calculate the axial load on the cutting tool, which will be transmitted directly through the wafer. But at that thickness (thinness?) and load area, it does not seem to me that it would be going very far? I certainly see this stuff being used for high-load applications, albeit that I am using what I assume to be a virgin PTFE.

But other thoughts are welcome....?

Cheers, Colin

25/10/2021 15:55:56
Posted by Rod Renshaw on 25/10/2021 13:20:12:

You may find an article on Woody's Workshop website on incorporating roller thrust bearings into the top and cross slide feedscrews interesting.

Rod, thanks.

Tell you what though, I bet I can cut two PTFE wafers quicker than many could say 'roller thrust bearing'....

Cheers, Colin

25/10/2021 11:36:19

Just finished 'the' GH Thomas S7 topslide improvements - pinning the gib and adding a little thumb-operated topslide lock. These seem useful, and good motivation to generally strip, clean and pander to the assembly.

GHT mods

I actually bought a complete, 'ugly' S7 topslide from the Bay of Fleas a couple of years ago, intending to try this out without affecting my original. This was prescient, as I promptly broke the original base casting and swapped it out for the newly-acquired. The tapered stub had evidently been cracked by a bit of excess 'nipping' while the left and right pressure pads had been reversed, causing the tips to dig in and induce the crack. But the topslide itself had been sitting in a drawer since.

But nothing is thrown out around here, and that broken base became the answer to clamping the topslide while drilling for the gib pin, after the broken stub was machined-off - this is the bit where GHT talks obliquely about 'clamping it as best as you can'.

GHT clamping

The only other thing I varied from the GHT instruction was that rather than fiddle with the screw to work out where to position the thumb turn, I simply fixed it in place before trying it. I then filed down the finished tip to get it in order. The thread pitch of 2BA is about 32 thou in old money, so it wont be much - but do ensure that the leading tip is a 'full' 1/8" at the kickoff.

That ugly topslide was then cosmetically improved by rebuilding the corner collision marks with J-B Weld. And a layer smeared on the mounting surface, before being 'just' faced off with a flycutter and painted with Paragon enamel. Finally, new gibscrews added and the whole assembled on the bench.

The other thing I tried is the thin white line you might see between the end plate and the screw index dial. I added two PTFE wafers, cut from 0.5mm sheet with wad punches. I have previously ripped thicker washers from a piece of bar, but they seemed a bit clunky.

Anyway, now done. And it all feels jolly nice to use.

Cheers, Colin








Edited By Hillclimber on 25/10/2021 11:38:34

Thread: Gabro folder HELP!
11/10/2021 11:54:54

I assembled my replacement components yesterday and can now use my Gabro folder to manage interrupted folds that include angular pans and some particular tabs - it can now be operated much as other pan folders, as well as 'Gabro-Style'.

It's easy to see the general layout from the wonderfully-clashing shades of green. From the top: the bed-raising, which sits in the conventional bed and located by rollpins; a bending plate, sized to the fold and made in a number of lengths; the Packer, my own including offset holes drilled to provide finger pulls; and the Bending Plate Channel, while the Spacer is located behind and cant be seen.

There is also a picture of a knockout tab being bent on a piece of scrap, to illustrate something of what is now simplified. Looking at other pictures on the web, I dont think the older 'plain' green machines were equipped with this facility?

Cheers, Colin

gen layout.jpgtest piece 1.jpgtest piece 2.jpg

Edited By Hillclimber on 11/10/2021 11:56:43

Thread: t-bar material advice
11/10/2021 11:36:27

Advice taken, and noted.

Neil, I'm going to x-drill this thing just once, but 5/16. Jason, and use the tommy bar conveniently fixed in my trusty chuck key to work it. John, that's sound advice for the smaller t-bar I'm missing for my small vice.

Thanks to all.

Cheers, Colin

10/10/2021 19:56:44

I finally got round to making a new locking nut for the toolpost on my S7. Hex nuts obstruct the toolholder on the Multifix QCTP I use, and I am quickly turning an internally-threaded piece of round bar to replace it.

But, rather than using a permanent ball-end handle to tighten it, I intend to cross-drill it (twice) and use something like a simple 6mm t-bar through the closed top.

The question is nonetheless a general one. What is the best material for little cross-bars to tighten threaded objects, that might be able to take a gentle tap without turning into a worm, or shearing? Simple EN3 bright bar? Silver steel? Something more technical that should be tempered?

All thoughts, please?

Cheers, Colin

Thread: Gabro folder HELP!
03/10/2021 18:00:34

I'm travelling this week, and cant show pictures. But I finished my construction before leaving, and painted the relevant bars, to assemble upon my return.

I cheated in respect of the bed raising plate, by buying a new spare from MJ Allan, which has them available. That fixed any alignment question in that respect. But I was pleased with the alignment of the additional replacements I needed for the the bending plate. Used an aerosol of Paragon's 'Startrite Green' hammer finish, and found it was a delight to use and produced an unusually good hammer finish. But, of course it's the wrong green (and no it does not matter, and it will stay that way).

Cheers, Colin

16/09/2021 12:37:15
Posted by not done it yet on 16/09/2021 11:42:46:

That brake looks to be a very capable machine. A lot of money for a two foot bender

I doubt any sane person, and certainly not anyone on this forum, would buy a new one. But they appear regularly in bay of fleas for a few hundred pounds. And there is a 1m version.

My advice, if looking, is to wait for one with a stand (they weigh close to 100kgs) and a lot of loose bits. I am now paying the price in terms of reinstating this one. But they are a joy to use.

Cheers, Colin

16/09/2021 10:52:14
Posted by Baz on 16/09/2021 10:21:28:

The pins are offset, just tried the bar on the machine and it comes flush at the front. Hope this helps.

Immeasurably. Baz, thanks.

Cheers, Colin

16/09/2021 09:38:24

Colin, good spot. As it bothers to specify installation detail of front edges, I do wonder if the roll pins are central? Over to you, Baz...

For 90x6 BDMS, I see it sawn to size here...

Cheers, Colin

15/09/2021 17:56:12

I think I have reached the bottom of this one.

Baz, let me correctly identify the three pieces of metal that you have. The 3x50x560mm piece is the Packer. This is dropped into the bending channel to block the Bending Plate. You have a single Bending Plate, which is the piece 6x90x600mm. The machine's full set was identified by Colin H as 12, 25, 50, 100 and 600mm (although I doubt I would use these sizes myself, if making them)..

The third piece you have is the Bed Raising Plate, although I struggled to identify its correct width. It seems to be 1/4" narrower than the bed itself. With the roll pins located centrally, the leading edge of the bed is displaced rearward by 1/8" - but I think this makes sense when realising that the Bending Plate extends forward from the folding bar.

The bending channel is formed from a Plate Channel Bottom of 3/8"x3/4"x22 1/4". Which provides the space to hold the combined Bending Plate and Packer, with a 1/2mm tolerance when fronted by the Plate Channel Front of 1/4"x1 3/4"x24". These have a series of eight holes through which 6mm screws pass to locate them to the fold bar.

Thank you both. Now the search for some of these bright bars commences....

Cheers, Colin

Edited By Hillclimber on 15/09/2021 18:08:17

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