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Member postings for choochoo_baloo

Here is a list of all the postings choochoo_baloo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Overview of fitting variable frequency drive (VFD) to a Myford ML7
30/06/2020 00:59:08

Morning chaps. Whilst undertaking overdue spindle/bearing maintenace on my Myford ML7, I started to entertain the idea of a variable frequency (VFD) motor upgrade.

I've read a few posts in forums/youtube comments about the numerous benefits of replacing the original single phase motor (small-ish Metropolitan Vickers no less) with 3 phase VFD controlled. For starters:

  1. What exactly is on paying for in getting a plug and play Newton Tesla unit vs a Chinesium white box and standard looking mtor?
  2. Does the Newton Tesla unit simply offer pre-wired + fancy control panel, or is there more to it?

Therefore I'm hoping for a concise summary of the advantges (and there any disadvantges, cost aside?) of this popular-ish upgrade. Please advise.

Thanks in advance.

Thread: Hylomar universal blue failed to seal oil?
23/06/2020 18:13:25

To answer some follow on queries:

  • It was a brand new tube. I broke the foil seal on the end. Can it go off in an unopened tube though?
  • Perhaps the threads weren't scrupuloulsy clean. I only wiped them with blue roll. Should degreasant have been used?
  • Youtube Hylomar demo's on engine manifolds stressed intermediate dissambly is needed to allow solvent evaporation. I think it's this "skinning" (didn't know this was what it's called!) caused it to prematurely coagulate when I started threading them together
  • To reiterate; the Hylomar did *not* come out of the tube lumpy. It was toothpaste consistency.

Is PTFE tape my best choice for both a) removablity (vs pastes which can be a pain to clean off of threads) and b) performance? I imagine it's inert with oils?

23/06/2020 11:39:22

Following earlier recommendations on here, I used some Hylomar Universal Blue to seal 2 tapped holes in the body of the oil filled gearbox on my mill. However 10 days later there is a small witness of oil (granted better than with no selant).

The packaging did say it will seal threads. One is 2BA and other is sight glass ~ 0.75" x 20 tpi.

I can only think it's not designed for small fxings becuase the threads' tpi is too fine? I noticed the Hylomar did 'lump up' whilst applying it. Was impossible to get a smooth smear.

I followed the sintructions of :

clean threads, smear of hylomar,

disassmebly to dry,

final reassembly

I plan to remove remnants and start again with PTFE tape (which has never failed before). Can someone can give an explanation as to why this supposedly great sealant failed? Thanks in advance.

oilsight - 2.jpg

Thread: Interpreting these bearing blue patterns
18/06/2020 13:37:05

I'm on my third interation of top LH bearing scraping. Wil report back later - almost done.

@Hopper there's one passage in your article I don't follow:

At the end [of scraping process], scrape a little extra clearnace about 1/4" either side of the shell join lines to provide oil space on these near verticle surfaces, where shimming will not add clearance.

Is this what you mean? What about the RH bearing with its existing pockets?


Edited By choochoo_baloo on 18/06/2020 13:37:30

16/06/2020 22:51:10

Forgot to mention one thing. I drifted the top LH bearign from its cap at the start of all this whole process (I thought a previous owner had flipped it around since the oil hole is off centre. Turns out no differnce, so soft hammered it back).

Could this have inadvertently canted the bearing, thus explaining why it's giving the wrost reading?

16/06/2020 22:44:33

Evening all. Tonighted I implemented the above helpful suggestions. Specifically:

  1. journals lightly & quickly rubbed over with 600 grit 3M paper
  2. journals and bearings cleaned with degreasant, then wiped out each time with a dry microfiber cloth (no oil residue!)
  3. Stuarts ("Micrometer" from the tin) blotted on newspaper
  4. 4 screws done up tight. Spindle seized. I then backed them of by 1 thou via a feeler gauge. Spindle turned smoothly.
  5. Half spindle turn for print.

The bottom halves look near perfect. Scraping that island on RH did the trick - no streak.


So I restricted my later checks to top halves only. Here are 3 repeats. Separations set to same feeler gauge each time. Journals re-blued + bearings wiped clean each time.



You'll agree LH bearing never gave a good print. Why would just 1 of the 4 halves wear more? I realise it's diffciult to diagnose by photos, but given these prints, and crucialy the very good overall condition of the lathe, I'm reckon, a little scraping on left top half only.

Please comment chaps.

14/06/2020 12:36:54

Thanks chaps. I am learning quickly! Some follow on Qs:

  1. I agree there is probs oil residue on both shells and journals causing blobby. I tried kerosene and blue tissue. Seemed dry to the touch. Is there a better method?
  2. Is it a good idea to both journals give a quick rub with emery strip anyway, just to knock back the tiny ribbing I felt with my fingernail (I'm cautious before diving in)?
  3. Set the caps down was the [art I sturggled with most. Should I measure current shim thickness then minus say 2 thou, then nip up allen bolts to equal gap on both sides via feeler gauge? I suspect the caps were a bit sloppy. [Pete Barker says "light finger tight, but to measure gap with afeller gauge, which I found a tad ambiguous.]
14/06/2020 02:31:26

Following Pete Barker's helpful article "Scraping ML7 headstock bearings" in the April 20 MEW, I decided to check my own ML7.

The 'shake test' he described showed 3 thou vertical slop. Hence a bearing bluing session was needed to investigate further.

This is my first foray into blue/checking fit of bearings. I followed Pete's instructions as closley as possible. Below are a series of photos (this post has taken ages to prepare!) Please answer list of questions - simple lanaguage please!

1) Why is there scoring at all?

2) Was the blue applied correctly? I finger on, then off, to get a thin smear. I understand too thick can give errors.

3) [pics 4+5] I'm concrend both transfers show ribbing - his pictures show a much smoother transfer. Is this because spindle journels are themselves ribbed - I did notice it's very slight with fingernail - but didn't want to bugger about with emery paper.

4) [pic 5] What is that clear band?! It's clean acros the whole circumference. Surely it's due to the highlighted lump. That would explain blue gathered around its base.

5) Following from Q4, I assume the lump should be scraped away?

6) Overall: Looking at these transfers, is any scraping needed? Can I jump straigh to shimming?

7) I struggled to know how tight teh caps hshould be. His "light finger tight" seems to cause both lower halves to have better transfers. Suggest caps weren't seated over spindle properly. Does this show I need to re-do with caps tigher?



Edited By choochoo_baloo on 14/06/2020 02:32:44

Thread: Recommendations for quality brush for synthetic paints
03/06/2020 13:21:07

As per the title, hoping for recommendations for a line of quality paint brushes, that can withstand synthetic paint/thinners.

It seems most modern lines aimed at water based (painters & decoraters), and struggling to find those for synthetics we often use in home metalwork.

e.g Hamilton seem to have crappy varnished finish on handles that flakes after one use - into the paint - which obviously won't do!

Thread: How can I seal this oil sight glass?
31/05/2020 14:31:35
Posted by not done it yet on 31/05/2020 14:21:24:

What it needs, to stop the leak, rather depends on where the oil is leaking from.

Edited By not done it yet on 31/05/2020 14:22:07

I forgot to mention: there was a obvious oil fill along bottom glass/chrome ring interface - suggests this joint is leaking, running along oustide and then down main gearbox.

So how do I get at it without cracking the glass disc?

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 31/05/2020 14:31:54

31/05/2020 14:16:00

As I slowly win the battle to seal all leaks on my Senior M1, I've now spotted a slow leak on the bottom of the power feed gearbox sight glass.

  • I assume the knurled chrome ring holds the glass?
  • That brass tube is a press fit into the cast iron bore?
  • Why does the brass tube have the diamterriclaly opposite notches on teh inside edge?

In which case will a small wipe of Hylomar sealant around chrome ring thread, first left separated to evaporate, do the trick? Any other suggestions please?

Thanks in advance.

NB The greased Flexoid gasket I made to replace the dry cork, seems to hold well.

oilsight - 2.jpg

oilsight - 1.jpg

Thread: Can I combine primers on aluminium?
29/05/2020 16:46:03

Dave/Nick, following the ever useful input on the other post, here is my updated painting plan:

1) Good coverage Upol 8

2) Selemix "fast drying synthetic primer with high filling and good anticorrosion properties. It is intended to protect ferrous substrates." Get some building up.

3) Selemix topcoat within 24 hrs, especially given the exceptionally warm weather.

[The auto refinisher I bought it from said it's quite fussy about more than 2 coats - doesn't like sticking to itself. So opposite to cellulose practise 80+ years ago my looks of it].

...does this all sound good to you?

Thread: Synthetic and enamel paint explained
29/05/2020 00:36:52

Great input chaps. Always appreciated.

Follow on questions if I may:

  1. In simple language, what is "1K", "2K", "2 pack"
    I thought that 2 pack meant a paint + isocyanate mixed into the gun pot and then sprayed.
    (Yes I heeded the dangers of isocyanate a while back - I won't be using it any time soon!)
  2. After the preceding discussion, for (a) hard wearing (oil resistant, won't flake if eg allen key dropped) (b) brush paints (c) with a wide choice of finishes, can we agree that synthetic (like the Selemix I've already used) should be my first choice?
27/05/2020 01:52:49

I hope one or more of you chaps can explain the basic theory to home bursh and spray painting metals. This topic could well be unclear to other noobs, so have tried to lay my questions out clearly.

Is my below research correct? Please confirm each in turn

  1. "Cellulose" paints use cellulose thinners to dissolve the binder. Nitro-cellulose based. Fast drying by evaporation of the solvent (contrast to synthetic)
  2. Cellulose was the traditional 20th century paint for machine tools aka "coach painting" applied by brush. Common to apply many thin coats
  3. Cellulose has been superseded by "synthetic" (exclusing 2 pack) industrial painting
  4. "Synthetic" and "enamel" mean same thing. Chemically based on alkyds.
  5. Synthetics dry by a chemical hardening, hence take much longer to fully harden than cellulose (via evaporation). Results in synthetic being more hard wearing.
  6. Synthetics are best thinned for spraying with their own brand thinners, cos their chemistry can vary wildly between paint families.
  7. Brushes with synthetics can be cleaned with cellulose thinner (seems to be wrong...?)
  8. Synthetic under & topcoats should be from same product family to ensure proper bonding.
  9. Aluminium needs a suitbale etch primer, to key properly. It is then overcoatable with synthetics or cellulose, but don't mix them on subsequent coats.

Thanks for reading this far!

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 27/05/2020 01:53:07

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 27/05/2020 01:53:55

Thread: Can I combine primers on aluminium?
27/05/2020 00:55:16

Right now I'm confused. I had been using "cellulose" and "synthetic" interchangeably, but Dave and Nick you've made me realise I need to understand the basics.

(Upol 8 has been ordered anyway - I have to etch prime first regardless).

I'm going to start a new thread to ask about theory. Will then return to this thread once theory has been firmed up!

Thread: Unsure how to join these telescope mounting pieces
26/05/2020 14:19:04

By now most of you will recognise my username, and each time I qualify with “I’m a novice” or similar, but if steps please!

I need join this aluminium ring to this stainless steel plate to house my telescope mount.



My initial plan is:

  1. Machine shallow circular pocket on stainless plate, by holding flat on a 9” faceplate (I have an ML7). It's only 4mm thick though.
  2. Seat the ali ring
  3. Flood with Araldite.

However the Araldite would bother me. That ring is going to seat a few £1000s worth of delicate equipment, and I think as telescopes move, torques are going to pull at the base, and possibly crack the epoxy.

But I'm struggling with alternatives because of the unusual shape.

(Can stainless and aluminium be stick welded together?)

Hoping the helpful folk on ModEng forum can help me out!

Thread: How big can I go with a machine vice?
26/05/2020 00:59:29

I've been eye-ing up the Arc Versatile SG Iron Milling Vice and want to ask some questions please:

  1. If moneys no object, is bigger always better. Obviously capacity and more importantly rigidity due to the mass of cast iron?
  2. I see most vices are aligned with jaws parallel to T slots. Why is that? Surely if jaws are perpendicular, vice would sit neatly on the rectangular table?
  3. Is there a rule of thumb for vice overhang in the usual alignment?
    e.g is 1/3 overhang permissible (my table is 9 inches wide, so would it support a 12 inch long vice)?
Thread: Can I combine primers on aluminium?
25/05/2020 23:28:23
Posted by Dave Halford on 25/05/2020 21:02:07:

3 Cellulose is not synthetic or 1k as it tends to be called now. They don't like each other and will fight, synthetic looses every time.

Not sure what you're saying Dave (I am a novice!) - I shouldn't use this Selemix family on top of the hardened Upol 8?

I used the Selemix on cast iron and it's worked a dream. My main concern is how it'll take to an etch primer.

25/05/2020 12:32:05

Actually please can we please go back to basics, and confirm my plan of attack:

  1. Remove existing Normfest ferrous primer - paint stripper I guess
  2. One coat Upol 8 etch primer
  3. 1 or 2 coats of my Selemix brush cellulose high build brush primer, to fill all marks in the rough casting. Datasheet description:

    "fast drying synthetic primer with high filling and good anticorrosion properties.
    It is intended to protect ferrous substrates."

  4. Selemix colour topcoat (same family as primer). According to my helpful automotive supplier, it can take a month+ to go rock hard.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 25/05/2020 12:32:20

25/05/2020 11:42:06

Thanks chaps. First line on zoomed image "GB - aluminium primer". Oh wait a minute, are you all saying it's a metallised aluminium in the spray itself, not an etch primer for aluminium?

Oh in that case, yeah I've bought the wrong thing. Bugger. How can I remove it ready for Upol 8?

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