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Member postings for choochoo_baloo

Here is a list of all the postings choochoo_baloo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: 1950s Myford grey paint assistance please
04/01/2017 16:04:49

Hello all,

I need to buy some Myford grey to repaint a few parts of my original 1950s ML7. Since after a quality paint I'm going to buy from Paragon paints. http://www.paragonpaints.co.uk/Myford-Lathe-Grey.html

However I'm struggling to decide whether the original factory paint was either gloss or semi gloss. I would say semigloss - but obviously would be great if others could confirm either way.

Thanks in advance.

Thread: Ferrous cleaning wheel for my bench grinder?
03/01/2017 18:02:52
Posted by Bazyle on 03/01/2017 17:45:46:

Red 'cloth' is 3M Scotch-brite flexi-wheel.

Thanks. To confirm: this is the closest thing I can find:

https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/abrasives/surface-conditioning-products/18761-152x25-4x25-4-8smeddbwl-wheel/p/MMM2451658Y

is this what you meant (can't find "flex-wheel" )

......£52 though!! Or is this to be expected for quality wheels?

 

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 03/01/2017 18:07:37

03/01/2017 17:30:56

I want a way to remove the post electrolysis 'film' after I've taken ferrous pieces out of my electrolysis bath. Obviously removing this non-chemically bonded film is the last stage in cleaning up dirty steel. NB: my electrolysis consists of: the work wired to the cathode, suspended in an aqueous soda crystal solution, powered by a 12V dc supply.

So far I have been using wire wool, which isn't ideal for various reasons. I'm hoping someone can recommend a wheel to add to my bench grinder for this purpose.

I remember seeing this video in which a red 'cloth' like wheel was used to clean up some dirty steel, much like I want to do.

Thanks in advance.

 

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 03/01/2017 17:53:04

Thread: Am I blackening steel correctly?
02/01/2017 01:03:35

Further to my previous thread regarding original Myford levelling studs and raising blocks, I de rusted rhen degreased the four levelling screws/bolts, with a view to chemicaly backening them for protection going forward. Here's a photo of before and after:

image.jpeg

Although it's acadmeic for these four screws, for future reference can others confirm whether this is a correct method:

Heat with gas torch to a faint dull red then drop into new motor oil.

I'm still unsure of exactly why blackening is recommended for steel components does it both harden (via the quenching) and behave as a good rust inhibitor - does the carbon from the oil effectively etch itself to the steel surface?

I assume for typical modelling threads this won't interfere with thread tolerances?

Thread: Original Myford raiser block queries
02/01/2017 00:31:26

Thanks to David's double nut trick, I have successfully removed all 4 studs.

To answer the £1,000,000 question: there are indeed TWO female threads, separated with a shoulder, in each block: 5/16" & 9/16" BSFs. The stud does thread into the block, but mine was definitely gunked up and took some leverage to remove.

Thanks all again for the input.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 02/01/2017 00:32:05

01/01/2017 17:23:33
Posted by David Standing 1 on 29/12/2016 20:19:27:
Posted by choochoo_baloo on 29/12/2016 19:07:28:

Does anyone know how the studs are held in the blocks? Also are the O rings just a push fit in the recesses?

Ideally want to remove the former, and definitely remove the latter, for stripping and re-painting the blocks.

Wasn't my post of 19:08 yesterday clear? sad.

When I said the studs are a loose sliding fit in the jackscrews/raiser blocks, I meant nothing holds them in, apart from the nuts above them stopping them dropping through. If yours are stuck, it is because paint/crud is stopping them from sliding through by gravity.

And yes, the o rings are just a push fit in the raiser blocks. New ones would also be an interference fit on the studs too.

Yes, sorry overlooked that when replying. Am going to have a go now!

29/12/2016 19:07:28

Does anyone know how the studs are held in the blocks? Also are the O rings just a push fit in the recesses?

Ideally want to remove the former, and definitely remove the latter, for stripping and re-painting the blocks.

28/12/2016 21:38:35

Thanks for the replies chaps. Will take my time and read them thoroughly once back in the workshop.

Yes to be explicit, I managed to (after some spanner with elbow grease) remove the four levelling bolts which had been painted in! Here's the photo of the new ones that were linked by Michael:

screen shot 2016-12-28 at 21.33.16.jpeg

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 28/12/2016 21:38:53

28/12/2016 16:04:05

Woops, attached are the block photos. Advise as per my original post would be much appreciated.

Block1.jpeg

Block3.jpeg

Block2.jpeg

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 28/12/2016 16:06:33

27/12/2016 15:04:17

Hello all,

Having taken the (original I think) Myford raiser blocks off my ML7 with Myford cabinet stand, I want to check a few things:

Compared with the main lathe, the paint work is flaking and generally poorly applied. Also the levelling nuts were painted in...will repaint anyway, but want to gauge whether experienced Myford owners agree this was a home bodge?

See first photo, the studs (with levelling nuts out), wont budge. Curious to know, how and why are these fixed to the block? Slightly concerned that there wont he enough thread protruding to fit the final nut on the bed.

Want to fit coolant pump in due course. Will these O rings be up to the job of sealing the tray to stop it leaking through? They're slightly proud of the bottom face of the block.

Can someone recommend a *quality* Myford grey paint (having found a few online) - mins a 1950s made ML7.

Thanks in advance.

 

 

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 27/12/2016 15:05:31

Thread: 3D graphing of mathematical functions
27/12/2016 14:43:46

Have regularly felt a bit like 'all take, no give' on this forum, always having my beginner-y questions helpfully answered, I'm pleased that I can offer input for once:

I'm currently studying a theoretical physics degree. If you have a reasonable grasp of elementary (secondary school level) maths then working your way through say an A Level maths revsion guide would give a budding home engineer extra insigbt for plotting, trigonometry etc.

Ignore those wallies who dismiss it as pretenious bulls*it (have not syndrome...) any advanced maths you can get to grips with is immensley satisfying. Enjoy it!

Thread: Beginners guide to lathe alignment and leveling
22/12/2016 00:53:38

Thanks all, particularly Hopper, for the guidance.

I shall re-post if I get any further problems!!

19/12/2016 00:34:09

Hello all,

First of all I am a newcomer to metalworking so please be patient with me!

After an off axis tailstock drilled and tapped hole, this made me think that the tailstock is not properly aligned with the head stock. After deliberating whether to tackle the more involved 2 collar turning method, I decided it safer to pay a bit more and buy a ready ground 2MT test bar (centre drilled both ends too). Photo of setup attached. If somone can address the following that would much appreciated:

1. Am I correct that it can be used for all 3 alignments: headstock, bed twist, tailstock alignment?

2. If so i thought that taper mating at each end would independently align them by running a toolpost clamped dial test along it. Which leads me to...

3. There is a strange periodic swinging of the dial over about a thou every ~1/16 inch or traverse. I can only think that the dial (0.0001" precsion) is actually picking up the helical cutting marks?

4. Videos I've watched always show the bar between centres. But why does it have a taper?

5. Please talk me through all the necessary steps to align the tailstock at the very least!

Thanks in advance.image.jpeg

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 19/12/2016 00:36:08

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 19/12/2016 00:36:50

Thread: How should one protect ferrous tools?
16/09/2016 18:28:25

I ordered a basic hygrometer as advised. I plan to record % relative humidity values over a few days to see what I'm dealing with. Does anyone know what appoximate values are desirable in a workshop?

14/09/2016 23:56:44

Thanks all for yet more useful input.

Posted by frank brown on 14/09/2016 15:47:40:

I would say that its the floor is trying to keep the garage at a low temperature. ... Unless you can actually see wet on the inside of the walls, I would not bother with damp proofing. Air is very slippery and will just leak through bricks and paint is only about 60% air tight.

Had a thought:- how about roof insulation, so during the day solar energy is trapped within the building and leaks out so slowly, at night the building does not cool down to dew point? That has been one common factor with my outhouses.

That's particularly helpful Frank. I'll be provide further details of the workshop as is so hopefully specific advise may come about:

A double external garage with gabled roof of trussed rafters support. Floor is one giant concrete pouring. Not sure if membrane below - will do the plastic sheet test! Two up and over tin doors.

Workshop is one quarter of floorspace partitioned by insulated wall, and the roof joists have insulation between them and are boarded below for the workshop ceiling. Hence the worksop has: two insulated plywood lined wall, one concrete/brick single skin wall, and the tin door.

Yes roof insulation would be ideal BUT sadly I cannot insulate the roof below the felt because of another hobby of mine - an observatory in the roof space above workshop. Poking telescopes and cameras through insulated roofs, that as you say slowly re radiate, are a big no no RE optical quality. Thus why I'm careful to provide a good thermal barrier at the joist level, not at the rafter level.

13/09/2016 20:37:39

As ever, great advise on this forum. Thanks all.

A couple have asked my age - early 20s. I have wondered whether I am more predisposed to 'rusty fingers' than others; I have always seemed to quickly rust ferrous metals and tarnish brass etc as long as I can remember. So biology must be against me!

I'm in south Somerset, so fairly mild weather most of the year. Just looked and the garage does have a membrane in the brick course, and I imagine that there's one under the concrete floor?

So to summarise I plan to do the following:

  • Spray 'working surfaces' including tooling with ACF 50. Do I need the aerosol or is it more economical to buy the bottle and use a garden sprayer?
  • Install a dehumidifier - can anyone recommend a model for a workshop about 12.5 m^3?

Just found a tin of Thompson's sealant on the garage will upload a photo of the tin - hopefully someone can advise whether it's suitable for painting on the interior of the wall.

13/09/2016 13:58:22

As per the title, I have been trying to develop a method to long term protect ferrous hand tools and machine tool accessories e.g. lathe chucks, faceplates etc.

My worksop is a recently partitioned (with insulation and an electric heater) section of a single skin external garage. After asking Axminster Tools what's the best solution for coating ferrous surfaces, I bought a tin of their machine wax (http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-machine-wax-ax957553)

I was hoping that, after always having problems with rust prior to doing all of the above, that it will finally be kept at bay. However after picking up a waxed 3 jaw chuck there are already some surface bright rust patches 48 hours later!! Should I always wear gloves?

It baffles me since workshop videos etc on youtube always seem to have pretty shiny ferrous surfaces, and the operator is using bear hands, and I can't imagine they are constantly waxing and treating every ferrous surface.

However, other bits that I've waxed are still rust free, and therefore I can only assume that I wasn't generous enough with waxing the chuck?

But in any case please can others divulge their tactics for keeping rust at bay!

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 13/09/2016 14:11:39

Thread: Leveling and fixing a Myford lathe
23/08/2016 14:18:27

Dear all,

After flicking through an original Myford ML7 manual to accompany my secondhand ML7, I am unsure what I need to do to properly attach the lathe bed to the raising blocks.

I have read and understand the procedure(s) for ensuring dead level lathe bed from the meal, but I need to have lock down nuts available to complete the procedure. As seen in the attached images, both blocks have nuts (which are truly stuck in place!) between the bed and raiser block surfaces. However no additional nuts are available to lock it down, and I fear there's insufficient thread protruding to attach nuts in a couple of places (second image).

Please can someone explain how to arrange the bits (including buying additional nuts if required) to (a) properly complete the levelling procedure and (b) then permanently fix the bed in place.

ML7 bed1

ML7 bed2

Thread: Who sells horizontal arbor milling cutters?
19/08/2016 23:52:24

Managed to remove the drawbar and arbor after following the advice above, so thanks!

I assumed that all horizontal mills had a keyway on the arbor. Mine doesn't seem to which concerns me. Am I right in saying that a keyway is critical for any horizontal milling, since spacers do just as the name implies and don't act as clamps as is currently the case?

18/08/2016 23:21:21

Thanks all for the input. I alway appreciate hearing from those more experienced than myself.

Now that I've had a chance to unpack my Flexispeed Mk2 mill from the pallet, I went to detach the arbor etc to see how the arbor and 2MT socket all go together (I am a newcomer to metalwork).....but......

I cannot fathom how to remove the arbor. I've tried to undo what I assume is a drawbar bolt at the end of the shaft, (far right of third image), but when applying a spanner the spindle just keeps turning round. I've loosened off a few grub screws that may be locking something too.

Thus by uploading some photos I was hoping that someone can point out what I need to do to take the arbor out, and explain what some of the various components do!

NB the second photo shows the arbor after removing: locking nut, cutter and spacers (seen originally fitted in the first image).

mill3

mill1

mill2

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 18/08/2016 23:30:10

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