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Member postings for choochoo_baloo

Here is a list of all the postings choochoo_baloo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Colchester Master Mk1 lifting + moving advice
01/11/2019 21:31:35
Posted by Bikepete on 01/11/2019 19:52:32:

After answers to the following questions I'll outline how I would approach the job. But first:

(a) Will you definitely have at least one able-bodied helper? Possible an experienced volunteer from the forum might come forward to assist if you disclose a rough location.

(b) Is the pallet it is on now solid and not rotted?

(c) Is the lathe secured to the pallet at all? If so, how? A picture minus the tarp would be helpful.

(d) How does the height of the step into the workshop compare to the height of the pallet?

(e) Does the workshop doorway have a sill above its internal floor level, and if so, could this be temporarily removed? If not removeable, what height is it above the internal floor?

(f) In the last picture, is there plenty of space 'behind the camera'? Asking because it looks as if the lathe will need to be swung round so as to enter 'end on' into the workshop. If there's not the space for it to approach the doors at a right angle, that could complicate things.

Edited By Bikepete on 01/11/2019 19:53:08

Many thanks for the direct Qs Pete. Here goes:

a) Yes I will have 2 others who are fit and mobile

b) Almost certainly yes - will double check in day light tomorrow

c) No. Just gravity. I do have a few decent webbing + ratchets in a box though. I don't know the correct way to ratchet it down to the pallet. Below photo is the lathe just before being covered up.

d) Approx 200mm

e) No the sill can't be removed. The sill's approx 30mm above concrete floor.

f) Yes there's a reasonable patio off the right edge of the 3rd photo. (The gravelled area beyond bottom edge leads onto lawn bordered by sleepers, so not feasible.)

delivered_machines.jpg

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 01/11/2019 21:32:00

01/11/2019 16:25:02

The route photo's are below. I realise it was hard for you chaps to advise without knowing the 'lie of the land".

route1.jpg

route2.jpg

route3.jpg

01/11/2019 12:50:33

Just had another idea: wouldn't a pallet truck with a lifting facility do everything?

I would lay substantial OSB across the patio as well to cushion the ride. At the step up into the workshop, I could have the engine crane + eye bolt to do the final positioning.

Thread: Additives to kerosene for degreasing?
30/10/2019 16:27:41

After realising I'm gunna need a load of degreasant for the next project I hoped there was a cheaper way than 2.5L Gunk cans from Halfords (thought Gunk is excellent stuff!).

...I just bought a 20L can of kerosene from a local heating oil company, for a fraction of the cost, unsurprisingly.

Is there something(s) I can add to the kerosene to improve its cleaning/degreasing performance? (I'm yet to try it neat).

Thanks in advance chaps.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 30/10/2019 16:27:58

Thread: Colchester Master Mk1 lifting + moving advice
29/10/2019 22:25:07

Thanks all for the helpful input. I know the time it takes to sit down a write a comprehensive post (I’ma slow typist by modern standards!) This is an excellent forum for noobs like myself.

I’m away from home atm - will post pics of the route tomorrow.photo

28/10/2019 21:18:48

Thanks chaps. I'm away from home so can't readily uncover the Master to check, but RE lifting eye bolt some places mention a steel plate that sits over the ways that seems to support the eye bolt.

Do I also need this plate, since this manual photo suggests just the eye bolt is needed - can't see a plate too?

dscf0932.jpg

28/10/2019 00:30:20

Dear all,

I'm finally able to move my under-cover Colchester Master Mk1 into it's proper home. It's still sat under tarpaulin from delivery.

The plan is:

  • Lift off the pallet onto scaffold poles
  • move about 50 yards on flat-ish ground,
  • lift up a step into the workshop

I've never moved a lathe of this size before. First step suggests an eye bolt + engine crane? What is the thread of the tapping in the lathe bed for the eye bolt?

Any advice will be gratefully received.

Thread: How to de-oil an oilstone?
20/06/2019 15:44:34

I inherited a well used two sided oilstone 6 x 2 x 1 inches.

It is noticeably cratered and has pretty grey sludgy coating all over. In other words it's well used! [I'm sorted with the flattening.]

However I'd like suggestions on how to de-oil it/flush out the old stuff in the pores. Then I can re oil with fresh Nuto H32.

Thanks in advance.

Thread: Should I have 3 phase supplied to my house?
11/06/2019 16:23:35
Posted by not done it yet on 09/06/2019 19:56:07:

Well I never! Surprise, surprise! Didn’t really need a thread and people’s time and input to sort out a simple comparison.

I would normally ignore this sort of remark, but you've hacked me off by doing it twice in this thread.

What we don't need is your flippant remarks. Aren't we lucky that there are such clever people like you about who know all of these things.

As a newcomer, I remain grateful for the advice I continue to get from 90% of contributors on this site.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 11/06/2019 16:23:54

09/06/2019 18:53:31

As mentioned above, I've now had a 'ball park' figure from my Network Operator:

  • 30kVA capacity for my large 4 bed detached house + workshop + lots of headroom @ 3 phase.
  • My local sub station has plenty of spare capacity
  • Mains cable runs right outside my house under the footpath. In other words they stressed my house is in the ideal configuration for this work/minimal cost (no cutting up highways etc).

£3100 + VAT

so that's that! Included the above details in case it may help someone else gauge the likely cost for their own project one day.

I will go the converter route from Transwave after all. idea

Thread: Recommendation for a 3 phase electricity book?
07/06/2019 00:21:55

Can anyone recommend a book giving an overview of "3 phase" for a non electrical engineer?

This book seems to fit the bill...but at £100 I think I'll pass for now!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Three-Phase-Electrical-Power-Joseph-Fleckenstein/dp/1498737773

(NB I am a physicist by trade, so the fundamental science and maths should be fine. It's more the application that I want to better understand.)

Thanks in advance.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 07/06/2019 00:22:08

Thread: Use a router for a mortice lock
31/05/2019 13:34:44

[This is mainly aimed at the chippies out there!]

After researching fitting a 5 lever mortice lock, I've decided to hire a router and use a template accessory. I understand it's crucial to the function of the lock to get it right first time. I'll likely fit locks to other doors in the futre, so an investment too.

I can only seem to find mortice lock jigs costing ~£100 - can anyone recommend something cheaper?

Thread: Should I have 3 phase supplied to my house?
30/05/2019 00:38:58

Hello chaps.

My home workshop build is nearing completion, and thoughts have turned to the supply for my 3 off, 3 phase machine tools.

I've contacted Transwave about their converters. Seems a good option.

Someone suggested getting a 3 phase supply quote from my power distributor (Scottish Power). He reckoned it would be comparable to the total cost of phase converter + electrician wiring to the out building.

Any advice appreciated.

Edit: Just discovered that the jargon for the company operating the power network after the National Grid is "Network Operator" e.g. Scottish and Southern

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 30/05/2019 01:03:01

Thread: Help identifying Swiss files
23/04/2019 01:47:31

Hello all. Please can someone clarify what these Swiss/needle file cross sections show,

1. I assume each face with single hashinh = single cut.

2. A blank face (no hashing) = safe edge?

3. Therefore are Swiss files e.g. Vallorbe always single cut?

swiss_files.jpg

Thread: How to level BOTH the Myford cabinet and the lathe bed?
21/04/2019 00:17:34

That's all helpful chaps as usual.

So to confirm:

I should set up the cabinet (with the 4 anti vibration feet) roughly level - a slight headstock incline should I wish - but ensure load is spread across all 4 feet.

Do the 2 dia turning test as normal, with no reference to the *cabinet*. Therfore I don't need an engineers' level at any stage?

20/04/2019 01:32:45

I'm hoping to move my Myford ML7 on Myford cabinet into its new home soon. Having used a piece of thick carpet whilst 'playing about' in its old home, I want to set in up on anti-vibration feet, https://www.myford.co.uk/acatalog/4-MACHINE-ANTI-VIBRATION-PADS-1768.html

to:

a) make future movement easier to raise offo of floor

b) sit better - high speed is a tad shaky

...but after watching this detailed video on lathe setup:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIDL77qt1tI&feature=youtu.be

I don't know why go through the fuss of using an engineers' level on the machined ways to get the cabinet wrt floor level, when I then readjust the bed following the critical 2 dia turning test (for bed twist)?

I understand the importance of the 2 dia turning test. But this would surely nullify using the bed previously to level the cabinet?

Please clarify for a newcomer!

Thread: Refitting belts on Myford Tri Leva lathe
19/04/2019 23:34:24

I've replied inline to your reply Andy. I am also struggling to fine tune my Tri-Leva.

Posted by A Smith on 18/04/2019 12:24:06:

It is important to tension the motor drive belt first because that will affect the distance between the three drive pulleys and the spindle. I now use one of the segmented, cogged belts & it has been completely satisfactory. To get the right grip, this belt should be tensioned so that there is no slack but it's not tight enough to pull the driving (top) spindle down appreciably.

CCB: Just to be clear, are you referring to the motor to counter shaft (~6 in diameter pulley) belt? A "Fenner" link belt? I have the original V belt and it's looking a bit tired...

Having done this, with the other three belts slackened right off, adjust the tension of each belt until it just grips.

CCB: Sorry I don't follow - the 2 cone pulleys (countershaft & spindle) are fixed relative to each other - hwo can one adjust them? Or are you referring to to the slotted thumbscrews for this "adjust the tension of each belt"?

This may require a lot less tension than you expect. The belt tension should be just about discernible as the speed selection lever is pulled down. If it slips when you're taking a normal cut, just tweak it up slightly.

With the motor running and with all three levers right up, the main spindle (mandrel to some) should not revolve at all.

Hope this helps.

Andy

Thread: Moving from Warco WM180 to a Myford ML7B ?
09/04/2019 23:39:41
Posted by Kevin Murrell on 08/04/2019 16:56:20:

Dear all

I have the chance of changing to a (used obviously) ML7B from my first lathe which is a Warco WM180. Would I be excited or disappointed? The Myford is big enough for what I typically do, but I like insert tooling - would the Myford be fast enough?

Thanks all

Kevin

Kevin, I'm a relative newcomer, but here's my input:

Comparing a club workshop "Chinesium" lathe (which I've used a bit) vs my similar sized home Myford ML7 good/very good condition, the Myford is just better built throughout. Full stop.

As I've learnt from the chaps on here, plain metal mass counts for a lot in terms of resistance to flexure, rigidity etc. The Chinesium lathe I mentioned was just a tad flimsy and 'fold up sheet' like. The Axminster ones I fiddled with in their showroom were mediocre in my opinion too.

Yeah the spindle bore aint great and the white metal bearings are inferior to modern designs, but there's a reason they're the 'old guard' for model engineers (yes the prices of some Super 7 are stupid)!

Thread: Refitting belts on Myford Tri Leva lathe
09/04/2019 23:26:17
Posted by John Greenwood 2 on 09/04/2019 18:00:08:

Also the head stock is very stiff. The white metal bearings were a bit scored

Hello John. V8Eng and I were discussing Tri Leva maintenance the other week.

  1. I was adjusting those thumb screws over the weekend. Those thumbscrews have a slot milled in the end that cup the pulley blades (see V8Eng pictures above).
  2. You thus need to push the pulley blade from the front of the unit, since a spring holds the blade within the slot when that lever is in the up position.
  3. Whilst the blade is held back (under spring tension), simply twist the knurled head to get the require pulley-on-belt tension once that lever is depressed.

Hence do NOT attempt adjusting the thumbscrews till the blade is away from the slot - you will simply bugger up the thread as V8 has alluded to!

Ask again here if I can help any more - the chaps on this forum have been very helpful to me over the years nerd

Thread: 2 pack, enamel...paint advice please!
03/04/2019 23:39:07
Posted by Peter F on 03/04/2019 20:58:33:

.......

If you want some more advice on which gun to buy, let me know.

Will send a PM Peter.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 03/04/2019 23:39:22

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