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Member postings for choochoo_baloo

Here is a list of all the postings choochoo_baloo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Who sells horizontal arbor milling cutters?
17/08/2016 16:07:57

Having had a brief browse of the likes of arceurotrade, chronos etc I cannot seem to find plain looking arbor/key way mounted milling cutters for a horizontal milling machine.

Please could someone suggest/link sellers of these various shape cutters.

Thread: Fitting collets to a horizontal mill?
14/08/2016 14:47:57

Thanks all for the help so far.

14/08/2016 14:47:32
Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 12/08/2016 00:18:54:

our best bet for holding milling cutters will be finger collets (such as these) held in the 2 MT socket with a draw bar. You will probably only want 1/4 and 3/8" on this little machine.

Below is an image of the Myford patent collets I referred to in my original post. As they are 2MT, to save some money for the time being, couldn't they be used on the mill using a drawbar (they're female threaded at the end) since the mandrel nose thread obviously won't be on the mill socket.

I've read elsewhere that these Myford collets have a tenancy to slip when used for milling, yet these pages - from Ian Bradley's well known "Myford Series 7 Manual" - so that these collets can be sued for milling cutters as well as round stock holding?

I agree that some a few finger collets, with their minimum overhang, is probably the best way to proceed. Most work would be done with the horizontal arbor anyway. I asked the question from the time when I need to precise drill etc, by erecting the work on a 90 deg angle plate to face the spindle.


11/08/2016 23:25:35

I have just bought a horizontal milling machine - Flexispeed Mk 2 - and while waiting for it to be delivered my thoughts have turned to how to fit collets into the main spindle, after removing the arbor, to use drills, end mills etc

The entry here states that:

"With a No. 2 Morse taper nose, the spindle ran in split, parallel, adjustable phosphor bronze bearing"

Being completely new to mills I am hoping for a concise introduction to the options available for a collet system that is compatible with such a spindle.

I have the 2MT Myford collets and locking ring set for my Myford ML7 - is there a way to utilise these in the mill or do I need a new system e.g. R8, ER 25.... (NB I don't understand what those two collet system names mean!!)

Any help gratefully received.

Thread: Making my own milling power feed?
08/08/2016 23:09:18

Just read it. Perfect thanks.

08/08/2016 19:34:30

I have just purchased a nice bench top horizontal mill.

Having read different pieces I gather that for a lot of milling, a powered cross feed is desirable for finish/consistency etc.

Before it arrives, I'm obviously unable to look around for mounting points. However I wanted to ask whether in theory the following would work:

12V car wiper motor connected directly to the non-handled end of the table lead screw, wired to a suitably 'beefed up' 12V DC model train controller.

Having tested a wiper motor from a 12V battery, I know that the feed rates would need to be considerably lower than the 12V speed of the wiper motor. Hence I cannot see why a train controller modified to take say up to say 3-4 Amps, with the knob turned down from 'full speed' wouldn't work?

Any advice gratefully received.

Thread: Proper tool grinding?
04/08/2016 16:05:15

A new fundamental workshop skill that I wish to acquire is tool grinding.

I have an off hand grinding machine (Axminster bench grinder) and have experimented with free hand sharpening, but would now like to progress to precise angular grinding work to get the very best from HSS tool steel blanks.

Having read around on Harold Hall's website, I was going to buy his book "Tool and Cutter Sharpening" to be able to make his *simple* grinding rest. Could anyone comment on whether this is a good course of action for an ambitious beginner to precision tool grinding?

I did read and admire the Hemingway Worden Mk3 grinder, but the cost and building challenge is too much for me!

Thanks for any help in advance.

Thread: Milling facility on my Myford ML7?
29/07/2016 19:39:39
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 29/07/2016 16:41:29:
Posted by choochoo_baloo on 29/07/2016 16:23:31:

For example there's a 25" by 25" footprint machine, that weighs 28 cwt (=1400 Kg).....

What on earth is it made of, tungsten? A Bridgeport is only about 1000kg. That's approaching the weight of my horizontal mill, and that's a lot bigger footprint than 25" x 25".

Lol no, it is just a beast of a machine, and realised that I got the footprint very wrong - specifically a Denbigh Model D mill (whose dimensions according to are: Model D machines weighed between 25.75 cwt and 32.75 cwt and required a floor space of 70" x 60"

So the 28 cwt/1400 Kg still stands unfortunately! So would a multi axle trailer be required - as I say I'm clueless about such matters?

29/07/2016 16:23:31

I have been browsing the secondhand small knee supported table type of milling machine, and want to ask what is a feasible method for collection and delivery to a domestic address.

For example there's a 25" by 25" footprint machine, that weighs 28 cwt (=1400 Kg).....

Is arranging a HIAB lorry the only way to go? I have no idea about this sort of thing.

28/07/2016 14:31:02

Thanks all for the input - most helpful.

I have a related question: in browsing standalone compound tables, e.g. , I don't know what die cast aluminium is.

How common is it to use instead of steel for a milling table? Wouldn't being aluminium seriously limit its performance?

18/07/2016 15:00:41

Thanks all for the replies - useful information.

17/07/2016 20:56:57

Hello all,

Before starting in earnest, I am mindful that these types of topics are likely common and has probably been answered in the past, but I am beginner and so hope others will be patient

I was fortunate to acquire a very good condition Myford ML7 with all original fittings and have bought some Myford accessories too and have made some progress in basic late work. My next goal is to build some of the Hemingway tooling kits to expand my arsenal. This calls for milling, and this is where I would appreciate some guidance/opinions. I am a firm believer in quality used tooling over new Far Eastern stuff from past experiences. However, budget and space mean that I must rule out a proper milling machine for now (e.g. Tom Senior) and thus I see my options as:

1. A vertical slide on the ML7 or 2. A milling attachment (Amolco)

Do others agree, cost aside, that the latter is the better option? My reasoning is that:

  • one is milling against a horizontal table as opposed to an upright table which surely would produce a more rigid set up?
  • simply more capacity than the vertical slide
  • the leadscrew feed would produce a power feed to the cross side during milling not possible with vertical slide
  • For indexing, cutting vertically downwards with the indexing head on the cross side seems a more rigid arrangement than the Myford dividing head hung off of a raised vertical slide as shown in Ian Bradley's "Series 7 manual"

Any suggestions or opinions are welcomed!

Thread: How do you view the Emco FB2 milling head
25/11/2014 14:33:11

Thanks initial posters - I didn't appreciate the big limitations introduced by using the lathe cross side as the milling table.

Bikepete and Ian - on reflection I think that this would be a far better avenue. This leads me to ask: what are the top 2 or 3 well regarded milling machine makes that fit the under £1000 secondhand bracket? I have obviously discounted Bridgeport because of their size and price!! Would you both advise that I focus on trying to get a decent Centec for example?

Thanks all, I do appreciate your wisdom!

24/11/2014 21:40:08

I Evening all. I am wanting to upgrade from my vertical slide on my lathe to a better milling facility.

The way I see it, for the 'under £1000' category to get a proper vertical milling facility by choice is either

(a)the ubiquitous bench top Far Eastern made milling machine sold in different liveries by Axminster Tools, Warco, Clarke etc


(b) a bolt-on vertical milling head to my Myford ML7. I've ruled out either of the Rodney Myford attachments since one needs to attach-reattach to the madder each time which would become very tiresome. Instead am considering the Myford VM-A or Emco FB2

I am a firm believer in quality over quantity. Therefore although I will probably get a large table/more travel with (a) vs (b), my current preference is definitely towards the Emco. I have heard very good things about these Austrian machines and the fact that they retain there value for many years is surly a very good sign.

I would really like to hear any opinions from other members.

Thanks in advance.

Thread: Myford ML7 mandrel speeds
24/11/2014 21:29:22

Thanks for all of the contributions. I will re-double by HSS grinding efforts/geometry, and see where that takes me! I acknowledge the opinion, expressed by many, that the standard ML7 speed range is more than good enough.

21/11/2014 15:17:20

Thanks very much chaps. It probably is the tools then. I've just found a handy "table of tool angles" in my Bradley manual. I shall consult that. Please can you both/either recommend good quality HSS tool blanks - I assume that the quality varies wildly between suppliers?

Secondly, I have a bench top grinding wheel, it has available white, grey and green wheels (interchangeable - not all fitted at once!). Are are of these used for tool grinding, or is an oilstone better. What is an oilstone? Finally with these various angled faces all being formed (rake, top etc.) how do engineers accurately measure the angle of these faces to guide the process - a simple protractor won't work! Sorry about my nobody questions!

Thanks again.

20/11/2014 22:30:10

Well I cannot get the brass (like your example picture) to have as shiny/mirror - like finish as yours. It always seems quite dull and can see fainting 'banding'. It's definitely brass - bought it from a metal suppliers.

Could you please elaborate on the common "incorrect tooling" issues that could be my problem.

20/11/2014 21:02:36
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 20/11/2014 20:27:51:

Matthew: What do you mean by lacklustre performance? Poor finish, or just takes an inordinate amount of time?


Finish definitely. I have sharp new lathe tools and am very careful to set the tools at centre height with a height gauge.

20/11/2014 20:08:57

Thanks for the info. I am keen to up the mandrel speed. I have original Myford reservoir headstock oilers fitted - do they need to be set to fully open?

Would it be feasible to replace the mandrel bearings with something capable of higher speeds, say graphite or phosphor bronze (though I am not sure of the ideal material!) ?

20/11/2014 17:55:00

Hello all,

I am a newcomer to model engineering. I have good condition ML7 with all the standard tooling and have been playing and practising lately.

One issue has arisen which I would really appreciate some help with please. I am getting lacklustre performance from turning and facing, and even drilling from the taitstock. This is most noticeable on brass. I am convinced that this is due to the rotational speed of the mandrel being far too low, even at the highest belt settings. I have the original Metropolitan Vickers 1450 rpm motor with 1-7/8" dia pulley fitted.

According to Bradley's Myford Series 7 manual, thus all gives a highest mandrel speed of 640 rpm. Now from checking a basic spindle rate reference table:

for the 1/4" dis brass that I was practising with, 3200 rpm is the approx. rpm I require.... !!

Hence this is what I'm planning to do to increase the mandrel speeds available:

swap the 1-7/8' motor pulley for a Super 7 4-3/8" and 1-3/4" dual puller. This bigger pulley brings me up c 1500 rpm. Possibly buy a new faster motor?

What have other ML7 owners done to tackle this issue?

Thanks in advance for any help.


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