By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for choochoo_baloo

Here is a list of all the postings choochoo_baloo has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: How to de-oil an oilstone?
20/06/2019 15:44:34

I inherited a well used two sided oilstone 6 x 2 x 1 inches.

It is noticeably cratered and has pretty grey sludgy coating all over. In other words it's well used! [I'm sorted with the flattening.]

However I'd like suggestions on how to de-oil it/flush out the old stuff in the pores. Then I can re oil with fresh Nuto H32.

Thanks in advance.

Thread: Should I have 3 phase supplied to my house?
11/06/2019 16:23:35
Posted by not done it yet on 09/06/2019 19:56:07:

Well I never! Surprise, surprise! Didn’t really need a thread and people’s time and input to sort out a simple comparison.

I would normally ignore this sort of remark, but you've hacked me off by doing it twice in this thread.

What we don't need is your flippant remarks. Aren't we lucky that there are such clever people like you about who know all of these things.

As a newcomer, I remain grateful for the advice I continue to get from 90% of contributors on this site.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 11/06/2019 16:23:54

09/06/2019 18:53:31

As mentioned above, I've now had a 'ball park' figure from my Network Operator:

  • 30kVA capacity for my large 4 bed detached house + workshop + lots of headroom @ 3 phase.
  • My local sub station has plenty of spare capacity
  • Mains cable runs right outside my house under the footpath. In other words they stressed my house is in the ideal configuration for this work/minimal cost (no cutting up highways etc).

£3100 + VAT

so that's that! Included the above details in case it may help someone else gauge the likely cost for their own project one day.

I will go the converter route from Transwave after all. idea

Thread: Recommendation for a 3 phase electricity book?
07/06/2019 00:21:55

Can anyone recommend a book giving an overview of "3 phase" for a non electrical engineer?

This book seems to fit the bill...but at £100 I think I'll pass for now!

(NB I am a physicist by trade, so the fundamental science and maths should be fine. It's more the application that I want to better understand.)

Thanks in advance.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 07/06/2019 00:22:08

Thread: Use a router for a mortice lock
31/05/2019 13:34:44

[This is mainly aimed at the chippies out there!]

After researching fitting a 5 lever mortice lock, I've decided to hire a router and use a template accessory. I understand it's crucial to the function of the lock to get it right first time. I'll likely fit locks to other doors in the futre, so an investment too.

I can only seem to find mortice lock jigs costing ~£100 - can anyone recommend something cheaper?

Thread: Should I have 3 phase supplied to my house?
30/05/2019 00:38:58

Hello chaps.

My home workshop build is nearing completion, and thoughts have turned to the supply for my 3 off, 3 phase machine tools.

I've contacted Transwave about their converters. Seems a good option.

Someone suggested getting a 3 phase supply quote from my power distributor (Scottish Power). He reckoned it would be comparable to the total cost of phase converter + electrician wiring to the out building.

Any advice appreciated.

Edit: Just discovered that the jargon for the company operating the power network after the National Grid is "Network Operator" e.g. Scottish and Southern

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 30/05/2019 01:03:01

Thread: Help identifying Swiss files
23/04/2019 01:47:31

Hello all. Please can someone clarify what these Swiss/needle file cross sections show,

1. I assume each face with single hashinh = single cut.

2. A blank face (no hashing) = safe edge?

3. Therefore are Swiss files e.g. Vallorbe always single cut?


Thread: How to level BOTH the Myford cabinet and the lathe bed?
21/04/2019 00:17:34

That's all helpful chaps as usual.

So to confirm:

I should set up the cabinet (with the 4 anti vibration feet) roughly level - a slight headstock incline should I wish - but ensure load is spread across all 4 feet.

Do the 2 dia turning test as normal, with no reference to the *cabinet*. Therfore I don't need an engineers' level at any stage?

20/04/2019 01:32:45

I'm hoping to move my Myford ML7 on Myford cabinet into its new home soon. Having used a piece of thick carpet whilst 'playing about' in its old home, I want to set in up on anti-vibration feet,


a) make future movement easier to raise offo of floor

b) sit better - high speed is a tad shaky

...but after watching this detailed video on lathe setup:

I don't know why go through the fuss of using an engineers' level on the machined ways to get the cabinet wrt floor level, when I then readjust the bed following the critical 2 dia turning test (for bed twist)?

I understand the importance of the 2 dia turning test. But this would surely nullify using the bed previously to level the cabinet?

Please clarify for a newcomer!

Thread: Refitting belts on Myford Tri Leva lathe
19/04/2019 23:34:24

I've replied inline to your reply Andy. I am also struggling to fine tune my Tri-Leva.

Posted by A Smith on 18/04/2019 12:24:06:

It is important to tension the motor drive belt first because that will affect the distance between the three drive pulleys and the spindle. I now use one of the segmented, cogged belts & it has been completely satisfactory. To get the right grip, this belt should be tensioned so that there is no slack but it's not tight enough to pull the driving (top) spindle down appreciably.

CCB: Just to be clear, are you referring to the motor to counter shaft (~6 in diameter pulley) belt? A "Fenner" link belt? I have the original V belt and it's looking a bit tired...

Having done this, with the other three belts slackened right off, adjust the tension of each belt until it just grips.

CCB: Sorry I don't follow - the 2 cone pulleys (countershaft & spindle) are fixed relative to each other - hwo can one adjust them? Or are you referring to to the slotted thumbscrews for this "adjust the tension of each belt"?

This may require a lot less tension than you expect. The belt tension should be just about discernible as the speed selection lever is pulled down. If it slips when you're taking a normal cut, just tweak it up slightly.

With the motor running and with all three levers right up, the main spindle (mandrel to some) should not revolve at all.

Hope this helps.


Thread: Moving from Warco WM180 to a Myford ML7B ?
09/04/2019 23:39:41
Posted by Kevin Murrell on 08/04/2019 16:56:20:

Dear all

I have the chance of changing to a (used obviously) ML7B from my first lathe which is a Warco WM180. Would I be excited or disappointed? The Myford is big enough for what I typically do, but I like insert tooling - would the Myford be fast enough?

Thanks all


Kevin, I'm a relative newcomer, but here's my input:

Comparing a club workshop "Chinesium" lathe (which I've used a bit) vs my similar sized home Myford ML7 good/very good condition, the Myford is just better built throughout. Full stop.

As I've learnt from the chaps on here, plain metal mass counts for a lot in terms of resistance to flexure, rigidity etc. The Chinesium lathe I mentioned was just a tad flimsy and 'fold up sheet' like. The Axminster ones I fiddled with in their showroom were mediocre in my opinion too.

Yeah the spindle bore aint great and the white metal bearings are inferior to modern designs, but there's a reason they're the 'old guard' for model engineers (yes the prices of some Super 7 are stupid)!

Thread: Refitting belts on Myford Tri Leva lathe
09/04/2019 23:26:17
Posted by John Greenwood 2 on 09/04/2019 18:00:08:

Also the head stock is very stiff. The white metal bearings were a bit scored

Hello John. V8Eng and I were discussing Tri Leva maintenance the other week.

  1. I was adjusting those thumb screws over the weekend. Those thumbscrews have a slot milled in the end that cup the pulley blades (see V8Eng pictures above).
  2. You thus need to push the pulley blade from the front of the unit, since a spring holds the blade within the slot when that lever is in the up position.
  3. Whilst the blade is held back (under spring tension), simply twist the knurled head to get the require pulley-on-belt tension once that lever is depressed.

Hence do NOT attempt adjusting the thumbscrews till the blade is away from the slot - you will simply bugger up the thread as V8 has alluded to!

Ask again here if I can help any more - the chaps on this forum have been very helpful to me over the years nerd

Thread: 2 pack, enamel...paint advice please!
03/04/2019 23:39:07
Posted by Peter F on 03/04/2019 20:58:33:


If you want some more advice on which gun to buy, let me know.

Will send a PM Peter.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 03/04/2019 23:39:22

03/04/2019 23:38:35
Posted by Phil Whitley on 03/04/2019 20:14:36:

then wet flat, or dry denib if you cant be bothered, and gloss it!

Please explain what this means - I am very new to this!

03/04/2019 17:34:51

Dear all,

I'm hoping to strip and repaint some generally knackered machinery panels from a machine tool. I just telephoned a reputable local automative paint shop, and they advised the following. I am hoping for concise advice on how to proceed:

  • 2 Pack will give a much more durable finish than a traditional enamel.
  • 2 Pack requires an air fed respirator - isocyanate hardener
  • The gun (Devilbiss type brand ~£300) + respirator will requires a 12-16 CFM delivered compressor
  • For quality brands, the above + sundries would come to ~£1000

First off, I cannot afford £1000 worth. Furthermore I struggle to accept most home workshop-ers have spent this much for odd job repainting!

I am all for doing things properly (and certainly with the isocyanate - being safe), but my queries to you chaps are:

1. Is 2 pack overkill, given that a lot of the recommended paint suppliers on this forum still produce enamels? Will a filter regulator suffice for enamels>

2. What results can I expect to achieve with my current 5.6 CFM compressor + water trap/regulator + a starter Devilbiss gun (~£70)?

Thanks in advance.

Thread: Rectangular magnetic chucks for milling?
31/03/2019 14:49:18

Hello all. I was browsing the Eclipse Magnetics (current generation of Sheffield made stuff) catalogue, and am curious as to whether a rectangular magnetic chuck would make a a traditional vice redundant for milling ferrous work?

From my initial understanding:

  1. Large clamping contact area (via the magnetic field lines) in contrast to the two jaws
  2. Due to one, less vibration/resonance through the work as cuttetr works?
  3. Easier to hold weird shapes by using those flux extender blocks vs say normal screw clamps that may obstruct the cutters route

On a downside:

Wont all work have residual magnetism?

If so, how is this overcome aside from an expensive demagnetiser?

Thread: Tri leva grease and bar removal help
30/03/2019 23:33:51
Posted by Cornish Jack on 28/03/2019 11:08:23:

Choochoo - have you got the Trileva manual diagram? If not I can copy and post here, if it helps?



Yes I have thanks Bill. According to that I have removed the only retaining screws. V8Eng has vindicated the removal - will have to knock it out after all.

Thanks for the offer though.

Thread: Fixed vertical metal bandsaw?
29/03/2019 13:42:03

Hello all,

As a newbie, I was pondering how to roughly cut out shapes from metal plate. I then watched a video that uses a *metal cutting* bandsaw, with a large cast iron table e.g. "Startrite".

However I am struggling to find makes + models suited for metal cutting. Am I barking up the wrong tree - are only pivot bandsaws suitable for this application? [I'm not too keen on the generic 6 x 4 bandsaws form the usual suppliers.]

Any advice gratefully received.

Thread: Tri leva grease and bar removal help
27/03/2019 21:51:57

Evening chaps. I need some Myford Tri-Leva assembly help.

1)Can someone recommend a replacement grease that was living on the recess around a roller bearing for the belt tensioner wheels (see photo 1). I have: {lithium, copper, machine tool, silicon, water proof} grease to hand.

I read somewhere that old (this must be a good 40 years old) grease should be replaced. Am I right?


2) How do I remove the round bar that pivots the belt tensioner arms. I removeda a grub screw fro the casting. It wont easily give. The dings on the big end (photo 3) suggest it's hammered in? I wanted to check so as not to crack the aluminum casting!



Thanks in advance.

Edited By choochoo_baloo on 27/03/2019 21:52:48

Thread: Concrete workshop floor paint
21/03/2019 21:53:51

I am almost at the same stage as you Adrain. I'm going to use an industrial grade epoxy. It looks the bees knees, and would trust it more than a single pack paint type thing. I will upload the product name here when I'm next out.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Eccentric Engineering
Eccentric July 5 2018
TRANSWAVE Converters
Allendale Electronics
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest