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Member postings for choochoo_baloo

Here is a list of all the postings choochoo_baloo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Record no 1 vice jaws seized - removal?
27/03/2020 00:36:41

Thanks chaps. All useful as usual.

Another question: what spec is the helical spring (circled)? The previous owner had abused the cross pin that holds the spring, and in the process mangled up the spring rendering it useless. It needs replacement.


Thread: Websites for the Bored
25/03/2020 15:54:57

"3blue1brown" youtube channel.

Excellent explanations of various maths topics, at various levels. For example: the recent COVID-19 statistics.

Thread: How to fit a new gasket to oil bath table feed?
25/03/2020 00:38:22

[Complete beginner to this task, so please bear with!] Surprised when I disassembled the saddle for my Senior M1 to find no gasket on the end plate, which encloses the oils trough to immerse the worm/wheel table power feed. See photo of plate removed.

gasket - 1.jpg

Anyway, upon refilling with new oil, there was clearly a slow leak. I want to fit a gasket.

I have a 0.8mm thick "Flexoid" gasket sheet.

  • Is there anything else to it other than accurately cutting out the sheet to match the mating surfaces?
  • Should I score out the paper using the peen head of a hammerr against the plate as a template?
  • Should I prime the gasket, I heard vaseline?

Any help is appreciated.

Thread: Record no 1 vice jaws seized - removal?
23/03/2020 00:28:36

I acquired an original Record No 1 vice. Both knurled vice jaws fixing screws are seized in place.

I sat thing was sat in moalasses for a month, then Wd40 for a week, not avail, the screwdriver cams out and is gradually chewing up the head.

Therefore grateful for advice on how to remove. Thanks.

Thread: Where are tool fairs/swap-meets advertised?
15/01/2020 00:07:32

Ok thanks chaps. I'm in Somerset, so the only one of those mentioned events that is close-ish is the Great Dorset!

I will now have a look out for "auto jumbles" and the like.

13/01/2020 15:57:07

Hello all,

I want to pop along to a few used tool fairs this year - I hear they're a great place to browse and pick up the odd gem. I'm generally pretty guarded against ebay.

The results on google searches seem to be all antique fairs.

Any suggestions are welcome.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 13/01/2020 15:57:18

Thread: Tom Senior power feed fixings help
12/01/2020 00:14:56

Many thanks Kiwi. I've replied inline below:

Posted by Kiwi Bloke on 11/01/2020 23:10:50:

The 'torpedo pin' is the table knock-off plunger which, when pushed down by the (adjustable) knock-off dog on the front face of the table, throws the table auto-feed out of engagement, by turning the black-knobbed lever.

ok that makes sense. So that's why one of the 2 sliding (approx 1" cubes) knock off dogs on the front face of the table, has a convex bottom face - to ride over and depress this plunger?

Sorry, can't remember what the screw does.

I reckon I've now got it. My "Nature" standard sketch below (!) explains it. That hex bolt must bear against its flat to ensure the lever isn't push over too far. This therefore limits the L/R sliding of the dog clutch. But why does this need limiting? Second below is a more helpful photo of the complete saddle innards...what do you think?


clutch_pins - 1.jpg


...I think that your machine is actually a 'Junior' - just a little smaller than the M1.

Defo an M1; stamped M1 on the CI column and on the brass serial plate on the saddle. An M1 restoration article I've read does stress there were minor variations in fittings within the same models. So what you described isn't unusual Senior practise.


Edited By choochoo_baloo on 12/01/2020 00:15:39

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 12/01/2020 00:16:11

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 12/01/2020 00:31:05

11/01/2020 14:11:04

I am reassembling my Senior M1 saddle after a thorough clean and re-oiling. I must have been on 'autopilot' when disassembling, since I just realised I don't know what the circled torpedo pin in photo 1 and adjacent hex bolt do.

Photo 1 is the lever to engage/disengage the dog clutch from the power feed gearbox to a key way on the table x axis leadscrew.

Close up of them in photo 2. (The grub +spring + ball sit in the front hole and hold the lever in 2 indent poisitions for engage/disenage).

Photo 3 just shows one of the 2 flats on the lever shaft, that this torpedo pin must bear onto.

Thanks in advance.


Thread: What's the thread on Myford anti-vibration feet?
20/12/2019 16:08:25

Believe it or not, I've struggled to find the correct nuts to fit the stud on the yellow anti vibration feet from Myford for the ML7. Please can anyone tell me what the thread is?

They are *not* 3/8 BSW as I was led to believe... Just tried phoning Myford, but no answer. Presumably they've now closed for Xmas.

Thanks in advance.

Thread: Molasses has etched cast iron?!
28/11/2019 23:54:59

Ok thanks chaps. You've confirmed my initial thought - abrasive would be a mistake. I shall let sleeping dogs lie.

On the up side, I assume the minuscule amount of etching that's occurred will hold slideway oil better than being really shiny?

28/11/2019 15:33:29

Forgot to ask. For rectifying - ideally restoring to the original finish - what method & abrasives should I use (I'm a novice)?

I was told: I suspect you will have to resort to using 1200 grit carborundum paper with WD40 to remove the etched layer. Wrap it around a parallel.

28/11/2019 15:31:27

Many thanks for your reply Kiwi.

Posted by Kiwi Bloke on 28/11/2019 05:12:44:

However, this doesn't explain the poor finish achieved by immersing high-carbon steel.

Sorry I wasn't clear, photo below is the "front bearing plate" I referred to. I assume this is made of steel? This *was* immersed in a bucket of molasses ie no oxygen contact. As you mentioned with your successes, this piece clearly worked very well in under 24 hrs of immersion. Or were your referring to your gravers?

Anyway, the bottom left shows the dulling/patchiness I described in my original post. Yes of course it's not a big deal, I'm just a perfectionist who wants to learn a much as I can along the way.

Aye, chelation is like magic pixie chemistry if you ask me...


For the benefit of others, I asked an academic engineer friend. Although he's avoided the molasses method at home himself, he responded with:

Grey cast iron is far more easy to etch than steel - a fact exploited during the production of metallography specimens in a foundry. I assume this is due to the rough/open surface compared with steel - all those open grain boundaries to attack. Molasses (I think) contains phosphoric acid which makes me think your casting has been etched. Perhaps more is going on with the high level of silicon and phosphorous likely to be in the cast iron??



Edited By choochoo_baloo on 28/11/2019 15:42:11

28/11/2019 02:06:18

The below is bugging me and I really want to understand why this (albeit not a big deal) happened.

I wanted to clean up my Tom Senior main vertical slideway. They famously hand a hand frosted finish. I wanted to maintain it as best I could.

A very experienced engineer relative said that a molasses solution soaked roll, draped over the area, will eventually let me wipe off the inert iron oxide.

I uncovered it 24 hours later for a look, and was disappointed to see that the whole surface was dulled.
After trying water, kerosene, WD40 to no avail, I deduced the iron’s been etched slightly, thus impeding the light reflection.
Despite a good polish, with Autosol, it’s not much better.
...I’m annoyed the surface has lost its shine.

Interesting the spots I missed with the tissue, seem unaffected. This supports my etching theory.
Please see the before and after photos.

I also submerged the front bearing plate in molasses for the same amount of time.By contrast the steel bearing plate came out very well....steel isn’t susceptible to molasses etching?

furthermore, I just read on a forum that molasses can attack grey cast iron?
Since I understand molasses works by chelation (A level chemistry to the rescue!!),’this doesn’t explain the acidic behaviour and I originally avoided acids for this reason.

many thanks for reading this far 😉



Thread: How do I undo these leadscrew nuts?
15/11/2019 14:05:23

Thanks both. Will use allen keys or round bar Peter.

Posted by Brian Wood on 15/11/2019 11:35:41:

Test the pre-load on the bearing, one of which is a thrust bearing, before you release them so that you have a feel for how they were set beforehand.

Brian; to check I understand what you mean.

I plan to mark their current alignment to each other, and count how many rev's to undo the outer nut. Is this all?

Thread: What is this Tom Senior colour?
15/11/2019 11:27:57

Me again wink

Does any know with reasonable confidence what the colour is of this rough casting paint? It inevitably became flaky during electrolysis, so I want to repaint these bits anyway.

I'm thinking: BS2660-4046 Off-white

Thank you.


Thread: How do I undo these leadscrew nuts?
15/11/2019 11:22:54

Continuing my Tom Senior disassembly, I heeded the previous advice to leave the taper pin-ed end, and remove from the handle side of the X axis table screw.

Now I'm flummoxed by these double nut things. No grub screws or pins to remove. That's a ball bearing race immediately to the left.

  • Do they need a pin spanner type thing?
  • Are they double nuts?

Thanks in advance.


Thread: Colchester Master Mk1 lifting + moving advice
15/11/2019 11:15:36
Posted by Hopper on 15/11/2019 09:18:29:

How did you go with the move?

Or are you still in the due diligence stage?

Still 'due diligence' Hopper. I agree professionals in theory, but if they're '"too busy" for the small domestic jobs, then I may not have that choice.

By pure chance when a tree surgeon was round last week, it turned out his helper had worked for a local machinery hauliers for 20 years (that I didn't know existed). He talked thorugh the move in theory.

Contacted the hauliers for a quote, giving his name, and they buggered me about a few times by not returning calls when they say they will. Bad manners hack me off. So they can whistle!

Thread: I cannot disassemble the X axis lead screw
13/11/2019 18:19:28

Thanks chaps.

I was thinking ‘this probs is meant to stay together’, hence I stopped and sought advice.

Please confirm - will these few drift blows, with a pein hammer, have likely distorted/gouged the internals? Being a novice, I’ve no idea how delicate this sort of assembly is.


Below is the top down view of saddle for John Haine. Yes; the power feed engages that dog clutch bronze thingy.


13/11/2019 17:03:54

A Newby question please:

I’m stripping and cleaning up my Senior M1 mill. But I cannot seem to disassemble the pictured lead screw bush/bracket assembly.

I identified what I think is a taper pin through the steel collar - see close up.

obviously being very careful to hit the narrower end, nothing is budging and even managed to bend the brass drift...!!

To save any possible damage I’ve stopped to ask one of your chaps fir suggestions.

Thanks in advance.



Edited By choochoo_baloo on 13/11/2019 17:05:17

Thread: Colchester Master Mk1 lifting + moving advice
01/11/2019 21:35:42


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