Here is a list of all the postings Bezzer has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: FORUM DOWNTIME AND RESULTING ISSUES REPORTING|
Thing is I've got an older Android version and kept getting the unsafe screen and no padlock, seemed to have cured itself on occassions but then kept going back to unsafe. Been O.K. for the past couple of days with padlock now gone back to unsafe yet again so can't really be the Android problem if it keeps changing.
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Expires on: 6 Sep 2022
Current date: 23 Jun 2022
Edited By Bezzer on 23/06/2022 18:26:42
At last !!!! Finally able to visit the site and have the safe padlock showing again. Weirdly when it was showing unsafe and I checked the advance settings it did show the certificate was valid until September but I still had to override the unsafe screen to get to the site.
Samsung Tab3 . SM-T310
Chrome Version 81.0.4044.138
Device last updated itself 7.6.22
I've cleared history, cookies, caches etc etc a few times with no change, I did see the padlock a couple of days ago for one session as previously posted but not since., no idea why.
I've gone back to no certificate, no padlock again Done nothing since yesterday when it decided to work OK, Have noticed, like Joseph, it keeps me permanently logged in from day to day.
Edit. I submitted this post and it chucked me onto the unsafe site page again, had to confirm the submission and it then posted as above.
Edited By Bezzer on 10/06/2022 16:17:48
.....and now for some reason everything is OK. Still on Chrome, tablet not been turned off or reset and when I've come back to the site no warnings and secure padlock is now showing .
I did clear all history, site data, caches etc before I posted, just done it again and still the same. I'm using Chrome and can't access another browser until later, I'll try it then.
I posted on this 5 minutes ago but it seems to have disappeared??
It was to say I'm still getting "invalid certificate" "unsafe site" etc so no padlock. I have cleared history, cache etc to make sure it's not my end, still the same.
|Thread: The Correct Way To Sharpen Drill Bits Using A Picador Drill Sharpening Jig With Custom Base|
I can't make my mind up if you are a troll or actually that far up yourself. Either way it doesn't matter as as the ignore button is about to be pressed , joining a few others I suspect.
Perhaps you should do more reading and gain a bit of knowledge then. What is this "Theory" you are on about, all guidelines from manufacturers and training say to use equal flanges to give an equal clamping force, a wheel should be perfectly balanced for it's high r.p.m. or you are really asking for trouble. Bonding a piece of ply or alloy to one side is probably the worst bit of workshop practice I've heard.
|Thread: Milk container top colours|
Life's too short to care, what about sterilised as well ? It's still about
Edited By Bezzer on 26/05/2022 16:11:06
Edited By Bezzer on 26/05/2022 16:12:09
|Thread: threading delrin - alternative method|
At 1/2"-20 and your interests I take it that it's to cap off a threaded muzzle or part of an actual moderator? If for a mod end connection I experimented with it some years ago and found it was a bit too soft thread wise for keeping everything square. Didn't take much to move it a touch altering the POI all the time or worse, clipping Defeated the object of having the minimum exit hole, for maximum efficiency, didn't have to knock it, just carrying about in a gunbag was enough, a decent AIM one as well.
|Thread: Suggest a repair method for broken aluminium alloy casting|
For similar jobs I use Benzomatic Aluminium solder rods. Unlike other makes you don't need to keep scratching the surfaces with a stainless brush, the flux stuff it's coated with lets it work without. Will be strong enough for your job, I've butt welded alloy tube to alloy plate with it and had to really whack it with a club hammer a couple of times to break it.
This is a thermostat housing off an old bike I repaired with it, just make sure the surfaces are really cleaned up first, I used a burr on it to get to bright metal on this.
|Thread: Galvanic Corrosion|
For really stuck fixings on motorcyckes I always ended up with having to drill them out, best with left hand drill bits as previousky mentioned. I know there are more modern anti seize compounds and the galvanic table proximity but I have always used copper grease with no problem disassembling at all even years down the line as have the countless other bike tinkerers.
Take it that it's one of the generic 6x4 bandsaws like my Chester one that also uses a 1300mm blade?
Somethings wrong if it keeps chucking the blade off, mine never has no matter what it is cutting, is it cutting square? I use the same 14/10 tpi bi metal blade to cut whatever I need to from stainless to a bit of timber, granted it can be a bit slow on big cuts but it's a "budget" saw and a touch of weight on the end can help. You didn't need to seriously modify the vice just drill and tap the rear of the moveable jaw M10 or similar then use a bolt to keep the jaw square when a short piece is at the front.
|Thread: cutting pyrex tube to length|
I've cut DRO glass scales down and bottles with no problems at all using a cheap wet wheel diamond tile cutter, if you've got one or know someone who has.
|Thread: UK DRIVING LICENCE [ 2022 issue ]|
Snap!! mine is from 1981 as well from when I last moved house. Unfortunately it expires this time next year when I'm 70 and I'll have to have a photo one.
|Thread: Chester machine tool machines|
I had a DB10G lathe for fifteen years that I sold last year, never had any problem with it at all over that time, still on the original belts as well. Don't rate the customer service much though, don't know if it's improved recently.
Do you know why you want the 3 in 1 as they are a bit of a compromise? If you've got the space a lathe and a seperate mill is a much more flexible option.
|Thread: Polishing Brass|
Quickest and best method is with a polishing mop, cheap enough to get a mop and mandrel to fit it on a bench grinder. Light blue or white polishing compound (lighter the compound colour the finer "grit" it is) does it to a mirror finish quickly.
|Thread: Dulling the shine on a stainless steel ball|
Slow speed is no good for a decent uniform finish with a scotchbrite pad, I've always brush finished stainless at high speed as earlier mehtioned.
|Thread: how to make it stay in ?|
That's what I used to do, made loads of alloy, brass and stainless frame plugs for bikes and fixed them in with O rings.
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