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Member postings for choochoo_baloo

Here is a list of all the postings choochoo_baloo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Can I combine primers on aluminium?
25/05/2020 00:46:26

The original paint on a cast aluminium guard was badly cracked all over and was flaking. It had been built up with high build primer like they always used on 1950/60s machine tools.

Today I applied Normfest aluminium aerosol primer to the scrupulously clean metal. The can makes clear to apply one coat, but says it's "overpaintable".

Can I apply a (ferrous) brush-able high build primer I already have onto this, to build up the layer, since I already have a tine of it?

Wanted to check before diving in! Thanks in advance.

Thread: 3D Printed Newtonian Telescope
04/05/2020 19:22:36
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 04/05/2020 12:45:02:

I use Mizar and that means the pattern was very small. I'll try again on a very bright star like Arcturus which might be a bit easier to work with.


Yeah sounds a good idea - much higher S/N ratio. If poss can you share a picture of the diffraction pattern? Would like to see the pattern you're getting.

03/05/2020 19:05:17

That's bloody good Neil. Do you get a 'trinity' type diffraction pattern around bright stars at the eyepiece?

It used to get on my nerves when using my Skywatcher Newtonian when starting out in astrophotography. Speaking of which below is the promised photo of my astro rig. You'll see the mould is all gone now


Thread: Getting a milling head ready for use
01/05/2020 12:51:35
Posted by Steviegtr on 30/04/2020 23:58:33:

Out of interest can you tell me the hp rating of the motor you have .

Originally fitted 1/3 HP single phase.


s_motor - 1.jpg

30/04/2020 23:52:13

Special thanks to both Simon W and Nigel M for patiently typing up their instructions.

Success! Tonight I finally broke the taper. Below account should help a future reader in the same situation.

  • Chocked the S head on the concrete floor
  • Spindle rotated so that wedges are vertical
  • Hefty steel block as anvil just touched bottom Jacobs wedge
  • 1/8 mild steel bar used as a drift on other Jacobs wedge
  • One medium blow with 3lb lump hammer on the drift
  • Autolock gently 'popped' off

No damage or S head surgery needed thankfully. So thanks again chaps. I do appreciate the input in helping a newcomer. yes

wedges - 1.jpg


Next puzzle is the anatomy of Clarkson Autolock. It is stamped "Type C". I think this warrants a new thread though - to aid future readers who may also be struggling with their C type Autlocks.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 30/04/2020 23:58:18

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 30/04/2020 23:59:13

29/04/2020 22:33:36

No joy tonight, and I now have a pair of Jacobs wedges stuck too..

1. Tried the spanner on flats + tommy bar in back ring - wasn't budging. So stopped to prevent any damage.

2. Tried Jacobs wedges that I had lying about. The vice handle is now approaching static, hence the wedges are stuck, with no sign of breaking the MT2!

Simon et al, I have a feeling we're talking cross purposes, so please study these photos to confirm I've attacking the right parts.

What now?

Thanks chaps.


29/04/2020 12:45:15

Thank you Nigel and Simon - I know it takes a while to type out thorough replies.

I kind of follow both of you. I think it's a case of a picture paints a thousand words. So I shall take post so close ups, annotate them, and post inline quoting your above replies, to check which part corresponds to which step of your instructions.

As said, one lesson I have learnt is to fully understood the method first, without rushing! Will post in a little.

29/04/2020 02:10:47

So I attempted to remove the Clarkson Autolock. Drawbar head backed off 2 turns, even a reasonable whack with my copper head hammer aint shifting that taper...thought I should stop before damaging.

Is it just a case of a really firm whack? I have a 3lb lump hammer - think I'll try that with a block of wood.


Secondly I do not understand how this Autolock device actually works:

  • that pictured spanner is a sloppy fit across the flats on the end nut - is this intentional?
  • what are those 3* 120 deg spaced holes on the big ring on the Autolock body for?
  • I read on this thread that folks often wrongly assemble their Autolocks, can someone break it down in simple language for me?

all in all a bit mysterious.....please advise!


Edited By choochoo_baloo on 29/04/2020 02:18:26

Thread: Lathe Refurbishment
29/04/2020 01:41:39

Looks cracking! Well done for seeing it through.

Thread: Removal of rust patches from old V belt?
28/04/2020 20:09:35

Quick question please:

The "F&F matched" V belts for my mill have some a few rusty patches that look like crispy potato skin, sat on top of the belt. I assume the absorbent belt drew some moisture/surface rust from the static pulleys while machine sat idle for a few years.

I'm guarded against a chemical process that may attack the belt.

Any suggestion welcome!

Thread: Getting a milling head ready for use
27/04/2020 21:25:42

Thanks for the swift and comprehensive advice chaps. A few follow on Qs please:

Drive belt

Here's a inter cone belt - seems in good nick. But I'm listening so shall I go for a modern Fenner link belt, as is reocmmended for Myford lathe


Yeah forgot to photo the Autolock box hat came with the machine. Nut is lurkign at the bottom thankfully.

So what's special about this design vs the generic ER32 type I see on modern Chinesium machines.


[I'm a newcomer] So I slacken the hex head at top of column - is that one long bolt that threads into the accessory (Autolock in this case)?

So I knock the bolt head with a soft hammer, but wont the autolock body still be thread onto drawbar?

shead - 1 (1).jpgshead - 2 (1).jpg

27/04/2020 15:56:29

Afternoon chaps,

I'm in the final furlong of my Senior M1 mill refurb.

I'm looking at the S head milling head and wondering if there is much to do for using it other than generously oil @ all button oilers? Photos below for thos unfamiliar with this unit.

This is my first proper milling machine, so wasn't sure if I should:

  • remove and clean off of drawbar and fixings
  • cleanout and re-tune the spring mechanism for the quill

etc before using it in earnest!

shead - 1.jpgshead - 2.jpg

Thread: [Beginner] How do I adjust the gibs on a milling machine?
13/04/2020 12:54:29
Posted by Kiwi Bloke on 12/04/2020 12:36:06:

I don't understand your remark 'The x-axis (table) has two gibs (~2:1 length ratio)'. Please could you explain? Never seen that...or am I being thick?

Yeah wasn't very clear was I! Photo below should explain all. I meant why is there not a one gib covering the entire dovetail. Perhaps it affords more control to central wear, having 2 gibs?

2gibs - 1.jpg

Thread: How to fit a new gasket to oil bath table feed?
12/04/2020 00:51:46
Posted by Kiwi Bloke on 25/03/2020 01:02:40:

I'd suggest either a neutral-cure silicone 'instant gasket' ...

be careful to get 'neutral-cure', otherwise it will be the type that releases acetic acid on curing which can cause quite spectacular corrosion (ask me how I know...)

Thanks Kiwi, just looked into your warning. As you say, 'neutral cure' releases alcohols, whereas acetoxy silicone release acetic acid upon curing. The latter is cheaper + faster curing, so makes sense that this would be the trade off. Learnt something useful there, so thanks!

Therefore I'm looking to order some neutral cure. Is this the sort of thing you mean:

Thread: [Beginner] How do I adjust the gibs on a milling machine?
11/04/2020 21:53:24

After a while spent cleaning and re-oiling my Senior M1 mill, I was hoping for guidance on how to correctly setup the 3 axes' gibs.
Here are my thoughts so far. Please bear in mind I am *not* an engineer, so please make it idiot proof.

  • Ive read posts that say one need to account for unequal wear on any s/h machine (most in the middle portion vs ends of travel). Not sure How I account for that in practical terms.
  • The x-axis (table) has two gibs (~2:1 length ratio). Seems unusual yet obviously an engineering reason.
  • Does the z-axis (column) need a different approach, due the large weight it carries, plus being a vertical surface fighting against gravity
  • To do this set up properly, will I need expensive clocks/gauges whatever, or can it all be done by feel?

Whilst typing this post, I just found this video from Keith Rucker. It seems appropriate, can anyone confirm that his method applies to all mills?

Thanks in advance chaps. A peaceful Easter to you all.

Thread: What to add to molasses solution to prevent mould growth?
08/04/2020 21:11:56

I've been successfully using diluted molasses for rust removal.

However after a good few weeks, unsurprisingly a carpet of mould floats on the surface.

Any suggestions for a chemical I can add to sterilise the solution, that won't affect the chemistry (so ruling out anything acidic)?

Thanks in advance.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 08/04/2020 21:12:18

Thread: What is it with the fit of old slotted screws?!
06/04/2020 23:41:17

Hello all. Another beginner question:

Whilst restoring a Stanley plane and similar aged tools I've noticed an annoying tendency of not quite getting a perfect fit flat head screw driver.. I must have about 10 flat heads of various ages (a few with W Germany stamping) up to modern metrics, and as I say sometimes nothing quite fits, with the blade turning a smidge in the slotted head...

was there an Imperial flathead dimension system that I've missed? Any advice is welcome. I'm a firm believer in 'right tool for the job'.

Thread: How can I remove this mould from painted surface?
06/04/2020 23:08:36

BTW for other noobs leave their expensive telescope out to get superficial mould (!), "Dettol bathroom mould cleaner" in a green spray bottle, was the cure.

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 05/04/2020 15:19:50:

Glad to hear it's OK. Any photos to share?


Yes Neil. I had noticed you're active on another form (astronomy). I was going to upload some photos of my rig on this forum... the mechanically minded gents on here would find it interesting me thinks.

With the virus induced home working, I'm getting ready to set up a new mount that has been tucked up for a few this space moonphoto

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 06/04/2020 23:11:25

05/04/2020 12:51:39
Posted by Neil Wyatt on 02/04/2020 10:04:34:

Is that a WO scope?

Tut! Tut! Slapped wrists!


Umm yes afraid so. The GTF 81 (5 element to be precise). Takes great widefield shots!


Thanks for the help all. Scrubbed on branded mould cleaner with a tooth brush, took it off within about 5 secs. Then I liberally wiped with a damp cloth afterwards to remove the residue bleach.

---> now good as new!

02/04/2020 01:05:15

I left my astrophotography gear under cover outside for the winter nonths - a mistake I know.

When uncovering I found mould had grown on the powder coated (?) telescope tube. See photos below.

Any recommendations on how to clean it?

From Internet searches it seems bleach with a toothbrush is a good way to go, but thought I should get some extra advice before driving in! Thanks in advance.


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